Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Please Help Critique My Paris/Nice Itinerary

Please Help Critique My Paris/Nice Itinerary

Old Mar 26th, 2010, 11:54 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Please Help Critique My Paris/Nice Itinerary

Hi - DH & I are going to Paris & Nice late June for 11 days. We like museums, love food and wandering around getting a feel for the country we’re visiting. We like walking tours and have taken them before with London Walks & Rome Walks so will take some with Paris Walks. We’re staying at the Grand Hommes in the Latin Quarter and the Hotel Suisse in Nice. Have been reading the forums, scouring the guidebooks and have come up with the following itinerary. Please comment/critique with any helpful advice.

Sunday – arrival 6AM –Nothing booked. Playing it by ear depending on how we feel. Maybe stay around the Latin Quarter or Hop on/off bus tour. Boat Ride on the Seine or if feeling energetic Eiffel Tower/Champs Elysees.

Monday – AM Paris Walks Tour Ile de la Cite & Notre Dame – Then wander around Notre Dame/La Conciergerie/Ile del la Cite & St. Louis. Evening Sienne Cruise.

T uesday – Versailles Day Trip *Can we purchase train tickets to Versailles once we’re in Paris or should we book in advance. I’d prefer not to in case of bad weather.
Wednesday – AM Paris Walks Tour village of Montmarte - Then, Opera Garnier. Louvre (open late Wed. eve.)Tullieres & Place de la Concord

Thursday – AM Paris Walks St. Germain Pres tour – then Musee d’Orsay, Jardine du Luxemborg, St.Sulpice. (May do d’Orsay 1st thing in the am & do Marais Tour at 2:30). Evening -Pompidou.

Friday – Train to Nice –leaving on Tuesday back to U.S. We have no definite plans yet but am going to look into a few day trips to Eze, St.Paul De Vence, Antibe or Monaco. Any other cities you can recommend?

Also does anyone know of a good café for breakfast in the Latin Qtr. Pantheon Area? And any favorite restaurant recommendations would be much appreciated. Thanks all for your help!
kaybee is offline  
Old Mar 26th, 2010, 12:04 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 34,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think your plans look pretty good. Two major museums in one day on Thursday would be too much for me (Orsay and Pompidou), but not for others.

Versailles is a suburb of Paris, there are ten zillion commuter light-rail trains going back and forth all day about every 15 minutes, there is no need whatsoever to buy tickets ahead. I think it only costs 3-4 euro, as I recall (one way). There wouldn't be any point to buying them ahead anyway, as you can't reserve seats or a particular time so someone who had one ahead of time would have no advantage over someone who bought one on the spot.


I think Crepes a Go GO has good breakfast food (it is not just crepes) and it's almost right across from the Pantheon on the north side of rue Soufflot -- kind of on a corner there. At least I've been there for lunch and they had good omelets and things. It's kind of a homey, neighborhood place so babies in strollers may be at your feet.

Les Fontaines which is about right across the street from them has good sauteed liver and decent other food, but it is pretty small and crowded.
Christina is online now  
Old Mar 26th, 2010, 12:58 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
While in Nice you might consider going to Menton which is arguably (but please don't) the most beautiful city on the Riviera. It is only a few minutes farther east from Monte Carlo by train. I would visit Menton in the afternoon and then Monte Carlo at night when it is most beautiful. Also consider taking train or bus from Nice to Beaulieu Sur Mer (only 11 minutes by train) and then walk the paved path out Cap Ferrat to the village of St. Jean Cap Ferrat. You might enjoy also walking completely around the cap as it does not take long. You can see the Belgium military cemetery and the chapel with the gigantic statue of the Virgin Mary out near the tip of the cap. Another option is to take the train from Nice up into the Maritime Alps. This train line runs from Nice to Cuneo, Italy but it is not far to get to the beautiful medieval French mountain villages of Peillon, Breil Sur Roya and Saorge. This will involve a bit of walking from the train stations to the villages but not really too much. I am often met by a friendly local dog that walks with me. These dogs don't see too many strangers and seem to enjoy the companionship.........as do I. You can Google for lots of photos of these villages.

St. Paul de Vence is a great choice also. Great art galleries. You might want to visit the village cemetery. Enter the gate, immediately turn right, go 6 meters, turn left and you will find the grave of my favorite artist Marc Chagall.

Have fun,
Larry J
LarryJ is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 08:06 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just curious as to why you are taking the train to Nice from Paris instead of flying...you can fly for as little as $49 (Jet Blue I think...go to Kayak.com and search for fares) - you're there in a jiffy. If you take the train you're using the better part of a vacation day. The Nice airport is adjacent to the city, so getting to your hotel is fast and easy.

Hotel Suisse is fine, but I think overpriced. We loved staying at the Mercure hotel:

http://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-...rs/index.shtml

This hotel is also on the same boulevard as the Hotel Suisse, but about 1 kilometre before it - it also faces the Med, and behind the hotel is the beautiful market in the Older section of Nice. You are so close to everything here.

When in Nice, don't be afraid to take the bus - especially to Monaco. Probably the prettiest bus tickets you will ever see, but so cheap - it's about a Euro or two as I remember and takes you directly to the Grimaldi's palace.

Have you been to Paris before? Do you know about the Museum Pass? You can purchase these passes for 1, 3 and 7 day periods. They are invaluable because they mean you DON'T HAVE TO WAIT IN LINES...with the pass you enter in a side entrance and bypass the very lengthy lines that are out front. If you are trying to do multiple museums in a day you absolutely, positively don't want to spend an hour or more standing out front. The pass price is about the same as regular admission - the big savings here is your time. (Also, it's good for all sorts of things - it gives you entrance to the Arc de Triomphe...you can climb the stairs to the top and have one of the most beautiful views of the boulevards of the city...I like the view from here almost better than the Eiffel Tower.) In fact, plan to go to the Arc in the evening...if you're there close to 10:00pm you can see the Eiffel Tower illuminated - the lights are turned on then.)

I am going here, but you said you liked neat food exeperiences...check out the website, Chocolate and Zucchini or David Lebovitz's site (ex-pat Californian, and pastry chef who know lives in Paris, and the site The Paris Kitchen.) All have great info about all different kinds of food experiences from markets to bistros to restaurants...lots of good info when you dig around their sites.

http://chocolateandzucchini.com/

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/

http://www.thepariskitchen.com/

All three sites have loads of "insider" tips and info about the city.

Bon Appetit!
phenry is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 08:14 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oopsy, one more thing - if you like walking tours have you checked out Rick Steves website? You can download walking tours to your Ipod (free, free, free) and then you can be "hands free" when you are wandering about. Frees you up from staring at a guide book as you move around.

We are going back to Paris this July, I would love to know what you think of the "Paris Walks" tours...is this from the website, "I Prefer Paris?"...I believe I have seen them promoted there. I thought we might want to do some of the tours they have advertised, but I didn't know if it was good value for money.
phenry is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 08:19 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One more thing...I too would love more info about Menton. We are going to the Cote d'Azur in July (For about a week) and I was considering using Menton as our homebase instead of Nice. Good idea? Bad idea?
phenry is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 08:29 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh my, I seem to be making a pest of myself here! One thing about your itinerary...the boat tour of the Seine is a little dullsville during the day...you will get the same view if you walk along the Seine. However, at night it is quite beautiful - the city of lights are twinkling, it's romantic, you see the tango dancers tangoing at the river's edge - magnifique! Plus, since tours leave pretty much hourly, you can plan to be on the boat when the lights of the Eiffel Tower go on...so nifty.

Also, if you can, plan to see the Rodin Museum and Gardens. It is a small museum that is fairly close to the D'Orsay and it is simply wonderful. You will be agog at the sculptures, the gardens and Rodin's collection of art from other impressionists (he collected the early Van Gogh's and some of them are here.) For me the Pompidou is just like so many other Modern Art Museums - fun and interesting, but not a "must see". (Having said that, I did enjoy it and the Marias neighbourhood in which it is located is one of my favourites.)
phenry is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 08:42 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,067
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You might be interested in my Paris/Cote d'Azure trip report from this past November. IT's at http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ote-dazure.cfm

The Paris portion may not interest you as I've been to Paris many times and mainly went to visit my daughter. But the things you mention about the Nice part of your trip are all things I did so take a look at that part.

The location of your Paris hotel is excellent, I stayed right near there and it's the best area to base in. There are tons of cafes to have breakfast in. I really like Brioche Doree, which is a chain, there's one on Boul St Mich right near your hotel. They have breakfast specials that include juice.
isabel is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 08:50 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
In St. Paul de Vence, the Foundation Maeght (modern/contemporary art) is wonderful and can be enjoyed in a couple of hours ... or days.

http://www.fondation-maeght.com/

If you are a fan of Matisse then his Chapelle du Rosarie in Vence is not to be missed. (Be careful to check the hours carefully or you will indeed miss it.)

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/maison.l...re/index02.htm

I also love the Chagall and Matisse museums in Nice but by then you may be museumed out. Don't forget to bring binoculars for your Opera Garnier visit so you can better enjoy Chagall's beautiful ceiling.

I'd also recommend the museum pass in Paris. It's a great way to see smaller museums if you happen to be in the neighborhood without a huge financial commitment. I found the Delacroix museum this way and it remains a favourite. There's a pleasant interior garden that is a nice place to rest.
mvor is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2010, 04:39 PM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much to everyone who has posted! I love how helpful the people on this forum are!

Christina: I agree with your suggestion about the Pompidou. We’re not big modern art fans so if we don’t get to it – no big deal. But I am interested in seeing the structure itself and the fountains. I’ll get tix to Versailles when we’re there & thanks so much for the breakfast places. Will check them out!

LarryJ: Thanks for the great detailed information about Nice & surrounding towns. Will definitely put Menton on our list!

PHenry: I haven’t purchased train tickets yet to Nice. I hadn’t really thought about flying. I don’t mind a scenic train ride and I did read it was quite scenic and beautiful. I wasn’t aware it was such a short flight. I was thinking that getting to CDG airport 1 hrs. before flight, checking bags + flight time, retrieving bags and getting to Nice didn’t seem like such a great alternative. Thanks for all your information re Nice. The Mercure does look lovely – I will look into it – but we did get a fabulous rate at the Suisse. We have not been to Paris before. I agree with you and planned on purchasing the Museum Pass at CDG. I have seen the David Lebovitz website but the other 2 look great also. I have bookmarked them. Paris Walks website is: http://www.paris-walks.com/index.html. As I said we have used them in Rome and London. The guides were knowledgeable and we found the tours to be informative and a lot of fun . The best part is they are only 12€ per adult and you just show up at the meeting place if you want to join in – no advance booking. So if it fits into our schedule, we show up! I will check out the Rick Steves downloads for our IPods as well. I agree with doing the Seine boat ride at night – I’ve read it’s beautiful! Thanks for so much input – I appreciate it!

Isabel: Have read your fabulous trip report ! Your pictures are breathtaking – I don’t even want to take any – I just want to buy yours! Have printed out the Nice information from your report and plan on taking it with me! I’m still laughing about your comparison of Monte Carlo & visiting the zoo! Thanks Again!

Mvor: Thanks for all the great information. Looking forward to visiting the Chagall & Matisse museums in Nice as well, and will put the Delacroix on my list in case there’s time! Thank You!
kaybee is offline  
Old Mar 28th, 2010, 09:21 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Kaybee,

As for choosing between taking the train to Nice or flying I can tell you this. I live in Paris and go to Nice 3 or 4 times a year and always use the TGV trains. The discount airline that goes from Paris to Nice is not Jet Blue (that's a domestic US airline)but rather EasyJet. When you add in the time to get from Paris to CDG, the 2 hours at the airport for check in and boarding, the flight, baggage collection at Nice, the time from the airport to the city you will find the train is actually just as fast and often faster. It comes down to price and whether you want to see the landscape of France and the hassle factor. Be careful of EasyJet prices. On top of the advertised prices you will pay for boarding passes (cheaper on-line than at the airport but still sizeable) and unless you take only a small carry-on there will be baggage charges that can be very sizeable. Check EasJet website for details on these charges.

Phenry,

Although Menton is one of my favorite Cote D'Azur cities I would never base there. It is at the extreme east end of the Riviera near the Italian border while Nice is very centrally located to all the sites and towns most people want to see. You can go to the west to Cannes by train in about 45 minutes or to Menton to the east in about 45 minutes. Also you can get to St. Paul de Vence by bus in about 45 minutes (depending on the season and the traffic) and you can easily take the mountain route up into the mountains towards Cuneo, Italy. You can get to these mountain villages by train from Ventimiglia, Italy which is close to Menton also but the most charming villages are closer to Nice. Of course if your plans include spending time at the towns on the Italian Riviera Menton would be a good choice. It really is a beautiful town.

Have fun,
Larry J
LarryJ is offline  
Old Mar 28th, 2010, 10:01 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
hi,

one tip, definitely book in advance for every thing you can. the queues in Paris when we went last weekend were endless, apart, strangely, from the Louvre, where they were just very long.

anything that can get you into there, Versailles and Musee D'Orsay without queuing will be worth its weight in gold.
annhig is offline  
Old Mar 28th, 2010, 10:14 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,609
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
For more on Nice you might find my TR helpful: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ern-france.cfm - I enjoyed Nice and surroundings much more than I expected, but I was there early in the year.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Mar 28th, 2010, 10:16 AM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'd also suggest booking the train ahead of time since you know what date you are going - you can save quite a few euros if you get a PREMs fare - offered 90 days out until sold out.
suec1 is online now  
Old Mar 28th, 2010, 11:38 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,282
Received 6 Likes on 1 Post
We have taken the TGV to the Riviera from Paris many times. It's quick and relaxing. If you get a seat on the top deck you do get some pretty views of the countryside.

We've based in Avignon, Aix, and Antibes. IMO Nice would be the best location for a short trip. Our favorite towns to visit were:

Monaco(the Palace and yacht harbor are fabulous)

Eze(absolutely stunning views of the coast in an adorable hillside town)

Cap Ferrat & Beaulieu(for the Villa Kerylos and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild)

Antibes(Loved the beach at Garoupe with renting a chair at the Keller Plage resort at the beginning of the Sentier Tirepoil--a beautiful hike along the rocks on the water)

Villefranche-sur-mer(one of our favorite towns on the sea--next trip we will base ourselves there)

Nice(the market is outstanding, the beaches are rocky)

I would suggest renting a car to pick up at the train station. It's very easy to drive along the Riviera, the views are so spectacular that you will want to stop from time to time, and a car just gives you the freedom to do so. We also found parking everywhere we went was not much of a problem.

IMO, your Paris itinerary is quite good. I agree on the night cruise on the Seine. I'd also add Place Vosges in The Marais just for a stroll or Lunch or coffee.

When you arrive on Sunday maybe go to Luxemborg Gardens and relax in the cafe for lunch or drinks. Sunday really is the best day in the park with music, etc. going on. Then you could do The Marais & Place Vosges on Thurs. & maybe add the Carnavalet(close to Place Vosges). It's a free small museum that is really quite charming. Or maybe add the Rodin on the left bank, small, easy to navigate, and quite memorable.

Have a wonderful trip.
TPAYT is offline  
Old Mar 28th, 2010, 11:39 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I looked at your itinerary for Paris, and even though we are "walk until we drop" travelers and huge art enthusiasts (see below), I'd say you may have gone a bit overboard with tootsie torture on a few days. The problem with walking tours is that they are "stop and walk, stop and walk" and the total on-your-feet time adds up. Add a few museums to that, a few too many sights and well...

When it comes to Paris, please post this thought in your head: You will be coming back.

Best way to safeguard all flexibility options is to follow the advice of at least one of the above poster: buy the Carte Musee for Paris (AND DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT, buy ahead--just buy at a small museum or even at one of the designated Metro station purchase points). Here's the BEST reason to do so: UNLIMITED RE-ENTRY. Example: you are at the Louvre, your feet hurt, and quite simply, you just can't look at one more piece of art. Get the heck out of there. Four hours later or perhaps two days later, come back!

We have often spent an hour on one floor of the d'Orsay, left, and then walked across the Seine to visit one section of the Louvre for an hour or two. The next day or a few days later, we do that in reverse. We found we could "taste" the art better that way, and we'd also be giving ourselves the luxury of exploring the neighborhoods around each at our leisure.

With the pass, except for special exhibits, you can go to the head of the line at the d'Orsay and Louvre and some of the other museums (you can't jump line for the towers of Notre Dame, etc so just read up a bit on what works and what doesn't).

Another flexibility tip is to avoid pre-booking your walking tours. After all, you want to be on YOUR schedule, not theirs. . I have been on three Paris Walks tours over the years and have loved every one of them, but a daily diet can be wearing. I heartily reaffirm an above poster's tip about downloading free Rick Steves MP3 tours. My daughter downloaded his Venice tours to iphone and we used a splitter with our two sets of earphones. We've often used our splitter where we have to rent audioguides, too.

Also: You have a lovely location where you are staying, so I suggest you take advantage of it and "work" your neighborhoood. Do the Paris Walk's "Hemingway's Paris" (or the Rick Steve version)right out the back of your hotel. Explore the Cluny Museum (Lady and the Unicorn), which is downhill as you walk towards Notre Dame from your hotel.

If you are heading over to the Les Halles, Marais area, I actually think the Picasso museum is a better use of art time. Seeing the outside of the Pompidou is more enchanting that visiting the inside--they rearranged all the Pompidou art a couple years ago and made it an unbearable experience.

But thinking of the Pompidou brings to mind one of my favorite modern art museums in Nice. Yeah, bring on the Nicki de Phalle.

Nice is a WONDERFUL central location from which to experience a Riviera art feast, and it is SO doable without a car. We stayed at the Hotel Grimaldi in Nice. With Cote d'Azur museum pass (http://www.infografix.biz/diversweb/cmca/index.html and again, it allows unlimited admission) in hand, we daily hopped trains and buses East/West/North. Everyone in our family seemed to have had a different favorite museum. I think that we saw at least 20 in our 7 days there--and it would not have been hard to have seen more!

As far as train vs plane? Ironic. Years ago, a poster here asked me why in the world I was traveling by train when the plane rates would be so much better. I had never thought of it! He was right!!!! Since we had already spent a few days in Paris (no timing issues; no customs,etc), heading for our plane out of Orly and flying into Nice was easy. At the time, the flight cost us 1/2 of our train travel and saved us a lot of hours and foot time! The Nice airport is a spit from downtown Nice, and taxis were reasonable. So compare your rates and timing and see what works.

Enjoy.
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Old Mar 29th, 2010, 11:39 AM
  #17  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks again to everyone for your helpful advice. We have decided to take the train to Nice.
thursdaysd: I had already read your trip report and found it chock full of useful information thanks!
TPAYT: thanks for your arrival day advice - it sound great - and thanks for your description/comments of the villages!
AllesandraZoe: I agree with you - we are definitely planning on purchasing 4 day Museum Passes. Thanks for your walk suggestions.And I know we may not get to some things on the list & that will be ok too. I'm a little obsessed with having a "plan" just so i have some structure & direction, but will not be devastated if it doesn't come to fruition! As everyone says... we'll be back!
kaybee is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shubha_r
Europe
13
Sep 15th, 2011 04:31 PM
MusicMan
Europe
11
Mar 18th, 2004 03:16 PM
mari
Europe
5
May 18th, 2002 06:01 PM
Jeff
Europe
7
May 5th, 2002 06:16 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -