Maison Carree in Nimes, & a few other things about Provence.
Jul 21st, 2010, 06:17 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maison Carree in Nimes, & a few other things about Provence.
We just got back from 4 1/2 weeks in France - 2 in Provence & 2 in the Alps.
We took the TGV from Paris to Nimes & stayed 1 night there before staying 2 weeks (June 19 to July 3) in our "usual" Gite at the south side of Mt Ventoux.
The Maison Carree in Nimes is undergoing restoration and is almost 100% covered with white sheeting - you can't really see anything. Big disappointment!!. Completion is "scheduled" for the end of Sept (according to the tourist office).
Also, there is no lavender growing directly in front of Senanque Abbey. It is almost all weeds. The other lavender fields near the Abbey are there - but nothing directly in front of the Abbey like you see on postcards and on the cover of my Michelin Green Guide,. The tour guide said that they are planting new lavender - but we certainly didn't see any small lavender planted, like we did elsewhere in Provence. You can only visit Senanque Abbey on a guided tour - French only, infrequent schedule, limited tour size, and a little tedious if you don't understand French. It is about a 1 1/4 hr tour.
The "fabulous/ huge" lavender field we saw in '07 near St Christol is no longer there - weeds again. The lavender this year did not seem as robust as it did in '07 or any of our previous 5-6 trips during lavender blooming season. Gite owners said that winter held very late this year & spring was not that great. Poppies were still blooming in early July!!!
There were several posts this year & last year about Michelin Map #113, which is the one I recommend. People stated that it is no longer published. Well - it is still being published. I have an '06 verson, and while in France I purchased a newer publication, which has several "new" features (like the star rating next to the "site" on the map). If you can't find the 113 map and you plan to visit Aix, Uzes, Nimes, Montpellier, the Camargue, or Aigues Mortes - you will need to Purchase 3 different 300 series maps if you can't get #113.
I am updating my Provence itinerary - so the 40-50 people who requested it while we were away will have to wait a few more days before I finish it & can send it to all those who sent me e-mails.
Stu Dudley
We took the TGV from Paris to Nimes & stayed 1 night there before staying 2 weeks (June 19 to July 3) in our "usual" Gite at the south side of Mt Ventoux.
The Maison Carree in Nimes is undergoing restoration and is almost 100% covered with white sheeting - you can't really see anything. Big disappointment!!. Completion is "scheduled" for the end of Sept (according to the tourist office).
Also, there is no lavender growing directly in front of Senanque Abbey. It is almost all weeds. The other lavender fields near the Abbey are there - but nothing directly in front of the Abbey like you see on postcards and on the cover of my Michelin Green Guide,. The tour guide said that they are planting new lavender - but we certainly didn't see any small lavender planted, like we did elsewhere in Provence. You can only visit Senanque Abbey on a guided tour - French only, infrequent schedule, limited tour size, and a little tedious if you don't understand French. It is about a 1 1/4 hr tour.
The "fabulous/ huge" lavender field we saw in '07 near St Christol is no longer there - weeds again. The lavender this year did not seem as robust as it did in '07 or any of our previous 5-6 trips during lavender blooming season. Gite owners said that winter held very late this year & spring was not that great. Poppies were still blooming in early July!!!
There were several posts this year & last year about Michelin Map #113, which is the one I recommend. People stated that it is no longer published. Well - it is still being published. I have an '06 verson, and while in France I purchased a newer publication, which has several "new" features (like the star rating next to the "site" on the map). If you can't find the 113 map and you plan to visit Aix, Uzes, Nimes, Montpellier, the Camargue, or Aigues Mortes - you will need to Purchase 3 different 300 series maps if you can't get #113.
I am updating my Provence itinerary - so the 40-50 people who requested it while we were away will have to wait a few more days before I finish it & can send it to all those who sent me e-mails.
Stu Dudley
Jul 21st, 2010, 06:42 AM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Stu for the brief update. Now I'm wondering if a visit to Senanque this fall should be left on our itinerary. My French isn't all that good, my husband's goes little beyond reading a menu and an infrequent schedule isn't exactly reassuring. I look forward to your updates.
Thanks,
C.
Thanks,
C.
Jul 21st, 2010, 07:51 AM
#3
Welcome back. Sorry you missed seeing the Maison Carre
which means square house is a Roman temple built
around 1,900 years ago. We saw the perfectly preserved mosaic
floor and beautifully sculptured Apolloin marble
and besides others the city's most celebrated, Venus de Nimes.
A pity about the lavender, but I'm sure you and your family had a good time.
which means square house is a Roman temple built
around 1,900 years ago. We saw the perfectly preserved mosaic
floor and beautifully sculptured Apolloin marble
and besides others the city's most celebrated, Venus de Nimes.
A pity about the lavender, but I'm sure you and your family had a good time.
Jul 21st, 2010, 07:52 AM
#4
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stu, thanks so much for the update! We are going to Provence next month (staying in Arles) and Nimes was on my list of places to visit, mainly to experience the Maison Carree. Now however I might save that for another trip, since there are so many other things we want to experience in Provence as well!
I would also love a copy of your Provence itinerary. Will you be posting your e-mail address on this thread?
I would also love a copy of your Provence itinerary. Will you be posting your e-mail address on this thread?
Jul 21st, 2010, 07:56 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jul 21st, 2010, 09:07 AM
#6
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, Stu. Did you have a good time? You've definitely been missed! Thanks for the input about the Maison Carree. We've been debating over adding Nimes to the mix, but it may not be worth the extra time from our base in Bonnieux if it takes anything away from the day trips to Uzes, Pont du Gard and the Alpilles region. Even if it is "unveiled" soon, I'm not sure if it's worth the extra time unless one is actually based nearby. (I am interested in their Jardins de la Fontaine, though. Have you seen those?)
Similarly, I had already been leaning more toward a visit to Silvacane instead of Senanque, so I think that's more solidified now.
It certainly seems that the cold, wet spring and late summer were universal.
Anyway, welcome back!
Similarly, I had already been leaning more toward a visit to Silvacane instead of Senanque, so I think that's more solidified now.
It certainly seems that the cold, wet spring and late summer were universal.
Anyway, welcome back!
Jul 21st, 2010, 10:21 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
>>We've been debating over adding Nimes to the mix<<
We were underwhelmed with Nimes. This was our third visit - but first overnight. We were there on a Friday night & Sat morning. Compared to Aix and Avignon - Nimes, IMO, is a distant third. We did an overnight in Aix 5 days later and it is a much more vibrant & interesting city (this was about our 7th visit to Aix). Uzes is much smaller, but I think we spent more time in Uzes than in Nimes (many visits to Uzes - we stayed in a gite near there for 2 weeks).
Stu Dudley
We were underwhelmed with Nimes. This was our third visit - but first overnight. We were there on a Friday night & Sat morning. Compared to Aix and Avignon - Nimes, IMO, is a distant third. We did an overnight in Aix 5 days later and it is a much more vibrant & interesting city (this was about our 7th visit to Aix). Uzes is much smaller, but I think we spent more time in Uzes than in Nimes (many visits to Uzes - we stayed in a gite near there for 2 weeks).
Stu Dudley
Jul 21st, 2010, 04:26 PM
#8
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My friend and I were also disappointed in Nimes. I had seen the Maison Caree six years or so ago before the cleaning, but at least I saw it. I was there two years ago and It appeared to me that there had been no progress made this year--June 2010. We travelled in late June especially to see the lavender and were terribly disappointed. Uzes was as charming as ever. That is a must see as is Aix. Stu is correct as usual. The arena in Nimes was also a waste of money. They were setting up for a concert and there was absolutely nothing to see or anywhere to move around inside. In the past they had interesting displays and you could walk around. Nimes is a waste of time and money.
Jul 21st, 2010, 05:33 PM
#10
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Stu, I'm always interested in your comments about your trips. In '07 when we were in Nimes the Maison Carree was not open to go inside because they were showing some "movie" and you had to pay to see it if you wanted to see inside. However, I am glad we saw the exterior.
nametaken, my husband, son, and I really enjoyed the arena. I am sorry the "displays" are gone as they were very interesting. Our son spent a lot of time reading and looking.
nametaken, my husband, son, and I really enjoyed the arena. I am sorry the "displays" are gone as they were very interesting. Our son spent a lot of time reading and looking.
Jul 21st, 2010, 07:39 PM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shoot, cigalechante. I suspected you were right fromthe gorgeous pics I had seen. I LOVE gardens, but I'm not sure if it's the only/best reason to go out of my way to Nimes. I think I'll keep that warm on the backburner for another trip!
Jul 21st, 2010, 08:55 PM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome back ! We were just in Provence last week on July 14 for a photo excursion and followed your lavender itinerary, thank you so much ! It was a really great day and your itinerary was spot on and a huge help.
We started off in Senanque, including the tour. I thought the view there was amazing, just like in the postcards. I didn't even realise there was usually lavender right in front, there was still a lot just a little further back making for great photo ops.
We did do the tour, but we speak French. I think if you don't at least speak some, you really wouldn't get much out of the tour. It was also quite hot.
The one part we did miss on your itinerary was the part by St Cristol. We didn't make it to Sault until almost 3 pm so we had to cut it out, sorry to hear it is no longer there.
The valley near Sault was incredible, it is hard to believe it has been even better on other years. Last year we were in Provence but closer to Roussillon for the lavender and while I thought it was beautiful there, the Sault Valley was so much better.
Thanks once again, we really had a lovely day thanks to you !
We started off in Senanque, including the tour. I thought the view there was amazing, just like in the postcards. I didn't even realise there was usually lavender right in front, there was still a lot just a little further back making for great photo ops.
We did do the tour, but we speak French. I think if you don't at least speak some, you really wouldn't get much out of the tour. It was also quite hot.
The one part we did miss on your itinerary was the part by St Cristol. We didn't make it to Sault until almost 3 pm so we had to cut it out, sorry to hear it is no longer there.
The valley near Sault was incredible, it is hard to believe it has been even better on other years. Last year we were in Provence but closer to Roussillon for the lavender and while I thought it was beautiful there, the Sault Valley was so much better.
Thanks once again, we really had a lovely day thanks to you !
Jul 22nd, 2010, 06:03 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
kellyee21
Glad you enjoyed the lavender route. After I posted the above, Kevin (who lives in the Luberon) e-mailed me and said that the lavender this year is fantastic - it just bloomed about 3-4 weeks later because of the late winter & cool spring. When we drove through the lavender fields below Sault on about July 1, there was very little color at all, compared to previous years in late June.
Stu Dudley
Glad you enjoyed the lavender route. After I posted the above, Kevin (who lives in the Luberon) e-mailed me and said that the lavender this year is fantastic - it just bloomed about 3-4 weeks later because of the late winter & cool spring. When we drove through the lavender fields below Sault on about July 1, there was very little color at all, compared to previous years in late June.
Stu Dudley
