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-   -   Lyme Regis vs. Weymouth vs Salisbury: Let's start with those (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/lyme-regis-vs-weymouth-vs-salisbury-lets-start-with-those-1671475/)

Dukey1 Sep 5th, 2019 02:34 PM

Lyme Regis vs. Weymouth vs Salisbury: Let's start with those
 
We would like to see Salisbury cathedral as well as some historic/"great" houses in Wiltshire/environs and the Jurassic Coast. A couple of years ago we stayed in Falmouth and enjoyed that. We will have a hire car. For a change not wanting to stay in London but rather the "countryside." We've been to the Cotswolds, Peak District, etc.

I am wondering if we will end up running all over the place trying to do too much. We can give it a week's time which is limiting but that's OK.

Budget: not an issue; time would be early to mid-September next year. I assume what we want to to do is "worth it." Going back to London for shows and museums...just don't want to do it again right now.

Suggestions helpful to help me sort this whole thing and thank you

thursdaysd Sep 5th, 2019 02:44 PM

If you go here and use the links at the top of the page, I have several posts on Lyme Regis and Weymouth: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ut-lyme-regis/

I preferred LR as a place to stay, but Weymouth is a good base. I was using public transport, you will have more flexibility with a car. If you just spend one day in Salisbury I would say you have enough time (Do you need to see Stonehenge? Avebury? Old Sarum?).

Michael Sep 5th, 2019 05:00 PM

We liked Lyme Regis. I think I wrote a trip report. Here are the pictures:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHhTjn8

MmePerdu Sep 5th, 2019 05:33 PM

I think Lyme Regis is the more atmospheric place for it's own sake. I stayed once to check it out, then again while walking the SW Coast Path. I'd be happy to go again.

I'm not fond of Salisbury the town, stayed a couple of times nearby with friends & to see places around the area that interested me. So good for a night or 2 for whatever is of interest in the neighborhood but since you'll have a car I see no reason to stay in town.

Weymouth is also on the SW Coast Path but I stayed in nearby Dorchester which I liked very much. Hardy's Cottage, his childhood home & garden, is a lovely National Trust property to visit. And Max Gate, the home he built & lived in for the rest of his life, is also on the edge of Dorchester, though I didn't know about it & very sorry I missed it.

Dukey1 Sep 5th, 2019 07:31 PM

Thanks very much for these initial replies.

Thursdaysd, I've read your posts in the past but now will read them again; Michael I will look at your pictures; MmePerdu, thanks for the additional information.

Avebury I have visited in the past.

bilboburgler Sep 6th, 2019 02:09 AM

Hi Dukey, a Salisbury visit is a long day, with Old Sarum and the Cathedral both needing a visit. I still think the view of the Cathedral from the south across the water meadows at dawn is one of the finest in the UK.

Getting around Dorset is a bit slow (though a bit better than Cornwall) so it takes time and of course, Salisbury is out of Dorset. The logical route south is either Ringwood, Poole etc or Shaftesbury, Blandford etc. Ringwood is pretty enough (Brewery can be visited) but a bit buried in new housing, along the river is pretty but the bypass is also unattractive.

Poole has a lovely harbour, a quay (a mix of a working quay, outdoor chip shop and a few high-end hotels) is not a place I'd linger. However, the mouth of the harbour (The Haven) has a floating chain bridge that takes you over to the beauty of Studland and the entrance to Swanage. The land to the east of the ferry is some of the most expensive land on the planet and it has a couple of so-so hotels (once owned by my family), you might stay here (but you live on the beach so why replace one beach view for another?). From Swanage, you can visit Corfe Castle and then head off to Lulworth and Jurassic walk etc. Alternatively, you might pass from Poole to Wareham (going anti-clockwise around the harbour) which is a nice little harbour on a river with some old houses.

If you go towards Shaftesbury you pass through a lot rolling countryside full of tumuli (old burial sites) and ancient monuments. The back road to Blandford (east of the main road) is a ridge road with spectacular views, the old odd pub and some fine walks. If you go to the west, the main road serpents following the river the views are more riparian and often dark and dank. Blandford's new ring road offers you a visit to a Brewery and the centre an odd mix of posh little houses leading down to the river. The road down to Dorchester is worthwhile and, of course, you can turn off it to Weymouth and even Abbotsbury which has its own swannery (we all need one of those) and the chance to walk down Chesil beach.
Lyme is fine, but I'd only look at it after Lulworth which is special. Dorchester is basically a ribbon development with some interesting side streets, watch out for the medal in the street which commemorates the Catholics from the area who died under a Protestant Queen. The massive earth fort to the west and Thomas Hardy/ William Barnes statues. Poundbury (Charlie's village is on the edge of town too).Puddletown (famous for the invention of the Union) and the Piddle valley are really just fun names to amuse small children.I hope this helps.

What you will find is Dorset is really about walking, views and very old mounds of earth. The local beer (the Ringwood ale brewery makes great stuff and was founded by an Uncle) is flat and served at room temperature and its most famous food is Blue Vinny (a cheese) and the Dorset Knob (no tittering at the back) which is boring little light, very hard, bun, once tasted forever avoided. If you want culture then Bournemouth might be your thing. If you are interested in crafts then the place is buried in the stuff. There is an art trail which would be worth digging out with google.

If you want more info about walks then they are everywhere and both Ordnance Survey and the web will offer you all the details and planning you might want.

Dukey1 Sep 6th, 2019 04:17 AM

Bilboburgler: what a great piece of info you have provided and thanks for it; much to consider

At the moment I am thinking of somehow basing ourselves in Lyme Regis but that is not a final decision yet.

At the moment I am almost certain we will be flying into Gatwick (from Italy) and I wish there were some reasonable way to fly to somewhere closer but it looks to be impossible. Since we really do think we will be better off with a car that means a drive from Gatwick to wherever we base ourselves. I've driven from London (Heathrow) into Norfolk as well as to the Cotswolds in the past without too much difficulty (I can drive a stick but will definitely rent an automatic) and right now, for some reason, I am just not looking forward to that and not sure why.

We rented a car for Cornwall and other places in the past; I have to get over this anxiety.

I figure we need to devote an entire day/day trip to Salisbury to try to do it some sort of "justice" and I will re-read your wonderful post several times over as I do further research. Again, thank you for your generosity.

bilboburgler Sep 6th, 2019 04:35 AM

Gatwick to Dorset along the semi-coastal road looks like a great idea, avoid it unless you want a lot of roundabout duty. Pop up to the M25 and round to M3 and drive on down it to probably the Ringwood exist to Salisbury. You could turn off earlier on the A36 and it might be ok, but if you have a traffic report system, check it and you might do better on the A338. Come back when the plans are coming together.

thursdaysd Sep 6th, 2019 05:36 AM

Where are you coming from in Italy, and going to after Dorset? Bristol might be a bit closer than Gatwick and would avoid the M25. Taking the train to Salisbury and renting a car there would save some stress. Fying to Heathrow would at least put you on the right side of London.

Dukey1 Sep 6th, 2019 11:25 AM


Originally Posted by thursdaysd (Post 16981872)
Where are you coming from in Italy, and going to after Dorset? Bristol might be a bit closer than Gatwick and would avoid the M25. Taking the train to Salisbury and renting a car there would save some stress. Fying to Heathrow would at least put you on the right side of London.

We will be finishing up in Verona (the final week of the opera festival) and I would prefer to fly from VRN itself rather than traveling to Milan to fly out of either Malpensa or Linate. If I did that latter then yes I could probably fly into Bristol which would make a lot more sense. Flying from Verona means using either British or EasyJet to Gatwick and I'd probably use EasyJet. If we were leaving on a different day of the week we might get a Flybe flight to Southampton but not going to wait days to do that. Yes, I agree, Heathrow would be a better starting position.

Right NOW I am looking at the possibility of staying in Bournemouth which may be more centrally located for the things we want to do most; giving up some of that Lyme Regis charm. I suppose we could take the train from Gatwick to Bournemouth and rent the car there which is what I would prefer so I don't have to drive back TO Gatwick.

I want to make some decisions fairly soon so I can lock down accommodation and think of other aspects.

Again, your comments and questions have been helpful.

MmePerdu Sep 6th, 2019 11:36 AM

I'll preface this suggestion by saying I always prefer countryside to cities, even more when I have a car. If you're looking for a base from which to see more than 1 place in a given area, it's often easier to not stay in a city & less confusing without the accompanying congestion. Pick up the car where it's most convenient to a train station (Salisbury is one that was not good that way tho it could have changed) and drive to an accommodation in a village or other scenic spot. That's my idea of perfect, though I realize not everyone's.

Dukey1 Sep 6th, 2019 03:28 PM

MmePerdu,

I understand your rec. After further consideration we are back to staying in Lyme Regis and awaiting a reply from the hotel regarding a booking. We will fly to Gatwick from Verona and pick up the car there unless I can figure out a place to take the train and pick up at a station. My current suspicion is I will rent and return to Gatwick., We will end this segment with a couple of nights in London after all and then fly home.

More to come and to ask about as this thing progresses.

MmePerdu Sep 6th, 2019 05:41 PM

That sounds good to me.

Dukey1 Sep 7th, 2019 02:52 AM

An update:

this morning I had an email from the hotel in Lyme Regis; room I want is available but I would have to call to reserve, IOW, cannot do so on-line. This prompted me to evaluate the choice and after looking at several YouTube videos which were made in and about Lyme Regis and included scenes of the "downtown" (as I call it), the beach, etc., and in light of Mme Perdu's comments about staying in the countryside, I decided to keep looking. Went back over the various places including Weymouth and Bournemouth again; looked at a couple of places in Dorchester which seem wonderful and then finally settled on a hotel in Evershot. Made a reservation for half board for our four nights and am happy.

I want to say again how appreciative I am of all the comments above which have been useful

Scooterr Sep 7th, 2019 06:40 AM

I think you'll enjoy Evershot more than Lyme Regis. I do think Lyme Regis is worth a visit.

My daughter lives in Dorset, so I visit annually. If you'd like a day of no driving yourself, great scenery and very interesting information on flora, fauna, and history, we've had three great tours with Gary of Jurassic Safari (http://www.jurassicsafari.co.uk). We've done the Purbeck Hills, the Golden Cap, and a custom safari. My hard-to-please grumpy DH loved it, my kids loved them, and my 8-year old grandson loved his first one and was eager to go on his second one.

Dukey1 Sep 7th, 2019 08:52 AM

Scooterr,
Thank you for this recommendation. There are plenty of days when I'd rather just sit back and listen, watch, not have to worry about driving, etc. Yeah, I know all about the "being herded" and the rest of it and I've experienced those situations but nevertheless we enjoy doing what works for us regardless of what anybody else thinks.

Dukey1 Sep 7th, 2019 10:45 PM


Originally Posted by thursdaysd (Post 16981872)
Where are you coming from in Italy, and going to after Dorset? Bristol might be a bit closer than Gatwick and would avoid the M25. Taking the train to Salisbury and renting a car there would save some stress. Fying to Heathrow would at least put you on the right side of London.

I did some further research and leaned we could rent a car from Enterprise in Dorchester after taking the train there from Gatwick. Of course the trade-off is the money paid to get to and from Dorchester on the train adds to the cost but it might be somewhat less stressful to take the train. It would be much nicer to drop the car in Dorchester and take the train back to London for certain.

Now I'm trying to figure out how far ahead I will be able to buy train tickets on line and whether or not I should buy the (I guess they are) cheaper anytime returns. I made a mistake a couple of years ago buying tickets in advance and it was too soon to get a seat reservation and got slammed here by the Matron and her friends for "not understanding" what I was doing, etc., etc. Unfortunately no real help was offered, just criticism.

bilboburgler Sep 8th, 2019 12:18 AM

https://www.seat61.com/UK-train-travel.htm

kmowatt Sep 8th, 2019 05:17 AM

I use the “Trainline” app to book rail journeys in the UK (and Europe also). Have found it easy to use and navigate. It will tell you if you can’t book as too far in advance and also shows the best fare and fastest fare. You can generally book a seat also. Easy to collect your tickets and from any station, not just your departing station.

Dukey1 Sep 8th, 2019 05:24 AM

Bilboburgler,

thank you very much

thursdaysd Sep 8th, 2019 05:46 AM

Definitely read seat61! I bought a senior rail card (gets you a third off if you are over 60) my last couple of trips, but even you qualify it probably won't save you enough if these are your only train trips.

However, interesting data. I took a look at the Gatwick-Dorchester South trip, to see just how much it was, and was surprised by the cost. But if you buy the Gatwick-Clapham Junction ticket and the Clapham Junction-Dorchester South ticket separately, you can save quite a bit. Looks like a month out may be the sweet spot and can get it down to 31.50 GBP (second class).

I'm afraid I am not very reservation-conscious when it comes to British trains. I don't travel first class either.

Forgot to mention that Enterprise should pick you up and drop you off at the train station, just as they would in the US.

Scooterr Sep 8th, 2019 06:03 AM

Dukey1, no herding involved. Just Gary and his Land Rover. Gary has permission to go off road on private land all over Dorset, so you get access to to areas and vistas most people never see. The view of Corfe Castle from the hill above is stunning.

The train from Gatwick to Dorchester takes a minimum of one change and about 3-1/2 hours. If my daughter or son-in-law can't pick me up I use a car service. Gatwick to Dorchester runs about £150, so depending on how well you do with train fares it may actually be cheaper to get a car service, not to mention a great deal easier. Let me know if you'd like recommendations for car services I've used.

Dukey1 Sep 8th, 2019 06:22 AM

Tried posting the following once and it failed so again:

thank you for the thoughts re splitting the train ticket and getting the senior railcard
That "safari" idea is appealing in many ways
I will also consider the car service instead of a car rental.

It is becoming harder for me to plan things now that my Husbear's capabilities are evolving; I am, at this point, hoping we will be able to do this trip...at all.

thursdaysd Sep 8th, 2019 08:04 AM

Sorry to hear that, Dukey1. Sympathy to Husbear!

Been there. Couldn't travel at all in 2017, and my knees gave out halfway through last year's test trip to the UK. Had to switch out a B&B with stairs in Torquay for an apartment hotel with an elevator in Bath, buses instead of tube in London, wheelchair at Heathrow. If the issue has to do with mobility do be aware that eating and drinking establishments may have their only toilets up or down stairs, sometimes narrow spiral stairs, and not all hotels have elevators.

Dukey1 Sep 8th, 2019 10:35 AM

Thursdaysd,

thank you; not so much mobility (yet) as memory issues. BTW, I know you use public transport; is there some sort of web site for the UK or an area within the UK which lists bus schedules? When I visited the stones in Avebury I took the train from London to Swindon and then the bus from the train station. It was so easy to do. I am wondering if there is some sort of bus network in Dorset; surely there must be.

MmePerdu Sep 8th, 2019 10:49 AM

Here's one:
https://www.dorsetcouncil.gov.uk/tra...transport.aspx

Google "dorset buses" for more. But this one looks pretty good.

thursdaysd Sep 8th, 2019 11:04 AM

My UK relatives recommend this site: https://www.traveline.info/

This is the company I was using in Dorset: https://www.firstgroup.com/wessex-dorset-south-somerset

I usually start with Rome2Rio and (most important) use their link to the bus company. I also use google maps (even though I otherwise avoid google) for public transport. They are especially good for cities - show you where the bus will stop, tell you what it will cost (if you're not using a pass of some kind), and you can follow the route so you'll know when to get off - but can also work for the countryside. For some reason google doesn't seem to know about ferries.

Scooterr Sep 8th, 2019 11:52 AM

https://bustimes.org/localities/evershot suggests that the only bus from Evershot goes to Beaminster.

https://www.firstgroup.com/wessex-do...s/network-maps has a link to the 51 page Summer 2019 network map for the Wessex, Dorset & South Somerset route maps. The bus from Evershot to Beaminster doesn't appear on the map, so I assume it's a different bus company.

I've ridden the Jurassic Coaster all the way from Weymouth to Lyme Regis, though not all on the same journey. As long as you don't hit the high school kids coming home from Lyme Regis to Bridport it's a delightful route.

Dukey1 Sep 8th, 2019 07:29 PM

Thanks all for the bus info/links. I remain inclined to rent the car at Gatwick and drive it to Evershot, use it to get around, and then return it.

MmePerdu Sep 8th, 2019 07:45 PM

Even though having a rental car can be nerve-wracking (for me at any rate) it pays for itself in convenience & time saved waiting for scarce buses in places not served by trains, which means almost everywhere in the countryside. I love public transport, probably because I didn't & don't have it here at home, but sometimes a car is the only practical way.

Dukey1 Sep 9th, 2019 03:02 AM

MmePerdu, thank you and in this particular case I agree. I am very happy we had a rental when we visited Cornwall and the Peak District and I'm sure once I get behind the wheel next year I'll be grateful again.


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