MADRID-ARANDA DEL DUERO-BURGOS- (??)
Jul 2nd, 2016, 06:48 AM
#41
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Robert: While I await response from Gran Hotel Durango, I found another rural guesthouse outside the town of Durango that looks nice: Garaiko Landetxea So perhaps that will be a good choice for the night prior to the lunch at Etxebarri:
http://www.garaikolandetxea.com/
My new task in research will be to find a good spot to eat near Durango, if any of these two bookings is confirmed.
http://www.garaikolandetxea.com/
My new task in research will be to find a good spot to eat near Durango, if any of these two bookings is confirmed.
Jul 2nd, 2016, 09:15 AM
#42
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The town of Durango isn't particularly attractive to us at all, given the heavy industry all around it (Franco's scourge).
That said, the Gairako Landetxea is quite rural, and I'm not sure you want an agroturismo that rural.
Would you want to book two nights and just stay one at the Hotel Urune or the other in Muxia, which would give you greater "creature comforts" and a real hotel with more services?
With Etxebarri being proclaimed #10 restaurant in the world by the World's Best list 2016, all the nearby lodgings will have little vacancy.
The Castillo de Arteaga, 19th century Neo Gothic and a Relais Chateaux, which is gorgeous, in the Urdaibai, near the Painted Forest, unfortunately is showing no rooms for the last Saturday of October. But they may have a cancellation. We've sent friends there and have dined there. Fine female chef. It's our luxury choice for the Urdaibai. But no rooms for your Sat. night.
If you do receive a response from the Hotel Durango and take a room there for convenicence, I would highly recommend--
for gorgeous scenery and really fine food, that you drive for 15 minutes to Amorebieta up in the hills (hamlet of Boroa) to the wonderful Restaurante Boroa (1 Michelin star) for a fantastic meal, with gorgeous views.
We had a wonderful lunch there recently with our Fodorite friend, Mikelg, and this Basque farmhouse is simply gorgeous with stunning views of the countryside. Fine wine list to boot. Mikel always takes us to the very best places. He's the ultimate great Basque guide.
Boroa is a food lovers paradise and quite reasonably priced, given the high quality and service.
www.boroa.com
That said, the Gairako Landetxea is quite rural, and I'm not sure you want an agroturismo that rural.
Would you want to book two nights and just stay one at the Hotel Urune or the other in Muxia, which would give you greater "creature comforts" and a real hotel with more services?
With Etxebarri being proclaimed #10 restaurant in the world by the World's Best list 2016, all the nearby lodgings will have little vacancy.
The Castillo de Arteaga, 19th century Neo Gothic and a Relais Chateaux, which is gorgeous, in the Urdaibai, near the Painted Forest, unfortunately is showing no rooms for the last Saturday of October. But they may have a cancellation. We've sent friends there and have dined there. Fine female chef. It's our luxury choice for the Urdaibai. But no rooms for your Sat. night.
If you do receive a response from the Hotel Durango and take a room there for convenicence, I would highly recommend--
for gorgeous scenery and really fine food, that you drive for 15 minutes to Amorebieta up in the hills (hamlet of Boroa) to the wonderful Restaurante Boroa (1 Michelin star) for a fantastic meal, with gorgeous views.
We had a wonderful lunch there recently with our Fodorite friend, Mikelg, and this Basque farmhouse is simply gorgeous with stunning views of the countryside. Fine wine list to boot. Mikel always takes us to the very best places. He's the ultimate great Basque guide.
Boroa is a food lovers paradise and quite reasonably priced, given the high quality and service.
www.boroa.com
Jul 3rd, 2016, 03:27 AM
#43
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Robert thank you again. I had never considered that idea--taking then room for two nights and staying one. But the Urune is reasonable enough to allow me to do so..I've sent off an e-mail to the owner and it looks as if they do have space for those dates.
Never did receive a response from Gran Hotel Durango and your comments about the less-than-beautiful surroundings nixed that idea in any case.
So it looks as if the trip plans are shaping up. I have only to contact the hotel Castilla Termal, near Mannix, as well as Burgos and Bilbao. Will do in the next day or so.
I hope that both of you are relishing your time in the Pays Basque. I wish you the very best.
Never did receive a response from Gran Hotel Durango and your comments about the less-than-beautiful surroundings nixed that idea in any case.
So it looks as if the trip plans are shaping up. I have only to contact the hotel Castilla Termal, near Mannix, as well as Burgos and Bilbao. Will do in the next day or so.
I hope that both of you are relishing your time in the Pays Basque. I wish you the very best.
Jul 3rd, 2016, 09:44 AM
#44
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Hi ekscrunchy,
We stopped by the María Cristina today to see if it was still in tip top shape for you, and it's gleaming, as expected. The Helene Darroze pop up is located in the main dining room. We didn't have lunch (went to her Le Salon d'Helene in Paris once), but it will be finished Oct. 30 before your arrival. The Dry Martini bar makes great GTs.
You might want to put Antonio Bar (Calle Bergara 3) and Zazpi (San Marcial 7) on your pintxos tour, as they're within a very easy walk of the MC, both within a block of each other, and don't get the avalanche of tourists that you'll now find in La Parte Vieja. They're contemporary, creative, and highly recommended by our friend who's a wine/food guide and teaches at the Basque Culinary Institute. Both closed on Sun. (but I don't think you'll be in Donostia on Sun?)
Today (Sun) we hit 4-
Hidalgo 56 at Colón in Gros for escalope de foie con torrija de melón (fabulous!) and raviollis cremosos de setas a la crema (excellent). Table seating inside and 4 outdoor tables and a list of dessert pintxos.
Bergara Bar at General Artetxe 8 in Gros for revuelto de pimientos and hojaldre de foie con uvas (both excellent). Bench seating here and 4 outdoor tables.
It and the now closed Aloña Berri created the haute miniature cuisine movement here.
Borda Berri on Fermín Calbetón in Lo Viejo for risotto "Puntalete" de queso Idiazábal (fantastic!). Tip: we arrived at 12:30 and had it pleasantly to ourselves.
It and La Cuchara de San Telmo have totally bare counters- no groaning board of cold pintxos. Everything is created al momento in the kitchen.
Ganbara on San Gerónimo in Lo Viejo for gamba y espárrago rebozados (with great mayonesa) and tartaleta de txangurro (spicy). Tip: get here early when they open at noon
Our favorite Casa Urola was closed for vacation.
I did look at the Booking reviews of Gran Hotel Durango and with only an 8.0 guest rating, there will be issues. Our usual cut off point for consideration for a hotel is an 8.4 Booking rating, and we prefer one with an 8.7 or above if price/location are right, as we know we'll be happy with it. Although the Gran Hotel Durango jr. suites look updated, the baths seem old style.
We'll try to look at the Castilla Termal on our way to Madrid, as we need to know it. Hotel infrastructure in the Ribera del Duero, other than Le Domaine, leaves a great deal to be desired so we're hoping it's ok.
Hope you are set with the Iturregi in Getaria.
At the Carlton we recommend the superior rooms or jr. suites.
Now, have fun filling in the blanks for dining!
We stopped by the María Cristina today to see if it was still in tip top shape for you, and it's gleaming, as expected. The Helene Darroze pop up is located in the main dining room. We didn't have lunch (went to her Le Salon d'Helene in Paris once), but it will be finished Oct. 30 before your arrival. The Dry Martini bar makes great GTs.
You might want to put Antonio Bar (Calle Bergara 3) and Zazpi (San Marcial 7) on your pintxos tour, as they're within a very easy walk of the MC, both within a block of each other, and don't get the avalanche of tourists that you'll now find in La Parte Vieja. They're contemporary, creative, and highly recommended by our friend who's a wine/food guide and teaches at the Basque Culinary Institute. Both closed on Sun. (but I don't think you'll be in Donostia on Sun?)
Today (Sun) we hit 4-
Hidalgo 56 at Colón in Gros for escalope de foie con torrija de melón (fabulous!) and raviollis cremosos de setas a la crema (excellent). Table seating inside and 4 outdoor tables and a list of dessert pintxos.
Bergara Bar at General Artetxe 8 in Gros for revuelto de pimientos and hojaldre de foie con uvas (both excellent). Bench seating here and 4 outdoor tables.
It and the now closed Aloña Berri created the haute miniature cuisine movement here.
Borda Berri on Fermín Calbetón in Lo Viejo for risotto "Puntalete" de queso Idiazábal (fantastic!). Tip: we arrived at 12:30 and had it pleasantly to ourselves.
It and La Cuchara de San Telmo have totally bare counters- no groaning board of cold pintxos. Everything is created al momento in the kitchen.
Ganbara on San Gerónimo in Lo Viejo for gamba y espárrago rebozados (with great mayonesa) and tartaleta de txangurro (spicy). Tip: get here early when they open at noon
Our favorite Casa Urola was closed for vacation.
I did look at the Booking reviews of Gran Hotel Durango and with only an 8.0 guest rating, there will be issues. Our usual cut off point for consideration for a hotel is an 8.4 Booking rating, and we prefer one with an 8.7 or above if price/location are right, as we know we'll be happy with it. Although the Gran Hotel Durango jr. suites look updated, the baths seem old style.
We'll try to look at the Castilla Termal on our way to Madrid, as we need to know it. Hotel infrastructure in the Ribera del Duero, other than Le Domaine, leaves a great deal to be desired so we're hoping it's ok.
Hope you are set with the Iturregi in Getaria.
At the Carlton we recommend the superior rooms or jr. suites.
Now, have fun filling in the blanks for dining!
Jul 3rd, 2016, 11:51 AM
#45
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Robert, so incredible for us to have a "couple on the ground!"
Have requested the junior suite at the Carlton ( no response yet.)
I have just finished reading Maribel's amazing, amazing (yes doubly amazing) guide to the area. Great to know that Maribel does private trip planning for all of Spain and Portugal. What a great resource, that I learned only through participating on Fodors!
http://www.iberiantraveler.com/
http://www.maribelsguides.com/mg_san_sebastian.pdf
Wrote to Etxanobe for a booking for the Sunday late lunch. (will arrive Bilbao on Sunday and depart on Tuesday for Lisbon)
Also attempted booking two nights at Urola but their site is a bit tricky in that they want bank transfer; always prefer to write directly en vez de using booking.com. Hope to have response from them soon. And will inquire about dining at Remanetxe evening of 29 October.
You are such an immense help; please note that this New York person is most indebted to you both.
Have requested the junior suite at the Carlton ( no response yet.)
I have just finished reading Maribel's amazing, amazing (yes doubly amazing) guide to the area. Great to know that Maribel does private trip planning for all of Spain and Portugal. What a great resource, that I learned only through participating on Fodors!
http://www.iberiantraveler.com/
http://www.maribelsguides.com/mg_san_sebastian.pdf
Wrote to Etxanobe for a booking for the Sunday late lunch. (will arrive Bilbao on Sunday and depart on Tuesday for Lisbon)
Also attempted booking two nights at Urola but their site is a bit tricky in that they want bank transfer; always prefer to write directly en vez de using booking.com. Hope to have response from them soon. And will inquire about dining at Remanetxe evening of 29 October.
You are such an immense help; please note that this New York person is most indebted to you both.
Jul 4th, 2016, 09:07 AM
#46
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Hi ekscrunchy,
Speaking of Etxanobe, our Fodorite friend, mikelg, arranged a wonderful tapas dinner for us on the night after our Boroa lunch at a charming, newly re-opened spot in the Casco Viejo-- Los Fueros Restaurante de Tapas.
http://losfueros.com
It reminded us of a Parisian bistro (it dates from 1878, the oldest eatery in Bilbao) and is decorated with simply beautiful tiles.
The chef, Paul Ibarra, was the chef of Etxanobe but now does I+D for Fernando Canales and his group. He redesigned the space as a casual place where he would choose to dine with friends.
Mikel chose it for us because we could order as much or as little as we wanted, and because they really know their wines.
He urged us to try the "fualimotxo", a velvety mousse of foie with a topping of a jellied "kalimotxo" with some little drops of Schwepps de naranja. It worked!
Desserts are equally fun, especially the "txakolimisú", a tiramisú sponge cake soaked in txakolí.
You can see some of the dishes here-
http://www.enekosukaldari.com/restau...fueros-bilbao/
If you're too full from your Sunday lunch at Etxanobe, you might try it on Monday.
This was a great find, thanks to mikelg.
About Urune, did you try on Booking.com? We prefer to write directly as well, but it appears that booking.com doesn't require the wire transfer (I didn't go all the way through the booking process though). Sometimes we do use booking.com to avoid that extra cost. If we do go through Booking (as we just did in Albi and Uzés) we do email the innkeeper to introduce ourselves.
(¡Algún día tenemos que coincidir, en algún lugar!)
Speaking of Etxanobe, our Fodorite friend, mikelg, arranged a wonderful tapas dinner for us on the night after our Boroa lunch at a charming, newly re-opened spot in the Casco Viejo-- Los Fueros Restaurante de Tapas.
http://losfueros.com
It reminded us of a Parisian bistro (it dates from 1878, the oldest eatery in Bilbao) and is decorated with simply beautiful tiles.
The chef, Paul Ibarra, was the chef of Etxanobe but now does I+D for Fernando Canales and his group. He redesigned the space as a casual place where he would choose to dine with friends.
Mikel chose it for us because we could order as much or as little as we wanted, and because they really know their wines.
He urged us to try the "fualimotxo", a velvety mousse of foie with a topping of a jellied "kalimotxo" with some little drops of Schwepps de naranja. It worked!
Desserts are equally fun, especially the "txakolimisú", a tiramisú sponge cake soaked in txakolí.
You can see some of the dishes here-
http://www.enekosukaldari.com/restau...fueros-bilbao/
If you're too full from your Sunday lunch at Etxanobe, you might try it on Monday.
This was a great find, thanks to mikelg.
About Urune, did you try on Booking.com? We prefer to write directly as well, but it appears that booking.com doesn't require the wire transfer (I didn't go all the way through the booking process though). Sometimes we do use booking.com to avoid that extra cost. If we do go through Booking (as we just did in Albi and Uzés) we do email the innkeeper to introduce ourselves.
(¡Algún día tenemos que coincidir, en algún lugar!)
Jul 5th, 2016, 01:54 PM
#47
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Yes to Los Fueros!!! Mil gracias, yet again.
Sadly we have planned only two nights, Sunday and Monday, in Bilbao, but hope to lunch at Etxanobe on Sunday and then dine at Los Fueros (and stop at a few other spots as well) on Monday. Bilbao sounds like it would be an ideal city to rent an apartment for a month or so.
Hotel Urune has been magnificent in flexibility, and have booked the two nights with them directly as you suggested, with credit card as confirmation.
And yes, have confirmation for Getaria at Itureggi.
http://www.hoteliturregi.com/eng/
Sadly we have planned only two nights, Sunday and Monday, in Bilbao, but hope to lunch at Etxanobe on Sunday and then dine at Los Fueros (and stop at a few other spots as well) on Monday. Bilbao sounds like it would be an ideal city to rent an apartment for a month or so.
Hotel Urune has been magnificent in flexibility, and have booked the two nights with them directly as you suggested, with credit card as confirmation.
And yes, have confirmation for Getaria at Itureggi.
http://www.hoteliturregi.com/eng/
Jul 9th, 2016, 01:23 PM
#48
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Robert and all who know Bilbao: We only have two days in the city and are not usually able to eat both a large lunch and another elaborate dinner.
I have requested a lunch table on the second day (Monday) at Etxanobe. So that night will be pinxtos only.
Sunday presents an enviable, but difficult choice: There are SO many tempting restaurants! (Quite a number are closed for Sunday dinner, however, including Restaurant Mina which looks very good, but it tasting menu only. I prefer food that is somewhat creative.
Knowing all that, Robert would you still recommend Los Fueros? (Those famous shrimp look out of this world!) Los Fueros is open for both Sunday dinner and lunch, and I am thinking dinner might be better to book, as many places will be closed then (including Mina) so perhaps it is best to reserve Sunday afternoon for pinto hopping, and have dinner at Los Fueros. (I'd hate to have lunch there and then be confronted with dead streets in the evening)
I'm sure I could explain that a bit better but hopefully you will get the drift.
I know I am missing Azurmendi, but is there any other place in the city that is just too great to miss, keeping in mind the creative, 'cocina del autor," "gastro tapas" type places that we prefer.
I've got to start a new thread on San Sebastian soon. My head is just spinning now with all these details!
I did take your advice, Robert, and was able to book the Hotel Urune for two nights, directly. They kindly phoned Remenetxe for me so dinner there is set.
I have requested a lunch table on the second day (Monday) at Etxanobe. So that night will be pinxtos only.
Sunday presents an enviable, but difficult choice: There are SO many tempting restaurants! (Quite a number are closed for Sunday dinner, however, including Restaurant Mina which looks very good, but it tasting menu only. I prefer food that is somewhat creative.
Knowing all that, Robert would you still recommend Los Fueros? (Those famous shrimp look out of this world!) Los Fueros is open for both Sunday dinner and lunch, and I am thinking dinner might be better to book, as many places will be closed then (including Mina) so perhaps it is best to reserve Sunday afternoon for pinto hopping, and have dinner at Los Fueros. (I'd hate to have lunch there and then be confronted with dead streets in the evening)
I'm sure I could explain that a bit better but hopefully you will get the drift.
I know I am missing Azurmendi, but is there any other place in the city that is just too great to miss, keeping in mind the creative, 'cocina del autor," "gastro tapas" type places that we prefer.
I've got to start a new thread on San Sebastian soon. My head is just spinning now with all these details!
I did take your advice, Robert, and was able to book the Hotel Urune for two nights, directly. They kindly phoned Remenetxe for me so dinner there is set.
Jul 9th, 2016, 11:42 PM
#49
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In the Los Fueros gastrobar in Bilbao, they're serving a kalimotxo (the infamous Coca-Cola and red wine drink) emulsion on top of foie gras in their star pintxo - the so called Fualimotxo, and they even serve the Fualimotxo in Michelin star restaurant Etxanobe ;-) The Fualimotxo in Los Fueros is a major hit, and you'll find the place just off Plaza Nueva.
http://bilbaoalacarta.com/restaurant...ao/los-fueros/
http://www.cocinatis.com/chefs/cocin...082700065.html
http://loquecomadonmanuel.com/2014/1...y-generosidad/
http://bilbaoalacarta.com/restaurant...ao/los-fueros/
http://www.cocinatis.com/chefs/cocin...082700065.html
http://loquecomadonmanuel.com/2014/1...y-generosidad/
Jul 11th, 2016, 08:00 AM
#50
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Kimhe thanks a million! Will you be around at that time in early November?
I'm moving along in the bookings....now not sure how many days for Burgos but I know, as you do, that it all good, time in Spain! never mentioned this but it will be a big birthday for me.
Ibai??? comments there?
I'm moving along in the bookings....now not sure how many days for Burgos but I know, as you do, that it all good, time in Spain! never mentioned this but it will be a big birthday for me.
Ibai??? comments there?
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