Lyon & Burgundy in September
 

DW and I will arrive in Lyon via TGV on a Thursday afternoon in mid-September of 2025 and will return to Paris for the rest of the trip on the next Tuesday afternoon. It's a milestone birthday for me on the Saturday, and was leaning towards a one-star michelin restaurant in Lyon for evening dinner. Those are the three hard-points (although any Michelin restaurant would likely work) for the trip. DW wants this trip to be more food-centric (especially in Paris) and my first thought was Lyon. We've looked at a day-trip to Annecy from Lyon. We've looked at splitting time between Lyon (Thursday-Saturday) and Dijon with a trip to Beaune (Sunday-Tuesday 1/2 day) before heading back to Paris. I've rented cars several times in the past, but was hoping to keep this one to trains or tours.

With 4 full days and two half days, I'm at a loss trying to figure out an itinerary. Are any of these areas not really worthwhile for just a day or two? Should we just focus on one place? My thought was to TGV to Lyon and back from Dijon non-stops, but other thoughts would be appreciated.

Not having visited Beaune or Dijon in recent times, and never having visited Annecy, I cannot swear that they are or are not worth it. But there is plenty to keep you happy in Lyon for five nights and four full days. It is, of course, foodie heaven.

Plan carefully around the days that sights and restaurants close: some close on Sunday, some Monday, some Tuesday. This could affect your Dijon-Beaune plans, so verify when the specific places you want to include are open.

Say a bit more about your other interests and you might get more personalized advice on the best options.

September is a glorious time to be in the region.

I haven’t been to Dijon or Beaune, but loved Lyon and felt hard pressed to fit it into a four day visit. I enjoyed Annecy, but was ready to leave after a half day.

if you haven’t seen it, you might take a look at my trip report from a 2019 trip to southeastern France. My stops in Lyon and Annecy were at the end of my month in the area.

I loved my two days in Lyon last summer. The food, the different areas, the spontaneous free concerts in the evening, the hop on hop off bus, the old town, the markets, the churches and much more.

I’ve been to Annecy and I’ve been to Le Puy. For something truly unique in medieval architecture, vibrancy, geology and food, I would go to Le Puy. It is also the start of the French pilgrimage route, which makes it even more special.

We went to Annecy at the beginning of May this year and the place was a madhouse.Completely overrun. We decided not to hang around.
Maybe take a trip to Vienne from Lyon if you are interested in the Romans in France with the great Roman museum/town over the bridge. You can get there by train. A bit further down the Rhone, and also reachable by train is Tain l'Hermitage - ValRhona chocolate museum is an interesting and educative place to visit, with free samples!

Oh hey, you have five nights, let me pile on with another idea.

The second weekend in September is when Crémieu holds its Fête mediévale. Jugglers and traditional musicians wandering the streets, displays of old craft techniques, mock combat, hearty food, all in an authentically medieval setting.

Getting there not so easy: one hopes they would lay on special buses in addition to the usual sparse commuter service. Parking a rental car would also be a challenge, though we had no problem parking our bikes.

Not so much into crowds? The hilltop preserved medieval village of Pérouges is accessible from Lyon by bus + a little hike.

But if wine is an interest, yes, stick to Dijon/Beaune or Tain l’Hermitage.

Your report and its' links to your other planning posts are excellent. Your post about your planning process was reminiscent of my processes too! Thank you for linking things, they will certainly help our process.

Hetismij2 and kja, thanks for the Annecy heads up. I'm hoping that since our trip is in September and not May, that we may have better luck with crowds. One of kja's threads had something similar from Kerouac. I wonder if September is as busy?

Crémieu is an absolute delight. A medieval village where people live, work and enjoy the evenings. I spent two nights there and only scratched the surface.

Pérouges, on the other hand, is like a living museum from the time of the three musketeers. Films are shot there as it is a place where time stood still. No cars, storefronts that sell goods through their windows, rough cobblestones and whispers of life as it was before electricity and the internet.

You are welcome! Thanks for letting me know you found them helpful. 😁

September is still very much high season nowadays I'm afraid. Annecy will be even more of a mad house than it was on a very wet miserable early May day.

Hi Apersuader,
A few thoughts.
If your DW wants a more foodic emphasis, then maybe consider this trio:

1) in the 'Butte Aux Cailles' neighborhood in Paris 13e, there exists a fantastic, coop-run, funky-boho restaurant with high 'popote' value (i.e.VG home-cooking) called 'Le Temps de Cerises'. No reservations. It has left-leaning political posters, old relics, and a huge quotient of 'local' atmosphere. That neighborhood is one of the city's key street art hubs as well
.
2) the Leflaive wine-tasting experience in Puligny-Montrachet is worth crossing an ocean for. One dines on a six-course tasting menu while sampling 10 world-class dry whites (inc. our fave Meursault). The staff are friendly and witty, while the close-by vineyards are some of the most picturesque on the planet. Great bicycling path 'La Voie des Vignes' to view those vineyards. It joins the two villages.

3) Lyon has what we consider one of France's great weekend markets, there on quai St Antoine. Forget whether its Sat or Sunday. Added value: both the Braderie (pottery) plus the stamp-collecting markets are held same day close by - a great three-fer.

*bonus: Meursault holds an annual fall fest called the 'Foure Roumier de Fossy'. It is a very modest affair but give visitors a chance to sample genuine local culture. Huge steaming chestnut mares paraded through town, outdoor wine tasting (bien sur) and like that.
**bonuser: we love Beaune's dual offerings: the historic hospital Hotel Dieux plus the weekend market directly beside it.

***bonusest: when in Beaune, don't miss dining in its original cafe, Le Bistro Bourguignon. The couple that started it back in '85, just sold to new owners. But reports seem to indicate that little has changed. There is no restaurant on Earth with as many world-class wines (red & white) available by the glass as this place. The pinch marks are still there.

I am done. the end

Zebec, as to your recommendation for Le Temps de Cerises, I see that it is now located in the Marais (4th arr) and very highly rated, as well as accepting reservations. An additional location or did they move? Going over late December, but not sure we'll get to it. Probably easiest when we're at Notre Dame and Ile St Louis, and can cross over on Pont de Sully -- but unsure if that is a foot bridge -- do you know? Can grab a cab if weather not good.

As to original poster, we LOVED Dijon and Beaune, and stayed at Hotel du Nord at train station in Dijon. Drove from Paris and looped back to Paris after Beaune. September usually great month for Burgundy. I'd skip Annecy, and before/after Lyon get to Burgundy.

Alice, funny that you should mention that Marais outfit - they are not the same place and I have pointed that fact out repeatedly in our recent TRs here and elsewhere (e.g. L'Appel de Mer). One wonders how they got away with copying the name, surely in France that would be illegal, non?
I am done. the thieves

PS anyone know why 'Coco' no longer rents her cute apartment in central Dijon? Just curious. That was a popular rental for many.