London Report, brief, February '13
 

We had a wonderful time in London. Ate everything there was to eat, and saw a terrific performance by the Deborah Colker Dance
Company. I'm the biggest dance fan I know, but if anyone gets the chance to see their Tatyana, I recommend it. The second act was brilliant.

Now let's talk about the Barbican. Curses on that place. The most cold and soulless, as well as uncomfortable theater complex I've ever been in. The Barbican makes the Kennedy Center seem downright cozy. We were in fire hazard seating, trapped in a long gallery with no middle exits at all, and no room for knees let alone entire bodies with winter coats and gear.

I'm going to assume that the Barbican has great sound going for it, because otherwise, it needs to be torn down. I welcome opposing views.

Saw three fabulous photography shows, including Man Ray Portraits, and also saw the Manet show at the Royal Academy. Paid our first visit to the Wallace Collection. Such a collection...

Places we ate: Medlar (fabulous); the Harwood Arms (fabulous food, service a bit short on what the prices would have one expect); lunch at Pierre Koffman (a very very good deal for such nice food and service); Bistrot Bruno Loubet (great food; too glamorous and buzzy but still fun); the Wolseley (where I saw RUFUS SEWELL, and I'm a big fan) and two delicious meals at downmarket favorites, Tayyabs for Indian and Masters Super Fish for fish and chips. We had reservations for Zucca on Saturday night, but had already eaten way too much, so stayed in, watched television, and had sandwiches. Through the week we had many many treats from Paul, Borough Market, and Fortnum and Mason's, which we were having a hard time staying out of.

We did not make our day trip to Cambridge, as I was too tired.

The little apartment we rented was very nice, and although I probably wouldn't spend that much again, I would recommend it to anyone, especially with winter discounts. I was looking for a little luxe, and got it.
http://www.londonperfect.com/apartme...tudio-loft.php

I should let you know it's all your fault I went to London for three nights last weekend. Caught the very last night of the Rufus Sewell/Kristin Scott Thomas play.

Was he dreamy?

Seeing Rufus Sewell would be such a delight! Lucky you!

He was indeed. But I wasn't as close as you were.

I was only kind of joking, btw. I saw your posting that you had seen him in person which spurred my investigation. I figured I could go the final weekend. KST being in the play was a bonus, and when I also found out that Helen Mirren was in her own play, I thought Trifecta! I had already bought my plane tickets when I found out about The Audience though.

How did you like the Manet exhibit? I was thisclose, in fact I went to the Royal Academy and when I saw the line I planned to come back later. I wasn't too exercised over missing it because I saw a big Manet exhibit in Paris almost two years ago - this would have been nice to see again for sure, but I didn't fit it in.

I finally visited F&M, too, after umpty ump visits to London. I have rhubarb curd and lemon curd stash now. Did you buy anything there to bring home or did you eat it all in London?

Your apartment looks very cute!

flygirl

I did like the Manet exhibit, but I had also seen that one in Paris two years ago. One of the rooms of this RA show was filled with his paintings of fellow artists and literary figures of the day, and that was very cool. I love love love Manet's painting of Berthe Morisot with Violets. Yikes. Also a painting featuring George Meredith, a figure I have an interest in. I like the RA, so it was worth the visit.

On our repeated trips to F&M we bought a donut (just OK), chocolates for our daughter, little magic balls of balsamic vinegar and ones made of soy sauce, in a jar, as gifts. We bought our grandson an amazing book that was a castle. For ourselves we bought things for the apartment: cheese, sticky toffee pudding and clotted cream. We had to eat all that, but I got a big tea towel that I love.

I forgot jam. I got jam, too.

"I did like the Manet exhibit, but I had also seen that one in Paris two years ago"

The "Manet: Portraying Life" exhibition hadn't previously been on in Paris. It was actually devised, first mounted and adapted for touring by the Toledo (Ohio) Museum of Art, and has been a source of immense Ohio pride. It wasn't designed to be an exhaustive exhibition of Manet's work, but a very focused set of insights into his portraits of contemporaries, with background about his subjects and their relationships with each other rarely seen at blockbusters like this.

The Musee d'Orsay's "Inventeur du Moderne" show in 2011 was designed as the definitive review of the man and was completely different from the Toledo curation. There were relatively few works in common between the two, and some of the apparent absences at the RA (because they were irrelevant to the Toledo theme) upset visitors who'd assumed this was going to be the Orsay exhibition.

Indeed, the most common visitor reaction seems to have been disappointment this wasn't what they'd not got round to seeing while it was on in Paris.

We have been to the Wolseley several times, but no celebrity sightings alas. It's a lovely restaurant.

For a very good value meal, try Brasserie Zedel, from the same owners. It's a large, Parisian style brasserie (think La Coupole), close to Piccadilly Circus. Great for pre-theare dining.

I keep hearing about Medlar. Can you tell us about it?

Thanks for the report, getting in the mood for a trip there this summer.

Fun report--thanks for sharing great places and not so great places1--

travelgirl2: Medlar was a real favorite. Nice room, plenty of space around tables, excellent service and ambiance. The price was what I would consider reasonable (different from the Harwood Arms which I thought was expensive). However, we are too old and addled to remember any dishes other than that we ordered what they talked about on chowhound.com. We both recall that it was delicious.

travelg: I had the raviolio and my husband had fish. If we remember more, I'll report back.

At The Wolseley I had a smoked salmon appetizer and my husband had oysters and maybe a terrine. We both had desserts. It was after the Barbican, so we didn't want an entire meal.

TFL: i love that you are "too old and addled" to remember what you ate! So are we! And I remember sooo many meals from earlier trips. Now, if I don't write it down, it's gone from memory.