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Old May 12th, 2004, 06:07 AM
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London: first day itinerary

I've got about 50 more questions to ask but here goes my next few along with a first day intinerary.

First: St. Martin-in-the-fields
I never would have put this on my itinerary but after reading comments on this forum, I feel like I must go to the candlelight concert. The website shows a lovely Baroque concert on our first night there. Do I need to get advance tickets and if so does the seating really change the effect of the concert. I'd like to save a little money and sit in a side aisle if anyone can recommend doing that.

Second: Harrod's
I wish I understood the hype about this store. A friend said I MUST have lunch at Harrod's. Anyone else agree with that?

So my itinerary for day 1 is this.

Arrive at Gatwick at 10:30 am. Arrive at hotel around 1:00. Does that sound like a reasonable time frame?

Go to Harrod's for lunch.

Walk around Sloane St. and some quaint Chelsea residential neighborhoods.

Take a routemaster from Sloane Sq. to Charing Cross for the concert. Would this be scenic or should I fit the routemaster in on another day and just take the tube?

After the concert take in a light dinner. I need a suggestion for a moderate priced restaurant in the Soho area or near Sloane, our hotel destination. Something cozy or unusual or historical would be nice.

Back to the Rembrandt hotel across from the V&A.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 07:53 AM
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No need to buy advance tickets to SMF concert. Cheaper tickets affect sight lines and not much else. These are totally tourist concerts, usually performed by orchestras that exist primarily or solely to do these candle light concerts. Repertoire is baroque war horses, so that no matter which musicians show up, rehearsal is not required.

I too have never understood the Harrod's fascination and I have yet to enter the place after more than 20 visits. I suppose if I happened to be walking by the place and a sudden Heavy rain storm...

Chelsea is not quaint. It is full of elegant and expensive 18th and 19th century residences.

That would be a good bus route to take. Generally, it is always good to take the bus in central London if you have the time.

I can't help with dining; I always eat at the Miso noodle place on Haymarket or the Amoy noodle restaurant on the Strand if I am eating late in that area. Neither meets any of your three criteria, I think.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 08:12 AM
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I usually go to Harrods at least once every trip to London (I don't share the negative opinion of some Fodorites -- but there are lots of other stores I also go to - not just Harrods)

I would probably NOT recommend going there on your first afternoon though. It is a VERY busy, crowded place -- sometimes it gets so crowded they have to close the Harrods exit from the Knightsbridge tube station due to the masses. It isn't a place for a leisurely lunch on your first, probably very jet-lagged day. Not that there aren't restaurants w/i the store that you could get in - but might have to fight your way through a massive crowd.

Instead - I'd go to a pub near your hotel - or better yet, pick up a sandwich and drink and eat in Hyde Park ot St James Park or somewhere where you can be in the fresh air.

As for St Martin's . . Anywhere in the church will be OK.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 08:18 AM
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Are you going to be able to stay awake for a candlelight concert after (presumably) an overnight flight followed by a long day? I don't think I could.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 08:37 AM
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A bus ride for general orientation and perhaps a good long walk around Chelsea should work out well. I try hard to keep moving on the first day and not stay too long at any one place.

I'd also skip Harrod's for lunch and go to a pub.

You might want to do the candlelight concert later in the trip. Most people find they are too tired to stay awake at concerts, plays and museums on the first day.
 
Old May 12th, 2004, 08:54 AM
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Harrod's Food Halls are definitely worth a visit; you can skip the rest of the store (unless of course you want to have tea at the Georgian Restaurant, 5th floor!). There are several counters in the Food Halls where you can have a good lunch; there's a sushi bar, oyster bar, deli, pizza, cheese counter. Much better food than in most pubs, and you can watch the people while you sit there.
A very nice place to visit in Chelsea is Chelsea Green; coming from Sloane Square, walk along Kings Road and turn right into the small street next to the Waterstone's bookshop. You'll end up on Chelsea Green and Elystan Street. Continue along Elystan Street, and you'll end up at the Conran Shop on Fulham Road.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 09:07 AM
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As you are staying at the Rembrandt, just out the door to the right (about a 2 min walk) is a wonderful, inexpensive French restauarant - RACINE - on the way to "shopping" - highly recommended by my soon to be daughter-in-law - a regarded Brit chef.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 09:08 AM
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Well I'm one of those who MUST visit Harrods every time I go to London (4 visits so far), however the restaurants are of course very pricey and we usually eat elsewhere in the neighborhood and save a few £ for shopping. However there's now a Starbucks in the lower level of Harrods which is a little less expensive. And last time I was there (last month) I actually saw Mohamed al-Fayed on an escalator while heading to the loo. (I was heading to the loo that is, not al-Fayed.) BTW they no longer charge £1 to use the loo in Harrods like they used to.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 09:36 AM
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On our first day in London last year, we checked into our Knightsbridge area hotel, picked up some items at the Harrod's food court (the only part of the store I care about!), and had a small picnic in Hyde Park. Very relaxing. That evening we took in a concert at St Martin-in-the-Fields. It was very enjoyable, but as ChatNoir warned I was ready to dose off in the warm church. I'd do the concert again, but not on my first night if it can be avoided. Either that or take a nap beforehand (which I don't like to do because then I can't get onto London time).

Walking around Sloane/Chelsea is nice. We had an excellent lunch at the Admiral Codrington pub (17 Mossop St, SW3).
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Old May 12th, 2004, 09:50 AM
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I am not sure if we are the only people on the planet who suffer from jetlag, but when we get off our 10.5 hr flt to London, get into town, get unpacked, etc. we are not ready to do any major anything It really is not necessary to hit the ground running upon arrival. I cannot stress enough getting outdoors tho and spending some time in the open air. Even tho we have been to London dozens of times we never plan anything at all for arrival day (sometimes the next day is low-key too, it is nice to look back and actually remember where you were!!) That said I would also skip Harrod's, unless you pop into the food court and pick up some sandwiches and go over to Hyde Park and have a picnic. Remember - outdoors is the key to overcoming jetlag, a crowded store is not. I love Harrod's but not as a first day activity.

I would not plan anything for that first nite, you may find yourself asleep at the concert. If you find you must do something hop on a bus and look at the sights. I'd avoid any activity (museums, etc) that would keep you indoors that first afternoon.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 12:06 PM
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Oh this is sad. I was so looking forward to this concert at St. Martin. There is no evening concert on Sunday and Monday (we leave Tuesday morning) so this only leaves Saturday. We had planned to see a play on Saturday. Tell me this is worth passing on and I won't be missing a great experience. Here are 2 ideas I've thought about to get a similar experience:

1) Go to evensong on another day after a late tour of Westminster Abbey and/or

2) Go to the lunchtime concert at St. Martin on Saturday after getting theatre tickets at Leicester Sq. and include lunch at the crypt and do a brass rubbing. By the way, what is a brass rubbing?
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Old May 12th, 2004, 12:27 PM
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I remember reading a post by Ben Haines suggesting the daytime concerts at St. Martin in the Fields were better than the evening concerts; maybe they are less tourist-oriented.

That said, I always want to go out at night my first night in Europe. If I nap during the day (which I find absolutely essential, no matter what others say), I am ready to go out and stay up late. I find it easier to stay up late and do theater and concerts the first night or two because I am not yet adjusted to the time change and it doesn't feel so late to me.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 12:56 PM
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Brass rubbing is similar to what you did with tracing paper and crayons when you were a kid. You placed the tracing paper over a raised surface and then rubbed your crayon over the paper until you had created a 'negative ' of the object under your piece of tracing paper.
If you decide to brass rub at St. Martins-in-the-Field you will select from a collection of replicated brasses. ( Imagine effigies of lords and ladies and such.)
Some of the brasses are large some are small, the price of the rubbing depends on the size and intricacy of the brass to be rubbed.
The paper will be attached to the brass for you and you will select the wax color(s) with which you want to rub.
You would want to take your time in producing a rubbing nice enough for eventual framing. ( And keep in mind that you are also going to have to buy a cardboard tube to cart the rubbing home.)
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Old May 12th, 2004, 01:27 PM
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Daytime concerts at St Martin vary in style (solo piano, quartet, etc.) but can be very enjoyable, especially if you've been hoofing it around one of the nearby museums.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 01:27 PM
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P.S. As much as I enjoy live music, ( and the concerts at St Martins) I would not give up seeing other London places of interest just to do the concert.
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Old May 12th, 2004, 04:11 PM
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As a musician, I always try to hit the daytime concerts. They generally feature young artists completing their training ath the Royal College, Royal Academy or sometimes the Guidhall School of Music.
The standards are very high and a donation at the door is welcome (to me, mandatory!)
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Old May 14th, 2004, 06:56 AM
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The food halls at Harrods are indeed impressive to look around. But eating lunch there will cost you no less than £20 per person. Personally, I like the food hall at Fortnum & Mason better. I would browse at Harrods and eat somewhere else.

The brass rubbings at St. Martin's are fun to do and make a great souvineer - Mine is framed and hanging in my living room.
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Old May 14th, 2004, 07:01 AM
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As one who lives in London, I never dine in stores, Harrods has around 20 places that you could try for food, mainly patronised by tourists. Fortnums is much more charming, so as suggested, dine there.

I've observed that tourist congregate on the ground floor of Harrods, rarely venturing to the other floors which have the most interesting merchandise - designer collections and such like.
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Old May 14th, 2004, 02:22 PM
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<<I've observed that tourist congregate on the ground floor of Harrods, rarely venturing to the other floors which have the most interesting merchandise - designer collections and such like.>>

I enjoy looking through the home furnishings department at Harrods. I can imagine how I'd furnish my charming thatch-roof cottage in the country when I win the lottery.

In December, their Christmas department is also nice.
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Old May 15th, 2004, 04:13 AM
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Add my vote for Fortnum & Mason instead of Harrods.
 


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