Madrid
 

Maribel: I would love your suggestions and/or file. We will arrivein Madrid Nov 27 and leave Dec 2. Do you recommend Toledo as a day trip? Please email me at [email protected]

suzyg,
Yes, I do recommend Toledo as a day trip, on your third day-probably Sat. Nov. 29 would be the best time. I'd avoid Sun. (crowds and shorter hrs. for monuments) and Mon. when some are closed. I'll forward to your email info on how to do Toledo by public transportation and other suggestions.

Thanks. I heard there is an express train to Toledo. Also, can you recommend must-dos in Madrid. I know the Prado and the Palace. Suggestions for hotel, which area to stay?

suzyg,
There's a Regional Express train leaving Atocha station in Madrid at 8:30, arriving Toledo at 10 a.m. There are also busses departing every 30 min. from the huge Estación Sur de Autobuses station right above the Méndez-Alvaro metro stop, but you may prefer to take the train, although there are fewer daily departures and returns. The pseudo múdejar architecture of Toledo's train station makes it a sight in itself.

The "must sees" if you're an art lover would certainly be the museum triangle, consisting of the Prado, Centro de Arte Reina Sofía and the Thyssen Bornemisza collection. Other "must sees" would be the Royal Palace, the Plaza Mayor and strolling through Old Madrid, the Madrid of the Hapsburgs (el Madrid de los Austrias). Some like the Sunday morning flea market, the Rastro, although it's rare that one can find something of real value there these days-mostly junk, huge crowds and thus, many pickpockets, but the post-Rastro "tapas" bar scene in the taverns of Old Madrid, before lunch, is fun. On Sundays, I enjoy a late morning stroll through Retiro park to see the families at play, the street musicians, people renting pedal boats on the Estanque, etc. Other smaller art museums I enjoy are the Sorolla (the Spanish impressionist) and the Museo de la Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando (for lots of Spanish Baroque), plus Goya?s frescoes at the Capilla de San Antonio de la Florida (metro stop: Príncipe Pío).


If you're a first time visitor, you probably will prefer to stay downtown where everything is walkable, particularly if you want to spend considerable time at the museum triangle. Downtown hotels I like are:

deluxe:
Westin Palace, Ritz, Villa Real

upper moderate:
Intur Palacio San Martín, H10 Villa de la Reina, Green Lope de Vega, Catalonia Moratín (very new)

moderate:
Opera, Suecia (although some have found the Swedish décor rms showing wear & tear now), HH Campomanes (for the young/trendy)

budget (under 80):
Persal, Hospedaje Madrid, Plaza Mayor

I personally stay away from the Puerta del Sol-Preciados-Callao-Gran Vía commerical, transportation and tourist axis because of the congestion/noise/"street life" (watch your belongings), but many posters here have enjoyed the 2 Best Westerns there, the good value, older Carlos V, the Santo Domingo and the Atlántico. And the newish Hotel Preciados is good for families.

The Carlton is offered by British Airways, in the Prado area, do you have an opinion?

suzyg,
I must honestly say that I'm just not fond of the southern location of the Carlton, since it's much closer to Atocha rail station than the Prado.
If you look on the locater map at
www.hotelcarlton.com, you'll see that it's down on the Paseo de las Delicias, actually south of the rail station, and a good walk from the Prado. It's actually closer to the Reina Sofia art museum. Although there's nothing wrong with this 4 star hotel, and the 117 euro rate in off season is very good for a Madrid 4 star, there are certainly nicer locations for a 5 night stay, I think. But just my opinion...

Hi Maribel,
we will be staying in madrid for 3 nites... we will arrive in the morning from Barcelona by plane on sunday oct 12 and be leaving early on wed oct 15 for the train to Sevilla ..we would like to spend 1 full day sightseeing in madrid going to Prado and maybe an on off bus tour? and 1 day excursion to toledo and 1 day to segovia...since our 3 days involve a sunday,and monday (where I heard some things are also closed) do you suggest seeing Madrid on sun and going to the other towns mon & Tues? what time do things close on Sun?what is the best mode of transportation train? Bus? tour? to these towns? Also, on the way to sevilla where we are going by bullet train, is it feasible to stop in Cordoba? what is the shortest amount of time we can spend there to make it worthwhile? What are the must sees? and a good place for lunch? and finally, we already reserved a car for the morning we are supposed to arrive in Seviila. If we stop in Cordoba for a few hours, do you think the car rental company will still have the car for us in the afternoon? you can answer me here or if you have a file on this e mail me at [email protected] you soo much!
Debbie

hi deb,
The public transportation info about day trips from Madrid is in my Madrid file, which I'll send along to you.
I would do the Prado on Sun. (it's now open Sundays til 7 p.m.), then Segovia on Monday and Toledo on Tues.
Can go to Toledo either by Regional Express train from Atocha station (only 5 departures daily, though) or by Galiano bus from the huge Estación Sur de Autobuses in Madrid, right above the Méndez Alvaro metro station in the southern section of the city..
The best way by far to Segovia is by La Sepulvedana bus, which leaves from the Paseo de la Florida, in southern Madrid next to the Florida Norte hotel (metro: Príncipe Pío). Take the 9 or 9:30 express, which will arrive exactly 1 hr. 15 min. later.

Yes, you can stop in Córdoba on the AVE trip from Madrid to Seville, but it requires purchasing 2 separate tickets, Madrid-Córdoba, Córdoba-Seville. The absolute minimum time I'd spend would be 4 1/2-5 hrs. to do your stop justice. So you could take the 8:30 AVE arriving Córdoba at 10:12 (or if early risers, better to take the 7:30, arriving at 9:20), stash your bags in the luggage lockers located right above the escalator, to the left of the terminal, grab a taxi to the Mezquita, see it first (opens at 10), then visit the gardens of the Alcázar, stroll around the Judería (Jewish Quarter), peek into the lavishly decorated patios, have a wonderful lunch of tapas in the indoor patio of terrific Taberna Casa Pepe on the corner of Calle Judíos, then back to the plaza where the tourist office is located to grab a taxi back to the station to catch the 4:44 AVE to Seville, arriving at 5:30, or if you want to arrive earlier in Seville take the earlier AVE from Madrid and catch the 3:44 to Seville, arriving at 4:30.

But I would NEVER have a car in Seville, as it's an absolute nuisance. The streets are tiny, narrow, many one-way, hard to negotiate and downtown is a total maze. I would pick up your rental car on your DEPARTURE day from Seville, not upon arrival. The day you leave your hotel, just taxi back to Santa Justa train station, pick up car, then take the ring road out of town. I'm assuming you're heading south (?)
Hope this helps to answer your questions.

pdm:

You must consider that 12th Oct. is Spanish national day (the Columbus arrived America), and Madrid, specially Prado area, will be cut to traffic. There will be a Military Parade through Paseo del Prado. The King, Aznar and all the authorities will place at Plaza de Colón.

I don't if museums will be open, but probably not.

Yes! José is right. I didn't even notice your Oct. 12 arrival. The Castellana-Paseo de Recoletos-Paseo del Prado will be blocked off most of the day.
I just checked http://museoprado.mcu.es/home.html and it says that the Prado is closed every Monday PLUS Jan. 1, Good Friday, May 1, Dec. 25. It says nothing about National Day, but I'd have the desk staff check just in case.

Last October we spent 7 nights at the Intur Palacio San Martín ..3 nights upon arrival from Florida ..4 nights after visiting Seville before departing for home.. Loved it. Loved it. and with Bancotel discount tickets it was very affordable. Did I say..We loved Intur Palacio San Martín..

Maribel, I will take your advice and pick up the car on the way out of sevilla. we have to get in city center not train station... or Jarjet will deliver it to our hotel (we are staying at Las Casas Del Rey de Baeza at Plaza Jesus de la Redencion the nite before (we want to leave early in the morning for granada...we have tickets at 2:00pm) the car rental does not open till 9:30am do you think we'll have enough time to get the car and get to ur hotel Los Alixares Del Generalife on Paseo De La Sabica then to Alahmbra to retrieve tkts?? or to be safe should we pay the extra and get it the nite before? also should we leave our car at the train station overnite in Granada and take a taxi to hotel? is it safe to do that? finally if we are driving from Sevilla to granada to costa del sol to Malaga airport is a ford focus too big or should we get a renault clio?
thanks again for all your invaluable info!!
Debbie

deb,
I think you'll love the Casas del Rey de Baeza; it's really charming and stylish.

To avoid morning of departure hassles, I'd definitely have carjet deliver the car to the hotel the night before rather than have to waste time the next morning with taxi to their office at 9:30, then finding your way out of town. Then you have the 3 hr. drive to Granada, then up to the Alhambra hill on the Carretera de Circunvalacíón, the ring road (RONDA SUR, exit 132) which will take you around the city, avoiding horrendous downtown traffic all together.
Then you'll need to check in then walk over to the ticket counters to pick up your 2 p.m. tickets (you have a 30 min. grace period to get into the Nasrid Palace rooms, so must be in them by 2:30 p.m.) Picking up the rental that morning is just cutting it far too close, really not doable, I don't think.

I'm a little confused. I see on the carjet site that they have offices on Av. Kansas City, at the airport and also at Santa Justa train station.

There's parking up by your Hotel Alixares del Generalife. I think actually that the Alixares may have its own garage (can't remember) but if not, just leave the car in the huge Alhambra parking lot right across from the hotel. We stayed at the Alixares long ago, so I don't remember if they had their own garage, but the huge Alhambra parking lot is right there across the road.
You don't need to enter downtown Granada at all to reach the hotel on the Alhambra hill. Just take the ring road I mentioned above.
You don't want to venture into downtown Granda with your car when you can avoid it!

The Hotel Alixares is handy and functional, but it certainly can't compare with your Seville hotel choice. Is there a particular reason why you didn't choose the Alhambra Palace, also on the Alhambra hill in Granada? Were rooms not available? It's the Alhambra hill hotel, besides the Parador, that would be most comparable in style, comfort and amenities to Seville's Casas del Rey de Baeza. If it was fully booked, you could always check on a last minute cancellation. We were able to snag a last minute room doing high season once. Or perhaps you wanted to save euros with the Alixares. Just wondering...

Since you won't be touring the white towns between Arcos de la Frontera and Ronda, you'll probably be fine with a Focus. It has a more ample trunk than the Clio and will have more pep.

Hi Maribel,
The website I went on was http://www.all-inclusive-car-hire.com/...the choice was pick up car at sevilla airport or city center! We would love to stay at Alhambra Palace, but the travel agent said it was booked. we are not working with the agent anymore so I found the Los Alixares de generalife on Tripadvisor.com many people said it was a convenient and good place to stay...I booked it through Octopustravel.com (best rate)...now you have me worried...do you think we should look for someplace else? How do I find out if Alhambra Palace has a cancellation or is there another hotel you might suggest..it's for 1 nite the 17th of Oct

Maribel,
one other quick question (sorry to take up so much of your time)we are only staying in seville 2 nites would you stop in cordoba on the train on the way from madrid or do you think we should totally skip it because it will cut out a day in Seviile,,,we have to leave Seviile early the 3rd day to get to granada...so that would just leave us 1 full day in seville if we stop in Cordoba. It's probably the only time we'll ge to these places...so do you reccommend skipping cordoba and spending more time in Seville or doing both? Thank you, thank you

deb,
Because your time is so short in Seville, I actually think you should skip Córdoba on the way down, as you'd need 4 1/2-5 hrs. to make the stop worthwhile, and concentrate on Seville instead.

I assumed that the Alhambra Palace wasn't available through your booking agent. I've stayed at the Alixares del Generalife up the street myself, although quite a long time ago, in late July with 7 teenagers in tow who really needed that pool and their low rates! It's a serviceable tourist class hotel that has been favorably reviewed here fairly recently-not in the same league or same price as Seville's Casas del Rey de Baeza 4 star pseudo Moorish Alhambra Palace, but it does share its Alhambra hill location. Hotelclub.net has a 188 euro rate for the A.P. on Oct. 17, but you may not want to pay that much. Only you can be the judge as to whether the higher tariff is worth it to you.

http://www.hotelclub.net/hotel.reser...el_Granada.htm

pdm,
I just checked hotelclub.net for their rates for the Alixares, and at 61 euros including brk. for a twin, that price difference between the two is very, very hefty. Wouldn't be worth it for me for just one night. Don't worry, you'll be fine there.

brianc57 reviewed the Alixares favorably on his recent trip report. Put his name in the text search box to pull it up. Or type in
"Just returned from 10 day trip to Toledo, Granada, La Posada Del Torcal, Sevilla and Madrid"

thanks I will keep things the way they are and skip Cordoba...we arrive Oct 15 (the holiday in Madrid) at 9:30 am at the airp[ort. we are staying at the westin Palace...will a taxi be able to get us to our hotel because of the parade? or do you know if the Westin has a shuttle service? also do you think the Prado and/or the Palace will be open at all on sun? we are going to segovia on mon and toledo tues., then leaving wed morning by train for Sevilla..will what do you suggest? If we don't take one of the bus tours to Toledo & Segovia, are there english guided tours once we get there? your info has been invaluable...thanks!

pdm,
I thought that from your post above you'll be arriving in Madrid from Barcelona on Sunday. Oct. 12, the holiday. As I said above, I checked the Prado web site, and it says nothing about being closed on Oct. 12, but you should check with the Westin Palace desk staff. They most certainly will know.
But see
http://museoprado.mcu.es/ificha.html
On public holidays it's open from 9-7.

Also at www.patrimonionacional.es, it clearly states that on Oct. 12 the Royal Palace will be CLOSED.

About taxi from airport to the Westin Palace. If the Paseo del Prado is closed off to traffic by the time you arrive downtown because of the military parade, your taxi can let you off across the huge square, up by the Ritz. You'll figure out how to get across the plaza then-depends on your timing and the parade.
From the info on www.starwood.com, it appears the Westin Palace doesn't have airport shuttle service (I've only seen a van there taking groups to and fro the airport), but I'm sure they'd send a limo for you at a price! :-) They also have a tour desk and can arrange a guided tour for you of Toledo and Segovia for a nice price, or just go with the Juliá, Pullman or Trapsatur/Grey Line ones.

If you decide to go to Toledo and Segovia on your own...
In Toledo, the tourist office across the square from the cathedral may or may not run guided tours of the city in English. I don't know whether they're seasonal or not. We saw signs for them (but in Spanish) at the office when we passed by on Palm Sunday, but that may have been because it was Holy Week. I really don't know. There's also another tourist office in the park across from the Puerta de Bisagra, the main gate leading into Toledo's walled city.
To get your bearings in Toledo, you could first take the little tourist train that leaves from the Plaza del Zocodover.

The Segovia tourist office only runs their free city guided tours from July1-Sept. 30. but Segovia is very easy to see on one's own.
Also Segovia's little tourist train should be running on Mon. It starts out from the aqueduct square at 11 a.m., also at 1.
www.infosegovia.com says that their list of English speaking guides only works on Sat., Sun. and holidays.
If you go to Segovia on your own, just head to the tourist office next to the Roman aqueduct on the square, Plaza del Azoguejo, get a map and brochures, walk up the pedestrian street Calle Cervantes, which will change names to Juan Bravo then Infanta Isabel, which will lead you right up to the main square, the Plaza Mayor, where you'll see the cathedral. If you go on Mon., the special exhibit in the cathedral, sacred art treasures from Castilla-León called "El árbol de la vida" will be closed, but the cathedral itself is open.
Then walk from cathedral down narrow Marqués del Arco street which will change names to Daoiz, which will take you straight to the fairy tale Alcázar.

The Prado is certainly very walkable from the Westin Palace, so you don't have to worry about bus/taxi down the Paseo del Prado. Just walk.

And just know that the Alixares in Granada will be handy for your 1 night, since it's easy to reach via the ring road, but it just won't be nearly as luxurious as your Madrid and Seville hotel choices.

Have a great trip!

Hi Maribel and all,

Hope you don't mind my adding to the conversation. I have a few questions about our upcoming trip to Madrid and Andalucia. We are arriving in Madrid ( Hostal Macarena- my husband has a colleague that stayed there and loved it and it was his choice) on Wed.,11/5 mid day, and leaving Saturday, 11/8 on the AVE for Seville ( Casa de Juderia). We will be returning to Madrid on Tues, 11/18 and leave for Boston mid day ( 2:30PM) on 11/20. That leaves several days in Madrid. I am an artist and certainly want to spend time at the museums and galleries, see the palace, visit the parks, enjoy tapas and restuarants, etc. I have been thinking that we would visit Segovia or Toledo for a day trip at some point, either before or after Andalucia, perhaps eeither the third day after our arrival or the day before we leave for home. Any thoughts about how to spend our time in Madrid and the surrounding areas? Do we have too much time in Madrid? Maybe we should stop in Toledo on the way north from Malaga, though I don't know if the fast train stops there. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

In Andalucia, we will pick up a car after 3 nights in Seville. Then, we will have 2 nights in Arcos( El Convento), 1 in Ronda( Parador), 3 in Granada ( America), and 1 in Malaga ( Parador), before "training" back to Madrid. Some people on the forum seem to stay such short times in each place, but we've always liked to immerse ourselves in the area in whatever time we have.( I know that a few days is hardly immersed) Some people on the forum report that Seville and particularly, Granada only requires a day or a day and a half, and I've begun to worry that perhaps we've planned too much time in each place. Should we plan day trips from these cities as well? Has anyone traveled into the mountains on a day trip from Granada? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Margret