Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

May Paris and Normandy River Cruise

Search

May Paris and Normandy River Cruise

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 10th, 2017, 07:10 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
May Paris and Normandy River Cruise

Warning: this is going to be a long TR with shopping and food detail. If that's not your thing, feel free to move on now!

2+ Days in Paris, this my 10th visit, were to recover from jet lag before embarking on a river cruise, indulge in more than a little shopping/dining and stroll the 6th, the quarter I love to spend time in. Yes, it's touristy but I confess to being just that.

AA flight left Chicago ORD at 6:30 pm on 5/16 arriving a half hour early on the 17th to CDG. Comfort Class upgrade at $120 each way is a minute step above cattle class. I managed to get a bulkhead seat in the two seated row for maximum comfort but I gotta tell ya, it ain't so great. Due to bad knees and fasciitis in my left foot which came on so conveniently a week before departure, I was on the wheelchair list for help into the terminal and a dog's dinner it was. There were eight of us and accompanying family - about fifteen total. After waiting 45 minutes on the plane we were loaded into an elevated truck and transported to the terminal where we then waited for wheelchairs to be allotted. I was last and waited so long I finally gave up and limped into the customs/luggage hall where I located my bag and made it slowly into the reception area where my driver was waiting.

I stayed at Hotel Le Regent on Rue Dauphine, right in the heart of the 6th, near Rue de Buci, Rue Seine and Blvd. St. Germain. It was perfect and exactly where I wanted to be. My small but adequate room on the sixth floor with balcony had wonderful French charm/decor and a nice bathroom, although that high tub ledge nearly did me in each time.

The hotel ordered the car, round trip from CDG to St. Germain, then on 5/20 from St. Germain to Conflans where I boarded the river cruise ship. The rate was euro 130, I felt this was a very fair price for the comfort and convenience that I require as a senior solo female traveler.

I settled in at Le Regent, rested a bit and set out for Les Deaux Magots for a late lunch of an aperol spritzer and a Croque Madam, along with good people watching at an outdoor table facing the church of St. Germain de Pres. Ah yes, I could feel myself snuggling into my Paris persona.

On my list of shopping forays was Gab & Jo on Rue Jacob, just up the street from Laduree, so,I toddled up Rue Bonaparte only to find the shop closed. It would take three tries to finally see the door open and lights on. This store carries merchandise made only in France, run by a very nice/eccentric fellow with unpredictable hours of operation, but delectable choices of gifts from socks to costume jewelry, t-shirts, books, kids stuff and various chochkies, none of it inexpensive I might add, but such fun to see a little shop of this sort minus any Made in China stickers.

Next stop was to Monoprix on Rue de Rennes for bottled water to stock the mini fridge then back to Le Regent to rest and work up an appetite for dinner. It rained on and off for the three days but with my trusty umbrella I could have cared less. I was in Paris!

Dinner at 9:00 pm found me at Le Petit St. Benoit, 4 Rue St. Benoit sitting outside sipping a Demi carafe of rose. I ordered the onion soup, duck confit with mashed potato and for dessert a Mont Blanc, (chestnut pudding with whipped cream).This was the first time I had this served as a pudding, not a pastry, but it was yummy, if a little too rich. Of course, after duck, anything but fresh fruit would be too rich. Hey, I was here to eat, not to worry about rich. That would be for back home and diet time later - much later.

Day #1 done. Back to the hotel for a well deserved sleep in my comfy, cozy room with the rain pattering the roof top.

Paris is always a good idea!
travelchat is offline  
Old Jun 10th, 2017, 08:19 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nice start to your report. I'm looking forward to more.
Kathie is offline  
Old Jun 10th, 2017, 09:04 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,006
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm in for the ride. Thanks for sharing.
Treesa is offline  
Old Jun 10th, 2017, 10:36 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We were staying just down the street on rue Jacob - I wish I’d stopped in your store, Gab and Jo! Walked past it nearly every day.

Next time! Looking forward to hearing more.
Iwan2go is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 11:20 AM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Before I embark on Day #2 I want to extend my thanks for the helpful input I received reading TR's, hotel recs, etc, submitted by fellow Fodorites, particularly that related to the rental of theTravel-wifi device. I thought I had written down your sign-in name, but cannot seem to locate it. At any rate, a big Thank You for that vital piece which made my travel worry free, allowing me to check-in/text/skype with family daily. (My iPhone provider doesn't offer an international plan so I worked off the wifi and it did the trick.) this device functioned beautifully the entire ten days of my trip, both in Paris and all along the Seine when the ship's wifi was spotty. I loaned it out to several people on the ship which made me a very popular passenger! The cost of 98 euro was well worth it and I would definitely use the service next travel.

Okay, now for Day #2:
Breakfast was included in my room rate of E215 in the lower level grotto. It was a continental, normal, a plain and a chocolate croissant, baguette with jam, tea for me and orange juice. A quick, simple breakfast in the hotel wakes/sets me up for the day, so I prefer this, rather than searching out a cafe so early. But a Paul's just down the street would be a good choice for those that like to be out and about first thing.

On my list was a visit to the Longchamp shop just off Rue de Rennes on Vieux Columbier to look for a birthday gift for my daughter. Several years ago when we were in Paris as a family, we left the three boys, son-in-law and babysitter back at the Jardin de Luxembourg so we could do a little shopping before having tea at the Ritz. While at Longchamp I found a gold tote with the logo embossed all across the bag, an anniversary limited edition, apparently, and I was looking for something similar this time. Not to be, sadly. I settled on the navy with the word "Lucky!" in various embroidered colors on the front. I've seen it here in the U.S. since I've been back, alas. But at least I can say it was purchased in Paris.

That done, it was on to the Monoprix again, back toward Blvd. St. Germain when I saw a sign for Coiffure Ottombrino halfway down rue de Sabot Not liking the hose type hair dryer in the hotel, I decided to pop in and see about a shampoo and blow dry. Sure enough, I was welcomed by a very charming gentleman who did a super job making me feel pampered and I left feeling very pleased with my sudden impulse for indulgence.

Monoprix was next, where I had planned to browse the clothes and cosmetics, always fun to do and where I always manage to find a few goodies. I came away with a white gauze/linen shirt to wear over a camisole, a striped t-shirt, some nail polishes and two pair of earrings. Score!

Now it was time to hop a taxi for my 1:00 reservation at L'Ange20 - thank you Maitaitom! Yes, this is a darling tiny place and it was packed with French-in-the-know lunchers. I ordered the shrimp wrapped in angel hair pasta on a bed of guacamole, pate de foie gras as a second course and the berry meringue whipped cream dessert, along with a Demi carafe of rose, all wonderfully tasty.

Place des Vosges is always on my itinerary if I'm nearby, so after lunch I strolled over one block to sit there for a few minutes in the shade and enjoy. As I walked along rue de Turrene up past the Victor Hugo Cafe I happened upon a shop called Tumblewood Toys run by an American woman who has lived in France for 40 years. She kindly helped me choose gifts for my three young grandsons of unique picture puzzles with a rubic cube challenge to them. These could be mounted and framed for display as colorful souvenirs in their rooms when the challenge is met or the boredom kicks in.

Over to rue St. Antoine heading for the taxi rank along the St. Paul metro but first a stop at my favorite chochkie store in the Marais across from the church of St.-Paul-St.-Louis for small bring home gifts of mini pill boxes, magnets and dish towels. Random, but packable little tokens.

Back to Le Regent for some R&R which consisted of sitting out on the balcony for a bit, then a nap before dinner.

Raining again when I set out to walk a couple of blocks over to the Little Breizh Cafe on rue Gregoire de Tours for a late dinner. It was very crowded but I managed to squeeze into a tiny table against the wall, the only available. As I sat down several couples came in so I felt lucky that my timing was right. I ordered the ham/cheese/egg galette with a Demi carafe of dry cidre. For dessert - what else but the crepe Suzette - which was flamed at the table and utterly delicious! I had wanted for several years to try either of the Breizh locations so it was especially satisfying to have finally achieved this. What can I say? I'm a total foodie��

So ends my second wonderful day.
travelchat is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 11:25 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Emoji not working at end I'm a total foodie. Should have been:
travelchat is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 01:00 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
great start, travel chat.

I love Paris and last year went on a river cruise so on both accounts I'm very interested in what you have to say.
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 02:55 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Aboard for the voyage!
nukesafe is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 03:11 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Waiting for more travelchat, will be in Paris in 2 weeks! Making note of your shopping . . .
Scootoir is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 05:20 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Writing down some of the little shops you suggested. I'll be in Paree in September.
Debbielynn is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 07:38 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So excited to read your trip report! As I'm staying in the heart of the 6 th in November.
tanoose1 is offline  
Old Jun 11th, 2017, 08:16 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We loved the Breizhh cafe and ate there twice on our last trip. Glad to hear that you enjoyed it.
Kathie is offline  
Old Jun 12th, 2017, 01:51 PM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for all comments. It's heartening to know you are out there and following along!

Day #3
No rain so far so up and out right after my usual breakfast in the grotto. Walked over to Gab & Jo - no dice. Over to Citi Pharma at the corner of rue de Four and rue de Rennes where I was able to find my favorite shampoo, Furterer (four large tubes, at least enough for a year or more), several two-fers of the Luxe Lip Balm and hand lotion, large bottle of Bioderm cleanser and I was good to go. It was crowded but manageable, no where near the horror stories I've read about. Checkout was quick and easy too.

From there I went to Patrick Roger (know of this shop from a Paris By Mouth tour a few years ago) where I made a major investment in chocolate bars in those chic metal cases. My son-in-law, a chocolate connoisseur, swears this is the best he's ever tasted, so a couple of those for him now and a couple put away for his Father's Day gift.

Strolling back down Blvd St. Germain I spotted a shop window featuring cookies/biscuits in various prettily patterned tins, small and large. I'm thinking good to transport, won't get crushed, right? Last time I brought same back from Fauchon for my family they loved them, so.... Three lilac patterned one pound tins later I emerged from Maison Georges Lamicol schlepping a hefty bag and wondering how the heck I was going to fit all that I had gotten so far in my luggage. Shopping mania had me in its grip!

Time to stop at Le Deux Magots for a refreshing aperol spritzer and to rest my poor sore left foot before hoofing once again over to Gab & Jo. I was not going to take no for an answer here. I was determined to see this one out.

Moving right along, #3 attempt at Gab & Jo found the door finally open. This shop is an eclectic mix of really fun stuff as mentioned above. The owner, a charming and very personable guy. I found oh-so-soft, beautifully made-in-France socks with interesting designs for my son and DIL as well as for my daughter and SIL, a pretty pink Paris magnet for my fridge and a book for my grandsons to share. There were rings made from Chanel vintage buttons but I held my breathe and passed on those although I was mightily tempted to get one for my daughter. This store is a browser's paradise.

Now it was necessary to drop my bags at Le Regent and grab a taxi to Le Taillevent for my 1:30 lunch reservation. Patricia Wells recommends this iconic restaurant as being one of the best in Paris and who am I to argue? Indeed, it was fabulous. Their house champagne to start me off was lovely. Amuse bouche of a pair of mini shrimp egg rolls, followed by my choices of a lobster risotto entre, main course of duck breast a l'orange with baba au fruites de rouge for dessert along with a trio of mini pastries and a comforting pot of tea. I had chosen the lunch that came with wine so two glasses, one white the other red, were presented at the sommeliers discretion, both of which were excellent. A taxi was called and I stepped out under the umbrella of the door man to face rainy reality once more. But oh, that was a heavenly lunch.

Back at the hotel I rested and digested a bit before having to come to grips with the packing and my noon pickup next day to Conflans to meet the Vantage ship for embarkation to Normandy.

After some preliminary packing I decided - okay, not all going to fit in my suitcase and carry on due to the five pair of hefty shoes I brought (instead of the usual two) to combat the fasciitis pain, none of which brought relief. This foot situation was to taunt me the entire trip but that's another story. When it became clear I needed another small carry on I decided first thing in the morning I would run out to the little shop around the corner (Sacs Valises on rue St. Andres des Arts) that I remembered passing on one of my earlier walks. OMG! Three pieces of luggage? Shoot me now.

Still raining lightly as I made my way over to Le Relais d'Entrecote on rue St. Benoit for a late final dinner. Only waited in line for fifteen minutes this time. I do enjoy the simplicity of this meal. It's a no brainer, it's priced right and you know exactly what you're getting. The servers are pleasant and efficient, the crowd a mix of French families, those on dates and tourists like me. I had the usual salad, bien cuit steak - love that sauce - frites, a glass of the house red and my favorite dessert of the stacked ice cream/sorbet/vacherin. Yum.

Tomorrow would come too quickly with the luggage challenge in front of me. But I had had my marvelous three days of drifting about in Paris and I was so very happy.
travelchat is offline  
Old Jun 12th, 2017, 02:58 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What a lovely short stay in Paris!
Kathie is offline  
Old Jun 13th, 2017, 02:16 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
great stay and details - thanks.

and I'm impressed that after the lunch at Le Taillevent you had room for dinner as well - how did they compare in price, may I ask?
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 13th, 2017, 04:59 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,298
Received 6 Likes on 1 Post
Aaaah Paris! You've covered many of our favorites and added a new shop for us to check out...Gab & Jo.

I also deal with P. Fasciitis so I feel your pain. One thing that always seems to help is to put a small pillow (or rolled up clothing item) under the sheet to rest my foot in a flexed position when I sleep instead of letting it drop to a pointed position. Have no idea if it will help you but it's worth a try.

Looking forward to all the details of your river cruise. I've always wanted to try that but I can't seem to talk my husband into it so I'll be interested in your solo experience.

Travel on!
TPAYT is offline  
Old Jun 13th, 2017, 05:49 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,887
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Very enjoyable reading. Thank you for posting.
Weekender is offline  
Old Jun 13th, 2017, 10:08 AM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, Kathy, it was really a dreamy three days where I just floated along filling the space between meals and Les Deux Magots rest stops with the list of shops I had wanted to check out. If I hadn't had the problem with my foot I would have done much more walking, visiting the Luxembourg but I'll put that down for next time.

annhig: Le Taillevent - E130 with one glass of champagne and two of wine. Le Grand Vefour - E160 with one glass of champagne and one wine.The (comfortable)!quantity of food at Le Taillevent was about half of what I was served at Le Grand Vefour (IMHO way too much) my blow-out lunch last trip. Dinner after LGV was a bit of cheese and a few grapes in my room when I had several more days remaining.This dinner was more an excuse to be out and about on my final evening, not so much about being hungry. The server at L'Entrecote was quite taken aback when I refused seconds but I needed to leave room for my special dessert, the raspberry vacherin.

TPAYT: Just added a podiatrist to my ever growing list of doctors and the foot is taped for the next two weeks when I will go back for a checkup. X-rays revealed a heel spur in addition to the fasciitis. I'm also wearing the night boot contraption, all this bringing much relief from the pain. I'm a walker and find this very frustrating!
Appreciate for your commiserating.
travelchat is offline  
Old Jun 13th, 2017, 10:10 AM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Kathie, not Kathy - argh - hate the annoying self correct function.
travelchat is offline  
Old Jun 14th, 2017, 07:26 AM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wednesday morning, June 14, Chicago area - at home, for an hour of therapy with the fasciitis device in place preparing to update this TR, when I turn on the tv to see yet another shooting incident has taken place in the D.C. Area with congressional members of the government having been targeted, one shot along with four others and the gun man. Shocking to say the least. These horrors continue, both terrorist and other as most of us look helplessly on.

We are certainly living through extrordinarily strange and macabre times world wide. Chicago is, of course, experiencing its own version of the Wild West with multiple shootings/killings on a daily basis. Where will this all end?
travelchat is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -