Lyon Restaurants
 

We will be staying 2 nights in Lyon in late February 2007. After much research on this forum, I have managed to short list a few restaurants as follows:-

Brasserie Georges
La Maison Villemanzy
Paul Bocuse's eateries
Le Caro de Lyon
Le Passage

Since we only have 2 dinners in Lyon (lunch will probably be on-the-go with jambon baguettes), could someone rank/rate them in order of preference/experience/quality. Much appreciated.

S

Looks like a formidable list. I would move Paul Bocuse to the bottom unless you just want to say you have been. Not much else to recommend it IMO. It is about on a par with his place at Epcot.

Any thoughts on bistros in Vieux Lyon?

Nov. issue of Gourmet highlighted the "bouchons" of Lyon, which they said are all about food and not so much about service. However, the article is so complimentary about the food and rough and tumble ambiance, that I'd try them in a minute.

Recommended are:
Cafe Comptoir Abel, 25 rue Guynemer

Chez Hugon, 12 rue Pizay

Chez Paul, 11 rue Major-Martin

Daniel et Denise, 156 rue de Crequi

Le Garete, 7 rue du Garete

Le Jura, 25 rue Tupin

Au Petit Bouchon Chez Georges, 8 rue du Garet

Wow, thanks. I'll have to track down that issue.

I ate at Brasserie Georges and at a bouchon, La Machonnerie located in Old Town. If you click on my name, I did a trip report.

http://www.brasseriegeorges.com/site/site.php

www.lamachonnerie.com

I recommend both, Georges (bit out of way) was a traditional large restaurant, high ceilings, good traditional food. Busy place, jazz band at 9 PM I had:

oTerrine Foie de Volaile Maison a L’Ancienne 6.50E (Foie Gras, lettuce, small tomato, pickle, aspic, onion), 4 bread buns
oSole Meuniere 21.50E
o ½ badoit (gas) 2.65E
o ½ Sancerre St Pierre 2004 (Prieur) White 13.50E

Machonnerie was recommended by a few reports I had read, so I searched it out. Small restaurant, very friendly service, interesting food. I had:

oWanted kir, he recommended his own recipe called a gnafron. Kir+marc de Bourgogne. Strong E3.05
o29E menu
Bread tray had sample of different types, plus some home made loaf
Salade lyonnais (greens, vinegar dressing bread crumbs, all in a big bowl
Patte de Caillon sauce tartare. Breaded pigs feet, lots of bones, Mustard sauce in pot, nice, really sticky fat, not much meat
Pochon de soupes au canuts is super soup brings tureen to table and ladles out. Very tasty, bread, cheese, onions, cream
Quenelles de brochet maison, sauce écrevisse en cocotte. Pike dumplings, bit too fishy. Nice sauce. Came with whole 6” long crayfish.
o 1/2L San Pellegrino gas E3.05
oCarrafe of Beaujolais village red E9.50
 desert plate of glace cassis, then waiter came over and sprinkled with marc.

I also tried a Paul Bocuse place, L'Est that was good. I had:

oKir E3.80
obread with olives and onions
o½ badoit E3.30
o glass of Crozes Hermitage E4.30
oTerrine de canard with bread, lettuce and other grees, cooked onion VG+ E9.80
oVolailes de Brest, simple, not a lot of meat, 2 pieces (was asked for breast or leg, took breast) E19.00
oLarge bowl with salad, basic green + Oil & Vinegar
o Boiled potatoes in dish, Brought metal tray, lit candles and used to keep potatoes in dish warm
oTarte de poirreau +++ E5.20
oCafé E2.10

Hope this helps a bit
Mike

I haven't read the Gourmet article, but one of the oldest, most traditional and most highly thought of bouchons is Cafe des Federations. I can recommend it for sure. Also, Splendid is a Georges Blanc restaurant, but not expensive not fussy. Its menu pays tribute to the "meres" of Lyon, the women who were the leading chefs of the city in the 19th century. Brasserie Georges is very fun. Among their specialities is choucroute (sauerkraut) with various porc products.

Hi everyone

I am not familiar with the term "bouchon". Anyone care to enlighten me?

Thanks!
Johanna

The best food I found was in Vieux Lyon. The best one was a lebanese one called Restaurant Layalina on 12, rue Juiverie.

For lunch I had a very filling pot of mussels at Brasserie le 1900, 45 rue Victor Hugo. With frites and 2 verre of wine it came to about €16.

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gracejoan, welcome back from your trip.
You ask about the bouchons that are in Lyon. These date back to the 19th century as I recall. They are simple restaurants, not tres cher that were started to feed the silk workers. They serve parts pig, sheep, calf that most restaurants hesitat to serve, on the menus are things like Andouillets, risettes. In 1997, an organization wa started to protect these original bouchons and the above must be served. The last I heard there were 21 bouchons certified. Stay away from the ones who have huge BOUCHON written. Thiose are touristy places, Café de federation that is mentioned is concidered one of the top 21.

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