Live from Lyon
Feb 1st, 2013, 07:29 AM
#1
Original Poster
Live from Lyon
Arrived here on the 30 Jan after an uneventful flt and TGV trip from CDG. Weather was warm and sunny...wonderful. We were met promptly at our apt, La Loge des Avocats, in the Vieux Lyon. It's located in a renaissance buidling from the 1400's. We love the apt and we already love Lyon. Spent the first two days wandering about this delightful town, making two visits to the local Arche store to help the economy by partaking in les soldes. We were directed to our first lunch by Jean Luc who met us at our apt. Jeremy Galvan at 29 rue du Boeuf, was around the corner from our apt. gottravel had a delicious cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup with chestnut puree- the highlight of our meal. He followed it with a roast pork in wine sauce. Jet lag prevents any distinct memory of any other food. Lunch for two with wine was about €40.
That evening we crossed the spectacular pedestrian bridge, Passerelle du Palais de Justice taking us Presqu'ile where we made our first shopping foray for shoes. We wondered into a Wine Bar, L'Ange di Vin on 13 Rue de la Monnaie where we had a lite supper including charcuterie and fromage and small dish of risotto with scallops. We had fabulous bottle of Vacqueyras. This small meal was €41. From there, in our jet lagged state, we made our way back to the apt for a good night's sleep.
Thursday was also a pleasant, sunny day...we seemed to be in luck with the weather, but no doubt that will change. We hit a couple markets buying local cheeses, quiche, bread, salad makings and wine as we planned to dine in that evening. After visit number two to the ARCHE store, we leisurely strolled down Rue de la Republique admiring all the architecture. We sought out the Bouchons on Rue Garet and ended up having lunch at Cafe 203 which was recommended by fodorite, Jay_G. For €32 we thoroughly enjoyed quenelles, chicken in red wine sauce, salad and "pot" of whtie wine. Highly recommend this spot.
In preparation for the next two days adventures with bought a Lyon City Card at
€31 per card for two days. this card provides free access to most museums and all transportation.
In our brief time in Lyon, not even 48 hours, we are smitten by this charming town of two rivers with its ever so friendly people.
To be continued.
That evening we crossed the spectacular pedestrian bridge, Passerelle du Palais de Justice taking us Presqu'ile where we made our first shopping foray for shoes. We wondered into a Wine Bar, L'Ange di Vin on 13 Rue de la Monnaie where we had a lite supper including charcuterie and fromage and small dish of risotto with scallops. We had fabulous bottle of Vacqueyras. This small meal was €41. From there, in our jet lagged state, we made our way back to the apt for a good night's sleep.
Thursday was also a pleasant, sunny day...we seemed to be in luck with the weather, but no doubt that will change. We hit a couple markets buying local cheeses, quiche, bread, salad makings and wine as we planned to dine in that evening. After visit number two to the ARCHE store, we leisurely strolled down Rue de la Republique admiring all the architecture. We sought out the Bouchons on Rue Garet and ended up having lunch at Cafe 203 which was recommended by fodorite, Jay_G. For €32 we thoroughly enjoyed quenelles, chicken in red wine sauce, salad and "pot" of whtie wine. Highly recommend this spot.
In preparation for the next two days adventures with bought a Lyon City Card at
€31 per card for two days. this card provides free access to most museums and all transportation.
In our brief time in Lyon, not even 48 hours, we are smitten by this charming town of two rivers with its ever so friendly people.
To be continued.
Feb 1st, 2013, 07:41 AM
#3
Wonderful ! An excellent beginning and a great 1st TR installment. You made me so hungry, I think I could eat the French flag. You have gotten me enthusiastic about Lyon - having only spent 2 days there many years ago - so I will be trying to work it into my coming trip to France.
I wish you and gottravel a great trip - and I am looking forward to following your entire adventure (albeit in my old shoes) from Buenos Aires.
Bisous,
I wish you and gottravel a great trip - and I am looking forward to following your entire adventure (albeit in my old shoes) from Buenos Aires.
Bisous,
Feb 1st, 2013, 02:10 PM
#6
It's nice to read good things about Lyon. I have only been there twice, extremely briefly, and have never had a chance to appreciate the city the way I know it deserves.
(At the same time, I never recommend it to people who have just been to Paris because it is not "different" enough.)
(At the same time, I never recommend it to people who have just been to Paris because it is not "different" enough.)
Feb 1st, 2013, 11:11 PM
#9
Original Poster
I am using my iPad for this TR so please excuse all the typos that I miss. thanks for following along in spite of them.
I love Paris...it's one of my favorite cities. Lyon is similar in some ways since it is French and urban. However, there are very few tourists and not nearly as much to see. The town seems to operate at a somewhat slower pace and people are very friendly. Similar to Paris, it's a physically spectacular city, and similar to Paris it is a very walkable city and has a good transit system. Lyon, like Paris has fabulous food and wine and so far it's a touch less expensive at the more moderate priced restaurants where we have eaten.
@thursday - In terms of planning, we did very little, that is why we chose France and only three cities. We will be in Lyon for a week then Four days in Dijon before ending with 18 days in Paris.
I love Paris...it's one of my favorite cities. Lyon is similar in some ways since it is French and urban. However, there are very few tourists and not nearly as much to see. The town seems to operate at a somewhat slower pace and people are very friendly. Similar to Paris, it's a physically spectacular city, and similar to Paris it is a very walkable city and has a good transit system. Lyon, like Paris has fabulous food and wine and so far it's a touch less expensive at the more moderate priced restaurants where we have eaten.
@thursday - In terms of planning, we did very little, that is why we chose France and only three cities. We will be in Lyon for a week then Four days in Dijon before ending with 18 days in Paris.
Feb 2nd, 2013, 03:04 AM
#10
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Lyon, where sadly I have not been, has a reputation for the best food in France. Sounds like you are proving that!
It has to go on my list.
Here is an oddish question: can you see any [snowy] mountains from the city?
It has to go on my list.
Here is an oddish question: can you see any [snowy] mountains from the city?
Feb 2nd, 2013, 07:45 AM
#13
Original Poster
@ackislander- we haven't really seen the mountains. While we've had lots of sun, there are also low lying clouds perhaps obstructions any view of the mountains.
@thursdaysd-thanks for your suggestions. We likely won't run out of things to do Lyon, but u never know.
@marnie, yes all of France has wonderful food as far as I have experienced. but Lyon does claim to tbe the Capital of Gastronmy for some reason, I haven't read they why of that yet. Maybe before we leave here on Wednesday,
@thursdaysd-thanks for your suggestions. We likely won't run out of things to do Lyon, but u never know.
@marnie, yes all of France has wonderful food as far as I have experienced. but Lyon does claim to tbe the Capital of Gastronmy for some reason, I haven't read they why of that yet. Maybe before we leave here on Wednesday,
Feb 2nd, 2013, 07:50 AM
#14
Lyon is reputedly the capital of the traditional French cuisine with all of the heavy sauces that are now somewhat out of fashion. But there is not really any other place in France that could be designated as the "food capital" so I'm sure that its trophy is safe. Paris, for example, certainly doesn't have any distinctive culinary specialities, unless we are shooting for the crown for fusion food.
Feb 2nd, 2013, 09:41 AM
#16
Original Poster
Thanks TD We'll see if we can find it and fit it into one of our meals.
Our plan was to devote yesterday, Friday and today, Saturday to those activities included in the Lyon City Card. We began with the Musee des Beaux-Arts which houses one of France's largest art collections after the Louvre. The musee sits on the striking place des terreaux with its beautiful Bartholdi fountain. In the musee one can have an audio guide which provides very helpful info while looking at the art. Although our tastes run to modernism, we enjoyed the older paintings, in particular, an absolutely stunning Zurbaran portrayal of St Francis. In particular we recommend the modern artists such as the Dufuys, the Picassos, the Bacons, the Degas and their contemporaries. We spent several hours here, but one could easily spend much longer.
By now we were getting hungry and stopped at Eric Kayser Boulangier for a quick lunch. I had pisssaladiere that was very good and GT had a jambon and fromage croissant, also very good. We sat at the counter watching all the people enjoying their lunch breaks on a sunny afternoon. From there we took off for the Musee des Tissus and Decorative arts museum. I love textiles so was looking forward to this museum. Alng the way we decided to conserve time and hopped on the metro which was very easy to use. Our city cards gave us free transport.
These museums proved to be somewhat of a disappointment. There was little in the way of guide material and the rooms were so dark it was often difficult to fully enjoy the work in the textiles. We thought we were following the map provided and came out at the entrance. The attendant pointed us thru another doorway for a few more displays. Then we went thru the gift shop and were on our way. Later reading about the museum we realized we may have missed the furniture displays and likely all or most of the Decorative Musee, but oh we'll, we'll catch up in Paris.
We hopped back on the metro and headed for the funicular which would take us up the hill to the Fourviere district. The imposing Basilica had been looking down upon us since arriving in the Vieux Lyon. Also on this hill is the La Tour Metallique which is supposed to rival the Eiffel tower...no contest here given its modest dimensions. Today it serves as a TV relay tower. Views back down the hill and across Lyon are stunning and it's worth a ride or a walk up just for that.
Most interesting on the hill are the remains of two RomanAmphitheaters and the Musee Gallo Roman which is fascinating. The museum tells the history of the Roman civilization, Lugdunum, in Lyon. The building itself appears almost as a bunker and was built in 1975 when it was decided to combine all the roman artifacts in one building, We were told the amphitheater is still used for rock concerts in the summer
We walked back down the hill, rested and then took off for our dinner at Au Petit Bouchon Georges on 8 Rue du Garet. The owner was a hoot and thoroughly entertained us throughout our meal. I started with onion soup that didn't rock my soul. GT had a delicious gateau de foie in a fabulous tomato sauce. Our mains were local sausage sautéed in Beaujolais with steamed potatoes and Quenelle again, and also delicious again. We accompanied this with a pot of Cote de Rhone. We ended the meal with St Marcellin, a local cheese, which is quickly becoming a favorite. The cost of this feast including a demi pot to go with the cheese was about 60 well spent euros. Highly recommend for the food and the entertainment, but skip the soup.
Next up Day Two -Going Round & Round and the City Card
Our plan was to devote yesterday, Friday and today, Saturday to those activities included in the Lyon City Card. We began with the Musee des Beaux-Arts which houses one of France's largest art collections after the Louvre. The musee sits on the striking place des terreaux with its beautiful Bartholdi fountain. In the musee one can have an audio guide which provides very helpful info while looking at the art. Although our tastes run to modernism, we enjoyed the older paintings, in particular, an absolutely stunning Zurbaran portrayal of St Francis. In particular we recommend the modern artists such as the Dufuys, the Picassos, the Bacons, the Degas and their contemporaries. We spent several hours here, but one could easily spend much longer.
By now we were getting hungry and stopped at Eric Kayser Boulangier for a quick lunch. I had pisssaladiere that was very good and GT had a jambon and fromage croissant, also very good. We sat at the counter watching all the people enjoying their lunch breaks on a sunny afternoon. From there we took off for the Musee des Tissus and Decorative arts museum. I love textiles so was looking forward to this museum. Alng the way we decided to conserve time and hopped on the metro which was very easy to use. Our city cards gave us free transport.
These museums proved to be somewhat of a disappointment. There was little in the way of guide material and the rooms were so dark it was often difficult to fully enjoy the work in the textiles. We thought we were following the map provided and came out at the entrance. The attendant pointed us thru another doorway for a few more displays. Then we went thru the gift shop and were on our way. Later reading about the museum we realized we may have missed the furniture displays and likely all or most of the Decorative Musee, but oh we'll, we'll catch up in Paris.
We hopped back on the metro and headed for the funicular which would take us up the hill to the Fourviere district. The imposing Basilica had been looking down upon us since arriving in the Vieux Lyon. Also on this hill is the La Tour Metallique which is supposed to rival the Eiffel tower...no contest here given its modest dimensions. Today it serves as a TV relay tower. Views back down the hill and across Lyon are stunning and it's worth a ride or a walk up just for that.
Most interesting on the hill are the remains of two RomanAmphitheaters and the Musee Gallo Roman which is fascinating. The museum tells the history of the Roman civilization, Lugdunum, in Lyon. The building itself appears almost as a bunker and was built in 1975 when it was decided to combine all the roman artifacts in one building, We were told the amphitheater is still used for rock concerts in the summer
We walked back down the hill, rested and then took off for our dinner at Au Petit Bouchon Georges on 8 Rue du Garet. The owner was a hoot and thoroughly entertained us throughout our meal. I started with onion soup that didn't rock my soul. GT had a delicious gateau de foie in a fabulous tomato sauce. Our mains were local sausage sautéed in Beaujolais with steamed potatoes and Quenelle again, and also delicious again. We accompanied this with a pot of Cote de Rhone. We ended the meal with St Marcellin, a local cheese, which is quickly becoming a favorite. The cost of this feast including a demi pot to go with the cheese was about 60 well spent euros. Highly recommend for the food and the entertainment, but skip the soup.
Next up Day Two -Going Round & Round and the City Card
Feb 2nd, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Great to hear from you, yestravel! I've never been to Lyon, but it's been on the list for awhile. You're making me think I need to bump it up. ;-)
What a great start - looking forward to hearing more.
What a great start - looking forward to hearing more.
Feb 2nd, 2013, 01:35 PM
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Sounds wonderful!
I also visited the Textile Museum--they had a very interesting glove exhibit and showed the rather intricate looms used in the fancy silks. There are one or 2 silk makers (weavers?) left. We left before I could get an appointment with one.
I also visited the Textile Museum--they had a very interesting glove exhibit and showed the rather intricate looms used in the fancy silks. There are one or 2 silk makers (weavers?) left. We left before I could get an appointment with one.
Feb 2nd, 2013, 02:38 PM
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Have you considered doing the bus tour of the murals? I was absolutely fascinated by that.
My first day ever in Lyon pretty much was what you did today, except I just threw myself on the métro after the textile museum and got off at random stops and wandered around, then came back to wander around some of the traboules.
I agree that the Musée de Beaux Arts is absolutely fabulous, and such a beautiful building, to boot.
My first day ever in Lyon pretty much was what you did today, except I just threw myself on the métro after the textile museum and got off at random stops and wandered around, then came back to wander around some of the traboules.
I agree that the Musée de Beaux Arts is absolutely fabulous, and such a beautiful building, to boot.
