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LONDON - LINCOLN - LAKES - HADRIAN - GLASGOW - DRAFT #1

LONDON - LINCOLN - LAKES - HADRIAN - GLASGOW - DRAFT #1

Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:12 AM
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LONDON - LINCOLN - LAKES - HADRIAN - GLASGOW - DRAFT #1

Hello all,

We are planning a trip to Britain in June, partly to visit cousins and friends, partly to visit new places. Here is a first draft of our plans with a few specific questions. All suggestions very welcome.

Day 1: arrive London from Montreal. Check in to Montague Gardens hotel, a junior suite with the 3-nights-for-2 special; our splurge for the trip
Still surveying which of the 1,000 great things in London we will visit. Likely: Soane House, British Library, British Museum, try to find a concert perhaps at St. Martin-in-the-Fields or Royal Albert Hall; lunch in St Martin one day

2: London: lunch at the Middle Temple – must remember to pack coat and tie!

3: London: more, more

4: Lincoln by train: about a 2.5 hours; we love trains, shall take many on this trip.
Stay at Premier Inn. Connect with cousins coming from the Birmingham area. Cathedral, castle, bishop’s house

5: Lincoln: more

6: Penrith by train: about 4.5 hours from Lincoln. Pick up rental car, drive to Keswick

7: Keswick: more of north Lakes country

8: return car to Penrith, train to Hexham, about 1.5 hours. Pick up rental car in Hexham, settle in somewhere; commence touring Hadrian’s Wall: Housesteads, Vindolanda, Roman Museum

9: Hexham, continue touring wall area

10: return rental car in Hexham … or keep it and tour part of Borders? Stay at Traquair House (ouch goes the budget, another splurge?)?

11: more Borders? Or if we have left the car in Hexham, we could take the train from Hexham to Stirling (but that’s a 4 hour train ride) and meet up with our friends coming over from St. Andrews.

12: Glasgow: [We have visited Edinburgh on a previous trip, want to visit the other big city.] Premier Inn center. This day and the next: do Mackintosh! School of Art, tour of reconstruction after the fire. Wander Merchant City. Burrell Collection.

13: Glasgow: New Lanark? We’re intrigued by reading about Owen’s model city.

14: morning return flight to Montreal

So that’s the general idea. As you can see, the draft becomes iffy after Lincoln as we approach the Lakes district. Here are some specific questions:

1. Has anyone eaten lunch in the Middle Temple? It sounds spectacular, one of the finest, and one of the few, Elizabethan structures to have survived the London Fire. Impressions?
2. Montague Gardens in London: worth it?
3. Lincoln: there’s very little in these forums about this city. The cathedral looks spectacular. We love English cathedrals, have visited York, Durham, Christ Church, Bath Abbey, Ely. The city certainly seems to merit a two-night visit.
4. The Lake district: I have read that the northern area has more rugged scenery than the south and is less congested in the summer. A car seems a necessity. We’re thinking of the smallest car (manual shift) possible since the roads are so narrow. Is this correct?
5. Hexham: any b&b suggestions for this area?
6. Traquair: if we do keep the car from Hexham, would Traquair be a good base for slowly driving around this part of the Borders? We would have to drive back to Hexham to drop off the car.
7. From Hexham we would face a 4 hour train ride with transfer to get to Stirling. Perhaps not worth it?
8. Glasgow: not much on these forums but the city seems to have some treasures and would provide a good contrast to the rural areas we would have been visiting. Has anyone been to New Lanark?
9. Pubs: meat pies with gravy and pints of bitter are a high priority for us. Any suggestions for any of the places after London?

Many thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:29 AM
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If it was me, I'd drive from Lincoln to Keswick because it affords you the opportunity of going through some of the Yorkshire Dales on your way to the Lakes.

I would also keep the car until Glasgow. I don't see any advantage returning it in Penrith to take a train to Hexham. You can then explore Northumberland and the Borders at your convenience.

Within the Lakes there is a good network of buses and with a little planning you can get to many areas. Of course with a car all you need is a good map (not just sat nav) and a sense of adventure. Many roads are narrow but that doesn't mean you need a tiny car. Use whatever you feel comfortable with, but always be prepared to give way and squeeze past drivers coming in the opposite direction. Calmness and courtesy always works.

http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/

http://www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/

http://www.golakes.co.uk/

http://www.northumberlandnationalpark.org.uk/
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:29 AM
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Lincoln also has the old museum which is a startling visit.

Try and look out for steak and kidney pudding (made with suet) none of the light fluffyness associated with pies but a solid chuck of meat wrapped in meat fat pastry.

Pork pies, tend to be a cylinder of meat encased in pastry with meat jelly poured back in, often called growlers, because that is the noise your tummy will make afterwards

Not sure you can buy bitter in soft London ;-) . As you head north you'll find the bitter goes from the flat stuff of my youth towards the fizzy headed beers of the north. You will also find that recent tax changes mean that just about every large town now has a local brewery. All I suggest you can do is look at CAMRA http://www.camra.org.uk/
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:41 AM
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Great suggestions. Especially the "solid chunk of meat" items, very much looking forward to it.

sofarsogood: about how many hours would it take to drive from Lincoln to Keswick?
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:48 AM
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old Prison museum....
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:50 AM
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Hi
Without meaning to sound patronising this sounds like a sensible and well thought out itinerary.
A few thoughts and comments.

1) One night in Lincoln would be plenty for me - and I'd spend the day I gained in the Lake District.

2) There's wonderful pie shop in Lincoln, not far from the Cathedral
http://www.brownspieshop.co.uk/

3) We often drive around the Lakes in our Landrover pulling a caravan - so do many others. You'll find buses, coaches, lorries and tractors too! A smaller car is obviously easier to park up, but please don't think the entire area consists of tiny, twisting lanes as it's just not true!

4) This B&B a short distance from Keswick is really lovely.
http://www.sandhillsfarm.co.uk/

5) If you like reading about a place before you visit, then this book would be perfect for your Lake District section.

https://bookshop.theguardian.com/she...FeoJwwodYigDdw
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:54 AM
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Meant to add - New Lanark is a great day out. Allow plenty of time as it's a big area to explore with much to see.
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 03:58 AM
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Morgana: "Without meaning to sound patronising" ... not at all! Your comments are really helpful, especially your impression of New Lanark.
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 04:06 AM
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Keswick to Lincoln in about 4 hours by motorways and A roads
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 04:07 AM
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or vice versa!
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 05:08 AM
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I agree with sofarsogood about keeping the car from Lincoln to Glasgow and exploring the Borders and Northumberland.
Jedbugh Abbey and the town, Melrose Abbey and Dryburgh Abbey are all worth a visit in the Borders.

Northumberland is also fantastic. Bamburgh Castle is situated high up overlooking the coast. Lindisfarne Island with its ruined castle and Abbey are a great visit. Many places to eat in the village. Just watch the tide chart! There is a causeway to drive out at low tide but the Island is cut off at high tide and the tide comes in quickly. The Farne Islands are a bird sanctuary. Boats leave from the town of Seahouses just down the road from Bamburgh. Alnwick Castle and gardens are also an interesting visit.

Have a wonderful trip!
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 05:11 AM
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irishface - thanks, I am sure we will have a wonderful trip. We clearly have some tough choices ahead of us, there are so many great places to visit.
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 06:00 AM
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Just a couple of quick comments -- >>Stay at Traquair House (ouch goes the budget, another splurge?)?
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 06:35 AM
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janisj: well, what about Traquair for 2 nights AND Montague for 3?? It's only money, gulp. Plus, staying in a historic property is, for us, just as much a "site/sight" as visiting some other things.

Yes, once I looked at the words on paper, or on the internet, I realized that the pick up-drop-off-pick up-drop-off thing does not make much sense. I guess it stems from not having driven in the UK for many, many years, so the prospect of driving from Lincoln, through the Lake district, around Hadrian and up to Traquair and the Borders is a bit intimidating. But one mile at a time. And it will certainly let us explore these areas much better.

I have read a couple of your forum comments on Traquair and someone referred to your TR including Traquair, but I cannot find it. Could you post the link? Thanks.
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 06:43 AM
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Oh -- yes - if you can swing it stay at both properties!

Staying at Traquair was a bucket list thing for me and I am soooooo glad I did. I've visited the house many times but only stayed there once and it was more than worth the money. I even had a visit from a Fodorite/her husband who I was able to entertain them like it was my home.

This is long - but an excerpt from the TR:

>><blue>I am now off on the solo bits of my journey. First stop Traquair House (actually the first stop was to be Rosslyn Chapel. But when I arrived there was an almost full car park and two tour buses - and I decided to press on. Thank heavens I visited the Chapel a couple of times back in the days before Dan Brown. Once my Mom/Dad/me were the only people in the place, another time just my girlfriend/and me and one other person.)

I have visited Traquair House 5 or 6 times starting way back in the late 70's. Ever since they started renting out 3 rooms in the castle, I've wanted to stay there - never seriously looked into it, just assumed it would be expensive. Come to find out --not really. £100 single occupancy, £180 double. If you want a special experience -- stay at Traquair House!

When I rang up a few months ago, they asked which room I wanted and I left it up to them. "We have two 18th century rooms which are very nice, but really I think you'll enjoy the Pink (old) Room room more" tee hee -- I'm staying in the OLD room at Traquair House!!

I essentially had a wing to myself (actually the whole house to myself since there were no other guests for the 2 nights) Up the main spiral staircase to my LARGE room looking out over the maze and back garden, half tester bed, walk in closet, private hallway, and large bath.

Plus a key to the front door, and keys to another wing where a sitting room is the residents lounge after the House closes to visitors. This was soooooo neat.

During the day you have free run in all the public rooms (but they are locked up at night). But otherwise you can go anywhere the gardens/grounds/sitting room/breakfast room (TERRIFIC breakfasts BTW). W/ that big key to the front door --you feel like you own the place.

I had been in for maybe an hour and was deciding where to go for dinner, when the housekeeper came to my door to ask if I was expecting guests. There were two people at the front gates who claimed they know me.

It was noellev13 and Mr. noellev13. They just happened to be in the Borders the same two days I was there (part of a longer trip mostly to Skye and the NW). A remarkable coincidence - - and now I am receiving guests at Traquair House!! If I didn't feel like a duchess before . . .

A super nice couple - we had a lovely visit in the posh sitting room until they had to dash - they still needed to find a place to stay that night. A mini-GTG in the Borders!</blue>
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 06:47 AM
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Wow, thanks janisj! BTW, where did you eat? I assume they do not offer dinner at Traquair?
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 07:16 AM
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I too tend to think one day is sufficient in Lincoln, but it will be a great day - lovely place.

At risk of contaminating the discussion, though, let me make a little suggestion: bypass the Lake District and reallocate those days farther north. Here's the "plan" (some may laugh.)

Stick to the east side of the island after Lincoln (and keep the car the whole way) and visit the Northumbrian coast after a detour to Housesteads and Hadrian's Wall. Visit Bamburgh and the Holy Isle, then cut across country to Melrose and then New Lanark - maybe stay at the Mill hotel.

Then, here's where the days from the Lakes return. Continue to Gourock on the Clyde coast and take the ferry over to Dunoon, then drive through glorious Highland scenery to Inveraray on Loch Fyne. Spend a day or two exploring this area - picturesque Inveraray and impressive Inveraray Castle, the incredible neolithic ruins and monuments in Kilmartin...

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.u...ray/index.html
http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.u...tin/kilmartin/

Then return to Glasgow via Loch Lomond and lose the car, done.

Here's a map of a possible route - https://goo.gl/maps/mkyVoDEcFZn

It's not that I have anything against the Lake District - it's very beautiful - but to be frank I think the scenery and comparative lack of crowds/tour buses etc. in Argyll (Inveraray et al) will make for a more enjoyable time. And this route captures the marvelous Northumbrian coast and the heart of the Borders.

Discard as you see fit, but I thought I'd throw out the idea.
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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https://picasaweb.google.com/stuartt...47845725146770

Heartily recommend the above B and B on a hill overlooking the south end of Lake Windemere at Bowness.

GardyLoo: If you wish, Scroll back to #57-60 for pics of Dunoon and a guest house which we loved..the rhododendron parks north of Dunoon en route to Inveraray are a pleasant place to visit, also. (see pics)
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 11:48 AM
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>>.the rhododendron parks north of Dunoon en route to Inveraray are a pleasant place to visit, also. (see pics)
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Old Dec 18th, 2015, 12:42 PM
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Thanks Janis..never heard the term "Rhoddy" before..easier to spell. I guess we hit the parks at the right time. Bodnant was in full bloom also.
Stu (Have a very happy Holiday season!)
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