Madrid areas to stay
Feb 7th, 2023, 10:41 AM
#21
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Just a note about the current Madrid restaurant reservation situation these days (yes, even in la cuesta de enero—reservations are absolutely essential !!
Time and time again, we witnessed people getting turned down both at lunch and dinner when showing up without reservations. This is particularly essential on Friday nights, all day Saturday and Sunday for lunch.
Because we had been dining out for lunch and dinner for days on end, we made the huge mistake (knowing that it probably would be a mistake) of leaving our Saturday lunch free. Nope, in Old Madrid, in Salamanca, in Malasaña and in Retiro, where we now do most of our dining, everything, and I do mean everything, was fully booked, even at the high tables at the bar, which had also been reserved.
Some tapas bars during covid eliminated their standing room space at the bar and instead installed high top tables for two, all along the bar, reservable, of course. It cuts down on the crowds, makes dining less hectic, makes it more predictable for the owners, but it also makes reservations necessary. And some restaurants are turning tables, which before covid was not at all the custom, allowing 90 minutes for dining (Castelados in Retiro) for example.
When wandering around La Latina looking for a place to have a simple beer, let alone lunch, the bars on Saturday afternoon were jammed to the rafters, no room even standing at the bar. Same situation in Retiro on last Sunday’s warm and sunny 60 degree afternoon. Our favorite gastro bars were heaving at the seams.
Just a cautionary tale.
When in Madrid and planning to eat out, especially at the most popular places known well by locals, please reserve in advance.
Also in winter people are dining earlier in the evening, sitting down to dinner sometimes between 8-8:30 rather than at 10.
That could be because of the new trend in turning tables, with 2 seatings per evening, or the early dining habit that was formed during the pandemic when restaurants for a while were forced to close very, very early for Spain standards to get everyone home by curfew.
Time and time again, we witnessed people getting turned down both at lunch and dinner when showing up without reservations. This is particularly essential on Friday nights, all day Saturday and Sunday for lunch.
Because we had been dining out for lunch and dinner for days on end, we made the huge mistake (knowing that it probably would be a mistake) of leaving our Saturday lunch free. Nope, in Old Madrid, in Salamanca, in Malasaña and in Retiro, where we now do most of our dining, everything, and I do mean everything, was fully booked, even at the high tables at the bar, which had also been reserved.
Some tapas bars during covid eliminated their standing room space at the bar and instead installed high top tables for two, all along the bar, reservable, of course. It cuts down on the crowds, makes dining less hectic, makes it more predictable for the owners, but it also makes reservations necessary. And some restaurants are turning tables, which before covid was not at all the custom, allowing 90 minutes for dining (Castelados in Retiro) for example.
When wandering around La Latina looking for a place to have a simple beer, let alone lunch, the bars on Saturday afternoon were jammed to the rafters, no room even standing at the bar. Same situation in Retiro on last Sunday’s warm and sunny 60 degree afternoon. Our favorite gastro bars were heaving at the seams.
Just a cautionary tale.
When in Madrid and planning to eat out, especially at the most popular places known well by locals, please reserve in advance.
Also in winter people are dining earlier in the evening, sitting down to dinner sometimes between 8-8:30 rather than at 10.
That could be because of the new trend in turning tables, with 2 seatings per evening, or the early dining habit that was formed during the pandemic when restaurants for a while were forced to close very, very early for Spain standards to get everyone home by curfew.
Feb 7th, 2023, 10:58 AM
#22
Marina - by complete coincidence I also stayed at the Catalonia Las Cortes in 2019 and liked it a lot. Walking distance of so many places and lots of interesting restaurants and bars nearby. The breakfasts are pretty dear but the complimentary supper time buffet is useful if you've taken advantage of a decent "menu de dia" earlier in the day and don't want much at night.
Feb 7th, 2023, 11:29 AM
#23
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We loved the Salamanca area and walking around Retiro park. We went to Madrid and Seville, and I fell in love with Madrid. It's such a beautiful city.
Maribel, I read a lot of your posts before we went: so helpful!
Have you ever eaten at Restaurante Sacha? It was the best meal of our trip. We had a late lunch there the day we arrived.
Maribel, I read a lot of your posts before we went: so helpful!
Have you ever eaten at Restaurante Sacha? It was the best meal of our trip. We had a late lunch there the day we arrived.
Feb 7th, 2023, 11:55 AM
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Kureiff,
Í´ve read all of your dining reports from your European trips and you really know how to choose them! I LOVE Sacha, and so do the professional critics. He’s a chef’s chef and runs one of the best and most beloved bistrots in town. He’s Basque, so of course, his cooking is outstanding. He doesn’t claim for glory, for Michelin stars, he just is always there manning the stoves with love. I just saw him in person at Madrid Fusion last month. I’m more star struck with chefs than some are with Hollywood actors or rock stars.
For food lovers (like you), I always recommend the taxi ride up to his restaurant in the northern business district for a great dining experience. And in summer, one can dine in the garden.
Í´ve read all of your dining reports from your European trips and you really know how to choose them! I LOVE Sacha, and so do the professional critics. He’s a chef’s chef and runs one of the best and most beloved bistrots in town. He’s Basque, so of course, his cooking is outstanding. He doesn’t claim for glory, for Michelin stars, he just is always there manning the stoves with love. I just saw him in person at Madrid Fusion last month. I’m more star struck with chefs than some are with Hollywood actors or rock stars.
For food lovers (like you), I always recommend the taxi ride up to his restaurant in the northern business district for a great dining experience. And in summer, one can dine in the garden.
Feb 7th, 2023, 12:06 PM
#25
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Kureiff,
Í´ve read all of your dining reports from your European trips and you really know how to choose them! I LOVE Sacha, and so do the professional critics. He’s a chef’s chef and runs one of the best and most beloved bistrots in town. He’s Basque, so of course, his cooking is outstanding. He doesn’t claim for glory, for Michelin stars, he just is always there manning the stoves with love. I just saw him in person at Madrid Fusion last month. I’m more star struck with chefs than some are with Hollywood actors or rock stars.
For food lovers (like you), I always recommend the taxi ride up to his restaurant in the northern business district for a great dining experience. And in summer, one can dine in the garden.
Í´ve read all of your dining reports from your European trips and you really know how to choose them! I LOVE Sacha, and so do the professional critics. He’s a chef’s chef and runs one of the best and most beloved bistrots in town. He’s Basque, so of course, his cooking is outstanding. He doesn’t claim for glory, for Michelin stars, he just is always there manning the stoves with love. I just saw him in person at Madrid Fusion last month. I’m more star struck with chefs than some are with Hollywood actors or rock stars.
For food lovers (like you), I always recommend the taxi ride up to his restaurant in the northern business district for a great dining experience. And in summer, one can dine in the garden.
Feb 7th, 2023, 12:11 PM
#26
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Ekscrunchy,
If you’re reading this, put Sacha on your restaurant list! My go-too, dependable professional restaurant critic, Carlos Maribona, puts Sacha as number 5 of his this year’s best restaurants in Madrid list.
https://abcblogs.abc.es/gastronomia/...drid-2022.html
If you’re reading this, put Sacha on your restaurant list! My go-too, dependable professional restaurant critic, Carlos Maribona, puts Sacha as number 5 of his this year’s best restaurants in Madrid list.
https://abcblogs.abc.es/gastronomia/...drid-2022.html
Feb 8th, 2023, 08:23 AM
#27
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Dear Maribel, and others....Of course I am tuned into this thread! Glued to it!!
Very interesting to read of the difficulty of dining w/o advance booking. Just this week I've begun to plan for my 3 nights in Madrid next month. I fear it will be far too short a time! I already have more restaurants on my list than I have time for, and now Sacha has once again come to the forefront.
My stay is complicated because it spans a Sunday and Monday, with many closures.
Here is my list (all comments will be welcomed!) but will have to cut a few; I take breakfast in the hotel, so normally would not have much appetite for lunch. Thought I might try the tortilla at CASA DANI, but will their market outpost be closed? I'd never heard of it before, and have never visited Mercado de la Paz, so certainly will plan a market visit to stock up before heading home to USA.
?TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE (saturday dinner, day of arrival)
?SALA DES DESPIECES (Sunday late lunch)
?MANDUCA DE AZAGRA (Monday dinner)
So I need to eliminate one to dine at Sacha, or else eat 2 big meals on Monday.
I will be dining solo and would prefer low key..nothing very formal..
Very interesting to read of the difficulty of dining w/o advance booking. Just this week I've begun to plan for my 3 nights in Madrid next month. I fear it will be far too short a time! I already have more restaurants on my list than I have time for, and now Sacha has once again come to the forefront.
My stay is complicated because it spans a Sunday and Monday, with many closures.
Here is my list (all comments will be welcomed!) but will have to cut a few; I take breakfast in the hotel, so normally would not have much appetite for lunch. Thought I might try the tortilla at CASA DANI, but will their market outpost be closed? I'd never heard of it before, and have never visited Mercado de la Paz, so certainly will plan a market visit to stock up before heading home to USA.
?TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE (saturday dinner, day of arrival)
?SALA DES DESPIECES (Sunday late lunch)
?MANDUCA DE AZAGRA (Monday dinner)
So I need to eliminate one to dine at Sacha, or else eat 2 big meals on Monday.
I will be dining solo and would prefer low key..nothing very formal..
Feb 8th, 2023, 09:06 AM
#28
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Hi eks,
Breakfast at your hotel will be wonderful. Forget the tortilla at CASA DANI for a while as all 4 outlets in the market had to close because of a salmonella outbreak that affected over 100 diners. Sadly, we don’t know when they´ll reopen again.
We went to the market on Monday morning for goodies to take home. If you want a piscolabis, we go to the back of the market to Oh, Dèlice Bistro for an oyster and a glass of wine. This stand with low tables also makes great rice dishes, for another day.
As to which to omit, I would say TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE. Why? Non-regulars don’t get the collegial treatment that regulars do, and one can spend a small fortune. Recent reviews from non-Spaniards haven’t been great, although Maribona loves it (yet, he’s a friend of the house, obviously). Also foreign visitors have been pressed to leave a generous tip, which goes against the norms of tipping in Spain, and annoys me greatly. We went to an Andalusian place recently and on the bill there was a note in ENGLISH, ¨service not included¨, which immediately took said restaurant off my list.
On Monday we went to SALA DE DESPIECE and had a great time! Took many videos. We sat at the bar and watched the action. There are a couple of 2 tops to the side but those diners miss all the action. We had seen the episode of ¨Somebody Feel Phil¨ and had to give it a try. Don't miss the ¨Rolex¨, the artichoke with truffles, the flor de calabacín, the mejillones Roca finished with palo cortado (spectacular!), the chuletón (a tartare) and the helado de pimienta wrapped in white cotton candy, just delicious. The staff advises diners well. Most diners ordered the 45 euro degustation but we went a la carte
6 small plates are the norm. We went to the SDD on Ponzano 11
If you want a place for a piscolabis before, we go to Arima Basque Gastronomy up the street, same side, for a vermouth and a gilda at the bar. Calle Ponzano is a bit of a construction site now as they are widening the sidewalks but everything will be open.
The dining situation has really changed post covid. We tried to get into Laredo on a Friday night, but no go, not even at the bar, which was packed to the rafters! All of our reserved restaurants sent us a reminder the day before, asking us to reconfirm. We dare not go anywhere without a reservation, as if we don’t reserve, we’re out of luck.
Breakfast at your hotel will be wonderful. Forget the tortilla at CASA DANI for a while as all 4 outlets in the market had to close because of a salmonella outbreak that affected over 100 diners. Sadly, we don’t know when they´ll reopen again.
We went to the market on Monday morning for goodies to take home. If you want a piscolabis, we go to the back of the market to Oh, Dèlice Bistro for an oyster and a glass of wine. This stand with low tables also makes great rice dishes, for another day.
As to which to omit, I would say TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE. Why? Non-regulars don’t get the collegial treatment that regulars do, and one can spend a small fortune. Recent reviews from non-Spaniards haven’t been great, although Maribona loves it (yet, he’s a friend of the house, obviously). Also foreign visitors have been pressed to leave a generous tip, which goes against the norms of tipping in Spain, and annoys me greatly. We went to an Andalusian place recently and on the bill there was a note in ENGLISH, ¨service not included¨, which immediately took said restaurant off my list.
On Monday we went to SALA DE DESPIECE and had a great time! Took many videos. We sat at the bar and watched the action. There are a couple of 2 tops to the side but those diners miss all the action. We had seen the episode of ¨Somebody Feel Phil¨ and had to give it a try. Don't miss the ¨Rolex¨, the artichoke with truffles, the flor de calabacín, the mejillones Roca finished with palo cortado (spectacular!), the chuletón (a tartare) and the helado de pimienta wrapped in white cotton candy, just delicious. The staff advises diners well. Most diners ordered the 45 euro degustation but we went a la carte
6 small plates are the norm. We went to the SDD on Ponzano 11
If you want a place for a piscolabis before, we go to Arima Basque Gastronomy up the street, same side, for a vermouth and a gilda at the bar. Calle Ponzano is a bit of a construction site now as they are widening the sidewalks but everything will be open.
The dining situation has really changed post covid. We tried to get into Laredo on a Friday night, but no go, not even at the bar, which was packed to the rafters! All of our reserved restaurants sent us a reminder the day before, asking us to reconfirm. We dare not go anywhere without a reservation, as if we don’t reserve, we’re out of luck.
Last edited by Maribel; Feb 8th, 2023 at 09:09 AM.
Feb 9th, 2023, 01:17 PM
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So disappointed to hear about Casa Dani. We also watch “Somebody feed Phil” and my husband was very excited to try it out when we are there early May. Who knows by then they will probably be up and running again. I really love reading other people’s questions to see what info I can pick up from the responses. It sounds like post covid( if you can say that ) dining is less spontaneous. We will be in Madrid about 4 days and I wonder if anyone has restaurant suggestions for us so we can get on the reservation thing. I wasn’t expecting that. We are staying at Only You boutique so a couple near there for great cocktails and or food.
Near
the Royal Palace
las Letras area
Thyssen Bornemisza
Liria Palace
I will definitely also go back through this thread and check out some of the places that seemed to excite everyone, but wondered if there were some more specific to the areas we’ll be wandering on a daily basis.
It seems we eat delicious food less often than we’d like to on vacation because it’s always a case of
“We’ve been exploring for hours. I’m starving. What’s open and around here?”
As always we appreciate the guidance of those of you with countless days of travel under your belts.
Near
the Royal Palace
las Letras area
Thyssen Bornemisza
Liria Palace
I will definitely also go back through this thread and check out some of the places that seemed to excite everyone, but wondered if there were some more specific to the areas we’ll be wandering on a daily basis.
It seems we eat delicious food less often than we’d like to on vacation because it’s always a case of
“We’ve been exploring for hours. I’m starving. What’s open and around here?”
As always we appreciate the guidance of those of you with countless days of travel under your belts.
Feb 9th, 2023, 03:08 PM
#30
<<“We’ve been exploring for hours. I’m starving. What’s open and around here?”
As always we appreciate the guidance of those of you with countless days of travel under your belts.>>
For those moments, I can definitely recommend The Fork app. You can see what's available in the area you are in, check the menu, any offers and book a table. plenty of choice too.
As always we appreciate the guidance of those of you with countless days of travel under your belts.>>
For those moments, I can definitely recommend The Fork app. You can see what's available in the area you are in, check the menu, any offers and book a table. plenty of choice too.
Feb 9th, 2023, 04:31 PM
#31
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“Calle Ponzano is a bit of a construction site now as they are widening the sidewalks but everything will be open.
“ The dining situation has really changed post covid. We tried to get into Laredo on a Friday night, but no go, not even at the bar, which was packed to the rafters! All of our reserved restaurants sent us a reminder the day before, asking us to reconfirm. We dare not go anywhere without a reservation, as if we don’t reserve, we’re out of luck.”
I walked to Ponzano…after the performance at Teatros del Canal. It was a warm Saturday night…the places were packed with, what looked to me, mostly very young crowed.
Hoping to get a spot without reservation, I showed up very early at Arzábal and la Catapa.
It was mid week and I was alone. Got a seat at the bar !
“ The dining situation has really changed post covid. We tried to get into Laredo on a Friday night, but no go, not even at the bar, which was packed to the rafters! All of our reserved restaurants sent us a reminder the day before, asking us to reconfirm. We dare not go anywhere without a reservation, as if we don’t reserve, we’re out of luck.”
I walked to Ponzano…after the performance at Teatros del Canal. It was a warm Saturday night…the places were packed with, what looked to me, mostly very young crowed.
Hoping to get a spot without reservation, I showed up very early at Arzábal and la Catapa.
It was mid week and I was alone. Got a seat at the bar !
Feb 11th, 2023, 12:04 AM
#32
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Maribel, there's a new SDD2 (Sala de Despiece 2) at 8 Virgen de los Peligros St. I haven't been there yet.
https://english.saladedespiece.com/espacios/
https://english.saladedespiece.com/espacios/
Feb 20th, 2023, 05:06 PM
#33
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Maribel, I’m wondering about dining reservations for April. How far in advance do you suggest trying to make reservations? I noticed quite a few of the dining recommendations do not have websites or if they do, there is not a reservation option via the site. The Fork had a restaurant I want to try, but only had lunch reservations. Generally, do you wait to make phone reservations once in the country?
Feb 21st, 2023, 06:05 AM
#34
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I certainly do not have the knowledge of Maribel when it comes to Spain, but I will be in Madrid next month and have already booked a few tables. If there is no actual reservation option on the restaurant's site, you might try e-mailing them or, if it is an important reservation for you, phoning from your home keeping in mind the time difference. I often request that my hotel book the table for me. Unless these are "top" tables, it is unlikely that you would have a problem with availability this far in advance. Some places will not be taking bookings now for April. I came across one restaurant that books only 2 weeks in advance.
Which places are you having a problem with booking? Maybe we can help!! Surely Maribel will have the answers!!
Which places are you having a problem with booking? Maybe we can help!! Surely Maribel will have the answers!!
Feb 21st, 2023, 11:31 AM
#35
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EK, thank you! I’ll start emailing for reservations and ask hotels for help should I not be able to secure reservations via email or by calling directly. One restaurant that I’d like to specifically book is LaAzotea/Barajas (after reading all the reviews). The website is under construction so I tried The Fork and only lunch reservation times came up. I’ll give the restaurant a call and see what I can arrange. We’re staying at an AirBnB in Sevilla, but I will ask the hostess for help if I run into trouble.
Thank you, again for your suggestions!!! and… keep the reports coming!!!
Thank you, again for your suggestions!!! and… keep the reports coming!!!
Feb 21st, 2023, 09:57 PM
#36
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Coolrooms Palacio de Atocha has the largest rooms in town.
https://coolrooms.com/palaciodeatocha/en/
https://coolrooms.com/palaciodeatocha/en/
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