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Live from St-Cirq - 2
7/28/04
Roosters, streaming sunlight, and being off-schedule wake me at sunrise. There's a bit of mist in the valley, but already a flawless day is dawning in the Perigord. I wander downstairs and sit on the front steps and watch the pink tinge turn to bright orange and a flaming globe of sun float up over the horizon while an almost-full moon still hangs high in the sky. It's chilly, and sometime during the night I must have woken and put another blanket on the bed. Now I go to Taylor's room and put another on him, then I go back to sleep until 9:30, when I wake feeling fairly human. We need to make another stab at the Intermarche, so we tool into town, noting that there is a new sign for some artist who apparently resides in St-Cirq now, plus a new store offering " produits du terroir" and degustations on the way into Le Bugue. The corn is high - at least 6 feet - so high that the little brick toolshed our neighbors have in the middle of one of the fields is covered up to its roof. It looks surreal - a floating roof in a sea of corn. The tobacco crop is suffering this year from the drought; there's been little rain since May except for several damaging storms. The farmers are looking haggard and resigned. The Intermarche is still intensely crowded, but unlike a lot of people there, we know pretty much where everything is, so we can leave the cart stationed in the middle of the store and make forays to collect what we need - carrottes rappees, cornichons, ham, butter, garlic, tomatoes, mozarella, cabecous, and two bottles of Pecharmant (at 2,95 euros apiece). At the cash register we are informed that we must purchase bags now - no more freebies. I guess that went right over our heads last night when we were so jet-lagged. We just gathered our few items and threw them in my bag. We pay 33 cents apiece for 3 bags and now have to remember to have them in the car whenever we shop. We also now have a carte de fidelite, a store card that gets us "discounts" that non-cardholders aren't entitled to. Just like in America. Back home we rinse the lettuce, spin it, and chill it while we melt the cabecou for a classic Perigourdin salad. We slice tomatoes and mozarella, pile on a few cornichons and some carrottes rappees, and a few slices of saucisson pur porc and a big dollop of mustard. Taylor has taken a bucket of soapy water and washed down the picnic table, which we haul out under the linden tree. We bring our goodies out to the table and have a delightful lunch listening to insects humming and birds fluttering and singing in the lush surrounds. Taylor is fascinated by what the French kids "borrow" from American culture. For some reason he is appalled by the fact that they are listening to "our" music and wearing t-shirts with "our" slogans and watching "our" tv shows. He is absolutely fixated on this topic and goes on and on - he just saw a boy wearing a t-shirt that said " Les Simpsons." He wants to know how they pronounce it - the American or the French way? He wants to know why they don't advertise their own shows. He wants to know why they adopt so many of our brand names like Mars Bars and Twix and M&Ms and so on, and why, even if they do, they pronounce them the way we do in America. It's a rich topic and one I enjoy discussing. He thinks France should be French - I tell him that's essentially Jean-Marie Le Pen's platform, and why that's not necessarily a good thing. His perspective is interesting, though - he says he doesn't want to come all the way to France and see what he sees in America every day, and I have to agree. "They should outlaw MacDonalds in France," he says, and I tell him about Jose Bove. He concludes that blowing up MacDos is not the answer, but that the French should not be so swayed by American culture when they've got such a rich culture of their own. "They just think it's cool to borrow our ideas," he says, " just like you think it's cool to borrow French ideas." Sometimes 14-year-olds can really cut to the quick. It's sizzling outside, not a cloud in the sky, and we jump in the pool and splash for awhile. Then, looking at the pathetic remains of our plastic pool furniture, we decide we need to throw all the broken chaises away ( how do renters smash up pool furniture like this?) and get new ones. So it's into town again. In the past year, three new stores have opened in Le Bugue - an ALDI, a LIDL, and a nameless Dollar-Store-type place. All sell things at discount prices and generally want you to buy in bulk. We already had a Leader Price store, which was a discount bulk store, which historically has had very few customers compared to the Intermarche, which, while its prices are higher, has a better selection (and now with the carte de fidelite, customers may think they actually are getting some bargains there). I fail to see how these new stores are going to last. Even in high season- now - there are no more than a handful of cars in the parking lots. Yes, there are bargains, but you'd have to travel among the stores to know which had the best deal, and no one's got the time for that. Consequently, almost everyone ends up at the Intermarche, paying the higher prices. Nonetheless, at the nameless Dollar-Store-type place, we find some neat fold-up chaises-longues, kind of like the chairs soccer moms pull out of bags and set up on the fieldsides, only bigger and sleeker. They're only 18 euros apiece, and they are incredibly comfortable.We buy two, thinking maybe we'll come back and buy another couple before we leave. Then we meander over to Castelnaud, stopping at the little open-air shop right before the bridge to buy some chocolate-dusted walnuts and have a degustation of Pecharmant. We wander down to the beach at Castelnaud and skip stones and watch the bathers in the river, then go to Le Tournepique, which used to be one of my favorite restaurants in the area. It's changed hands in recent years, and we're curious to see if it's still as good. It's not. They have a "buffet" now, so when you order, for example, an assiette de crudites, you are directed to a stale-looking buffet with celeri remoulade and beets and cucumbers that all look wilted and old. My filet de rouget was oily and fishy-tasting, and the dessert was again from the "buffet," a crusty flan that was apparently a few days old. At 40 euros for the two of us for a simple dinner, it was not a bargain. Plus, service was slow and fairly incompetent, though I did note that the poor waitress had to deal with British, Dutch, and German customers who made zero attempt to speak French and yet all demanded explanations of the menu in their own languages, and she did a pretty admirable job of responding to those demands. Still, we won't be going back to the Tournepique anytime soon. Back home by 9:30 p.m. (still light out). Get out the telescope but can't find all the pieces. The moon is almost full. Taylor swims under its light, I read, and by 10:30 when darkness falls and the cuckoos are calling, we trek upstairs and collapse for the night. |
I love your reports!
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Delightful! You bring back such wonderful memories of our 2 weeks in the Dordogne, one in Tremolet and one in Beynac. Thank you - and keep writing! CJ
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You are making me hunger to return to the Dordogne!
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Speaking of corn, I've always wondered why it is never served in restaurants andhomes. I know that it's grown for animal feed. Does anyone there eat corn.
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Renters must do on your Pool furniture what they did on your Bed :)
I will make that salad tomorrow! |
St Cirq, so sorry to hear that Le Tournepique has gone downhill. We'd gone there several years ago based on your recommendation and enjoyed it. Great reports as always - thanks. Taylor's 14-yr-old wisdom had me chuckling.
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I want some of those chocolate-dusted walnuts!
We have an ALDI grocery store by us; I wonder if it's just coincidence that the name is the same. |
Dear StCirq,
STOP. I am so envious!!! >he says he doesn't want to come all the way to France and see what he sees in America every day< Don't be hard on the lad. It's a typical newbie response. It's hard to understand that a foreign country is not a theme park. |
Your Taylor reminds me of my 15-year-old, Ian!! :)
You have me longing for France, StCirq! ciao, Beatchick |
Chocolate dusted walnuts? Be still my heart!
Tell Taylor that the full moon hanging over the pool (a lovely picture) is a blue moon, rarely occuring second full moon within one month. |
I bought my favorite ones from the The Moulin-de-la-tour in Ste Nathaléne where I also bought my tin of walnut oil.
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StCirq, thank you for a terrific report.
Ira, I'm surprised that you haven't chastised St.C to add her report to her first post? Maureen |
What a smart young man. :)
Have you noticed any change in the nationalities of the holiday crew in the area over the past few years? regards Ger |
Ger: It's still predominantly Dutch and British. I haven't seen or heard a single American in the week I've been here, nor any Italians or Spanish, though I'm sure they are around. I've encountered a few Germans - mostly bikers and hikers. But the Dutch and British are everywhere. Twas always thus in the Dordogne.
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Lovely to read your report! (And if you ever figure out how renters do the damage they do, let me know. I've become resigned to thinking of it, similar to what the Church used to teach us, as an "unholy" mystery!
BC |
Enjoying your descriptions very much.
I haven't been 14 "for a hundred years or so" but must agree with Taylor. I'm not concerned with the t-shirts, music, etc., but am in full agreement with him that McDonald's, Starbucks, et al aren't pleasant sights when traveling in Europe. I remember some years ago taking Eurostar from London to Paris and one of the first things I noted in France was a Toys 'R Us! |
I have never been to the Dordogne region but I enjoyed your report so much. To answer Cigalechanta;
Yeh, we eat corn - its the staple diet of Africa and is eaten at every meal. Breakfast; sloppy corn porridge. Lunch; Crumbley corn porridge with stewed veg or meat. Supper; More "Stiff pap" (Smoother but more like Polenta) with gravy, meat, chicken etc. We also have an amazing recipe for a "corn" tart which is served at a barbeque. Has oodles of mushrooms, cheese, onions, garlic and cream! You want it - let me know! We also eat "corn on the cob" sold on street corners right in the leaves. |
Hi tod, so do we, but I meant in the Dordogne and other regions where there are fields of corn. Hoping St Cirq knew the answer. My guess is, it's grown for animal feed. Corn on the cob roasted with it's leaves, yummy!
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Tod
Of course, we'd like the recipe! CJ |
Yes, a small amount of the corn is grown for people...TOO small. We know of a couple of French and Belgian farmers who bring corn to the markets, but just for a few weeks. We scarf it up when we can find it. As soon as we have our own garden, we're going to grow our own sweet corn.
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Todd, pass on the recipe for the corn tart please!
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Thanks for your response, BTilke, I appreciate it.
Now Tod, see your fans are waiting. Give us your recipe! |
big heavy sigh here...not jealous, but envious! How lovely.
I visit the Dordogne vicariously through you! |
I love reading your posts! Your story about Taylor reminds me of our friends son, who when taken on a tour of colonial towns of Mexico, complained there was so much "mexican"food! The good news is..both kids are right on their "developmental" targets.
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We were just in Beynac last month during the full moon. The light shone in our chambre window and lightened up the sky. The streams of light were so bright, they put an extra spotlight on the castle at Castlenaud.
I fell in love with those little chocolate walnuts. I still have a few left that I bought at the market in Sarlat. Incredible! We also bought foie gras and walnut oil. By the way, we loved the food at La Belle Etoile and the Cafe de la Riviere, in Beynac. Thanks for all your suggestions, StCirq, which made our trip most wonderful... now you enjoy yourself and have a great time with your son! PS We were amazed (pun) at how many corn fields we saw. They are apparently just there for animal feed. I don't think it is like the sweet corn that we have, b/c we know someone who tried it and he said it was not particularly good. Also, our dear French friend who lives here now just tried corn on the cob for the first time in her life!! She loves it! |
I guess those fields must all be maize.
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Suzanne Loomis does a "thing" in one of her books about one of her grocers trying to sell sweet corn to his locals in his village... no one bought it...coz, they didn't apparently know how to prepare it just so!
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What do you use Walnut Oil for?
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This expensive, delicate, light-colored, unrefined, specialty oil is generally made in the Perigord and Burgundy regions of France. Unlike other nut oils, unrefined walnut oil is made from nuts that are dried and then cold-pressed. Walnut oil is high in polyunsaturated fats. It has a rich, nutty flavor that is perfect for salad dressings, to flavor fish and steaks, to toss with pasta, and to jazz up desserts. Walnut oil is best used uncooked or in cold sauces because when it is heated, it can become slightly bitter. This flavor, however, can be a pleasant taste when experienced in moderation. Unrefined walnut oil is terrific on salads, particularly when you combine it with bits of walnuts. Add walnut oil to a chicken or turkey salad along with some grapes and chopped walnuts. Brush a thin coat of walnut oil on grilled fish and steaks just before serving. Toss freshly cooked pasta in a mixture of walnut oil and spices. Try using walnut oil in dessert recipes that will be enhanced by the nutty flavor.I make a green salad with sliced oranges and add the walnut oil with a drizzle of wine vinegar, a sprinkle of paprika and fleur de sel.
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I make a salad of greens, sliced pear, gorgonzola or blue cheese and walnuts, dressed with walnut oil, red wine vinegar and a little dijon. It is one of our favorites. (And don't make the mistake of buying California walnut oil.) It is not even close to the 'real' thing. CJ
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Having just read these St-Cirq reports and just finished Peter Mayles book about a vineyard in Provence, I am wanting French food so badly!
So would someone give me a recipe for something (no red meat) so I can use my little bottle of Truffle Oil ? Merci~ |
Because of the heat wave, dear Scarlett, I send you this one.
In the cold weather if you want other recipes, I'll post them. Truffle Oil Dressing: 2 tablespoons white truffle oil 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon champagne wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon sea salt (fleur de sel) Few grindings of black pepper In a small bowl, whisk together while truffle oil, olive oil, champagne wine vinegar, lemon juice, sea salt, and black pepper; set aside or refrigerate until ready to use. If refrigerating, bring to room temperature before using. Salad Ingredients: 2 small heads of baby spinach leaves, stems removed and torn into bite-sized pieces 1 small bunch fresh basil leaves, stems removed and torn into bite-sized pieces Sea salt (fleur de sel) In a large bowl, toss the spinach and basil leaves with the Truffle Oil Dressing. Place salad mixture on individual salad plates. Sprinkle each serving with sea salt. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings. |
Mimi
((F))((F))((F))((F))((F))((F))((F)) Scarlett |
Scarlet, can I come on over for some of that salad?
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Oh this sounds so lovely :-) Wren, La Belle Etoile was my favorite restaurant last year when we were there, but I loved the whole area. We need to go back......
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