Loire Valley
 

I'm not particularly fascinated by chateux, yet I would like to see some of them to admire their beauty and learn some history. I'm not into exploring every detail of a chateau, nor am I interested in interior decorations. I would like to see the major attractions (Azay le-Rideau, Chateau de Chambord, Chateau Chenonceau, Chateau de Villandry, Ambois). I also would like to see some of rural France, and the Loire valley seems to offer this opportunity, while also admiring the small towns. Having this in mind, how many days would you recommend for me to stay in the loire valley? I initially had four full days in mind, but I'm not convinced.

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If you have a car you can see quite a few chateaux - and other sites in 4 days. If you try to do by public transit it will take a lot longer - since many are located in very samll villages requiring train and infrequent bus connections.

For me one of the most enjoyable parts was staying in a privately owned chateau. The one we stayed in was a moated 14th century fortress owned by a charming family who served dinner en famille once or twice a week if guests reserved.

Lot of fun, not very expensive and a very unique experience.

nytraveler, I was planning on renting a car. I didn't know there was public transportation available in the area. Anyone else share a different opinion regarding the length of stay in the valley?

I spent a month in the Loire Valley once on a home swap in the Old City of Tours. I never ran out of things to do. There are other things to do and see besides chateaux. In summer, a lot of the chateaux have entertainment (not just "sound and light" shows) on their grounds at night.

FauxSteMarie, :(

I wish I had a month...

But, is 4 days enough to view 6 or more chateau, appreciate the towns (Ambois, Blois), appreciate the french countryside, etc., etc.?

Four days would be quite adequate in my opinion to cover this area. To see any more chateaux than those you have already mentioned (and your choices are all excellent) can lead you to getting "chateauxed" out and lessen the experience.

I second nytraveler about staying in a small chateau if possible. If doesn't necessarily have to be one of the big hotel/chateau with prices too match. Our most enjoyble night was a family run chateau (same family since Napoleon) which simply had a B&B sign on the side of the road. The price was extremely reasonable, the room huge and whilst the bathroom was a bit basic it didn't matter in the least. It was talking to the owner and finding out how her family had acquired the chateau and managed to keep it intact over the years that was the delight and sampling her home made goodies.

Four full days would be good. Lots to see and do. Villandry was my favourite garden, just gorgeous. There is also the area where the troglodytes live hmm begins with a S - maybe someone else can help. Interesting stuff. Fabulous area, you won't regret the four days. Could have spent longer myself. schnauzer

If you're not very interested, just mostly curious as I understand from your own statement, you could do Chambord Cheverney in one day, or Chenonceaux in one day, both by public transport from Paris and be back late the same night. It's easy.

For Chenonceaux you take the train from Montparnasse to Tours and either take a bus from outside the station to Ch. or take the train to Ch. station and walk. It's a huge castle and area around it, lots to walk and see.

For Chambord and Cheverney, take the train from Austerlitz to Blois and the coach from outside the station, it first goes to Chambord and lets you off, the driver will tell you at what times the coach comes by again to take you to Cheverney where, again, you get dropped off and picked up later to get back to Blois. The coach ticket provides you with a discount against the castle ticket, and there is plenty of an opportunity to eat lunch near the Chambord castle.

The earlier you can get up and leave from Paris the better, of course, but it's a piece of cake.

I've biked thru the Loire several times and have biked around France a lot - this leads me to confidently say that if you're looking for the quintessential rural French countryside you'd do better to take a quick look at a chateau or two and move on to prettier areas - like Burgundy. The castles are great but the Loirescapes are so-so compared to the rest of France. This is not to say it's ugly or anything but there is better for your aims in my opinion.

We stayed 6 nights - but one was the first day off the plane - so just drove to out chateau, realxed, explore the gounds and had an early dinner.

We were able to explore many of the chateaux, several towns (Amoise, Blois) see some churches etc in what was essentailly 5 days at a not super rushed pace.

Also - do allow time for evening activities and having dinner in/exploring the local towns. We stayed near Chinon - the chateau there is ruined - but we did find some cute restaurants,

In 2001 I spent 2.5 weeks in the Loire working my way from Angers to Orleans. I visited Chinon, Saumur, Langeais, Tours, Chenonceau, Chambord, Amboise, Blois, Chateaudun and Beaugency in between. Most of the time was by train but I did have a car for 3 or 4 days. I found lots of interesting little museums to visit notably the fine arts in Tours, the Clos Luce in Amboise and the cavalry in Saumur (which is closed for renovation at this time.)

You should be able to easily fill 4 days with chateaux, museums, wine and cheese tastings. Or as mentioned you could day trip to a couple of chateaux using trains and a mini-bus tour.

I think you have a bit of a Catch-22. The places you've listed are all very popular tourist destinations for the reason that they are magnificent. With wanting to have a taste of more "rural" France you'll need to get away from the big tourist sites. I know I've found how the locals live by spending the night or day-tripping to a little town that doesn't have a big tourist draw. Dole, Bar-sur-Aube, Gueret, Ambert, Chaumont, Saintes, Montlucon and Beaugency all come to mind (though of these only Beaugency is in the Loire Valley.) Maybe you can find a little village in the Loire to check out for an afternoon.

You're in luck. Most Loire Valley chateaux were stripped clean during the revolution. You won't be bothered with many pesky interior decorations to get in your way and slow you down. :-) Chambord in particular was completely barren when I visited.

(Schnauzer there are troglodyte dwellings in Saumur. That starts with an "S".)

Make time for viewing the Château de Saumur from the outside. You might recognize it from the famous book of hours "Les Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry."

thanks Indytravel, Saumur it was!! (see, told you it began with an S)

nytraveler and shandy, could you share contact information for the small chateaux where you stayed?

You know, even when I stayed in the Loire for a month, I still didn't get to Samur and Cheverny. Those are still on my list as "unseen". I had difficulty seeing more than one a day because you can get chateauitis from seeing too many at once and they all melt together after awhile. I do agree with the person who mentioned that there is not a lot in the way of furnishing in some of them. The French Revolution turned many furnishings into firewood.

Exactly my problem with many of the châteaux...there's no feeling that anyone every lived there. One exception, though, is Langlois, which has furniture and an excellent costume display. Chenonceau has furniture, and I think Azay-le-Rideau does also, but few of the others.

Try to avoid guided tours! They can go on and on and on.

Chambord is mostly empty, just a bit of furniture here or there along the wall except for a few smaller bedrooms, it is a bit hard to imagine it full of people the way it must have been (just all the staff to keep the hundreds of fireplaces going must have been a constant rush...), and - by contrast - nearby Cheverney is all about furniture, it is stuffed to the max. with antiques.

Vive la différence.

WK

the castle at Meung-sur-Loire is still lived in by the owners and is open for tourists as well - and it's a most interesting chateau.

palq, Where did you like biking the most in France??

One October, we stayed 2 nights in Amboise and 2 nights in Chinon. We rented a car at Avis out of St Pierre-des-Corps, one train stop before Tours.

From Amboise, we visited:
-Chambord, Cheverney and the village of Montresor (also went into the chateau)
-Amboise - the chateau and Clos Luce.

From Chinon, we visited:
-Azay le Rideau
-Abbaye de Fontevraud
-Chinon - the fortress ruins and a good meander thru town, incl. the Sunday brocante by the river.

cparris: I like biking everywhere in France, including the Loire but i prefer the more rugged central and southern part of France - not only is weather guaranteeably nice in summer, if not too hot, which i love, but the villages are older - more Romanesque churches. I've also enjoyed very much Burgundy.