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Lunch in Bagno Vignone, San Quirico, or Montepulciano?

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Lunch in Bagno Vignone, San Quirico, or Montepulciano?

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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Lunch in Bagno Vignone, San Quirico, or Montepulciano?

We'll be going on a driving day to these places plus Sant'Antimo Abbey and wonder where is best to have lunch. We are starting out near Orvieto, to the south, about an hour from Bagno Vignoni, so I am guessing we'd be there too early. What about the other places?
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Good for you!
I will suggest Il Vecchio Forno in San Quirico--just a typical trattoria. Or, Grappolo Blu in Montalcino--a bit hard to find, ask the locals. Or, about 5 KM south of Montalcino you have a more upscale place with its own tasing room adjacent---named Poggio Antico. I used to suggest Taverna Barbi at the Barbi winery near St. Antimo, but it got bad press recently. Still a good place to sample wine.
From Bagno Vignoni I would take the road south to Castelnouvo dell Abate and St. Antimo and come into Montalcino from the south. Have fun ! Heer are some pics from near there.

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3827
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 01:04 PM
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Tuscan restaurants are strict about only serving lunch between 12:30 and 2:15 latest, and where you eat lunch is really best determined by where you are as the lunch hour approaches. I would have several options with you, rather than hanging around one spot because you are early for lunch but the restaurant you picked hasn't opened yet, or racing away from a town you are enjoying because you'll miss the lunch hour at the restaurant you've picked unless you leave right away.

Also, you might look on food-focused message boards like Chowhound or e-gullet, or do Google searches for countryside restaurants in the val d'Orcia instead of town restaurants. It can be easier to park at a countryside restaurant,, plus it can be especially sweet in farm country to sit outdoors at a table under an arbor, in the farm, and eat outdoors with a great view of the countryside, rather than in a town.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 01:06 PM
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Oooops ! I now see you said Montepulciano. I still like my route to include St. Antimo, but if not then you do have other options. You will pass thru Pienza---Latte di Luna is very good. If you make it all the way to Montepulciano, then we like Caffe Poliziano for lunch there. We will be going back there for a week next May.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 01:21 PM
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"Grappolo Blu "-Yummmmm
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 01:25 PM
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But, I thought Grappolo Blu wasn't open for l;unch. I also believe it's closed friday night so the owner can go dancing.
If you want a wonderful meal and experience try Ristorante La Grotta at the Montepulciano wall. Wonderful!
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 01:36 PM
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Ah yes -- I forgot to add that:

Before you head out to restaurant recommendations you got from Fodor's, check to see if these places are open. Often the people who recommend lunch here or there have never actually eaten lunch at the places they recommend! Astonishing, but true.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 01:41 PM
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Check out <B>Chapter Two - Day Seven</B> lunch (pictures, too) at link below. Osteria La Porta in Monticchiello. Still gets rave reviews on Trip Advisor.

http://web.me.com/tomfielding1/Tom_%...taly_2005.html

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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 02:26 PM
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Monticchiello fits Zeppole's criteria--in a small village, about 15-20 mins drive from Montepulciano and another similar time from Pienza, outside terrace dining, excellent food and service and reasonably priced on a range of offerings. It has a beautiful view and I can vouch for all this as we dined there recently. Its open for lunch and dark on Thursday.
www.osterialaporta.it Best to make a reservation although we had pranzo on the terrace by being flexible.

Bagno Vignone, San Quirico and Montepulciano is a full day if starting in Orvieto--perhaps you could strike out for Montepulciano first, lunch at La Porta and then move on to your other points of interest. Lots to see, do and eat--have fun! Paul
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 02:49 PM
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I heartily disagree with Bob's idea of Caffe Polizano for lunch. A lovely Liberty-era cafe, it cannot hold a candle with some of the more winning trattorie in the region. And you certainly do not want to navigate parking in Montepulciano to eat there when there are so many other options nearby.

I echo the advice to book ahead; I got the last table in Latte di Luna for lunch.... on a January weekday.

La Porta was recommended to me before my last trip; I wish I had had time to dine there!

Do take the time to browse some of the food sites.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 03:01 PM
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La Porta does look appealing --- Worth a detour, and if it avoids parking hassles in Montepulciano, that's great. Thanks for the ideas.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 03:34 PM
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charnees, I had lunch in Montepulciano, at Borgobuio restaurant, which is actually a bit upscale for lunch, but good; and I suffered the restaurant in Bagno Vignoni, on the terrace by the main square (or rather: by the main pool). While I love Bagno Vignoni and think it's absolutely enchanting, the food at that equally enchanting restaurant was abominable. Definitely stay away! (A good example that one shouldn't simply dine with a view. Either a view, or fine food.)
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 03:40 PM
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"(A good example that one shouldn't simply dine with a view. Either a view, or fine food.)"

Except at La Porta you get a great view (request an outside table) and terrific food. The photo of the countryside in my blog talking about the restaurant was taken from the patio. You park at a little lot below town and walk up the hill.

Another great restaurant that has good food and a view is Ristoro di Lamole near Greve.

franco, I also had a less-than-stellar meal in Bagno Vignoni. It's a cute town, however, and remember, no swimming allowed!!!

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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 03:44 PM
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Ah yes--so easy to throw rocks.
I have eaten at all of those, Zeppole. All you suggest is to do web research. Do not comment if you have nothing useful to add.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 03:51 PM
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I know, Tom, La Porta has a very good reputation. Unfortunately, I didn't make it there. No, I didn't skip it deliberately just because they have a view. I didn't know about the view, that's why. Just kidding.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 04:45 PM
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franco, the thing I liked about the view from la Porta was it could have been a painting of the Tuscan countryside. My photography does not give the view its just due. All these posts make me miss Italy even more!

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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 04:53 PM
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Il Tainaio (I hope I spelled this correctly) in San Quirico. We stayed in Pienza and went to Il Tainaio twice because the food was so good. Best spaghetti sauce I've ever had.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 05:04 PM
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Il Tinaio (pretty sure this correct spelling) was indeed good, Nancy.

Ribollita was fantastic, too.

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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 05:11 PM
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Maitaitom, thanks for the spelling correction. I didn't have my notes in front of me. I would go back to this restaurant and stay in Pienza because it's so centrally located to visit Tuscany and Umbria. Il Tinaio is the only restaurant that was memorable.
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 05:33 PM
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We loved la Porta too, even though we didn't get a table with a view. It was quite busy and we were lucky to get in.

It is good to have a plan though. The day we went to Sant Antimo it had just closed for several hours over lunch, so we went looking for lunch ourselves. I can't remember where we ate, but we stopped in several small towns with no restaurants before we hit on a spot.
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