Search

Mama Mia Italy!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 2nd, 2014, 10:29 PM
  #21  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
13 June Rome sightseeing

Having had a few action packed days, the plan for today was to take a bit easier. So I lingered at breakfast. It was a clear sunny day and just perfect to sit around on the hotel terrace over a coffee.

After consulting the helpful hotel receptionist and telling him about my plans, he suggested catching the 160 Bus from Via del Corso to Aventine Hill. They sold the bus tickets at hotel so I bought 3 tickets and went to Via del Corso bus stop which was 2 mins walk away from the hotel. Did I mention the awesome location of the Albergo Cesari??

I got off at Via Della Greca near Aventine hill and walked up to the Piazza dei Cavallieri di Malta home to the headquarters of the Knights of Malta. Through the keyhole in the impressive door you get a peek a boo view of the dome of St Peter’s. Totally worth tracking this little gem down. Next door in the church of Santa Sabina and a peaceful garden with the best views of Rome.

But first I had to find a loo and of course there was none around. No café or anything! I went to the seminary attached to the church and the helpful attendant there sneaked me in to use the office toilet. This is just one example of kindness of strangers.

Feeling much better I went to the garden and started chatting to a couple from South Africa. He had proposed the day before and they had come back to reminisce. Aww….
I took loads of photos for them and they even invited me to their wedding to be the wedding photographer 

I then strolled down the hill and to the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. I may have mentioned seeing Roman Holiday on this forum and of course I had to see the Mouth of Truth. Unfortunately about a couple of hundred other tourists had the same idea! There was a long line. Nothing to do but get in line. After 30 mins I got my 2 mins in front of the manhole cover. I stuck my hand in and had someone take a quick snap followed by a visit of the church.

Time to use my second bus ticket. I caught Bus 81 to the Vatican museum. But before tackling the museum I had lunch at a little deli/café on Via Silla. It was called Caffetteria Ruberto. A local place. No tourists. For 5.60E I got 2 yummy paninis, 1 bottle water and a coffee. Seriously a bargain.

Then it was time to tackle the Vatican Museum. I had my timed ticket bought online and so had no wait in line for tickets or for entry. But as soon as I walked in I realised my mistake. Should have got the night ticket not afternoon ticket. It was CROWDED!! I had my notes from Ron in Rome so I saw the spiral staircase first.

Then went to Piñacoteca and saw the highlights. I wanted to use my Rick Steves audio guide for the Sistine Chapel but my Iphone was dying on me. Luckily I had my printed notes with me. Made my way to Sistine chapel via hundred thousand groups and tourists. The map gallery was amazing.

Unluckily it was too too crowded inside the Sistine chapel. Hard to reflect and observe with so many people pressing around you. But I managed to snag a seat along the wall and sat for a good few mins to take it all in.
To exit, I walked behind a tour group and out the side the door to St. Peter's Basilica. First on the agenda was the cupola. I took the lift but did not have the energy or knees to climb all the way up. Wow! The view of the inside of St Peter’s was incredible.

Back down to the church but once again too many tourists, too busy, not an enjoyable experience. But I did find a couple of quiet spots and took it all in. This was THE church. I felt overwhelmed and so touched.

I managed to turn my phone on for a moment and contact with my friend who had just arrived in Rome. We had made plans to meet for a drink near the Vatican around 5:30pm. So I headed out to the Footlocker store which was the only landmark I remembered on Piazza del Risorgimento. We literally ran into each other!

We found a little café/bar in the street behind and we had some pear juice while my friend’s husband had a Cuban mojito which I think was a bit strong  I heard all about their trip so far and made plans to have dinner together the next day.
Feeling the heat I took Bus 81 back to Via del Corso. For those staying around the Vatican, Via Cola di Rienzo has awesome shopping. I even had a hot tip about an outlet there called Gente but I was just too tired to track it down.

At the hotel I had a short rest before heading out for dinner around 8pm.

I chose Pietro al Pantheon from the TA app. It was a restaurant near the Pantheon on Via dei Pastini. This street has many restaurant but this seemed to be the only one that was turning people away. I tentatively approached the waiter at the door and asked for a table for one. He effusively welcomed me in and set me up facing the front on small table. I asked what he would recommend for a vegetarian and he said that zucchini flowers was in season so I should have the pasta with zucchini flowers. I took the recommendation along with a white wine suggestion. Pasta, bread, glass of white 15E.
Walk back via Giolotti….

Here is the link to my post and photos
http://redsuitcasetravel.blogspot.co...ghtseeing.html
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 2nd, 2014, 11:50 PM
  #22  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
14 June Rome laundry day
Started the day slowly as I had blisters on my feet I made good use of my Compeed bandages.

Note: - IMO you can’t use normal band aid on blisters. You need second skin bandages like Compeed. These are the only things that work effectively.

Today was laundry day.

Note: - I obsessively read travel blogs and went through Pinterest about packing efficiently, travel capsule wardrobes and packing cubes. A really good website is http://travelfashiongirl.com/

I coordinated all my outfits before I left and had multiple options. But I had to do laundry every 6 days or so because of the heat. The hotel recommended a Wash & Dry near Via del Tritone, Piazza Barberini. It was a decent place. Wash and dry plus soap cost 9E. While waiting for clothes to dry, I quickly popped out to get money from an ATM in Piazza Barberini.

I went back to the hotel to drop off clean laundry and got directions to Basilica of San Clemente.

But first I wanted lunch and coffee. I went to Tazza D'oro and had a coffee granita. Yummy! The cream was too much for me I managed to eat the icy coffee slush. From there I walked towards Campo Di Fiori and went into Il Fornaio off Corso Vittorio Emmanuel. Had a slice of veggie pizza and Coke Zero for 3.70E.

Finally caught Bus 87 to Basilica of San Clemente. The traffic was bad as something was on at Piazza Venezia, so the bus was diverted up Via Nazionale and back down Via Cavour before getting to. Via Labicana around 2:30pm. By the time I took photos of the Colosseum and walked to the church it was another 15 mins. The church was closed for lunch until 3pm so I waited with a bunch of other visitors.

There are 3 tiers to this complex. Each level down is older than the one before, dating back 2000 years. Fascinating but a bit creepy and smelly. Headed back up to the courtyard and had a little quite time. Used the loo there and walked back towards the Colosseum. More photos and then Bus 85 back to Via del Corso.

At this point it was starting to rain properly and the blisters were really sore, so I went back to the hotel for a rest.

At around 6pm I got a call from my friend that they were in the area. We met up and walked to the Pantheon stopping at Tazza D'oro for coffee. From the Pantheon we went to Piazza Navona, stopping in some little shops. We went back to the little shop that had Limoncello tastings and my friend and her husband bought some very nice Limoncello to take home.

We decided to find a restaurant my friend had had seen on TA that was nearby - Al Duello. It was a lovely restaurant and we had a very nice meal. We all had pasta and the house red and white wine with some homemade bread. Total bill was 58E. I had the pasta with zucchini flowers and lemon. Loved it. We all thought the pasta was a bit salty, good thing I like my food salty  Both the red and white wine was really good. The restaurant called a taxi for them and I walked back to the hotel. It was so nice to have good company for dinner. The restaurant kindly called a taxi for my friends as they were staying near the Vatican. And I slowly strolled back to my hotel.
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 2nd, 2014, 11:58 PM
  #23  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is the link to my post and photos
http://redsuitcasetravel.blogspot.co...undry-day.html
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 06:25 AM
  #24  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Titally understand the Pinterest addiction....I am always saving packing tips to one of my boards. I can't stop.
denisea is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 08:36 AM
  #25  
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
With what were the zucchini flowers stuffed, please. Enjoying this very much.
TDudette is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 09:05 AM
  #26  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
>>> ... as I gazed up at the oculus I thought that we may have made progress in terms of technology but maybe lost something along the way. <<<

The Pantheon - and in many ways, Rome itself - also gives me this feeling.
LCBoniti is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 10:09 AM
  #27  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
TD - when i have had fiori fritti they have been stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy. I tried doing it at home but it was not terribly successful.
annhig is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 11:32 AM
  #28  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ozgirl107, really enjoying your TR and photos! Thanks or sharing. Makes us eager for a return to Rome.
tomarkot is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 11:54 AM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm really enjoying this, it brings back wonderful memories. Thanks for sharing.
xyz99 is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 12:45 PM
  #30  
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report and photos on your blog! Wish I knew about Compeed before this - will pack it for my next visit. This past April I had some serious blisters from pounding the Rome cobbles and need to make use of their bus system. Also, must take the time for some gelato! Not until my last day in Italy on Lake Como did I realize I hadn't had any yet ... horrors!
Janetd5 is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 01:04 PM
  #31  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
I had to buy some of these blisters when we were in Valencia where they cost about €8 for a pack of 5. In our local chemist they were about £3 ie 50% of the price in europe. if you're planning of doing a lot of walking or are prone to blisters and think you might need them, I suggest stocking up at home.
annhig is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 03:55 PM
  #32  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
15 June Cinque Terre

It was bucketing down rain this morning. The heat wave in Rome had broken. Luckily I was leaving the rain behind 

I had the hotel reception call a taxi for me to Termini. From Via del Corso to Termini 12E.

I had booked online tickets on the Intercity train at 9:57am to La Spezia. In Termini I easily found train board and waited for information to come up. The platform number is displayed 20 mins before train departure. My ticket was 1st class and I had read instructions on www.seat61.com. Find the coach number and get on without letting the “helpers” take your bag. I should have bought ticket to Riomaggiore for connection at Termini because this caused me a bit of hassle later. I stored my bag under the table between seats.
An American couple got on part way and were allocated seats with me but were kind enough to find other seats. They had 4 suitcases and needed a lot of room  Fortunately the coach was not even half full.
I got off at La Spezia, ran to the connection train but missed it because I didn't have a ticket. Next train was in half hour so I bought a ticket from La Spezia to Riomaggiore for 2.10E.
This was a Regional train and very smelly. In Riomaggiore, want to info office next to the train station and asked about the bus. I had 30 mins wait in town but it was a very steep climb to the Hotel Villa Argentina so decided to wait. Bus fare was 2E.
Hotel Villa Argentina was nice enough. Basic but clean. Room had an amazing view. I was joining GAdventures Cinque Terre coastal walk tour. http://www.gadventures.com.au/trips/...alk/EICW/2014/ Group meeting at 6:30 so decide to rest until then.
At the meeting I met 4 other tour members and tour guide Mario. Everyone was very nice. My roommate cancelled and so I got the room to myself. Yay!

After intros and general information sharing we all went to dinner together to Il Grotta in town.
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 05:42 PM
  #33  
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Really enjoyed your trip report and the links to your blog and photos.

Did you ever find out what was going on with the Trevi Fountain?

Thanks for the tip about Compeed for blister relief. I'll have to check into that as I'm planning my 2015 trip and am sure to be walking a lot! Is that a brand exclusive to Australia or can I find it here in the US?
chris45ny is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 07:41 PM
  #34  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Re Compeed - I'm sure you can get it in the UK and US
http://www.amazon.com/Compeed-Bliste.../dp/B000MTF17Q

The Trevi fountain restoration is supposed to go on for a year and half!

http://www.italianinsider.it/?q=node/2280
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 3rd, 2014, 11:14 PM
  #35  
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ttp
Poconolady is offline  
Old Aug 4th, 2014, 04:18 AM
  #36  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
16 June - We went for our walk from Vernazza to Monterosso. First we took the Cinque Terre train from Riomaggiore to Vernazza. We walked around town. It felt very touristy and packed. Thanks Rick Steves

We started our walk! Most of the coastal walks were closed. This was one of the few open. At points the path was very narrow and a lot of people were walking. We even met a 90 year old German woman walking!

Took us a couple of hours to walk to Monterosso with lots of photo stops. The part of Monterosso after the path is very nice. I think this is the old town. We walked around that area first before going back towards the beginning of the path to find Il Casello for lunch. Lunch was very nice and the view priceless. I had Caprese salad and Trofie al Pesto. 23E

We then walked over to the other side of town. This is where the only sandy beach in CT is. The water was tempting! But we decided to keep exploring and took the train to Cornelia. Walked up the steep flight of stairs from the train station to the town. Probably the quietest town of the 5. Less touristy but also less cafés and amenities.

Then we took the train back to Riomaggiore and to the hotel to change. It was time for a swim on the rocky beach in Riomaggiore. The water was cold but refreshing. The sea was so calm. Like a lake. Our guide Mario was into rock diving and demonstrated from one of the rocks. Adrenalin junkie! After our swim we walked back to town for a quick bite ata pizza place, standing dinner.

17 June – Today was our big walk to Portovenere. We were soft and took the bus to Telegrafo. The beginning of the walk from Telegrafo was very pleasant through woods. But most of it was treacherous over rocky cliffs and a lot of up and down hill. But the scenery was just breathtaking!! Had a picnic lunch on the way sitting on cliff tops. This is the memory I will have with me forever.

We finally made it to Portovenere after 4 hours. It is a gorgeous little town. Loads of Italian (I think) holiday makers.

We took a short break in one on of the town squares, sitting under a tree catching our breath. Before long Mario was telling us about a “beach” nearby. It was more of a rocky cove and deep sea. Mario once again dived off a rock, this time it must have been at least equivalent to a 3 story building! Mama Mia!! We had a paddle around the rocks but I wasn’t game enough to venture further into the sea.

We caught the ferry back to Riomaggiore. After a short rest and shower we decided to dress up and go to Manarola for dinner on the train. We went to the Aristide restaurant. Very nice meal and service under a pergola in the town square. I had spinach ravioli and strawberry tart plus house white. Yum! Manarola is one of the nicest towns. I'd stay here if I came back to CT.

18 June - Even though it was a tour free day meaning Mario had a break from us, we decided to stick together and go to Portofino.

We were all getting along so well. I am so glad that I did this tour and met these lovely women and of course the daredevil Mario

Firstly we took the train to Santa Margherita Ligure. Then the bus from the car park outside the train station to Portofino. The train ride took over 1 hour and the bus ride about 15 minutes. I used the Rick Steves Italy guide book to direct us.

Bus ride went via gorgeous scenery along the coast. There are some nice beaches along the way. We saw a very nice sandy public beach.

Portofino is a very posh town. Gucci, Prada, LV, Dior stores. Very picturesque. We walked up to Brown Castle for the stunning view. Got some of the best photos of the trip. I think I will be framing one the shots I took from this vantage point.

Back down for an overpriced lunch in front of water. The
service at this restaurant was bad. We should have walked back through town. I had Pesto pizza. It was tasty but very oily.
I had the best gelato of the trip at Calata 32 Gelateria. I had hazelnut chocolate and mint. The mint gelato was all white, no fake green colouring in this gelato. Apparently gelato in metal containers with the lids on is the real deal. Not the colourful mounds you see in the glass windows.
We were back on bus to Santa Margherita Ligure. We got off near the board walk and sat around for a bit before walking to train station. Walking through town I saw that this was a busy place and there were loads of shops and cafes.

Back in Riomaggiore, we had a rest before going back to Manarola for dinner at same restaurant. Service was a bit different tonight. I had grilled veggies, pesto gnocchi and panna cotta. Of course the delicious house white. We saw the sunset in Manarola. Ahhh the perfect end to my Cinque Terre sojourn….
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 4th, 2014, 05:02 AM
  #37  
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Wonderful
TDudette is offline  
Old Aug 4th, 2014, 05:07 AM
  #38  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is my Cinque Terre blog post and photos
http://redsuitcasetravel.blogspot.co...que-terre.html
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 4th, 2014, 05:09 AM
  #39  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks TDudette. I forgot to mention that the stuffing in the zucchini flowers was just mozzarella for me. They were dipped in batter and deep fried.... Oh the calories in that dish....
Ozgirl07 is offline  
Old Aug 4th, 2014, 05:43 AM
  #40  
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Really loving your report and the magnificent pictures. What camera are you using if you don't mind my question.

I'm looking to buy something for myself that takes decent pictures at night.
chris45ny is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -