SusanG

Hi everyone, - did search archives and found posts on the Amalfi Coast, and have also done research in books and online, but wondered if anyone could offer some ""first hand" advice. I am traveling from Rome to the Amalfi Coast in Sept. Wondering your opinion on the best place to stay - was thinking Positano, -- we hope to pack a lot in 4-5 days, including Pastum, Pompeii, perhaps Amalfi and Capri, and/or Ravello....so in terms of a good "staging place," what would you suggest? I understand we travel via ferry, bus and train among these places. Specifically, has anyone stayed at Hotel Buca di Bacco in Positano? Lastly, in terms of getting from Rome to AC quickly/easily - would it make the trip vastly quicker to hire a car service? I am very comfortable with the trains, but in this case, wonder if it might be much simpler, albeit much more expensive. As always, very much appreciate your insight and experience. Susan.

bobthenavigator

Hello Susan, Just got back from our 3rd trip to the AC. The travel logistics are the challenge, especially if you include Pompeii and Paestum. I would train as far as Naples and get a driver from there---yes, to Positano. The Buca di Bacco is a fine hotel but is on the beach where all the views are up.
Here are shots you may like:
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4481

Here is a page that may help:

NAVIGATING on the AMALFI COAST
HOW TO GET THERE: You have to want to—it may not be easy. The best option is to land in Naples, but that is not always feasible. Most travelers access it from Rome by train to Naples—a trip of less than two hours. Once in Naples, you have a choice. The local commuter train, Circumversuviana, leaves from the same train station and takes about an hour to SORRENTO, with a possible stop at “ Pompeii Scavi” to see the famed ruins. However, to access any of the coastal towns you must then take a SITA bus or a taxi.

The best option is to hire a private driver to meet you at the Naples station or airport and take you directly to your hotel. Expect to pay about 100E.
www.cuomonet.it www.tourofitaly.com www.francescomarrapese.com
www.angelodriver.com

WHERE TO LOCATE & WHAT TO SEE: Ah, what not to see? This is the most stunning scenery in all of Italy---be sure to pack the camera. Your daily activities will be somewhat determined by your location. SORRENTO is really on the Bay of Naples and not the Amalfi Coast [AC], but is the most convenient location for day trips to Pompeii and the Isle of Capri. The town is larger & relatively flat. In contrast, POSITANO is the most spectacular village on the AC but is almost vertical and a real challenge for your legs.
Hotel choices in Positano should be evaluated by their location in town relative to the beach or position on the hill above the beach. AMALFI & RAVELLO are other popular destinations but are further down the coast.

NOTE: Any of the drivers above can be hired for day trip excursions but should be booked well in advance. Expect to pay about 35E/hour.

Here are my top five activities for this fabulous coast:
• Seeing the coast from the water---the best option. Hire a boat and pray for good weather—here is one www.gennaroesalvatore.it

• Day trip to Capri by hydrofoil from Sorrento or Positano—in season

• Day trip to Ravello by local bus or driver. This lovely village is high above the coast with great views---see Villa Cimbrone.

• Day trip to Pompeii. Plan on spending 4 hours to see it well. You can take the commuter train from Sorrento or hire a driver.

• Shopping for ceramics and sipping LIMONCELLO. The latter is not to be missed---I still have it almost daily at home after dinner.


WHERE TO EAT: I hope you like seafood. Here are some of my favorites:
* In Positano: Da Vincenzo Buca di Bacco Da Constantino

* In Ravello: Cumpa Cosimo Villa Maria

* In Sorrento: Trattoria Da Emilia L’Antica Trattoria

SusanG

Bob, wow that was quick. Thanks for all this amazing info, which I will read carefully. I like the view from your apartment! Susan

macdogmom

I was in Positano last week. We traveled from Rome to Salerno and then took a ferry to Positano. The train was about 2 1/2 hours and then the ferry was another 70 minutes. Ferry was two blocks from train station so it was an easy walk. Total cost was around 45 euros--30 euros for 1st class train ticket and another 12 euros for ferry (including cost for one bag). The ferry ride to Positano was wonderful and a lot cheaper way to see the coast then hiring a private boat.

We stayed in a two bedroom apartment that was part of the Residence La Tavolozza (there were four of us) and we paid 230 euros a night. It was a wonderful place and the views from our living and kitchen were stupendous-looking down on the town, the ocean and the dome of the church. The people who run it are really wonderful. They delivered breakfast every morning although we could have made are own meal-there was a refrigerator and stove. It was really nice to be able to have snacks and cold drinks there. I loved the location and I think that staying a little bit above the beach gives you much better views. The owners also arranged for a free shuttle one night to take us up to eat at Il Retrovo (sp?). Really wonderful views up the mountain and we had a great meal there. Also enjoyed La Cambusa at the bottom and Bruno's up the street from our hotel. And spent some time at the internet cafe by the ferry which turned out to have pretty good food, great views and really nice waiters.

We were at the end of three weeks of travel so ended up just exploring the town and not doing much of anything else. I hope that September is less touristy. The town was overrun with tour bus people during the day and it turned very hot and humid our last two days there. September should be nicer in terms of weather and less people.

We stayed in Camogli the week before and I think we felt like it was a little quieter and not as overrun. Also, took a nice boat ride up the coast to San Fruttuoso and Portofino and had a wonderful dinner up in the hills above Camogli one night at La Nonna Nina.

macdogmom

Just looked at Bobthenavigator photos and our hotel was just a couple doors down from La Sirenuse. Our view from our living room is almost exactly duplicated in one of his pics with ocean and church dome below. It looks like a lovely hotel, but our 230 Euros for a big two bedroom apartment was about a third of the price they would charge.

bardo1

I could spend 4-5 nights in Naples alone. 2 nights in Capri. 2 days exploring Positano. 2 days for Amalfi. 1 day for Ravello. 1 day for Pompeii. 1 day for Sorrento.
....you get the point. Any chance to add a day or two or three?

Anyway, Positano or Amalfi are both good for a base on the coast. I would really try to do an ovrnigbt in Naples and Capri. Positano is all steps. If you are not terribly athletic, Amalfi is a great alternate - also very charming.

ira

Hi SG,

>has anyone stayed at Hotel Buca di Bacco.....<

Had lunch there. Very, very nice. You don't get the sea views all the way to Capri, becuase it is right on the beach. That puts you right where the action is.
It is priced somewhat above my wage grade.

I suggest taking the train from Rome to Naples and having a limo take you to Positano.
For private limo transfers, we were pleased with Limousine Service Sorrento (Renato Cuomo)
www.cuomonet.it Also consider Francesco. http://www.francescomarrapese.com/

Enjoy your visit.

ekscrunchy

Are you set on Positano? There have been many threads here discussing which town is the best base on the coast. Personally I like Amalfi a lot better, but it all depends on your interests.

Yes, it would simplify things a lot to use a car service from Rome to the coast. This will probably cost from 300-400 euro--depends if you can swing it financially.

SusanG

Thank you all so much for thoughts and advice! Really can clear things up when dealing with a new place. Had not thought about renting an apt - sounds smarter. Comments about being on the beach and not looking down, but up - ah ha! Re: Car - happy to see a couple of recommendations for the same folks. And...sort of wondered what was the "best located" for a staging town to sort of do tons of day trips. I am also looking at Amalfi but everyone loves Positano! We may indeed add another day. There is never, ever enough time in Italy....Susan

robertino

Another vote for Amalfi over Positano. Very charming town, great cathedral, very convenient transportation hub, and not as exhaustingly vertical as Positano.

TPAYT

Bookmarking