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Looking for good food, wine, peace & ambiance in Greece

Looking for good food, wine, peace & ambiance in Greece

Old Feb 19th, 2010, 11:19 AM
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Looking for good food, wine, peace & ambiance in Greece

I'm celebrating my 40th birthday this year and have decided that Greece is the perfect place to forget. I've just started gathering info for a two week trip mid-Sept 2010. I would love any and all input from experts and fellow travelers. Based on what I've picked up reading the forums, I'm thinking of splitting the trip into two destinations, maybe Santorini & Paros, but even on Santorini I can't decide between Imerovigli and Oia. Any and all thoughts, advice, travel tips, etc. are appreciated. I hope I'm not asking too much, but there's so much incredible information here, I figured it can't hurt!

Here's what we're looking for:
My husband and I (age 40 & 42) are looking to stay somewhere peaceful & charming with a nice view and comfortable room. Private balcony would be amazing if within our budget (ideally about $150 USD/nt but open to more if it's worth it). I like spending time relaxing in my room & hopefully enjoying a nice view, so the room needs to be clean and attractive, though not huge or fancy. We can spend days walking thru cute towns, stopping in a tavern for a drink, eating at casual restaurants with good food and not huge crowds. We keep to ourselves mostly and aren't looking to meet people although we're friendly and enjoy conversing with others. We don't mind walking into town (like if we stayed in Imerovigli and had to walk the "donkey trail" to Fira). We require very little nightlife and prefer quiet evenings. We're active and healthy and would enjoy snorkeling, cycling, hiking but are just as content strolling through back streets and taking in the scenery.

Mostly, I'd like to get a feel for Greece as it's my first trip there but not try to see/do too much. We like to settle into a place as much as possible in a short time. Also, any travel advice on getting there from San Diego would be great. That's all I can think of for now! Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 19th, 2010, 01:11 PM
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Hi, G-G:
About Oia Rooms -- BrotherleeLove the expert on this can give you a big list of hotels in Oia that are at or near your budget; some Santorini hotels lower their rates from High Season to "shoulder season" in Mid September, others not. Your $150 is really about €110 these days, and could be €100 by Autumn, who knows ... best if you quote in Euros because that's how the moderate-price hotels quote on their website etc. Oia is lovely of course, though in the middle of the day it's invaded by cruise-groups ... the crowd thins out about 4 ... but then another group comes because they've heard that this is the only place to watch a sunset (not so, but publicized). So if you're in Oia, you should have a balcony or shared terrace for sundown sitting, because the rimside paths are crowded, standing room, even in Sept.

Take a look at Firostephani ... quiet at night but walkable to Fira. Imervogli, you must wait for a bus or taxi a lot, because there's really not much there except lodgings. That trail is, like miles, from Imervogli to Fira OR Oia. At Firostephani, take a look at Blue Dolphins, VIlla Ilias, Villa REmvi, Sun Rocks, Agnadema Apartments. Many of the websites quote exact price. Also, I advise you Google for Trip Advisor reviews of any places that interest you.

Cycling is difficult to find on most Cycladic islands; after atll, they are really the tips of "drowned mountains" so are quite hilly except at shoreline, and so there are few cycle shops. For hiking opportunities click this: http://www.cycladen.be/IntroductionEng.htm
This man has devoted his life to finding, walking and photographing the very best hiking & walking routes in the Cyclades. Among those he likes most are Sifnos, Naxos and Kea.

If you really do like 'back streets" and "cute towns" and authentic Greek villages, and you say you want to "get a feel for Greece" you really should be looking at places like Sifnos,
Milos and Naxos. Santorini has a unique view which is a must-see for first-timers ... it also has a lot of night-life, jewelry stores, and cruise crowds that you must make efforts to avoid. In other islands, especially in September, nothing like that... the Greeks just go about their lives, in their small villages, and you can stroll through their back streets and be as alone as you like. To me, you sound like Milos/Sifnos kinds of people. Instead of locking yourself in to a long stay in one place, why not sample 3? Island-hopping is famous in Greece because that's the ultimate Greek holiday experience. Don't miss it.

Here's an interesting website about the islands, noncommercial, done by a young Greek schoolmaster, lots of photos, not wordy, candid -- it may give you a visual feeling for what you'd like: http://www.greek-islands.us/

What kind of plane travel? Well it depends on what your itinerary is. Many people like to get to an island as quickly as possible, ideally not stopping in athens at the start ... because you'll have to be at Athens at the end, to make sure of not missing your return flight.
To do this, it's handy to get into Athens airport in the MOrning -- and that means taking a flight that is nonstop from the US or Canada: Delta from NY, Continental from Newark or US Air from PHila. These come in between 9 - 10 am & you can get a domestic flight to your island (rather than a 5 - 7 hour ferry). Other flights that come in around 2 or 3 pm are ones that connect in Europe, with SwissAir or Lufthansa. I don't recommend flights that involve Air France because ChasDeGaulle airport is a nightmare.
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Old Feb 19th, 2010, 01:18 PM
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All that being said, I want to reiterate that Santorini is a must-see, and I always come there with my travel companions, I've been there 4 x for short periods, and am coming again in May. It's just that I recommend also visiting a more typically Greek island or 2, as well, not as many brides & Americans... here's a good overview of Sifnos: http://www.igogreece.com/EN/Greece.a...a=areas&id=127
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Old Feb 19th, 2010, 03:22 PM
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Looks like you are thinking just the Islands? I did a classic tour on the mainland and then went to Crete and Santorini. Next to Santorini, Delphi was one of the most beautiful places I saw in Greece and a place I would like to return to; Santorini was beautifu, but for me, once was enough. We stayed in Oia and I didn't even need to leave the balcony to enjoy myself.

We also loved Chania on Crete. While there, I stayed in the old town a few night and then moved to the Ammos, which is on the beach. Would highly recommend that hotel if you are looking to spend any time on the beach.
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Old Feb 19th, 2010, 04:21 PM
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Thank you so much travelerjan and Jackie for your input & all the specific info. I can't get over how many incredible places there are to go and things to see in Greece. The more research I do, the more confused I get.

That's good to know that the walk from Imervogli is really a trek. I read a lot of reviews on TripAdvisor and had a hard time getting a firm grasp of it because of all the different points of view. I do like to be near enough town to meander in for dinner and back home, safely, at night.

In Oia is there a good time to go to avoid most of the cruise traffic, or do they stop every day at all hours? From the sounds of it, it's likely I would be quite happy sitting on the balcony for days enjoying the views, but I'd like to know we could shmooze town in peace.

I'll keep reading those recommended websites and checking back here until it all comes together. Thanks again!
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Old Feb 19th, 2010, 08:20 PM
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G-G, glad to be of help. About Santorini, a good map can be of some help. Here is One. http://www.santorini-web.com/map.pdf Do you see where Imervogli is vs. Oia & Fira. As far as Firostephani goes, it is not on this map, I think because it is not incorporated. But look at the numbers. Number 11 shows the stairs down to the old port ... and beyond that #10 is a monastery; Firostephani begins there. Quiet yet convenient, you can walk 15 minutes down the rimside path to Fira town.

You will have to ask BrotherleeLove when to find Oia without crowds. I have been there in May and September... there are fewer people around before 9:30 in the morning, and after 3, until it gets nearer sunset which in Sept I think is about 7 pm.

If you're feeling confused its probably because you're trying to do all your research on the internet. That's like trying to drink out of a fire hose. Get a guide book. If you don't want to buy one, go to the library. It doesn't matter if it's last year's edition because you're not looking at it for restaurant prices. Or go browse Barnes & Noble, find the ones that appeal to you, then either buy one, or seek it in a library. Look at EYEWITNESS: the GREEK Islands.. thats a very visual overview. That may help. And, in helping you make up your mind, you could do a lot worse athatn the Fodor's guide to Greece, ahem.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 04:38 PM
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travelerjan, that's about the most hilarious and apt metaphor I've ever heard! I promise I'll head to a book store and stop drinking from the fire hose.

I'm not a big island hopper because I suffer from motion sickness, so the less boat/small plane travel the better. It just wears me out and I lose a lot of time. I'm thinking now to stay in Firostephani for a few days, Oia for another few and then head to another island. That map of Santorini is a huge help, and that review of Sifnos makes me want to cry it sounds so perfect. I'm relaxing now as I get the feeling it's hard to make a bad decision. Every place sounds more incredible than the next. Ahhh, can't wait.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 05:07 PM
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G=G. glad I could be of help!

I think you'll do fine if you head to Santorini with an open-ended agenda... reserve for 3 days or so, then see how you feel. By August, the ferry schedule will be complete for September for ferries leaving from Santorini for Sifnos, and you can see which days are your options.

How? just go to http://www.gtp.gr/RoutesForm.asp Type the 2 islands into "Port" and "Destination", leave year at 2010 but leave month & day at "any". That way you see the whole PATTERN of service -- right now Sept shows Thursdays & saturdays. PLUS - Click on the little line "More information" and you see a picture of the actual BOAT.

About your sea-tummy (and you should know it's good to share things like that up front, before people start working scenarios for you) -- I don't know if you're familiar with how BIG and how STABLE the usual Greek ferries (not the fast-ferries which are catamarans). The "regular" ferries are huge -- carry 1200-1800 passengers & 250 cars/trucks. Most times, it's smoother than a train, you don't know you are moving. Also, lots of open decks to sit, sunbathe, feel the breeze. A further thought -- if you don't want to ferry back to the Mainland, from Sifnos you can do a 1 hour hop to MILOS, which has an AIRPORT. Why Milos? well... it's gorgeous .... there's a guy who fell in love with it & now lives there & has a website that tells the world why .. take a look you'll die!http://www.milosisforlovers.com/

To my mind, the perfect antidote to forty-dom is 5 days Santorini, 4 days Sifnos, 3 days Milos, 2 days Athens. The only problem? After that, you have to go home
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 06:07 PM
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I would HIGHLY recommend staying in Oia in Santorini - it is a bit more expensive than the other sections of Santorini, but in my opinion it is TOTALLY worth it. It is the most picturesque "town" in Santorini - I went in early June which is considered high season and did not really find an issue with the crowds. The sunset viewpoint does get crowded at during the sunset time each day, but other than that, I found the crowds very manageable - you can always find a quiet spot and we enjoyed buying some Greek food at local markets and bringing it back to our room for a beautiful dinner on our private balcony (we stayed at Esperas, but that may be out of your budget). I do recall brotherlee love on this board having some great tips on more reasonable places in Oia - search for some of his older posts...

We stayed in Santorini/Oia for 4 nights and while we found it sufficient time to explore the island, of course it is always nice to stay longer...Definitely head to Amoudi Bay which is gorgeous and has some really good seafood restaurants.

For a real treat, look into taking a half day trip on Captain Ted's yacht to visit the caldera, the hot springs and have a traditional Greek lunch with some wine on board. You pass the Red Beach, White Beach, and other beautiful sites along the way. AMAZING trip - special experience...We did a half day with a group to save some $$$ - there are full day and private trips available as well, but they were pretty pricey. I saw Captain Ted featured on Giada's Paradise show on the Food Network before travelling to Greece, and then someone else from Greece recommended we take the trip as well, so we decided to do it. WELL worth every penny!!!


We took a high speed ferry from Santorini to Crete and stayed in Chania, also visiting Elofonisi beach was the MOST amazing beach I have ever seen...Even coming from San Diego, I think you would appreciate it...You should not experience motion sickness on the high speed ferry as it is very stable.

You will LOVE Greece!! It is truly one of my favorite places on the planet! Enjoy and have fun!
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 07:40 PM
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We stayed at the Aspa Villas in Oia (I would say its the end of Oia closer to the other towns). It was right next to a wine shop, and 3 of the 4 nights we had a nice bottle of wine, some cheese and olives with our caldera view in a cave house. I think it might be a bit above your budget but we enjoyed the pool. Closeby is Taverna Mou which we loved for its atmosphere (another brotherleelove recommendation). we often walked the length of Oia and found it was crowded but nothing like the bustle of Fira during the day.
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Old Feb 20th, 2010, 08:07 PM
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It's Santorini Mou Taverna........
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Old Feb 21st, 2010, 06:41 PM
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alldaytravel,

Should we book Captain Ted's ahead of time or can you wait until you get to the islands. We will be there in July.

Thanks!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2010, 02:48 PM
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OK, I feel like I'm getting somewhere thanks to all of you And I happened across brotherleelove's Oia post on igogreece and am convinced it's the place to start our adventure.

kak113 - Thank you for the rec of Aspa. Wine, olives & view from our little cave house with conveniently located casual dining is exactly what we're looking for. If you don't mind my asking, how did the cave house rates compare with the room/studio rates? Based on what you saw, would you recommend staying at the studios if the cave houses are out of my price range?

I was also looking at Old Oia Houses, if anyone has any opinions about staying there.

Travelerjan I like your itinerary, which puts me on Milos for the flight to Athens and I also like the idea of leaving the trip open after Santorini. It's a relief to know the ferries are stable. I survived the ferry from Vancouver to Victoria, but not Long Island to Catalina Island. So much depends on the ferry, the gas fumes, weather, etc. This seems like the perfect location and time of year for a little spontaneous travel adventure and I'd hate for my tummy to hold me back!

I want to thank all of you for your input. Although it's a lot to take in, hearing about all the wonderful things to see and do actually makes it seem much simpler and helps take the stress out of planning.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2010, 08:40 PM
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It's good to sense some relief, in your posting. Things will work out just fine .. you'll see! And about the ferries -- I've taken the Vancouver ferry, and these are waay bigger, and I've never smelled gas fumes on one. Happy upcoming birthday!
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Old Feb 25th, 2010, 01:48 PM
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Travelerjan (or anyone else), do you know if Oia is busier on weekends than weekdays?

As for Oia lodgings, I think I've narrowed it down to Aspa Villas, Delfini, or Strogili. Can anyone comment on the hotels listed based on my list of things I'm looking for:

My must-have list is: great caldera view, attached balcony or terrace, kitchenette/fridge, quiet, clean, airy room, convenient walk to town/restaurants. Friendly staff/ family-run would be nice (seems like a given from most reviews)

Would-be-nice but not required list: on-site jacuzzi, breakfast.

Price range seems about €90 and up, but does anyone know the price range for mid-late September? Also, if you have a favorite place, is there a "best room" I should request?
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Old Feb 25th, 2010, 02:34 PM
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During the summer tourist season every day is the weekend. I doubt that you'll notice a significant difference in the population unless you happen to be there during a public national holiday, when it would be busier.
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Old Feb 25th, 2010, 02:42 PM
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The prices change from low to middle to high to middle to low season. These dates are usually mentioned on the individual hotel websites and the dates vary from hotel to hotel.

I believe you will have to contact Strogili for their prices but they will be significantly more than €90, even in September. Their cheapest double room last September was €156.

If you plan to stay at least 5 days ask for a 'long stay' discount. Some hotels will give it to you, especially since business has been slow the last 2 seasons.
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Old Feb 25th, 2010, 04:43 PM
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I stayed at Strogili in May of 2008 and it meets your requirements, and bfast is included. It doesn't have a jacuzzi but it does have a very nice pool shared with Rimida villas next door (both of these are small places and it's a good sized pool).

We stayed in a 1-bdrm cave house apt. which had a little more room to spread out, but they also have studios, all of which have kitchenettes afaik, and all have terraces. The studios are less private because people do walk by on the stairs, but it's a small place with little traffic walking by.

It's a short walk into Oia (7-8 minutes maybe?) and very quiet. It doesn't feel like a hotel, it feels like a rented apt. because there is no real "lobby" and you walk directly down the stairs to your room (which is true of many places in Oia). Bfast is brought to your terrace each morning so you can eat in privacy, with nothing but your spectacular view to keep you company.

Delfini also looked very nice and was cheaper, and the only reason we chose Strogili was the pool. My friend is a swimmer and was happy to have it all to herself.
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Old Feb 25th, 2010, 04:46 PM
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PS: I said that all the studios at Strogili have terraces, but be sure to request "caldera view" specifically. All the rooms I saw had terraces with caldera view, but there might be a couple that face a courtyard, I'm not sure about that.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2010, 05:19 PM
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aack. Okay, holding horses. Kook alert. Whatever you want to call it, I'm changing my plans. I was temporarily romanced by Oia, but I think Travelerjan is right about us being Milos/Sifnos people with a little Naxos on the side, so I'll be doing some more research and surely be back with more questions. Thanks everyone for your input - sorry!
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