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-   -   Lisbon in January? Or any other suggestions? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/lisbon-in-january-or-any-other-suggestions-1670111/)

Iwan2go Jul 31st, 2019 09:13 AM

Lisbon in January? Or any other suggestions?
 
I am looking for a place to go for about six nights in early January, to which we would add two nights at the end in Paris, and would appreciate any input. We are a couple in our early 70s, and our adult son will again accompany us on the trip. We all walk a LOT, and particularly enjoy art, museums, gardens, architecture, and good food. We’re from the LA area; while not used to very cold weather, we did fine last January in London for a week. Snow, I think, would not be as easy - so I’ve left off Munich, Berlin, Vienna.

We have been to Nice in December (which we loved - so many museums! and good weather), and have recently been to Paris, Rome, Florence, Madrid, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Prague, Bruges, so those are not on the list now. Plans are to see Copenhagen and Stockholm in the spring. We would like to focus on western Europe (not Greece or Turkey), and I’m thinking that with Brexit in flux, going back to the UK is not a good idea (not to mention the weather).

Looking at a map of the Mediterranean, I am thinking of Lisbon, and would appreciate any comments on that timing. We plan on taking one day to see Sintra. When I look at Google maps, I do see an awful lot of graffiti in some areas - is that something that is pervasive, or unusual, and did it color your impressions of the city? I’m differentiating graffiti from street art (I see there are art walks for that). I do love sunny days, and it seems like Lisbon would have that, as well as a number of museums. The only other place I am attracted to is Bordeaux.

Thank you for any advice you can give! I appreciate your insights.

jpie Jul 31st, 2019 10:25 AM

We love Bordeaux and spend a lot of time there since we have a family home not too far at the seaside. That said, I wouldn't really recommend it in January-just a bit too cool and not enough sun there for my taste for that time of year. But definitely put it on your list for a future spring or fall trip.

I think Lisbon could be a great choice. But I would also consider Seville that time of year and if you want seaside Malaga isn't far away and it is also a wonderful city. The whole of Andalusia is nice in the winter-so much too see and not nearly as many tourists. You don't say if you are planning on having a car-that might also change some of my thoughts on where to go.

Iwan2go Jul 31st, 2019 10:43 AM

Thank you, jpie. I did consider Seville, which we briefly saw maybe ten years ago (along with Ronda and Granada - we had a car that time). We loved the whole area - especially the Alhambra! This time, we will not have a car, so I think you’re right, it would be more difficult to do then.

Another factor for me is the ease of flying LAX to whichever city we choose. When I plug in any connecting flight to Seville (Air France, Iberia), I get a five hour layover and that’s too long for us. :( Even though a flight to Malaga would be faster, I don’t think Malaga would be as interesting as Seville or Granada; we would have to spend one night there, then move on, and with such a short time frame, we would prefer to make the first destination the one we’d like to spend time in.

But it’s a good suggestion to look into! Thank you. And I already have a file for a French Pyrenees + Bordeaux trip!

jpie Jul 31st, 2019 02:02 PM

You might also look at Norwegian Air from LAX. Even though we always keep our fingers crossed that they will still be in business when we book, we love their Premium class that goes non-stop to London Gatwick and then on to Malaga. British Airways and Easyjet and Iberia also connect to Malaga from Gatwick.

I do agree that Malaga isn't as lovely a city as Seville to me, however, I think it could make a good winter destination trip. British air and easyjet also fly from Gatwick to Seville as an alternative if you decide to think about Spain some more.

We will be going to Portugal next spring but have been a bit hesitant to go in the winter although I think most of the time the weather should be fairly good that time of year

Maribel Jul 31st, 2019 02:58 PM

I've traveled to Lisbon twice recently in the winter (November) and once spent a wonderful Xmas-NYE holiday there with my parents, then on to Madeira.

On our recent November trips the Lisbon weather was mostly beautiful/warm during the day with no need for a coat until the late evening. The Christmas lights and the Christmas tree in the Praça do Comércio should still be up in Lisbon until January 6, Epifany, if you can be there by then--it's a festive, very pretty time. *We've stayed both in Chiado and off the Avenida da Liberdade, both pleasant, attractive surroundings.

And museums & beautiful churches abound: the exquisite Gulbenkian, the Tile Museum, the vast Naval Museum, Jerónimos Monastery & attached Archaeological Museum, National Coach Museum, Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua (its National Gallery), Foundation Medeiros e Almeida for decorative arts (another private collection) and the contemporary Berardo Collection, just to name a few! There would be plenty to keep you busy for 5 days with a day to visit Sintra for its monuments & gardens.

We've also used Málaga and Sevilla as late February destinations and found it warm and sunny. Málaga boasts 320 days of sun a year and their Christmas light display is quite impressive, plus it's now become a city of museums (37 of them).

We also fly from the west coast and to see all the various flight connections, use matrix.itasoftware.com to find the quickest possible routing, as flying from the west coast to Europe can make for a grueling, extremely tiring day/night. We now choose a non-stop directly to a European gateway (London or Paris) and connect from there. Delta flies LAX to LIS connecting through CDG (Delta to CDG, Air France to LIS), but you may have probably already checked that.

Iwan2go Jul 31st, 2019 07:36 PM

Thank you both for the Malaga suggestion - I’ll do some further research on that. I didn’t realize there were so many museums there, and the flights are pretty good.

Can anyone address this concern I posted above re: Lisbon? "When I look at Google maps, I do see an awful lot of graffiti in some areas - is that something that is pervasive, or unusual, and did it color your impressions of the city? I’m differentiating graffiti from street art (I see there are art walks for that)."

KarenWoo Aug 1st, 2019 03:45 AM


Originally Posted by Iwan2go (Post 16962972)
Thank you both for the Malaga suggestion - I’ll do some further research on that. I didn’t realize there were so many museums there, and the flights are pretty good.

Can anyone address this concern I posted above re: Lisbon? "When I look at Google maps, I do see an awful lot of graffiti in some areas - is that something that is pervasive, or unusual, and did it color your impressions of the city? I’m differentiating graffiti from street art (I see there are art walks for that)."

The graffiti is not pervasive at all. We did a lot of walking through the different neighborhoods, as you know from my trip report, and to be honest, we barely noticed it. It did not color our impressions of Lisbon.

We have been to Malaga as well, and we really liked it, but I would choose Lisbon over Malaga. There are more various things to see and do in Lisbon, and it is Portugal’s capital. While there are tons of museums in Malaga, how many museums would you realistically visit? I think for me that 6 nights would be too long in Malaga unless I was taking lots of day trips. But 6 nights is not too long for Lisbon. BTW, I replied to your post on my trip report about the length of your stay, and I think 6 nights is perfect for Lisbon with a day trip to Sintra.

Iwan2go Aug 1st, 2019 07:14 AM

Thank you so much! Karen, I appreciate your observations about the graffiti, and figure it won’t be a big deal. Perhaps we’ll save Malaga for another time.

it is so helpful to be able to ask these questions, especially when one isn’t “judged” for them. ��


danon Aug 1st, 2019 07:25 AM

I liked Lisbon very much..it can be a bit rough around the edges in some places ,but it is an interesting city with much to see.
It is also the hilliest city I have ever. visited ...the tiled streets can be slippery...
so if you decide to go, bring comfortable footwear. I stayed in the “ flat “ part near Avenida
which was perfect for me. Taxis are inexpensive , metro system is very good.

jpie Aug 1st, 2019 07:28 AM

If you do decide on Lisbon I would love to hear any of your follow up comments about how you decide to route from LA, where you stay, etc. We are excited to visit Portugal next spring. We had all the planning to go last spring but my DH had some last minute health concerns crop up. We have two friends now who have decided to emigrate to Portugal in the past 2-3 years, one to Lisbon and the other to a small town outside of Porto.

You have been to some terrific destinations so far and it sounds like both Malaga and Bordeaux will be in the planning for the future.

Iwan2go Aug 1st, 2019 08:50 AM

I’m trying this on my iPhone, so I hope it goes to the right place on my thread!

Karen, we prefer to fly on the Air France Airbus 380 out of LAX. The timing is good: we avoid traffic both directions, a factor anyone who lives in LA will appreciate and understand...🤪😩 It goes directly to CDG, and we like the ability to walk up and down the staircase. The outbound connection in Paris is about two hours, so not too fast and not too long.

On the return, we spend the night in Paris (no hardship, we love Paris) and catch the 10:15 flight home. I’ve been watching the fares - they went up
slightly last night but I think they’ll drop again
and I’ll book it.

Im looking at this hotel near the Carmo Convent: Lisboa Carmo. Some of the rooms have views, and the breakfast looks very good with lots of choices.
https://carmo.luxhotels.pt/

Thanks to the other poster who mentioned the cobblestone streets! I’ll get some new shoes with good gripping soles. Those stones also destroy the front of shoes! I had a pretty pair of walking flats that were patent leather - they kept catching in the spaces between cobbles, and the front edge was thrashed. Bummer!!!

Thank you all again for your advice!

Maribel Aug 1st, 2019 09:19 AM

We love the Chiado area around the Carmo Convent, and the Lisboa Carmo is a very nice hotel. I think it's a fine choice.

Iwan2go Aug 1st, 2019 10:01 AM

Thanks, Maribel, I know that you’re the Spain expert and presume you know Lisbon well, too. I like the idea that the hotel faces a leafy square (that’s one of the main reasons I chose it), and that some rooms have lovely panoramic views.

Iwan2go Aug 1st, 2019 10:02 AM

Sorry, jpie was the person asking about info. I couldn’t see the post on my iPhone. :)

jpie Aug 1st, 2019 12:54 PM

Thanks for the info on how you route. We lived in LA for years so I definitely sympathize about the traffic-although having just returned from visiting friends in LA, SF and then returning to our base (now) of Seattle I can't believe that traffic was easier in LA out of all of those places-at least LA has lots of long straight roads compared to the Bay area and here in Seattle-never thought I would see the day when I was actually preferring LA traffic :)

We might consider the Air France flight out of LAX as we may leave from Palm Springs next year-our first destination will be Bordeaux which is why we tend to fly Norwegian to Gatwick, but the Paris flight could work as well.

Maribel Aug 1st, 2019 02:46 PM

Iwan2go,
Of all the spots in the Chiado, the leafy square around the Carmo Convent is actually my favorite. It's just a block or so off the increasingly tourist packed Rua Garret, yet quiet and pretty. The Chiado also is filled with great dining spots, both casual and gourmet, which are within a short walk from the Lisboa Carmo, although the bistrot of the hotel is quite well priced and offers something that would appeal to every palate. And it's especially nice in a Lisbon hotel to have the panoramic views of the Tagus.

To minimize the uphill climbs from the Baixa (flat area) to Chiado we've used the escalators in the Baixa-Chiado metro station that bring you up to the exit for Rua Garret, then turn right and walk the short uphill distance to the Largo do Carmo.
Or you can find the Baixa entrance to the Armazéns shopping center (where the Mango and FNAC stores are) and use the elevators or escalators inside this mall to the 5th floor get up to the Rua Garret, then walk up Rua Sacramento to the Largo do Carmo.

To handle the Lisbon/Sintra/Porto/Coimbra/Douro hills and the cities' slippery cobblestones I wear my trusted lightweight platform loafers with really thick, sturdy soles. Any brand will do, so long as the shoe has a heavy, gripping sole, as danon notes!

jpie Aug 3rd, 2019 04:59 PM

I don't mean to hijack your post Iwan2go but just a quick question to Maribel. We are planning on a trip next spring and I am concerned because I don't walk all that well. Would that area around Largo do Carmo given what you have said about using the escalators etc. be an okay choice for us. I don't use a cane or anything-just have old arthritic knees and hips and don't do well on too much incline....

danon Aug 4th, 2019 06:08 AM

I am not an expert like M. , but in spite of no mobility issues I found the hills in Lisbon rather challenging.
- even walking down (slippery cobblestones ) ! As I mentioned, I stayed in the flat area near Avenida ,
,took metro to Chiado ( Rua Garret ) and some other locations.
I also used (inexpensive ) taxies .

jpie Aug 4th, 2019 07:11 AM

Thanks danon-since we will also have a car we are considering staying outside the city in Cascais for much of the tripand then leaving our car there and just spending one or two nights in Lisbon while we see friends who live in the city and visit a bit. I have a feeling I am going to want to use cabs in the cit in addition to the escalators and elevators....

Maribel Aug 4th, 2019 02:39 PM

Hi jpie,
I think you might be ok but there will still be climbs, inclines. In Lisbon it's just darn hard to avoid them, as danon notes. But using the elevators/escalators from Baixa to Chiado, the Elevadores (but always packed with tourists) or by using taxis (cheap) or even the electric tuk tuks that have invaded Lisbon (I don't use them, but they do come in handy for the mobility impaired) you can minimize somewhat the climbs. From the top of the metro escalator at Rua do Carmo, you'll still have to walk up Rua Sacramento to reach the Largo de Carmo.
Like danon, we use the inexpensive taxis when tired.

A better place, and still an attractive place for those with arthritic knees, would be the bottom, southern stretch of the leafy, café-kiosk and international boutique lined Avenida da Liberdade, where danon stays... some lodging closer to the flat Praça Restauradores & Rossio station.
Hotels that come to mind: Avenida Palace right next to Rossio station (dead central!), Heritage Avenida da Liberdade, BessaLiberdade, Residencial Florescente, the new-ish O Artista suites, Lisbon Wine Hotel.

In the past I've stayed in Chiado, in Lapa (need taxis), at the top of the Avenida da Liberade across from Eduardo VII park (near metro but a real hike) and in the middle of the Avenida da Liberdade at my favorite hotel, the Britânia. But I don't yet (knock on wood) have arthritic knees/hips. We do enjoy the Avenida da Liberdade middle section, but we do get our cardiovascular exercise staying there!*

Again, I think danon's suggestion, the flat, lower, southern area of Liberdade, is a better one for you.
*


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