Lisbon for Christmas & New Years Week - Please Advise
 

We are considering a family trip with our college age daughter to Lisbon for the holiday week because it is the only week we can all travel together. We have never been there but have been to many other countries in EU. We want a southern European country to with hopefully mild weather. It looks like a beautiful city with opportunities for great day trips. Here are some questions:

- What is the weather generally like in Lisbon at this time. What type of outer clothing is best to take?
- How is New Year's celebrated in the city?
- I've read good and not so good reviews is crime and grittiness a big distraction - we are from NYC so gritty is not such a big deal- and we spend a lot of time in Rome so graffitti isn't a big deal either.
- We're vegetarian...would the cuisine accommodate our needs - we don't eat fish or meat or chicken but love all kinds of vegies, cheeses, olives, pastas, etc.
- What are the best neighborhood to stay in Lisbon? (comparable to Trastever or Camp Fiori in Rome, Galata in Istanbul, or Marais in Paris?)
- Any apartments rental agencies or specific apartments that folks can recommend?

Hi risab,

Sorry I dont have any advice, but we plan to spend the same week in Lisbon this year so I am bookmarking for any responses you get!

Thanks for asking the questions!

Weather will be variable...take nothing to be guaranteed. Someone may show you a link to statistics about the weather. But statistics and weather are not the same.
Ref you choice in foods. Be aware that even if you are offered vegetation meals you may find some sort of fish in it.
I think you would be better off renting a flat so that you can prepare your own meals to be safe.
Where have you read about the grittiness and crime in the city. I bet both are lower than NY.
Here is the website for the city.
http://www.visitlisboa.com/
you can change the language if you need too.

Thanks for the info and link for Lisbon.
Not too interested in preparing all meals - my interest in travel is to see sites but to enjoy local cuisine - infact we love to eat.

We have always been able to find vegie options in our travels - but have gone to countries where vegies are a big part of the meal. However, my daughter traveled in Spain a few years ago and said it was harder to find vegie options.

Are pasta, pizza, and other types of international cuisine available in Lisbon?

tt

We spent 4 days in Lisbon last September and really enjoyed it. Below is my trip report with the first section about Lisbon.

Portugal Trip Report - 17 days in September Posted by: Lily on Sep 30, 09 at 02:55 PM
Posted in: Europe


Just back from two weeks in Portugal. Thanks to everyone here for all the help with planning this trip. Everything turned out very well. I used Rick Steves, Fodors, and Eye Witness guides, Trip Advisor, and this site which was most helpful. I haven't commented too much on the well known sights in Portugal but concentrated more on accomodation, meals, etc., and on info that I thought would be helpful.

Day One, early September arrival - We arrived in Lisbon at about 11:00am after an overnight flight from Ottawa. We first called our apartment to advise them of our arrival – the telephone would not take our coins (coins leftover from our last trip) and we had not yet bought a phone card so a kind Portuguese man let us make the call with his phone card. We then took some Euros out of the bank machine at the airport – note that you can only take 200 Euros at one time at the bank machines in Portugal. With cash in hand, we then went outside to get a taxi. I had the address written down so that it would be easier for the taxi driver. Taxis in Portugal are on meters so there seems little chance of paying more than necessary unless your driver takes you on an extended trip. Still, we did ask the driver how much he thought it would be and his estimate was right on – 17 Euros. We did not buy a Lisbon Card which covers the Metros and free entry to many museums and monuments as we were not sure how much we would use it. Others on this site however have found it very useful.

Our apartment was in the Chiado district right on Rua Garrett. This apartment has been recommended on this site several times and I learned about it from Sher (thanks Sher!) and I also would not hesitate to recommend it. The location was excellent as we could walk throughout the areas of the Barrio Alto and Alfama from here. One block from us was the famous Cafe A Brasileira and one block the other way was the Armazens do Chiado, a six floor shopping centre with a food court - we didn't do any shopping here but it was handy for picking up our phone card. The apartment itself was modern and comfortable with two bedrooms. It is rented through Paulo at VRBO #136986. See the website for pictures and comments from others who have rented it. We paid less than the usual rate as we had originally asked for the one bedroom apartment and when it was booked by Paulo’s wife by mistake to someone else, he offered us this two bedroom at the same rate of 345 Euros for three nights. Raul, Paulo’s representative, met us at the apartment and gave us a tour and orientation. Cash payment for the balance minus the deposit is required at that time. We stayed for 3 nights and really enjoyed it. The noise can be difficult at night but you can easily close the windows and put the air conditioning on. We particularly liked the view from the living room window of the Sao Jorges Castle.

After getting settled in the apartment, we napped for about 2 hours. Refreshed, we then ventured out to get a few groceries and walked about 10 minutes to one block south of the Rossio Station to the Pingo grocery store. After stashing our groceries in our new home, we went back in the direction of the Pingo grocery to the Rossio Square, about a 10 minute walk, and off of the northeast corner to Travessa de Santo Antao to Bonjardim for piri piri chicken and chips – total cost with wine 22 Euros. It was delicious. We ate outside as the weather was fine and the restaurant is on a small quiet street.

After dinner, we wandered through Lisbon's Eating Lane, Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, and ended up at the Eduardino Ginjinha bar at #59 which is really just a small room with a counter. Here you can get a shot of Ginjinha which is Portuguese sweet liquor made from sour cherries for 1 Euro. There are many different counters and bars in Lisbon where you can get Ginjinha but this is the oldest. It was very good. We met a number of people outside the counter enjoying the fine evening weather and their Ginjinha. When I took a picture of several Angolan men who were laughing and drinking up, they invited us along to a disco but we politely declined although it sounded like fun.

From here we walked over to the Elevador da Gloria and took it up to the Barrio Alto. There was a short line but I understand that the line is much longer in the daytime. Also the view is better in the evening with all the lights. This funicular costs 1.40 Euros. At the top there is a lookout over the city which is quite lovely. From here we stopped for a glass of port at the Port Wine Institute then continued walking and ended up at the Cerejaria da Trindade, the oldest beer hall in Europe. It had a long line for tables so we had a beer at the bar. It was crowded and noisy but we enjoyed watching the people and snacking on deep fried cod balls.

Day Two – up early and off on Tram 28 to the Alfama's Campo de Santa Clara - a big flea and food market held on Saturday mornings. We caught the tram at the corner of Rua Garrett. Since we didn’t know where to get off, I asked the woman next to me if she was going to the market and she agreed to tell me where the stop was. This was all done in sign language and the minimal Portuguese I learned from Pimsleurs CDs driving back and forth to work before the trip.

The market is large and has many trinkets, knick knacks, linens, clothes, etc. I bought a table cloth. It’s fun to see all the stuff for sale.

From the market, we caught a cab for 6 Euros to the Sao Jorges Castle. The castle is only ruins but still seems quite charming especially the small garden areas. The view is also quite something. There is a man there who dresses up like a jester and plays music which adds to the atmosphere. We bought a Portuguese dime that had been drilled and sawed into a medallion by a jeweler selling outdoors at the castle.

We then took a walking tour with the Rick Steves book of the Alfama which was quite enjoyable. It is quite a warren of winding streets, unique houses and cafes. We found the A Baiuca restaurant at Rua de Sao Miguel 20 that we had a reservation for later that evening so at least we knew where it was.

After roaming thought the Alfama for awhile, we grabbed another taxi out to Belem to see the Monastery and eat some pastries. The taxi was about 9 Euros. We were feeling hungry so we stopped into one of the outdoor restaurants along the park behind McDonalds. We picked the most crowded one thinking that this meant the food was good and we were right. We shared a plate of grilled sardines and a tomato salad. Watch out for the appetizers that the waiter puts on your table like cheese, ham, bread, olives. Whatever you don’t want, push away or tell the waiter to take it away because these items cost extra, usually 1 Euro for bread but up to 7 Euros for ham, and are never included free. At the end of the meal we had a Galong which is a coffee with lots of hot milk served in a glass – delicious!

Off on the tour of the Monastery of Jeronimos and the cloisters which are lovely. Following our tour, we were very tired so we grabbed a couple of tarts from the famous patisserie, Casa Pasteis de Belem and caught a taxi home. Late in our trip we met a couple who got quite rattled in the crowd at the patisserie and ended up with a dozen tarts when they only wanted two!

After freshening up, we set out on foot to the Alfama restaurant, A Baiuca, recommended by Rick Steves for dinner and Fado music. When we arrived it was empty so we sat outside to see if others were coming. The restaurant is very small and rustic looking. Soon an American couple arrived also with the Rick Steves book and together we went in and took a table. Within five minutes the place was full and anyone without a reservation was turned away. I had emailed our reservation before we left but you could also phone the day before - [email protected] or 218-867-284. Along with the two Americans, we were joined by a man from Brazil in town on business. He became our official translator of what the Fado songs were about but you really don't need a translator as the songs are universal. There is no cover charge at A Baiuca but you must spend a minimum of 25 Euros each on your meals and wine. The food is not memorable but the ambience and the Fado singing absolutely are. Lydia is the owner and she is charming. The singers are all amateurs and are not paid. They line up outside the doorway and each gets to sing 3 songs. Lydia herself sings 3 songs too and sometimes those standing in line join in. For one of Lydia's songs the cook joined her from the small kitchen. We truly had a wonderful time and I would recomend this restaurant and Fado singing venue to all.

Day Three – off to Sintra by train from Rossio Station. Taking the train to Sintra was easy and we simply showed up at the Rossio Station, bought our tickets and waited for the next train. Trains run every half hour on Sunday mornings and take about a half hour to get there. At the Sintra train station, we took bus # 434 for 4 Euros up to the Pena Palace. This bus loops around the Palace and the other sites. The Pena Palace is quite lovely. Then we followed the walking paths in the Palace gardens which were very tranquil yet interesting as there are several artifacts placed throughout the gardens by the palace royals - you pay an additional small amout to walk in the gardens but it's well worth it. We then walked up the hill to the Moorish Castle and had a tour – there isn’t much left of the castle but it’s still an interesting sight. We caught the bus to the train station after a half hour wait on to a very crowded bus. For dinner we wanted to eat in Sintra but most restaurants were closed until 7:00 so we took the train back to look for a restaurant in Lisbon. Two of the recommended ones in our book were closed so we ended up being talked into a restaurant by a man standing outside hawking the restaurant. He was very charming and we fell for it especailly as by this time we were pretty hungry. And the food was awful – my husband vows never to eat again in a restaurant that has pictures of it’s food posted outside!

Day Four – off to Obidas, Alcobaca and Nazare. I would really have liked to have stayed in Lisbon for another day or two as there was so much we didn’t get to see but I suppose that only means we’ll have to return someday. We grabbed a cab from our apartment to pick up our rental car from Economy Car Rentals – a 4 door Peugot which was quite comfortable although it had no guts at all. It cost about 300 Euros for the 2 weeks we rented it. Gas was expensive, usually 1.25. My husband had the Western Europe maps for his GPS so we were all set and took off for Obidos

December is usually a rainy month in Lisboa because it sits on the Tagus just off of the Atlantic.

For vegetarian and Indian restaurants, seek out the gay neighbourhood of Bairro Alto, just north of Praca Luis Camoes. There used to be a great restaurant called Stasha on the Rue Gaveas, but I don't know if it is still open.

The Gulbenkian is a world-class museum. If you decide to visit Lisboa, I think you should spend a couple of hours there.

Sintra is very beautiful, but I don't know what it would be like in December.

Thin

Sorry risab, I meant just to post the weblink to my report!

thingorgus...is it rainy in Lisbon like Rome in Nov & Dec? Rome can be cold, damp and rainy but it never stopped us from doing things?

...lily thanks for your info...I will check out the apartment.

We also want to go to Sintra & Obidos.

risab. You can start your look for lodgings at
www.chiado-apartments.com. From my experience I can tell you that their customer service is outstanding.
I don't know exactly what you are looking for or your budget. We only do apartments in Lisbon now. So if you are looking for hotels, I cannot give you first hand knowledge of them as we had only used one for two days on our very first trip.
Good Luck.

Sher...I'll check out the link. We don't do hotels either so I am looking for a 2 bedroom apartment - I want to make sure we have a bathroom that has enough warm water for three people to shower, a kitchen with enough utensils for some meals and some pots and pans to do some light cooking - mainly breakfast or lunch. How are grocery stores in Lisbon and/or outdoor markets for purchasing produce?

I checked out the Chiado apartment and it looks lovely.

I also saw a nice apartment on Avenida Liberdade...what is that area like?

What is Alfama like?

We tend to like residential areas but with charm, hip & access to good markets & cafes - in Italy we love the Campo Fiori area & Ghetto, Paris the Marias, and Istanbul the Galata area...what might be akin to those areas in Lisbon (artsy, hip, but not too high rent area...)

Hi risab,
my husband and I plus 2 sons (18yr & 20yr) were in Lisbon last year from 27/12 to 1/1 and had a wonderful time.

A great many of the days were overcast and we often had drizzle on and off but it didn't stop us from doing anything we wanted to. A couple of nights we had torrential rain and strong winds but again we weren't particularly bothered.

We rented a house through visitingportugal.com and I have nothing but praise for the proprietors, Deb and Jordan, who lived a couple of doors down from the property (Casa Patria) on Rua Joaquina. Location was perfect - 186 steps and 2 minutes walk to Rossio Square. The house was spread over 3 levels - bottom - huge queen sized bedroom; middle - kitchen, bathroom and queen sized bedroom; top - sofa bed, tv and computer. While we didn't make use of it there was a small terrace with bbq facilities.

Deb and Jordan were wonderful hosts and when our 18yr old became ill first Deb came with us to the local pharmacist and then Jordan took us to the private hospital and stayed with us while we saw a specialist, acting as interpreter. They treated us like part of the family - nothing was too much trouble for them.

We are not 'foodies' but one of the best experiences we had was eating at Cafe Glacial on Rua de Arsenal - a very small cafe with wonderful food and warm and welcoming owners.

risab. There is a two bedroom, two bath apartment in the building where we rented the one bedroom. It is in the same building that Lily stayed in.

I have found in all of my research of Lisbon that there are an abundance of wonderful apartments. We tend to like to stay in central areas where the metro can whisk us off in a moment to all of the things we want to see.

As you probably know by now, Lisbon is a city of many hills and many cobble stoned streets. After walking up and down and over those side walks we prefer the one floor places with elevators that we seem to rent lately. Another consideration is air conditioning but you will not have to be concerned with that in Nov. and Dec. But good heating would be nice if the weather turns damp.

If you like Campo di Fiori, you will love Chiado. There is always something going on. There are cafes at your fingertips, the metro is a step away, the grocery store Pingo Doce about five minutes. The food court at Armazens do Chiado a great place for a quick coffee or snack. The Barrio Alto is up the street. The Alfama is very colorful but talk about hills and steps!

But of course all of this is very subjective. I know one thing you will not have a shortage of places that you will like. You may have a difficult time making up your mind.

Good Luck.

To Everyone: All of this info has been great. My daughter and I have been looking at apartments on several of the rental sites (some mentioned here) and some I got on tripadvisors Lisbon forum.
There are so many lovely options (but of course it is good to have a referral). So I feel that we will certainlly find something and that this will be a very interesting trip.

We were torn between Lisbon or Naples for this trip but since our daughter will be spending the following year in Italy (first Firenze & then Sicily) she's convinced us to do Naples then (before heading to Sicily...my other dream destination).
...she said we need to go to a new country so, if all goes well, it will be Lisbon.

I would stay in Chiado. It is a good, central location. Easy to get the Metro or get to Rossio Station.

I would not stay on Av. Liberdade. This is a major "shopping" street, what you would call a "high" street in the UK.

Alfama is very beautiful, but you have to go up and down that hill all day long, although you could take the tram.

Thin

I did a video last Christmas of all the lights and the big tree that usually sits onto of the park please take a look to wet your appetite for next Christmas in Lisbon We took a family on tour and the little 6 year old boy christened the Avenida da Liberdade Icicle Street enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRlbrIMO-WU