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London & York in September - Draft itinerary & questions

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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 03:27 PM
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London & York in September - Draft itinerary & questions

A friend and I will be winging our way to England for 10 days on vacation. We've both been before, but my former trip (in 2005) was primarily focused on ancient sites in southwestern England ( Stonehenge, Avebury, Glastonbury, etc). I did spend a scant three days in London and managed to get in a lot of the highlights (Westminster Abbey, St Pauls, National Gallery, British Museum) but that still leaves quite a lot to see! So to celebrate my 50th this year, I'm heading back with my friend to see much of what I didn't see the first time and to go to York. I'm a history junkie, so I've always wanted to go to York.

Here's our planned itinerary so far:

- Saturday- Arrive in London at noon. We're spending the night in London to recuperate a little from jet lag and don't have big plans for this aft/evening. Our hotel is basically across the street from the British Museum, so we may pop over there for a while - or go shopping. And of couse we have to eat. I know that Dickens' birthplace/museum isn't far away, so perhaps I can talk my friend into going if we have enough energy. If anyone knows of any good shopping or dining in the area, please add your two cents!

- Sunday - Catch the train (at Kings Cross Station) for York. Check into our hotel (The Grange).

- Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday - the medieval city of York! Nothing but the hotel will be pre-booked in York. High on our list of sights to see are the York Minster, the Viking Museum, shopping at the Shambles, walking around the city walls, the National Railway Museum, tea at Betty's, the Castle Museum, and a day trip to Castle Howard (where the BBC version of Brideshead Revisited was filmed, which we have both seen). We're also considering hiring a driver for a trip to several Yorkshire country towns or parks - perhaps even to the seaside (Scarborough). I'm trying to find out if the heather wil be blooming, which would be cool to see.

- Thursday - Catching the train back to London. Our hotel for the rest of our stay will be in Kensington, not far from the Victoria and Albert museum.

- Friday - Most of the day will be devoted to a trip to the Warner Brothers Harry Potter Studio for the tour. In fact, tickets have already been booked! When we return to London our evening plans are to hit a museum, since many of them are open into the late evening on Fridays.

- Saturday - Probably a trip to Windsor and then theater in the evening.

- Sunday - AM - Hyde Park for speakers corner. Afternoon theater (Matilda, the musical),

- Monday - Tower of London (because neiher of us have been there before). We're planning to get there when they open and head straight to the Crown Jewels. After the Tower of London, it's off to the Tower Bridge, because I really want to see this marvel of Victorian engineering. If we have any energy after that, I would like to perhaps take the tour at the Globe theatre or go to the tea museum.

- Tuesday - fly back to the US

Some other things we want to do in London if we have time: a double decker bus tour (maybe at night?), the Churchill War Rooms, Buckingham Palace or Kensington Palace.

Specific questions:

- Trains - Will second class be sufficient for the London/York trip? Should I purchase the tickets now or wait until we get to London? As for the tube, we don't plan to use the tube really until we get back to London. So we'll have 4 to 4.5 days taking the tube around town. Would an Oyster card make sense? Or daily tickets? And I've read that both the Tower of London and Churchill War Rooms have 2/1 deals with the National Rail. Can we use our York/London tickets for that?

- Restaurants - Need restaurant recommendations for the areas we will be in - Kensington, Bloomsbury, York, etc. My friend isn't keen on bangers and mash but does like fish and chips. I, on the other hand, woud really like to try a place that specializes in meat pies. Indian food isn't really high on either of our wish lists. Maybe a restaurant that puts a modern twist on British favorites?

- York - I've read pretty much every thread that I could find on York, and am now really looking forward to this part of the visit! But any new comments would also be appreciated. I would really like to see the Yorkshire countryside (is the heather in bloom in September?), but niether of us wants to drive. So we are considering hiring a driver for a day. If we did that, where should we go?

Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions. Although I haven't posted in a long time, I've been a member of Fodors since 2001 and have always valued the Fodorites experience.
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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 03:55 PM
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A good fish and chips restaurant is North Sea Fish, which is in walking distance of Bloomsbury at 7-8 Leigh Street.

At 42 New Oxford Street (to the left on Oxford from Bloomsbury Street), there is a small French bistro called le Bistro Savoir Faire. We had dinner there one night, and the food was excellent. We just stumbled onto it, but it has a four-star rating on Trip Advisor.

Be sure to have tea at Betty's in York.
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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 04:09 PM
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Is that 10 days on the ground or does that include air travel?

York is a lovely city and deserves 2-3 full days there. If you can, stay inside or near the city walls.

The train is about 2 hours long. Second class is just fine. I met some interesting people on the train, worth the conversation.

A day trip to Durham is nice, as is a visit to Castle Howard.
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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 04:34 PM
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Carolyn, Thanks for the restaurant recommendations. And we definetely plan on tea at Betty's in York. We thought about having tea in London, but our schedule there is already geting packed, and Betty's comes so highly recommended.

Rastaguy, If you count out the days in the itinerary above, it equals 3.5 days in York, and 4.5 days plus another half day in London. We watched the BBC miniseries of Brideshead Revisited together recently, and when I found out that Castle Howard was so year to York ... well it jumped to the top of our must see list. I know the gardens there are probably prettier in the summer, but am hoping there is still plenty to see in mid-September.
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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Oops - that should be "close to York", not "year to York". Is there no editing of posts available on Fodors?
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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 05:28 PM
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Hi doughgirl55,
We really enjoyed York. I purchased our train tickets ahead from London to York and only paid 50 pounds for two of us. Our B&B host in York recommended a great little place to eat. You get to it from on the wall. It is located between Bootham and Monk’s Bar on the wall. It is called Gray’s Court and the building was originally built in the 1000’s. We had a really nice lunch while sitting on big fluffy couches. Have a great trip.
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Old Aug 12th, 2012, 05:37 PM
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A couple more restaurants for York that we enjoyed. We had venison and bbq chicken at Michael’s, a brasserie on Petersgate Street. At Oscar's, a little bistro, my husband had steak and I had a hamburger. There are menus posted outside both of these restaurants.
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Old Aug 13th, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Hi
If you've been reading up on York and Yorkshire threads you've probably come across my scribbles so I won't repeat myself.
I think your York side of things sounds fine, and you've clearly done your homework. I would think carefully about your 'hiring a driver' idea though as I think you've got plenty on without doing what is probably going to be something pretty expensive.
You'll see some countryside on your way out to Castle Howard (assume you are gong by coach).
If I were you I'd stick to your plan of York and Castle Howard but I would also do a quick trip up to Durham. From your post I get this huge hunch that you'd love Durham and it's so easy to get to by train from York. Takes about 45 mins. Maybe go up first thing one morning, visit the castle and cathedral (amazing) and back in York by mid afternoon.
http://www.thisisdurham.com/
The heather can bloom at different times depending on the sort of summer we've had and the current weather.
By the way, York is much more than a 'medieval' city - it's history goes to Roman times and way before.
Loads of eating places in York, I love Bettys which I know is already on your list. There's a lovely tapas place called Ambiente well worth a visit for lunch or dinner.
http://www.ambiente-tapas.co.uk/
Betty's also has a little shop and sells beautifully packaged tea, coffee, biscuits, china etc - I often go there for birthday and Christmas gift ideas.
Yorkshire people are renowned for their friendliness and I'm sure you'll have a wonderful few days. I can't imagine living anywhere else. Let us know how you get on!
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Old Aug 13th, 2012, 07:05 AM
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You may want to postpone your fish and chips until you get to Yorkshire as Yorkshire does the best fish and chips especially at the coast. You probably have enough to do and see in York without trying to fit Scarborough in, but if you do want to get to the seaside, Whitby would be my choice or even better Robin Hoods Bay - much more atmospheric than Scarborough.
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Old Aug 13th, 2012, 08:14 AM
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A very doable itinerary. Good job. I would strongly suggest that you purchase train tickets in advance as this route is one that can see huge increases in price when it gets close to departure date. Second class is absolutely fine, but the train is often crowded so be sure to get seat reservations especially if you want to sit with your friend.

As for restaurant recommendations in York, I like Cafe Concerto on Petersgate near the minister. There is also a Little Betty's on Stonegate (?) which is a smaller version of the original.
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Old Aug 13th, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Hi, doughgirl55.
One comment... The Charles Dickens Museum is, sadly, closed until Dec. 10th. I really wanted to go myself on my Sept. trip.
Maybe look into the Museum of London (supposed to have lots of Victorian items of interest) or Denis Severs House or John Soane's Museum? Have fun!

http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/
http://www.soane.org/
http://www.dennissevershouse.co.uk/
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Old Aug 16th, 2012, 05:43 AM
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You must boook your train tickets in advance at www.eastcoast.co.uk. You should look for Advance purchase standard class tickets, especially as you want to travel on a Sunday when the services are less frequent and often slower than on weekdays. You can set the website to enable you to collect the tickets from the ticket machines at Kings Cross before departure, you get a free seat reservation included in the price.

I travel on East Coast most weeks, First Class is a nice treat especially during the week when you will get food and drinks (including alcohol if you want it) served at your seat free of charge. You buy tickets on a single journey basis, so you could travel north on Standard class and back in First if you want. You must never leave buying tickets for long distance trains until the day of deaparture, the cost can be three or four times the price of an advance purchased ticket
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Old Aug 16th, 2012, 05:28 PM
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Hi
I'm planning a trip also to York and then on to Edinburgh - Liverpool - Bath and back to London -
I am looking in the Kensington area for a hotel, apt or BB - we have 3 people traveling and accommodations for 3 ladies is very difficult to find. Any suggestions would be welcome. 27Sept -1 Oct.
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Old Sep 12th, 2012, 07:39 PM
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Thanks for all of the replies! Sorry I didn't reply again earlier. I can't believe we leave for England in two days!

Thanks for the advice about booking the train tickets to York in advance. I did that several weeks ago, so that's one thing done

I'm sad that the Dickens museum is closed, but then that's one thing we don't need to fit into the schedule, right? And I totally agree that the Museum of London is awesome. I went last time I was there and highly recommend it.

Morgana, Thanks for the recommendations about Durham. If we can't fit it into this trip, I've put it on my list for the next trip I take to the UK (which will focus on the Lake District, Hadrian's Wall, Cornwall and Edinburgh).

I'm still wondering about train/tube travel in the London area though. We're going to be in London for 5 days. During those five days, most of our tube trips will be in London, but one day we're going to the Harry Potter studio tour (Watford Junction) and another day we're planning a trip to Windsor. So what will be our best option for train tickets in London?
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Old Sep 12th, 2012, 08:09 PM
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I highly recommend this free tour.


Association of Voluntary Guides to the City of York

This free walking tour of York commences at 10.15am from outside the City Art Gallery in Exhibition Square.
During the summer months an additional tour takes place in the afternoon at 2.15pm from 1st April to 30th October, and a further tour at 6.45pm from June to August. There’s no need to book – tours depart promptly from outside the Art Gallery in Exhibition Square.

For two hours history is brought to life as you take a gentle stroll around Roman York’s city walls, medieval streets and churches.

The visit incorporates the Roman Multangular Tower, St Mary’s Abbey, Kings Manor, Bootham Bar, the magnificent York Minster, Treasurer’s House, Trinity Church with its famous ‘box’ pews and the Shrine of Saint Margaret Clitherow.

All the Association’s tours are extremely informative and conducted by a specially trained guide. Even better, they’re FREE – so you can save your money to buy tea and buns from Betty’s Tearooms later.

The telephone number to contact for Group Bookings is 01904550098, otherwise, simply don your most comfortable walking shoes and turn up outside the Art Gallery.


Address:
1 Museum Street
York,
YO1 7DT

Telephone: 01904550098

Email: [email protected]

Association of Voluntary Guides to the City of York

And of course no tour would be complete without a visit to the incomparably narrow thoroughfares of The Shambles, where it’s possible for someone in one upstairs window to lean out and shake hands across the street with the person opposite!
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Old Sep 12th, 2012, 11:49 PM
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I was in York twice. I second Cafe Concerto. I can dine looking out at the Minister. There is a tour of it - very interesting. I also recommend a tea in this garden...

http://grayscourtyork.com/food-drink/cafe/...so pretty.

In London you could do a London Walks tour.

Have fun!
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Old Sep 13th, 2012, 12:55 AM
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For transit get the paper travel card for 7 days (you need a passport photo) for zone 1-2. This will give you unlimited travel in zone 1-2 and on buses. Plus give you access to the 2for1 deals on www.daysoutguide.co.uk
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