Live Trip Report: Vienna, Slovenia, Croatia, and Italy
Aug 19th, 2010, 01:47 PM
#41
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August 19 - Touring Ancient Rome
When I was in high school and college, I was never a fan of ancient history classes. Perhaps it's because it was a requirement to graduate or the teachers, as I recall, had a dry textbook approach. Today in ancient Rome I became a student again, but this time an enthusiastic one.
We started our day on Palatine Hill. This former palace high above the Roman Forum was built in 80-81 CE. It was the home of an aristocratic family. Although in ruins today, excavations have uncovered remarkable artifacts including frescoes now pieced together like puzzles. We toured the ruins of Emperor Octavius' house where there were remains of intricate frescoes with vines, leaves, and flowers, yet after all these years, many had retained their brilliant color.
Passing the Arch of Titus on the way to the Colosseum we were amazed at the restoration work that has been done. Tour groups clustered in the shaded areas. It was very hot here today so we sat on the steps of the Colosseum and watched the action. Push carts sold traditional souvenirs such as snowglobes, postcards, and models of the Colosseum. Alongside them though, were many hawkers selling knock off designer handbags, sunglasses, and hats. They keep a watchful eye out for the police and if one is spotted, they roll up their wares in a sheet and scamper away, only to reappear moments later. Happy gladiators posed for photos with unsuspecting tourists for a higher fee than they may have bargained for.
We had gotten a tip from Rick Steves to buy a combo ticket for the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum at Palatine Hill. This meant we could skip right past hundreds in line for the Colosseum and walk right in. Right at the entrance we were stopped by a friendly Australian who wanted to give us a tour. Spotting our Rick Steves' audio tour on our ipod Touch, he admitted our tour is good. "Rick Steves is the bane of my existence!" he said.
The Colosseum was staggering in its height. Built in 80 CE, only 1/3 remains. At one time it held 50,000 spectators. We sat on a marble stone under one of the arches. As David read aloud about what happened here, I commented I didn't like what the colosseum represented. Those were heartless times. Thousands of people and animals were killed. I do remember hearing this story in ancient history classes, but tuned out the professors because the stories were so brutal. Here, however, you are confronted with the harsh reality of the gladiators. Below the reconstructed stage are all the rooms where animals and prisoners were kept. Reconstructed uniforms and weapons along with some authentic artifacts were on display.
In the afternoon we took the metro one stop to Santa Maria Maggiore, a pilgrimage site. It was built in 432CE before St. Peter's Basilica. There was a mass in session, but right after we were able to view the delicate mosaics on the ceiling above the altar. The church also features the humble tomb on Bernini and fragments of the manger crib kept safely behind gold doors. Just down the street is Basilica di Santa Prassede where the finest mosaics in Rome are found.
Dinner tonight was at La Gallina Bianca. We were interrupted twice by the same guy selling roses. He was very persistent. Before heading back to our hotel we visited Trevi Fountain. It's tucked into a small space but the statues surrounding it and the cascading fountain are enormous. Hundreds of tourists were there posing for pictures and tossing coins in the fountain. Beside us on a bench above the fountain were a couple who had just arrived from Seattle and had been pick pocketed on the metro. They said it was the classic bump and grab technique.
Thinking back to the ancient history classes from highschool and college, I wish I had taken more of an interest in Roman history at that time, but it's never too late. Tomorrow I will be a student again as we explore more of this ancient city.
When I was in high school and college, I was never a fan of ancient history classes. Perhaps it's because it was a requirement to graduate or the teachers, as I recall, had a dry textbook approach. Today in ancient Rome I became a student again, but this time an enthusiastic one.
We started our day on Palatine Hill. This former palace high above the Roman Forum was built in 80-81 CE. It was the home of an aristocratic family. Although in ruins today, excavations have uncovered remarkable artifacts including frescoes now pieced together like puzzles. We toured the ruins of Emperor Octavius' house where there were remains of intricate frescoes with vines, leaves, and flowers, yet after all these years, many had retained their brilliant color.
Passing the Arch of Titus on the way to the Colosseum we were amazed at the restoration work that has been done. Tour groups clustered in the shaded areas. It was very hot here today so we sat on the steps of the Colosseum and watched the action. Push carts sold traditional souvenirs such as snowglobes, postcards, and models of the Colosseum. Alongside them though, were many hawkers selling knock off designer handbags, sunglasses, and hats. They keep a watchful eye out for the police and if one is spotted, they roll up their wares in a sheet and scamper away, only to reappear moments later. Happy gladiators posed for photos with unsuspecting tourists for a higher fee than they may have bargained for.
We had gotten a tip from Rick Steves to buy a combo ticket for the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum at Palatine Hill. This meant we could skip right past hundreds in line for the Colosseum and walk right in. Right at the entrance we were stopped by a friendly Australian who wanted to give us a tour. Spotting our Rick Steves' audio tour on our ipod Touch, he admitted our tour is good. "Rick Steves is the bane of my existence!" he said.
The Colosseum was staggering in its height. Built in 80 CE, only 1/3 remains. At one time it held 50,000 spectators. We sat on a marble stone under one of the arches. As David read aloud about what happened here, I commented I didn't like what the colosseum represented. Those were heartless times. Thousands of people and animals were killed. I do remember hearing this story in ancient history classes, but tuned out the professors because the stories were so brutal. Here, however, you are confronted with the harsh reality of the gladiators. Below the reconstructed stage are all the rooms where animals and prisoners were kept. Reconstructed uniforms and weapons along with some authentic artifacts were on display.
In the afternoon we took the metro one stop to Santa Maria Maggiore, a pilgrimage site. It was built in 432CE before St. Peter's Basilica. There was a mass in session, but right after we were able to view the delicate mosaics on the ceiling above the altar. The church also features the humble tomb on Bernini and fragments of the manger crib kept safely behind gold doors. Just down the street is Basilica di Santa Prassede where the finest mosaics in Rome are found.
Dinner tonight was at La Gallina Bianca. We were interrupted twice by the same guy selling roses. He was very persistent. Before heading back to our hotel we visited Trevi Fountain. It's tucked into a small space but the statues surrounding it and the cascading fountain are enormous. Hundreds of tourists were there posing for pictures and tossing coins in the fountain. Beside us on a bench above the fountain were a couple who had just arrived from Seattle and had been pick pocketed on the metro. They said it was the classic bump and grab technique.
Thinking back to the ancient history classes from highschool and college, I wish I had taken more of an interest in Roman history at that time, but it's never too late. Tomorrow I will be a student again as we explore more of this ancient city.
Aug 20th, 2010, 02:06 PM
#42
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August 20 - A Day of Sightseeing in Rome
The last day of vacation in a major tourist destination is always difficult. There are so many sights to see and so little time. Today it was brutally hot and humid here in Rome, but we made the best of it and saw some incredible sights.
The Basilica San Clemente was built in the 12th century, but like much of Rome, excavations have revealed it was built on top of a 4th century church which was built on top of a 2nd century pagan temple. We descended the stairs of the brightly decorated church into a dark and musty underground world dimly lit to see the remains of the original churches. In one room I was drawn to the sound of running water. Centuries ago it was the first Roman house of spring water which still flows today into the Tiber River.
After lunch at a modern cafeteria called a snack bar, we visited Piazza del Popolo. In 1480 it was the original entrance to Rome for pilgrims visiting the city from northern Europe. In the center is a refreshing fountain with four lion statues with water pouring from their mouths. I plunged both arms deeply into it to cool off. Another tourist dunked his entire head. Topping the fountain is a 10 story Egyptian obelisk that once decorated the tomb of Ramses II.
Not able to resist the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, I made a beeline to my favorite store, Swatch. I also checked out the home goods section in a departement store. It's always fun to go in a typical department store. The Golden Triangle is just down the street from the Spanish Steps.
San Giovanni in Laterano is the home church of the pope and a Vatican Church. In order to be officially become the pope, he must sit in a certain chair on the altar. Beside the church in a separate building is a set of ancient wooden stairs. It is said that Jesus climbed these stairs. Today it is a pilgrimage site where hundreds climb the stairs daily on their knees.
Dinner tonight was at Old Bear. It's on a small street hidden behind Piazza Navona. Their pumpkin ravioli with specks of smoked ham was delicious. To get there we took the infamous Bus 64 known for pickpockets, but fortunately we didn't see any.
Piazza Navona was busy tonight. Street musicians entertained the crowd, artists sketched portraits, street vendors sold colorful flying saucers to kids, and people were enjoying the candlelit cafes or sitting by the fountain. Tomorrow we're headed for Dublin. Arrivederci, Roma!
The last day of vacation in a major tourist destination is always difficult. There are so many sights to see and so little time. Today it was brutally hot and humid here in Rome, but we made the best of it and saw some incredible sights.
The Basilica San Clemente was built in the 12th century, but like much of Rome, excavations have revealed it was built on top of a 4th century church which was built on top of a 2nd century pagan temple. We descended the stairs of the brightly decorated church into a dark and musty underground world dimly lit to see the remains of the original churches. In one room I was drawn to the sound of running water. Centuries ago it was the first Roman house of spring water which still flows today into the Tiber River.
After lunch at a modern cafeteria called a snack bar, we visited Piazza del Popolo. In 1480 it was the original entrance to Rome for pilgrims visiting the city from northern Europe. In the center is a refreshing fountain with four lion statues with water pouring from their mouths. I plunged both arms deeply into it to cool off. Another tourist dunked his entire head. Topping the fountain is a 10 story Egyptian obelisk that once decorated the tomb of Ramses II.
Not able to resist the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, I made a beeline to my favorite store, Swatch. I also checked out the home goods section in a departement store. It's always fun to go in a typical department store. The Golden Triangle is just down the street from the Spanish Steps.
San Giovanni in Laterano is the home church of the pope and a Vatican Church. In order to be officially become the pope, he must sit in a certain chair on the altar. Beside the church in a separate building is a set of ancient wooden stairs. It is said that Jesus climbed these stairs. Today it is a pilgrimage site where hundreds climb the stairs daily on their knees.
Dinner tonight was at Old Bear. It's on a small street hidden behind Piazza Navona. Their pumpkin ravioli with specks of smoked ham was delicious. To get there we took the infamous Bus 64 known for pickpockets, but fortunately we didn't see any.
Piazza Navona was busy tonight. Street musicians entertained the crowd, artists sketched portraits, street vendors sold colorful flying saucers to kids, and people were enjoying the candlelit cafes or sitting by the fountain. Tomorrow we're headed for Dublin. Arrivederci, Roma!
Aug 20th, 2010, 02:12 PM
#43
To get there we took the infamous Bus 64 known for pickpockets, but fortunately we didn't see any.>>
the worst experience I've so far had on a bus in Rome is being berated by an elderly roman matron for getting in her way as she was trying to get off. roughly translated [I think] she was saying "bl..dy tourists"!
glad you had such a great time, and looking forward to more.
the worst experience I've so far had on a bus in Rome is being berated by an elderly roman matron for getting in her way as she was trying to get off. roughly translated [I think] she was saying "bl..dy tourists"!
glad you had such a great time, and looking forward to more.
Aug 21st, 2010, 01:39 PM
#44
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August 21 - To Ireland for a Day
I love Ireland. We have been fortunate to spend many summers in the countryside here so in many ways, a one night stopover feels a little like coming home.
Our Aer Lingus flight out of Rome lasted just under 3 hours. We headed to passport control and on to baggage claim where unfortunately our luggage never appeared. Feeling dismayed, we spoke with an Aer Lingus representative for baggage claim and he couldn't have been nicer. It turned out that our luggage had been tagged to go all the way through to Boston tomorrow so he actually went and retrieved it for us.
Airlink is a bus company with a quick transfer from the airport right into Dublin. On the way in, I noticed all of the colorful Georgian doors on many of the buildings in Dublin. The Best Western Premier Academy Plaza hotel is not a characteristically Irish hotel, but its right off O'Connell Street near the airport transfer bus. We lost no time heading right out the door to a few favorite shops. Eason's Bookstore has a wonderful selection of books on all topics with many in paperback that are only in hardcover in the US. We also headed to ELC (Early Learning Centre) which is a British toystore that I really love, and to Boots. The city was buzzing with shoppers in this area of the city which is a pedestrian zone. We stopped briefly at the main post office which has retained the old world style of deep woods and brass fixtures.
Dinner tonight was at Le Bon Crubeen on Talbott Street just of O'Connell Street. We actually had the best meal there we have had on the entire trip. I tried the grilled salmon and David had the baked sole. It was served with new potatoes which were delicious.
Walking back to our accommodation the temperature difference between Italy and Ireland was striking. It seems as if fall comes early to Ireland. For us our summer holiday is over tomorrow. We tend to say this every summer, but this summer has truly been our best holiday ever!
Stay tuned for final reflections.
I love Ireland. We have been fortunate to spend many summers in the countryside here so in many ways, a one night stopover feels a little like coming home.
Our Aer Lingus flight out of Rome lasted just under 3 hours. We headed to passport control and on to baggage claim where unfortunately our luggage never appeared. Feeling dismayed, we spoke with an Aer Lingus representative for baggage claim and he couldn't have been nicer. It turned out that our luggage had been tagged to go all the way through to Boston tomorrow so he actually went and retrieved it for us.
Airlink is a bus company with a quick transfer from the airport right into Dublin. On the way in, I noticed all of the colorful Georgian doors on many of the buildings in Dublin. The Best Western Premier Academy Plaza hotel is not a characteristically Irish hotel, but its right off O'Connell Street near the airport transfer bus. We lost no time heading right out the door to a few favorite shops. Eason's Bookstore has a wonderful selection of books on all topics with many in paperback that are only in hardcover in the US. We also headed to ELC (Early Learning Centre) which is a British toystore that I really love, and to Boots. The city was buzzing with shoppers in this area of the city which is a pedestrian zone. We stopped briefly at the main post office which has retained the old world style of deep woods and brass fixtures.
Dinner tonight was at Le Bon Crubeen on Talbott Street just of O'Connell Street. We actually had the best meal there we have had on the entire trip. I tried the grilled salmon and David had the baked sole. It was served with new potatoes which were delicious.
Walking back to our accommodation the temperature difference between Italy and Ireland was striking. It seems as if fall comes early to Ireland. For us our summer holiday is over tomorrow. We tend to say this every summer, but this summer has truly been our best holiday ever!
Stay tuned for final reflections.
