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London and Paris, July 2012

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London and Paris, July 2012

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Old Aug 3rd, 2012, 03:02 PM
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I'm really enjoying your trip report. We will be "over there" next month!

Thank you for sharing. I agree you get so much information from trip reports.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2012, 06:29 PM
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Lantana
Really enjoying your trip report. Look forward to more
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 04:47 AM
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stokebailey - thanks. The métro tix can be purchased once you're inside the Eurostar "lounge". There was a sign, I believe. It was on the far right of the waiting area.

ausie_10 You must be so excited for your trip! I'll look for your TR

Thank you, chutney
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 05:31 AM
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Lantana I don't want your report to end. It is such a pleasure to read along with all the pictures. Any pictures of your friend's place? We will be in London and Paris Sep. and Oct. Looking forward to read about your dining experiences in Paris.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 06:07 AM
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Day 9, Friday July 21

We woke up and walked around the corner to a café across from Notre Dame for a late breakfast. We had an adorable server who brought us luscious chocolat chaud, café crème, yogurt, croissants and eggs.

Walked through the Square René Viviani (which I had learned through a Rick Steves podcast was home to the "oldest tree in Paris".) Here's a pic of part of it, with ND in background http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/b3c36eb4.jpg This was something fun to point out to my mom, who's an avid gardener. She couldn't believe the little things I'd learned in my research This little park is right next to the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church. Shakespeare & Co. bookstore is right in this area as well and we returned later in the trip b/c my daughter wanted to get a particular book (along w/ their famous stamp) for a teacher.

We walked to the Musée de Cluny http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/878c2f78.jpg , which was only 4 blocks away. We walked around the nice herb garden outside and there were several groups of people enjoying their lunch. My daughter was surprised to see a young couple kissing over their Big Macs and fries

We entered the museum and I purchased my 6-day Museum Pass and audioguides for my daughter and me. They held my driver's license until I ret'd the audioguide. I was surprised. Anyway, we enjoyed the museum. I'm sure my daughter was bored by much of it but she enjoyed several things, including the tapestries ("Desire" was not on display, unfortunately). My mom couldn't get over the detail in the dresses in the tapestries.

I really loved the ruins of the Roman baths and how they're incorporated into the museum - and am fascinated by the heads and bodies of the statues that were once on Notre Dame. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/95b7cb35.jpg (for those who don't know, the audioguide said statues were removed from Notre Dame -and decapitated - during the Revolution. Apparently, the heads weren't discovered until 1977, buried in someone's yard!)

After walking through the museum, we sat outside in the courtyard to get off our feet. There were children there with a couple of teachers who were on a sort of scavenger hunt. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...nhymns/928.jpg Suddenly, a woman appeared across the yard, pulling out a vial and drinking its contents and then collapsing to the ground. They yelled something at her and it was just so funny to get caught up in their play.

We walked to the Jardin du Luxembourg next. This was certainly a must-see and I wanted to rent one of the sailboats, which I did. Here's my boat! http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/44f56e0b.jpg I had so much fun with that simple little boat. (€2 for 30 minutes.)
The gardens are just gorgeous: http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/7054143c.jpg

Heading out of the park, in the direction of St.-Sulpice, I looked over and realized there was the Medici Fountain.
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/71b39698.jpg I'd forgotten to put it on my list but it was something I'd wanted to see. I'd seen several photos of it but read that it could be "hard to find". Not sure why it would be described this way?? But we loved seeing it and stood for a while watching a duck with her teeny tiny black ducklings, two of whom were wandering off and high speeds. Absolutely precious.

We walked to St.-Sulpice. I wish I'd read up on it and known about the Delacroix murals inside the church before I'd gone b/c we missed them
The church is massive - and very dark. But stunning http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/9048e6ab.jpg

We started heading back to our hotel at this point, stopping at some lovely shops along the way (sales were still going on everywhere). We also came across Gerard Mulot, which I'd read about. The shop smelled divine. My daughter says her pain au chocolat was the best she's ever had.

At 7:30pm I had plans to meet a friend. She is the daughter of
another of my mother's childhood friends and came to visit us in SC during several summers, starting when we were both 14. She has lived in Paris all her life and is currently living in the 15th arrondissement. She and her mom and my mom and my daughter and I were all having dinner together the following night, but we wanted to get together just the two of us. So, after work, she met me at my hotel and we walked and chatted and caught up on life. It was a gorgeous afternoon/evening (we had great weather every day of our visit) and we walked all over the Île Saint Louis, stopping for something to eat (YUM) http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/039441c8.jpg
at a café at the tip of the island, by the Pont Saint-Louis. Then we got Berthillon ice cream from the window of Le Flore en L'ile. I got back to the hotel around 10pm - it was still light outside Great evening.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 06:36 AM
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Thank you, Micheline What a wonderful time you will have in London and Paris!

Here are a few pics of the house of our friends in Courbevoie
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...hymns/1597.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...nhymns/875.jpg

I'm afraid my report really doesn't include any interesting dining reviews, although we did have a fabulous dinner one night at a club my friend has just joined on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 10:46 AM
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stokebailey - thanks. The métro tix can be purchased once you're inside the Eurostar "lounge". There was a sign, I believe. It was on the far right of the waiting area.>>

stoke - there is indeed a Paris TB information desk on the right-hand side of the eurostar lounge, once you get through security and before you climb the ramps/escalators up to the trains. as well as carnets, i think you can buy museum passes too, guide-books, etc.

there are also a cafe, and a couple of ATM machines, from one of which you can get euros - I don't know what the exchange rate is though.
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Old Aug 4th, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Merci beaucoup pour les photos Lantana!
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 01:50 AM
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I am enjoying your report; nicely done--the planning, the traveling, AND the trip-reporting.
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 05:53 AM
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ttt
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 05:55 AM
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Thank you, Ann! I hope our connection allows just enough time to buy tickets and passes, lounge a little. Last time, going the other way, they allowed us to race up late and still board practically as it was pulling out. A first-train-of-the-morning fluke of security, thank goodness.

Fun, lantana. You did just the things we would love. I didn't know St.Sulpice had Delacroix murals either, and missed them, too. Is the old tree some kind of locust, I wonder?
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 06:16 AM
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I think they also sell metro tickets at the snack bar on the Eurostar itself.
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 06:23 AM
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Thanks, K.
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 07:07 AM
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stoke - we found St. Sulpice but also missed the murals, though we did catch the organist doing some practice on what is apparently a renouned organ.

something else you might like to know is that unlike at all the other London termini, the loos at St. Pancras are free. well worth keeping your legs crossed til you get there.
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 08:25 AM
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Thank you very much, texasbookworm. Your London TRs are some of my favorites.

stokebailey - I just looked it up and yes, the tree IS a locust

Day 10, Saturday July 22

At dinner on our first night in Paris, I'd mentioned to our friends that one thing I'd like to get to do was go to a flea market. They are shopping addicts who have bought and sold in markets all over... I explained that I wasn't looking for an expensive antiques market (although that would've been gorgeous to look at) but an affordable, typical flea market. They said that not much was going on this time of year (and this particular week) but that there was a market on Saturday morning at Place des Fêtes, and that they would meet us there at 9:30am. They gave me exact métro directions, which were very straightforward. So with this plan, we left the hotel Saturday by 8:50am to catch a métro all the way to Marie de Lilas, where we would arrive at the Place des Fêtes market. This was in the Belleville area, 19th arrondissement. It was lots of fun. We saw everything from cosmetics to prayer benches. We all actually found little treasures and it was so interesting to experience. I found a really pretty brooch for 15 euros; my mom got some exquisite tiny sterling silver cups. My daughter bought a great jacket for only 4 euros. She also picked out some books and an LP from 1975 by an artist named Dalida, which she loves I also found a tiny Walt Disney storybook for one of my nieces. In French, of course.
Just a few pics from the market:
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/aee6bcc1.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/8e649064.jpg
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...hymns/1009.jpg

There was a small park in this area that looked freshly spruced up. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/e41b7c1c.jpg There were lots of families enjoying it.

When we'd had enough we stopped at a café for cafe creme and croissants http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/b705f0c0.jpg This is living!

By noon we were back in our friends' car, headed to Montmartre, where I wanted to visit Sacré Couer and my mom wanted to visit some fabric stores. Our friends had recommended Marche Saint Pierre and they dropped us off right in front (such service!). This area was heaven for my mom. Tons of interesting and affordable fabrics. She had so much fun and could've stayed there all day. The men working in the stores were very kind and helpful - and funny. Mom bought several yards of a gorgeous velvet - and even some white piqué. She's going to sew herself a nightgown She was very happy with her purchases.

When we could finally tear her away from all the fabrics, we headed toward the basilica. We were coming from shops at the foot of, and to the right of the large square beneath Sacré Couer. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/72a14e46.jpg We walked up a large set of stairs and then took a path up to, I guess, the first overlook area. The walk was rather hard on my mom and she rested on a bench while my daughter and I went all the way up to and through the church. Well, at least we've gone and seen it for ourselves - and enjoyed the views of Paris from there http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...ymns/050-1.jpg but let's just say I think we would've done well to simply admire the church from a distance. Live and learn. (of course, going on a Saturday afternoon in the summer may have had something to do with what a madhouse it was )

Walked back down to Anvers métro, getting off at Saint-Michel. Right outside the station, we got the hot dogs I've read about in some Paris TRs. They were huge and soooo delicious. As we walked back to our hotel, cutting through Rue de la Huchette, I noticed a sign with a cappuccino on it and decided I'd like to grab one to take back to the room. As we got closer, I saw that this was Amorino, which was definitely on my list, to compare to Berthillon. (I MUCH prefer Amorino, btw) My daughter was thrilled to get ice cream and my mom was charmed beyond belief by the rose-shaped scoops. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...hymns/1806.jpg We loved it and went every day after this. Their cappuccinos were always perfect. We loved that one of their flavors is Speculoos - something my daughter and I discovered for ourselves last summer in NYC. We also tried Amerena (cherry), Caramel w/ salted butter L'inimitable (hazelnut and chocolate) and nocciola (hazelnut); my daughter had a couple of their different chocolate flavors during the course of the week, as well. This Amorino is definitely the best thing about Rue de la Huchette I love that you can pick as many flavors for your cone as you'd like.

So - back to the room by 3pm. We wanted to rest before dinner. We were meeting friends at the Cercle de l'Union Interalliée, on rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré, a club my friend has recently joined. She'd given me exact directions and had recommended that we set out a bit early and window shop down this very fashionable street. Good advice and, even though we were running too late to enjoy it very much, the shops certainly were fabulous and we saw some great window designs.

The club is housed in a stunning mansion. My friend told me the British ambassador lives next door and that the residence of the French president is just down the street. This would explain why we saw many guards on our walk there.

Didn't take many photos at the club but here are several:
Divine amuse bouche of foie gras and fig http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/45fa670d.jpg
View of water glasses
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/ac8b696c.jpg
Checking out the grounds after dinner
http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/aa8b0dbf.jpg

It was a very nice evening, with 3 generations of friends - my mom and her childhood friend, her daughter, my daughter and me. Very special.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 06:41 AM
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Day 11, Sunday, July 22

We headed out to the Louvre before 9am http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/414fcfd1.jpg , arriving by 9:20. Unfortunately, it wasn't until then that I realized I'd left my Museum Pass at the hotel. Very unlike me as I'm a ritual checker of things like this. Oh well - it was in the safe. I decided that I didn't mind walking back to the hotel, so I left my mom and daughter there to get started. I enjoyed the walk and met them back there by 10:15 or so. I went in through the Carrousel entrance which I knew of thanks to Fodors. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/1b3f1bfa.jpg
I had "the big 3" on my list of things to seek out, as well as the museum's two Vermeers, "The Astronomer" and "The Lacemaker", plus the Napoleon III apartments. We found everything we were looking for, plus a bit more in the process. Decided to exit at 12:30.
My favorite http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/4fe6c0eb.jpg

We sat outside at a table in some shade http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/00942c82.jpg and enjoyed coffee and some sandwiches from a Paul kiosk outside.
Beautiful day in the Tuileries http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/eacd2a5f.jpg http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/496dfd61.jpg
Walked over to Les Arts Décoratifs and saw the Louis Vuitton/Marc Jacobs exhibition, which all three of us enjoyed. I especially loved seeing the old trunks and 19th century fashions.

We then walked to l'Orangerie. It was here that we noticed spectators gathering for the Tour de France http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/7d6f525c.jpg . We visited the museum, which was absolutely lovely - the Lilies especially.

Next, we headed to the Musée d'Orsay http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/58674bdc.jpg , although we lingered on the pedestrian bridge there for a while, deciding whether to wait to see the cyclists pass. Glad we didn't, as - in the end - it would've been a 2-hr. wait! We also were happy to see this statue of Thomas Jefferson at the end of the bridge. My daughter's a big TJ fan http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/7955ce70.jpg

The Orsay was packed. But what beautiful treasures inside. Wow. I'd been here on my first (and last) trip to Paris in 1992 but have almost no memory of it.
Went to the 5th floor terrace to get cold drinks and see if we could see the Tour de France cyclists pass by. Waited forever but I did see them go by - 3 times (out of 8, I think). I got video footage to send my brother. It was a gorgeous, gorgeous day and I have to admit it was exciting to catch a glimpse of this race. http://i883.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/44a937a7.jpg

Walked back to our hotel via Blvd. St. Germain.
My mom went out later and got crepes with ham and cheese. Later, I picked up Amorino ice cream and cappuccinos. Restful evening.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Drinking it in.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 10:26 AM
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You went to the Louvre, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, the Orangerie, and the Musee d'Orsay in one day? You should get an Olympic medal.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Love Gerard Mulot...my fav pain au chocolat! Would love to sample everything in there, such a pretty shop!
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Old Aug 8th, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Latana, I really enjoyed reading through your travel. I almost felt i was there. Great narration. I am also planning for the same trip in the first week of october. I have only 9 days to cover both the cities. We want to plan an economical trip. Can you please tell approximately how much budget is required to plan the trip apart from flight tickets. Please help!! Thanks in advance
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