Madrid, San Sebastian & Barcelona - Lodging and Restaurants
 

My husband and I are traveling to Spain in October - this is a trip of a lifetime; literally. We'd like to stay in very nice, some would consider luxury, hotels on this trip. We like small botique hotels in older parts of cities, but value the experience over anything else.

We are also foodies and would appreciate any suggestions on restaurants as well. We don't like the "new" cuisine with foam, etc. We like to eat where the locals eat. We aren't super late-night people and realize that we won't be able to hang with the locals at 10:30 pm...for a number of reasons.

We ahve flights in to Madrid, staying 3 days , driving to San Sebastian and spend some time in the Rioja wine country on the way (4 days total in that area) then fly or train to Barcelona (3 days). 2 days travel (to and from the States, so 10 days total in country).

We were saving Toledo and the South for another trip; we hope and pray, for another trip in the future.

We also would like guide suggestions for the cities, too, to get a flavor of the cities; probably a 1/2 day of a tour in each. We can do the museums on our own, but have had wonderful experiences with guides in other cities.

Any help will be appreciated.

You're in luck, El Bulli is closed, so no foam.

My favorite restaurant in the world is Arzak, in San Sebastian. Wonderful food, beautiful presentations and the owners (father/daughter) will come an talk to the guests.
Here's their ranking
http://eatocracy.cnn.com/2011/04/18/...staurants-are/.

It's not nearly as expensive as many 'fancy' restaurants in Franch, but it is a Michelin 3 Star restaurant. You need to make reservations in advance, but that would be expected in many starred restaurants.

When I talked with Elena, the daughter, she went on about Alice Waters' cooking and said she has several of Alice's books.

Interesting itinerary, October is late harvest season in the Rioja and Navarra, full of color. You might want to download a copy of Maribel's Guide to Madrid and possibly the País Vasco and the Rioja for a little more information in planning your trip. You should find them useful.

Take a look at Villa Soro in San Sebastián. A 15 min walk to the centre and the famous Parte vieja/Old town, but close to the local feel Gros district with some of the citys best pintxos bars. Might be just what you are looking for. http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/villasoro.en.html

Villa Soro is close to fabulous Arzak, three Michelin stars since the early 90's and constantly on top ten in the world for the past ten years. Fantastic food and laid-back atmosphere. San Sebastián is an absolutely food crazy place and there are 17 Michelin stars with only 180 000 people. But in the city in general, any place being other han dead serious about their food have no chance. Ferran Adria (El Bulli) has said that San Sebastián is the best place to eat in the world "in terms of the average quality of the food, in terms of what you get at any place you happen to walk into". http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandsty...rink.shopping2

Here are some of my favourite restaurants in town outside the Michelin star places.

Cutting edge La Muralla: http://www.restaurantelamuralla.com/

Affordable and friendly La Cueva: http://www.restaurantelacueva.org/

No fuzz and some of the best steaks I've ever had downstairs at Egosari (Sirloin steak cooked in wine with wild mushrooms). Great pintxos bar on the ground floor. http://www.egosari.es/

Traditional Chomín in a wonderful house out in the Ondarreta area, 25 mins walk along the La Concha beach promenade. Have used to live in the pension above the restaurant. An institution in town for decades. http://www.restaurantechomin.info/

When in San Sebastián, don't miss
- the local fish soup: Sopa de pescado a la Donostiarra
- Besugo a la parilla. Grilled sea bream as simple and delicious as it gets. http://www.google.no/search?q=Besugo...w=1600&bih=719
- Jamón de Jabugo, literally the finest cured ham in the world. They serve it everywhere, but traditional La Cepa is a great place to have a plate. Will cost you some 20€ and worth every cent. http://www.barlacepa.com/
- the local white wine Txakolí. http://www.saveur.com/article/Wine-a...s-Coolest-Wine
- and a meal is never complete in the Basque country without a glass of ice cold Pacharán (without ice) to finnish it off: http://spanishfood.about.com/od/drinks/a/pacharan.htm

AND, most important, you have to do some pintxos crawls. There are no more fun, laid-back and affordable way to have a food experience never to forget. You can't do much wrong in San Sebastián, and the best is perhaps to just go whereever the night leads you, but here are some suggested routes.
http://www.todopintxos.com/ruta/ruta.php

Here are some of my favourite pintxos bars:
La Cuchara de San Telmo: http://11870.com/pro/la-cuchara-san-telmo
Goiz-Argi: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar..._bar&id_bar=17
Ganbara: http://www.ganbarajatetxea.com/presentation
Astelehena: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar...1&do=vista_bar
Zeruko: http://www.barzeruko.com/barzeruko_cocina.html

In the Gros district:
Garbola: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar...3&do=vista_bar
Bodega Donostiarra: http://www.bodegadonostiarra.com/
Bergara: http://www.todopintxos.com/bares/bar...6&do=vista_bar

Here are two dining reports I wrote after taking two trips to Spain last winter; one deals with Madrid and the other with Barcelona. I did not notice any foam.


http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...k-in-spain.cfm

The Barcelona report does not discuss my dinner at Cinc Sentits, which was probably the best of the week or so I spent in that city; you must reserve ahead for that, and for all most of the more well-known restaurants.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...inter-2011.cfm


I'd also refer you to chowhound.com; I also post on that forum and there are many others very knowledgeable about the dining scene in Barcelona and San Sebastian.




For a splurge hotel in Madrid, you might want to consider The Ritz. It is not a huge hotel and the level of personal service is superb. I don't usually stay in hotels on that level but I was very glad that we did so on that trip. Not to be soon forgotten!

For a unique and personal dining experience in Barcelona, try Restaurante Druida, www.restaurantedruida.com, near Sant Antoni. The chef/owner is enthusiastic and accessible and his preparations are fabulous. We made the mistake of ordering a la carte. Everything was great, but we were left to admire the set menu items served at the next table.

We also really like Cafe de l'Academia, in the heart of the Gothic Quarter. It's on a charming small square ad you can eat inside or out, depending on the weather. They do not have a web site; phone is +34 933 19 82 53. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with typical hours, i.e. dinner starts at 9 p.m. We show up about 1 p.m. and wait for them to open at lunch.

"and a meal is never complete in the Basque country without a glass of ice cold Pacharán (without ice) to finnish it off"

A lot of people in Navarra still make their own Patxarán, and some will take it over ice, but I would never take a cold Patxarán as Liza and Tony suggest (About.com), at least not a good quality Patxarán.

As noted, the Villa Soro is the nicest small boutique hotel in San Sebastian-Donostia, but if you can't get a room there, the 5-star Maria Cristina will be open following its year-long renovation and should be available. The other choice would be a sea view room in the 4-star Londres, which sits on La Concha beach.

In Madrid you might like the AC Palacio del Retiro or the NH Palacio de Tepa. You get Marriott Rewards at the Palacio del Retiro.

In Barcelona I'd look at the hotels El Palace, Majestic, Alma, 1898 or El Palauet, depending on your style.

Another recommendation for www.maribelsguides.com. Print them out for each city or atea, very helpful.