Madrid and London

Old Apr 24th, 2014, 10:53 AM
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The theatre AND Liberty's. lucky you. My favourite shop just about in london.

what did you see at the theatre?
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 11:07 AM
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Tagging along, TDudette. Sounds like you are having a blast on your first solo journey since 1969 (!!!). Good for you and enjoyable for the rest of us to read about it. Looking forward to more details if/when you have time.
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Tdutwo--Looking forward to your detailed trip report when you return. Glad you liked the Matisse exhibit. Can't wait to hear all about it and the plays you saw.

lateday--the site was down in the evening our time for maintenance but if you try in the morning our time, it will be up and running and you can get your tickets.
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Old Apr 24th, 2014, 05:39 PM
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Europeannovice, thanks I will try again.
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Old Apr 25th, 2014, 08:12 AM
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Hi and thanks, ann, Leely2, european and lateday,

Lots of folks using computers and kindle typing still a pain.

ann, Jersey Boys, Book of Mormon and Handbagged. Also made it to a free concert at St. Martin in the Fields. Saw the 2 Tates and Courtauld---Tate Britain and Courtauld both excellent.

When I'm in charge, all galleries will have wood floors--so much easier on the feet/legs.

Fates willing, home tomorrow.
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Old Apr 25th, 2014, 08:43 AM
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TDudette, wow, that trip went fast, eh? But don't they all? Looking forward to your final report.


A liberal friend of mine just saw Book of Mormon in Boston and was very surprised at the language. I am carving out some time for the Tate Britain, ordering tickets for Matisse...
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Old Apr 25th, 2014, 09:51 AM
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Yes they do, lateday. I was going to save this for the actual TR but Mormon is quite raunchy. More than raunchy in parts. I want to meet the authors, but NOT date them!

If one doesn't like South Park, I'd say forget about Mormon.
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Old Apr 25th, 2014, 10:48 AM
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TD - you packed a lot in. those shows sound great [not seen any, mind].

What did you think of the Matisse cutouts?
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Old Apr 25th, 2014, 12:59 PM
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Hey ann, While Matisse is not my favorite (John Singer Sargent is), I enjoyed the cutouts. That he did them while infirmed added to the interest. Do you think you will get up to see them?

Did you know he was a lawyer? He said to Picasso something like "You were born Picasso; it took some time for me to become Matisse."
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Old Apr 26th, 2014, 03:32 AM
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Sadly TD I think that it's unlikely I'll get to London to see them - they were in Falmouth [which is only 7 miles away from here after all] before that and I didn't see them then! - though in my defence I don't think I'd appreciated what all the fuss is about. Cornwall isn't that good at publicity, as you will gather.

I didn't know that he was a lawyer - I'll have to store that away in my "interesting trivia" file.
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Old Apr 26th, 2014, 04:47 PM
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Love the Matisse quote.
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Old Apr 26th, 2014, 06:01 PM
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Love the quote too. This should be a very interesting trip report when TDuTwo returns.
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 04:52 AM
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I'm baack!

Sargent and Sorolla knew each other.

Off to download photos, do laundry and go through notes. But a couple of things to pass along that I remember well:

Travelers info:

At this writing, Global Entry is in A East but not yet A West terminal in Philadelphia. Hopefully this will change. Although I had to get in the regular line for security, they didn't scan me or make me remove jacket or shoes.

Upon return, Global Entry is well-marked and simple to navigate. One slides his/her passport into a reader and follows the directions on the screen. Once the passport holder is identified, one answers (on screen) a few questions and is instructed to put 4 fingers on a screen to the right of the passport area. Then it's a short wait for a little receipt and on to the person who has time to chat and to welcome you back with a smile! If you travel a lot, it's such a time saver. I had nothing to declare so can't speak to that aspect.

Travelers' info:

Be sure to write down where you parked your car and note the color of the courtesy bus.

Travelers' info (and a tip of the hat to DH):

Keep in mind that you will need change to tip people. Always get change and have some available. Leave a daily tip for cleaning staff since the same person may not be doing it.

More as soon as I can see straight!
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Old Apr 27th, 2014, 06:42 AM
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Welcome home!
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 07:56 AM
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Here are some more tips. Day one next.

4. Give yourself time to find a parking space if you are using the economy lot on a holiday.

5. At USAirways, if you aren’t checking bags, you can simply swipe your opened passport in a machine that stands just before the check-in people. There will be a couple of questions to answer by touch and then your ticket is provided. Go on to Security check. Note above about the TSA pre-check (Global entry).

6. Pay attention to your paper work. Being at the wrong gate number could test your heart and lungs.

7. Even if your driving company asks for your departure date, confirm and double-check that they will pick you up the next day for overnight flights. In Madrid, taxis should charge a flat rate.

8. Just take a taxi if you can afford it. No worries about long lines in customs.

9. Get change for tipping whenever possible.

10. Concerned about noise? Do ask for a quiet room when you make your reservations. Refuse the room if it doesn’t suit.

11. There is an ATM in the lower floors of the Thyssen-Bornemisza
.

12. There are 2 routes on the Madrid HO-HO bus—make certain you get the one that goes by Royal Palace.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 08:23 AM
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DH and I often named our trips based upon recurring themes. "It's only a short walk, Madam" was one. "La bas, Madam" was another. This one will be "How can we help you, Madam?" because people were so wonderful to me.


Day 1
16 April 2014
Weather in the high 70s in Madrid. Partly cloudy.

Meals:
Cibo at airport; steak frites, $19 and house Shiraz, $12.10. Good but pricey.

On plane, a GF meal of a white fish filet over white/wild rice, salad with once slice of cuke and one cherry tomato (balsamic vinegar dressing), fennel, and about 6 strawberries. Oh, don’t forget a big round of cardboard, er rice cake. Was given another one for snack. Gack.

Dinner in hotel’s Estato Puro: 1. A slice of foie gras on spiced bread (more like a saltless cracker) with a Pedro Ximenes [sherry] reduction-€5, 70. Yum! 2. Iberian Ham Croquette-€2,25. Too mushy inside. 3. Oli ali potatoes were 7 small cube-shaped roasted potatoes with a daub of aioli, caviar and chives-€5.25. Big yum. Rioja wine €3 and Cabreiror water €2.35


Although a slightly longer trip than to Dulles (1.75 hours traffic permitting), I chose to leave from Philadelphia Airport. From my Annapolis-area home it is almost 3 hours. One can go over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and up Rte 301, to Rte. 299 to Rte 95 and avoid tolls or take Rte 97 to Rte 495 (Baltimore Beltway) to Rte 95. 95 has tolls but is a tad speedier.

Exit for long-term parking was confusing for me so I just took the regular airport exit and followed signs for economy parking. There is an option for cardless parking. Just insert your credit card upon entering. When you return 10 days later, insert the same card and Bob’s your uncle (thanks Dick Francis).

I left home at 11:35 and was sliding my passport at 3:15. I had to drive around a bit to find a parking spot. Because of the Global Entry, I also went to an actual person to find out the mechanics. She put a ‘TSA pre-check” sticker on my ticket but didn’t bother to tell me I wouldn’t be able to use it in the section in which we were standing and that I needed to go outside to the next section. A little bit of a grrr to her but it’s a newish system. Maybe she hated me because I am beautiful (this is a huge HAR—she could hardly be annoyed at this fat and gray old gal.)

I check the departures board and see that my friend and colleague will be at the gate next to mine. She is going to Barcelona. We grab dinner (awful airplane food insurance) and chat and part for our gates.

At about 5 minutes after I thought we should be loading up, nothing is going on. When someone asks me if this is the plane to Miami, I look back at my ticket and realize my dyslexic mistake. Instead of gate 21, I should be at gate 12! How could I ever admit to missing my plane? Fortunately, a passing jitney got me to the correct gate as my section was boarding.

Someone is sitting in my seat on the plane. He changed row 12 to 14 so I didn’t feel quite so silly. No seat partner on this 2, 4, 2 configured airbus. Not terribly comfortable seats but I could spread out a bit.

I adore the GPS map, but why does it show where things sank?! Titanic, Thresher and the Bismark! Not quite so daunting are markings for sea- and tablemounts. Please see what wiki says they are below. You can thank me for the education part of this TR later:

“A seamount is a mountain rising from the ocean seafloor that does not reach to the water's surface (sea level), and thus is not an island.”

“A guyot, also known as a tablemount, is an isolated underwater volcanic mountain (seamount), with a flat top over 200 metres (660 feet) below the surface of the sea. The diameters of these flat summits can exceed 10 km (6.2 mi).”

Does an 88 m.p.h. tailwind interest you? I listened to music and then watched a movie “Last Vegas” with Robert De Niro, Michael Douglas, Morgan Freeman and Kevin Kline. I enjoyed it but it was another of these could have brilliant movies. Naturally the big credits don’t mention Mary Steenburgen. At 61, she looks pretty good. And her “But Melvin, I just love to dance!” from a previous movie is what I always said to DH when I acted up so it was fun to see her.

The non-GF people got a muffin top for pre-landing breakfast. I got another big round of cardboard, er, rice cake.

Despite leaving almost an hour late (we were #14 in line), we arrived on time in Madrid at 8:25. Perhaps that tailwind interests you now. Quick customs run and a loooong walk to Arrivals. There was no sign with my name on it. I was directed outside and still nothing. I was informed by someone that a taxi would take me and match the price of my driver. The price was actually lower so I gave him a good tip.

May I digress at this time to say how oblivious I was about tipping when DH took care of it? Who to tip, how much and keeping some change in my pocket were and are part of yet another learning curve.

The drive into Madrid was smooth and roads not terribly crowded. My first impression of Madrid was of a smaller, cleaner, more spacious version of Rome with a good blue sky. We entered through the beautiful Puerto de Alcalá.

https://plus.google.com/110434304426...ut?gl=us&hl=en

We pass by the Retiro park, and it looks lovely also, to the Plaza de Cibeles where workers are cleaning up from the previous night’s celebration of Madrid’s win over Barcelona in fotball. I was told that various celebrations led to so much damage to Cibeles’ statuary, that eventually only the team captain could touch things. Do google for the images of this space.

FYI, this is the final drop-off stop for the €3 bus ride (discussed before) from the airport. If you are in even reasonable shape, it would be about a 10-minute walk at most to my hotel. Armed with that knowledge, I think I could do it next time.

We turn left onto Paseo del Prado. It is comprised of three strips: north lanes, wide park and south lanes. And it’s lined with lots of mature trees still dressed in spring green. It’s quite beautiful.

Hotel NH Paseo del Prado’s building is huge and pretty also. A wonderful concierge, Simòn, will be my best friend through Friday. More later about all he does. There is no asking, my bag is whisked away and I am escorted to my single room on the 5th floor with no view (I had asked for quiet). It is beautiful and there will be photos later.

I am in my room by 10 a.m. and the phone rings. It is lincasanova! How nice to talk with her again. We had met at a DC GTG at the home of the santamonicas. Wish I’d had a day or 2 more to visit her. Her advice to order caffe con leche, con mucho leche brought good results. Thanks, lin!

The room is very spacious with a double bed, desk, 2 closets and a big bathroom. Shower is large enough for 4 people with both hand-held and rain shower heads. AND, a glass door that kept water off the floor! Lots of counter space too.

It’s time to get on the road. There is a cab stand and a bus stop right in front of the hotel. Simòn has furnished me with a good map and marked the locations of nearest ATMs. I mention my desire to see flamenco to him and he says he’ll do what he can. I walk to ATM on Huertas and it is near a police station and very safe. A sigh of relief that I have money and the machine didn’t eat my card.

I get a cab to Museo Sorolla and am enthralled at the home and gardens of this “Bravura Impressionist.” He was a contemporary of John Singer Sargent and followed Sargent’s work. This is leading to an entire new set of reading to find out about their actual relationship.

Mrs. Sorolla left this home to Spain so its furnishings and Sorolla’s artwork in progress or completed but not sold are everywhere. He designed the home and its gardens. His daughter Elena became a sculptor but I haven’t googled her yet. So many tangents to go off on, so little time.

I take my time savoring this intimate look at Sorolla and sit at a table in the garden and write some notes.

Back to the street and cab to Museo Galdiano but it is closed and will be for Easter week (unless I misunderstood). I never made time to double check this on line. Asked cabbie to take me to the Prado.

It was crowded but not mobbed around this amazing museum. A man is playing guitar beautifully so I buy his CD but decide I’d rather tackle the Prado in the morning so I start walking back to hotel.

On the spur of the moment I hop on a HO-HO bus thinking I’d get a good look at the layout of Madrid. I almost fell asleep! Didn’t realize this was the short trip so was glad I got a 2-day pass (used non-chip Visa on the bus) so could get a ride to Royal Palace on another day.

Now it’s 3ish so I go back to the hotel and Simòn has gotten me the last available ticket at Corral de las Morerías for flamenco for Friday night at 9. Hot diggity. Back to room and took a nap. Awoke at 8:30 and showered. At 10 I’m eating dinner at Estado Puro on the sidewalk terrace (see above). The streets are alive and it makes sense in this warm climate.

Service is good even though the wait staff is busy. I have spoken with single women who say they have problems getting waited on. Indeed my friend who went to Barcelona said she was denied entry in a resto because she was a single woman.

Well, the end of a good first day. I made it to Madrid without missing the plane. Egad!
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 10:38 AM
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I just found your trip report and am loving it! Mr. 007 and I are huge fans of Joaquin Sorolla and John Singer Sargent so I eagerly await your future installments. Years ago we saw a wonderful exhibit of Sorolla's work in San Diego.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 05:08 PM
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Great start to your report. Last time coming back from Heathrow we thought we allowed enough time to go through security but the line was super long (we were having breakfast at Cafe Rouge at the airport and I guess waited a bit too long to go on the security line). We made it on the plane but we were the last ones to board before the doors closed. Not a great feeling to feel so rushed. Glad you got to the right gate in time!

Looking forward to more.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 05:09 PM
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Hi TDudette,
Wow, you really did a great deal the first day! I usually crash immediately then go out.Glad that your hotel was so satisfactory.

"Get change for tipping whenever possible" - I agree. I always have a good supply of coins for euros or pounds on these solo jaunts. Not sure, were you there before or after Easter?

Looking forward to your take on the Prado...
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 01:38 AM
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I adore the GPS map, but why does it show where things sank?! Titanic, Thresher and the Bismark! >>

lol, TD. The info on our Cathay Pacific flight from HK to LHR only had the map - I reached my nadir when we were told that we were over Novozibirsk [siberia, somewhere] with another 9 hours to go. I think I'd have welcomed some topographical information at that point.

I missed Sorolla entirely when we were in Madrid a few years ago, and know nothing about him. an excuse to go back? [as well as the food of course!]
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