Madrid & Toledo in July, 2011
Jul 16th, 2011, 07:28 AM
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Madrid & Toledo in July, 2011
Hi everybody!
I have just come back from my 10 night trip to Madrid and Toledo and I have to admit that I TOTALLY LOVED MADRID! I know, and have read, far better trip reports about Madrid here on Fodors, and I, in no way, intend to pretend I know Madrid better than other travelers.
Ever since I bought my plane ticket in January I had been regretting my decision of going there because Madrid was supposed to be extremely hot in July. I even posted a topic about it a few months ago and most of you encouraged me to visit it despite of it for which I can’t thank you enough. More than a trip report, these are my thoughts about the city. I had also read that most people seem to prefer Barcelona over Madrid, and, to be honest, I thought Barcelona was just nice when I visited it in 2008. I know, I know… there’s the Sagrada Família along with other Gaudí buildings, the waterfront, the Picasso and Miró museums, the Ramblas, the Gothic quarter and the Boquería Market… but I don’t know… I just didn’t “feel” the city. I am glad I visited it, but I don’t see myself going back. I agree that Barcelona and Madrid are two different cities and that Barcelona has its own merits, but, if I had to choose, Madrid would be my choice. I think Barcelona has developed a theme park quality focused on tourism. Madrid, on the other hand, seems more focused on being itself regardless of tourism. I also think that, when it comes to food, you need to do some research to find good places to eat in Barcelona because there are many tourist traps. In Madrid, however, I think it is easier to find good places to eat because the entire city seems devoted to eating. Anyhow… to each, their own… I respect those who like and prefer Barcelona… I mean… who am I to judge? I am not an art, architecture or food critic… I just like traveling and that’s it.
Back to Madrid:
Scorching heat in July? What are people talking about? Sure, for a couple of hours, especially after 12 PM, being in the sun was a bit unpleasant, but that's everywhere in Europe (well, maybe not in Scandinavia). Mornings were cool and late afternoons and evenings were windy and pleasant. In fact, even though I booked a hotel with AC, I didn't turn it on ONCE during my week stay!
Excellent ethnic food in Lavapiés, excellent sweets in Salamanca and excellent tapas in San Antón and San Miguel markets along with great shopping in Chueca and Malasaña were a highlight of my trip. Seafood tapas in La Casa del Bacalao in the San Antón and San Miguel market cost one Euro each and I thought they were very good. There were a lot of tourists in the San Miguel market, while there were a lot of locals in San Antón. Desigual is a very original Catalan clothing brand, although its design can be a bit over the top. I bought a couple of polo shirts there. I bought a couple of book at Casa del Libro, in La Gran Vía, of a Uruguayan writer called Horacio Quiroga, known for being Latin America’s Edgar Allan Poe.
I also loved strolling through different barrios! Atmospheric Austrias and Letras, ethnic Lavapiés and Latina, town-like Malasaña and Chueca, and elegant Salamanca. Plaza Mayor is a beautiful square (it reminded me of Piazza San Carlo, in Turin), but the shops and restaurants on and around the square are very tourist-oriented.
I stayed at Hotel Abba in Arganzuela, which is a quiet neighborhood in southern Madrid at a 45 minute walk from Puerta del Sol. There’s a subway station nearby, but I never used it because I like walking. I thought the hotel was inexpensive, spotless and comfortable.
Goya, Velázquez and El Greco's paintings in El Prado and biking in El Retiro were also a highlight of my trip. After strolling and biking in the Parque del Retiro, I visited the Prado on Sunday, after 5 PM when it is free, and the line to enter the museum was fluent and it was less crowded than other famous Europeans museums. I didn’t visit the Royal Palace, the Reina Sofía, the Thyssen-Bornemisza or El Escorial, which I regret, but well… nothing can be perfect.
I thought madrileños were very talkative and open to help when you need directions or have a question. I also noticed that they LOVE eating out, drinking and enjoying life to the fullest.
When my week in Madrid was about to be over, I was already thinking of an excuse to go back next year or in the future.
I have read that Toledo can be done as a day trip, but I was very glad I stayed for three nights. However, I think that two nights, arriving at noon on the first day and leaving also at noon on the third, day is good enough. If I had planned my trip a little better, I could have visited Segovia, but I planned it a bit in a rushed before going back to work after Christmas.
The highlights of my time in Toledo were the hour long river walk from the Alcántara bridge to the San Martín bridge and the Cathedral. There were people fishing by the river and the walk offered good views of the Tagus River. I stayed at Hotel Santa Isabel near the cathedral, which was inexpensive, spotless and comfortable. Plaza de Zocodover has a hectic bus terminal atmosphere that makes it an unpleasant place in which to take a break during the day. Plaza del Ayuntamiento has a pleasant town-like atmosphere instead. Marrón Glacé and Yemas de Santa Teresa were two of the many sweets I tried and loved in Toledo. Toledo was warmer than Madrid, but I never felt the need of turning on the AC at night either.
Thanks to those of you who advised me to stick to my original plan and visit Madrid and do my best to enjoy it. For those of you who recommended other destinations, such as San Sebastián and Bilbao, I will definitely take them into account because I can't wait to go back to Spain!
Orlando.
I have just come back from my 10 night trip to Madrid and Toledo and I have to admit that I TOTALLY LOVED MADRID! I know, and have read, far better trip reports about Madrid here on Fodors, and I, in no way, intend to pretend I know Madrid better than other travelers.
Ever since I bought my plane ticket in January I had been regretting my decision of going there because Madrid was supposed to be extremely hot in July. I even posted a topic about it a few months ago and most of you encouraged me to visit it despite of it for which I can’t thank you enough. More than a trip report, these are my thoughts about the city. I had also read that most people seem to prefer Barcelona over Madrid, and, to be honest, I thought Barcelona was just nice when I visited it in 2008. I know, I know… there’s the Sagrada Família along with other Gaudí buildings, the waterfront, the Picasso and Miró museums, the Ramblas, the Gothic quarter and the Boquería Market… but I don’t know… I just didn’t “feel” the city. I am glad I visited it, but I don’t see myself going back. I agree that Barcelona and Madrid are two different cities and that Barcelona has its own merits, but, if I had to choose, Madrid would be my choice. I think Barcelona has developed a theme park quality focused on tourism. Madrid, on the other hand, seems more focused on being itself regardless of tourism. I also think that, when it comes to food, you need to do some research to find good places to eat in Barcelona because there are many tourist traps. In Madrid, however, I think it is easier to find good places to eat because the entire city seems devoted to eating. Anyhow… to each, their own… I respect those who like and prefer Barcelona… I mean… who am I to judge? I am not an art, architecture or food critic… I just like traveling and that’s it.
Back to Madrid:
Scorching heat in July? What are people talking about? Sure, for a couple of hours, especially after 12 PM, being in the sun was a bit unpleasant, but that's everywhere in Europe (well, maybe not in Scandinavia). Mornings were cool and late afternoons and evenings were windy and pleasant. In fact, even though I booked a hotel with AC, I didn't turn it on ONCE during my week stay!
Excellent ethnic food in Lavapiés, excellent sweets in Salamanca and excellent tapas in San Antón and San Miguel markets along with great shopping in Chueca and Malasaña were a highlight of my trip. Seafood tapas in La Casa del Bacalao in the San Antón and San Miguel market cost one Euro each and I thought they were very good. There were a lot of tourists in the San Miguel market, while there were a lot of locals in San Antón. Desigual is a very original Catalan clothing brand, although its design can be a bit over the top. I bought a couple of polo shirts there. I bought a couple of book at Casa del Libro, in La Gran Vía, of a Uruguayan writer called Horacio Quiroga, known for being Latin America’s Edgar Allan Poe.
I also loved strolling through different barrios! Atmospheric Austrias and Letras, ethnic Lavapiés and Latina, town-like Malasaña and Chueca, and elegant Salamanca. Plaza Mayor is a beautiful square (it reminded me of Piazza San Carlo, in Turin), but the shops and restaurants on and around the square are very tourist-oriented.
I stayed at Hotel Abba in Arganzuela, which is a quiet neighborhood in southern Madrid at a 45 minute walk from Puerta del Sol. There’s a subway station nearby, but I never used it because I like walking. I thought the hotel was inexpensive, spotless and comfortable.
Goya, Velázquez and El Greco's paintings in El Prado and biking in El Retiro were also a highlight of my trip. After strolling and biking in the Parque del Retiro, I visited the Prado on Sunday, after 5 PM when it is free, and the line to enter the museum was fluent and it was less crowded than other famous Europeans museums. I didn’t visit the Royal Palace, the Reina Sofía, the Thyssen-Bornemisza or El Escorial, which I regret, but well… nothing can be perfect.
I thought madrileños were very talkative and open to help when you need directions or have a question. I also noticed that they LOVE eating out, drinking and enjoying life to the fullest.
When my week in Madrid was about to be over, I was already thinking of an excuse to go back next year or in the future.
I have read that Toledo can be done as a day trip, but I was very glad I stayed for three nights. However, I think that two nights, arriving at noon on the first day and leaving also at noon on the third, day is good enough. If I had planned my trip a little better, I could have visited Segovia, but I planned it a bit in a rushed before going back to work after Christmas.
The highlights of my time in Toledo were the hour long river walk from the Alcántara bridge to the San Martín bridge and the Cathedral. There were people fishing by the river and the walk offered good views of the Tagus River. I stayed at Hotel Santa Isabel near the cathedral, which was inexpensive, spotless and comfortable. Plaza de Zocodover has a hectic bus terminal atmosphere that makes it an unpleasant place in which to take a break during the day. Plaza del Ayuntamiento has a pleasant town-like atmosphere instead. Marrón Glacé and Yemas de Santa Teresa were two of the many sweets I tried and loved in Toledo. Toledo was warmer than Madrid, but I never felt the need of turning on the AC at night either.
Thanks to those of you who advised me to stick to my original plan and visit Madrid and do my best to enjoy it. For those of you who recommended other destinations, such as San Sebastián and Bilbao, I will definitely take them into account because I can't wait to go back to Spain!
Orlando.
Jul 16th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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Orlando:
I really enjoyed your trip report(I am a great lover of Madrid); and as I live in Uruguay, I enjoyed your comment about Horacio Quiroga(don't miss El Hijo ,A La Deriva or El Almohadón de Plumas).
I really enjoyed your trip report(I am a great lover of Madrid); and as I live in Uruguay, I enjoyed your comment about Horacio Quiroga(don't miss El Hijo ,A La Deriva or El Almohadón de Plumas).
Jul 20th, 2011, 07:21 PM
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Sounds like a great time! I'm planning a trip to Madrid and keep hearing the same "Barcelona is so much better" but I feel like those people may not truly not appreciate madrileños and their love for food and life. Since I have not been to either, yet, I will just have to wait and see! Anyway, great trip report! Thanks for sharing!
Aug 11th, 2011, 01:10 PM
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great report! I think the Barcelona vs. Madrid is because so often people don't have time for both and end up choosing one or the other. I like both but only prefer Madrid because I lived there as a student eons ago and know it much better. I would like to go back to Barcelona because on our visit their last year I only allotted 2.5 days for it and I regret that now. just another reason to go back I think 
It's a very cool city! I'm glad you had such fun in one of my favorite cities!
It's a very cool city! I'm glad you had such fun in one of my favorite cities!
Aug 13th, 2011, 10:32 AM
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That's exactly why the whole Madrid vs. Barcelona takes place. Of course, each has its own merits, but sometimes people must choose between the two of them because they don't have time for both.
In 2008, I only counted on a week to visit Spain for the first time, and, of course, I had to choose. I ended up choosing Barcelona over Madrid, because most people seemed to prefer it. However, I liked Madrid better: great food and great atmosphere.
Thanks for your comments,
Orlando.
In 2008, I only counted on a week to visit Spain for the first time, and, of course, I had to choose. I ended up choosing Barcelona over Madrid, because most people seemed to prefer it. However, I liked Madrid better: great food and great atmosphere.
Thanks for your comments,
Orlando.
