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-   -   Looking for two bases in northern Italy (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/looking-for-two-bases-in-northern-italy-1209791/)

lreynold1 Mar 2nd, 2017 04:28 AM

Looking for two bases in northern Italy
 
Last October, my husband and I had a fabulous 20 day trip to Sicily, and it got us hooked on Italy. We have time again this year for a 2-3 week trip, probably over the Christmas-New Year holidays and are thinking about northern Italy. I would like to settle on two one-week bases, and then maybe a few nights each in Milan and Venice. Bologna seems to be one obvious place, and I've read a lot of the reports here. What about another one? It also seems like there are a lot of easy and obvious day trips, so would it even make sense to have two weeks in Bologna and do a lot of day trips from there?

In Sicily we rented a car and it was fine. But it looks to me like a car might not be necessary, or that it even might be a hindrance, if we are planning to mainly visit towns and cities. Not anticipating a lot of countryside walking given the time of year!

All suggestions welcome. Thanks, fodorites, you really helped me with your suggestions for Sicily!

neckervd Mar 2nd, 2017 04:52 AM

I suppose you know that in December, there is often big fog over the whole Val Padana, from Turin up to Padua.
Turin last winter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjhNOuByP3k

If you are interested in museums, palaces, churches, concerts, thatrical performances, etc., winter is fine as there are much less tourists.

There are many charming transport hubs in Northern Italy. Tell us what you are interested in, it will then be easier to make some suggestions.

thursdaysd Mar 2nd, 2017 05:37 AM

I really enjoyed Turin.

My TR: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...njoying-turin/

The TR that inspired me to go there:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-of-italy.cfm

I don't drive in Europe if I can possibly avoid it, and had no difficulty in northern Italy.

pgriffin Mar 2nd, 2017 06:23 AM

I would highly recommend the Ligurian coastline. I am not sure about spending a week anywhere but you could spend 3 or 4 days in the Cinque Terre and the same in Genoa. Manarola is probably the best town to base yourself in the CT. You can walk to the other towns and it is just a beautiful place.

I am not sure what it would be like in winter time but when I was there in June it was heaven on earth.

frencharmoire Mar 2nd, 2017 07:55 AM

December daylight hours are short, and much of Northern Italy still observes afternoon closings of shops, so factor that in when you are looking for a base for day trips.

December is one of the better times of year to spend in Venice, since crowds are so low. If you've never been before, you might want to spend more than a few days there. It is possible to use Venice as a base for visiting other cities, in particular Padova, Ferrara, Vicenza, Treviso and Verona.

Bologna makes a good base for day trips to Modena, Florence, Ferrara, Milan, and Ravenna. For 2 whole weeks you'd probably start looking to go further afield, and with the short daylight hours, the longer train trips can really eat into the sightseeing day.

I have been in northeastern Italy in December and taking trains is preferable to driving, because of weather issues. However it makes sense to budget for taxis to take you from many of the train stations to the historic center. If it isn't cold many area a doable walk. But in the cold, rain (or snow -- it happens), a taxi is much nicer and seldom more than approximately 5 euros.

Finally, nice as northern Italy is, I have also been in Rome and Naples in December and the weather was downright pleasant many days. There is no end of things to see in these cities, plus there are easy day trips to take. On a sunny windless December day in Napol it is even possible to go to Capri or enjoy the Amalfi coast for lunch and gawk at the views. Pompeii is there as well. Christmas prices for lodgings tick upward for Rome, but they are cheap for Napoli.

lreynold1 Mar 2nd, 2017 05:51 PM

Thanks so much for the replies. YES @neckervd - a "charming transport hub" is what I had in mind.

I love romanesque, byzantine, and older, churches, so Ravenna and Modena are on the list. We also like to go to museums, historical sites, and a LOT of walking.

I was in Venice for a few days years ago, more than 40 in fact! @frencharmoire suggested using it as a base. My idea was that it would be better to just go to Venice for three or four nights and then move on, but If it would be a good base for visiting other places, maybe we would spend 8-10 days there and travel from there.

The video of the flooding in Turin is pretty amazing. On the theory that lightening doesn't strike twice in the same place, I've left it on the list, but it does seem a bit remote to use as a hub.

Our goal is not to "see everything." We like to be active but that's not because we're pushing to visit every place for ten minutes, but rather because once we're there we want to get out and about, if that makes sense. Thanks again, everyone.

frencharmoire Mar 3rd, 2017 08:32 AM

I wouldn't be concerned in the slightest about flooding in Turin. You'd have plenty of warning of the rising river. But it is really not surrounded by interesting places that area easily reached by train, and the chance of snow is a factor.

Whether you stay 3 days or 10 days in Venice, the risk of flooding in some parts of the city is quite high, so be sure to avoid staying in the low lying areas, which are mostly around San Marco. I think you can find maps online of the areas that get the most high tides flooding the streets and creeping into the first floors of buildings.

Another possibility if you are not keen for days on end in Venice is that you might consider is extending your days in Milan to use it as a base for day trips. There are some really fine smaller towns near Milan -- Pavia, Bergamo, Lodi, Crema, Piacenza -- that would make for terrific day trips, very easy to get to by train. They're gems. Milan itself has quite interesting historic churches and museums tucked among the modern cityscape.

sundriedtopepo Mar 3rd, 2017 09:14 AM

Several Fodorites posted this past holiday season about how busy Venice was over Christmas New Year's. I believe both St Cirq and marvellousmouse.

neckervd Mar 3rd, 2017 09:22 AM

Ravenna, Classe, Abbazia di Pomposa, Mantova, Cremona, etc. are all fine places. Winter and fog will be the problem.
May be you could check places like Aosta, Trento and Bolzano/Bozen too; there is usually more sun in winter than in the Po Plain.
Don't underestimate Turin. With all the museums and palaces, there is stuff for at least 2 days.

frencharmoire Mar 3rd, 2017 01:35 PM

I have traveled in Emilia-Romagna in the winter fog and it was lovely. Especially in Ferrara, but also looking out the train windows. You don't see anything, and then suddenly a town or a building begins to take shape, and or appears almost in a flash, and then is swallowed up again. There is no need to drive in that area even if it is sunny.

Unless you want to ski or snowshoe, why go to the ski resorts?

Turin is a wonderful town and if you want to go there, don't let me stop you. But using it as a base for day trips is problematic because of the paucity of interesting destinations reeachable by train, and driving in Piemonte in winter can be tricky. Short daylight hours, lots of twisty roads, possibility of ice and snow or rain. It can be done, and determined truffle eaters do it, but first identify how much there is within Turin that you would want to see compared with other options.

lreynold1 Mar 3rd, 2017 02:39 PM

Ok, I am now armed with lots of good suggestions. Time for some serious research. Thanks, fodorites, I will report back!

jamikins Mar 3rd, 2017 03:14 PM

We spent 9 nights in Venice over NYE this past season and loved it. It was busy but you only have to get off the main thoroughfares and it is empty.

You can see our pics here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gi...57674400954854

We are also a big fan of Bologna, lots of great day trips, but also a lovely city. Pics here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gi...57634399182853

lreynold1 Mar 3rd, 2017 03:50 PM

Thanks jamikins, it was actually your Bologna posts that sold me on Bologna. I still have a lot of reading to do, but I am currently thinking 4 nights Venice, 8 nights Bologna, 8 nights Milan. Day trips from Bologna and Milan.

Any apt. recommendations in Venice and Milan?

jamikins Mar 3rd, 2017 03:52 PM

We rented here in Venice and would recommend it

http://www.palazzettodaschio.it

packed Mar 3rd, 2017 08:22 PM

Have you considered Verona as a base? It's a good transportation hub for trains, centrally located between Venice and Milan and Bologna. It's not a large town, but very manageable and a lovely town.


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