Loire - more than chateaux
 

We will have 2 days in the Loire Valley this December. We will only tour one or 2 chateaux inside (Chenconceau and which other suggestion?), but would like to drive and see the outside of many others, especially Azay-le-Rideau. We also want to visit the picturesque villages such as Candes-st-Martin, and visit troglodyte dwellings. We will probably stay in Amboise and leave the car at Tours on the second day and train it to Paris. Do you have suggestions for an itinerary for the Loire which takes in more than chateaux? Many thanks

Hi, Judy. With two days, I think two two chateaux tours is plenty, unless you're an absolute chateaux-maniac.

One of the best chateaux to see from the outside is Chambord, just east of Blois. If you like wine, you could combine this drive with a visit to the vineyards of Cheverny.

For two days, I'd probably keep to the Touraine region. Vouvray is another picturesque wine village that's very close to Amboise. Another thought might be to substitute le Clos Luce, Leonardo da Vinci's final home, for one of the chateaux.

My understanding is that some of the troglodyte sites that are open to tourists are either closed from November to April or they offer limited hours (mostly weekends), so it's probably best to research the specific site to avoid disappointment.

Azay-le-Rideau may be difficult to drive by and view from the exterior. It is not elevated but is enclosed in a park-like estate within the town

Chambord is very impressive from the outside, with a wide expanse of open ground surrounding it and all those 'chimneys'.

Cheverny was very sweet, of a smallish size, and beautifully furnished.

We enjoyed both the Chateau d'Amboise and the Clos Luce museum (L.da Vinci's last home, includes many models of his inventions).

<i>Highly recommend</i> le Manoir les Minimes for your stay in Amboise, if you have not booked a hotel yet. Very handy for driving, as it includes a parking spot and is right off the D751 road so you don't have to necessarily cut through town.

http://www.monum.fr/m_azay/fs_index.dml?lang=en

http://www.chambord.org/index.htm

http://www.chateau-cheverny.fr/

http://www.chateau-amboise.com/

http://www.vinci-closluce.com/

http://www.manoirlesminimes.com/

I second Travelnut's reco of Manoir les Minimes. Also, if you can't get to any troglodyte sites but still want that cave-dwelling experience, you could stay at Hotel des Hautes-Roches, in Rochecorbon, just outside of Vouvray, which is partly carved into the cliffside.

Judybroad,
In Saumur you will find a military tank museum. It is called the Museum de Blindes. It's not my thing, but my husband loved it. I did not go.
We loved Saumur, and he loved the museum.
Not for everyone, but thought I'd share.
Travelatte

Another cheer for Manoir de Minimes. Fantastic, but buy breakfast in town. Too expensive for what they offer. The rooms are gorgeous (we had 11 with a view of the Loire and the chateau).

You must park and walk to Chenonceaux, Chambord, and Azay. Chambord is free, except to tour inside, and the other two you must pay just to be able to see the outside. You can see Amboise and Blois from the outside. Near Azay is Langeais, more a castle than chateau, but interesting and free to see from outside. Angers was very nice and by far the most accessible, but it too is more of a medieval castle and is fairly far west of where you will be.

If you visit the troglodyte dwellings in Saumur you might want to drop in on the Dolmen de Bagneux, the largest dolmen in France. Be aware that it is located behind tall walls that enclose the backyard of a house converted into a cafe. Difficult to find, and once you do, you have to ring a bell and someone from the cafe will come out and let you in. Pay about 3 euro as you leave.

You asked for ideas that &quot;takes in more than chateaux&quot;.

I therefore suggest the lovely riverfront town and historic castle ruin (not a chateau) of Chinon.

Not too far away is the very interesting Abbey of Fontevraud - actually just up the hill from Candes-st-Martin.

I have a recent trip report from the Loire Valley, followed by Paris, here:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34622843

Also, I have photos online at:
http://www.rozault.com/France2005

I agree with the suggestions of Chinon and Fontevraud. Also the wine tour at Monmousseau was a highlight for us.

You can see several troglodyte homes from the outside right in Amboise (along the road between the town and Le Clos-Luc&eacute;).

At Fontevraud-l'Abbaye you can see the tomb effigies of Richard Coeur-de-Lion, Henry II, and Eleanor of Aquitaine, as well as a huge medieval kitchen. The nearby church has masses with Gregorian chant, if music interests you. In Angers you can se the magnificent Apocalylse Tapestries at the Ch&acirc;teau.

That's great advice from all of you and I loved seeing your photos nonnafelice. I will try to book the le Manoir les Minimes and have got a much better idea of what to see now. Thanks,
Judy

Chenonceau is definitely a must-see. I also enjoyed Azay-le-Rideau very much. One thing I would definitely recommend is Fontevraud Abbey. There is much history there and Eleanor of Aquitaine is buried there as is (part) of Richard the Lion Heart. I believe Richard's heart is buried elsewhere, but am not certain. It is a very interesting place to tour and the patisserie across the street make wonderful pasteries. I also enjoyed visiting Chinon, though it is a ruin. The original fireplace is still standing where Joan of Arc planned her crusade. Leonardo de Vinci's home is also very interesting. However, the name of it escapes me right now. Have a great trip.

Another vote for Manoir les Minimes. I also loved the Chateau d'Amboise, which you could easily do while staying in Amboise.

If you are interested in gardening at all, don't miss Villandry.

Sorry... I missed the &quot;December&quot; part of your message! I guess you can pass on Villandry, even though the garden will still have it's beautiful &quot;bones&quot;.

Richard the Lionheart's heart is at the Cathedral de Rouen.

http://www.rouentourisme.com/default...ile=pg64-12_en

I'd definitely add the Clos Luc&eacute; in Amboise - where Leonardo DaVinci spent his last days. The replicas of his inventions are inspiring, and the gardens are very pretty.

Chimbing in a bit late here with another vote for Manoir Les Minimes and also for Chambord. They say the king's sister used to get lost in Chambord; I can see how! Other than the staircase it is perhaps more interesting from the outside as it is more sparsely furnished than Chenonceaux.

If you're looking for an evening drink in Amboise, a couple of us on this board have discovered Le Shaker located almost under the bridge.

I think the Brits have a word for such a thing as is Chambord - a &quot;pile&quot;.

I like that description...