I also want to mention the Mercado de Campo di Ourique which has anchored the handsome low-rise residential neighborhood of Campo de Ourique since the 1930s and was turned into another hip, urban market a year or so ago with the addition of upscale vendors offering a range of tempting looking treats. The market stays open late and while it looks smaller than the Ribeira Market, it still appears well worth the 10 or 15 minute taxi ride from Chiado.

We were in the neighborhood on our fourth evening in Lisbon when we had a table booked at Peixaria da Esquina, a streamlined contemporary showcase for the cooking of star Chef Victor Sobraj, formerly known as Cervejaria da Esquina.

Marinated, cured, grilled, or braised--however you like your fish, the kitchen will comply. We were one of only a few occupied tables when we arrived about 7:30pm but the pale wood space soon filled up with what looked to me like locals.

We had a very good meal here, which began with bread and cheese (the cheese is makred on the bill as "Queijo Etorna"--can a Portuguese speaker here tell me what that means, as I cannot figure it out) , for which there was a total charge of 6 euro.

I followed with a healthy portion of razor clams, a shellfish I order when I see it, which is not too often in the US. (Although they are a fixture of the menu at Casa Mono, a Spanish restaurant that I like in New York City)

We shared a lovely grilled grouper, which even satisfied the partner, which is not always the case with fish.

With a bottle of local wine and a half-liter of water, the bill came to 61 euro.

After walking over to the Mercado de Campo di Ourique and wandering around inside, we followed the custom we had initiated the first night: A stop at the Amorino gelato shop located a tad too close to our hotel at Rue Garrett, #49. Even the "small" cups allow the buyer to choose as many flavors as he or she likes! We loved that place!!

http://mercadodecampodeourique.pt/


http://www.peixariadaesquina.com/omenu.php


http://www.amorino.com/us/philosophy...ato-maker.html

Are you sure it wasn't Queijo Entorna? google translate says that means cheese sprinkles.

The name is "queijo de entorna", means spill cheese - due to it's consistency. It's a recent cheese, from Alentejo region, very similar to the very well known, and very expensive, "queijo da serra" (mountain cheese).

Thanks so much. I did get the spelling wrong..no wonder I could not find it online. Good to know. I was amazed at how wonderful all of the cheeses were that we tried. I wish I had brought some home with me.

And the fruits!!! In the US, and I imagine Canada, we get tropical fruits mostly from Latin America but I think Portugal must get them from the Azores and from Africa and they sure were superb...the papaya and the pineapple especially.

I just noticed that there is a new (9/16) book on restaurants in Lisbon, I've no idea of the credentials of the author or how he derived the listings, but the #1 restaurant is CERVEJARIA RAMIRO.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisbon-Restau...e%3A1250227011

While I realize that not everyone who travels to Spain and Portugal returns with 27 cans of tinned seafood, I do believe that the conserva shops in Lisbon are well worth a visit in order to behold the vast array of gorgeously packaged merchandise lining the shelves. Galicia and Cantabria may offer a greater variety of seafood delicacies but when it comes to sardines, Lisbon is the mecca. There are baby sardines, sardines in mustard sauce, large sardines, sardines in piri piri sauce, sardine pates, sardines in lemon, smoked sardines, sardines witih or without skin and bones. Sharing shelf space are mackerel, tuna, squid, octopus, and the eggs of various sea creatures.

While you will find tinned seafood in many Lisbon shops including Corte Ingles, I'd recommend a visit to the specialists; we liked these two very much and received gracious and helpful service at both addresses:


In Cais do Sodre near the Ribeira market, where there is currently some disruptive street construction, LOJA DAS CONSERVAS (House of Canned Fish) is a cooperative featuring the wares from the major brands of Portuguese tinned fish. The shop is lovely and there are samples to help you decide among the scores upon scores of offerings. Rua do Arsenal, #130.

http://lisboacool.com/en/shop/loja-c...north-to-south


In Loja das Conservas you can walk around and browse, while at the miniscule mosaic-floored CONSERVEIRA DE LISBOA on Rua do Bacalhoeiros, the genial sales people serve clients from behind a counter in front of wooden shelves piled to the ceiling with more than 100 varieties of tinned seafood of three different producers. So here it helps to know more or less what you want, since there is often a line of shoppers waiting to be served. Most offerings are under 3 euro but, like at LOJA, specialty items including ventresca tuna cost more (I paid 6.95 for a tin of ventresca packed in olive oil, which compares very well with prices for imported Spanish back in the US; the cost will vary depending on brand, and size of can). In both shops, purchases are beautifully wrapped. Neither will ship to the US.

http://www.conserveiradelisboa.pt/en

Ekscrunchy and all interested in Portugal. The December issue of Travel and Leisure magazine has chosen Portugal as the Destinarion of the Year. The article has information on Lisbon and Porto as well as other locations. A good resource for those planning a trip to Portugal.

No visitors to Lisbon need to be reminded about the Pasteis de Belem, the delectable flaky egg-custard-filled rounds also known as Pasteis de Nata. We took a taxi to Belem for a visit to the glorious Jeronimos Monastery, final resting place of Vasco da Gama and prime example of the architectural style known as Manueline, after 16th-Century King Manuel I.

But even before slipping into the monastery, we stopped at the ANTIGA CONFEITARIA DE BELEM, the legendary purveyor whose 800-pus-degree ovens reportedly churn out more than 10,000 pastries a day according to a "secret recipe" dating from the monastery's bakers.

http://pasteisdebelem.pt/en/history/



One can either line up for take out at the front counter, of make their way through a warren of interconnected rooms--many, many rooms--and find a seat for table service. We opted for the latter. I had tasted the Pasties de Nata at the bakery across from our hotel, facing Praca Luis de Camoes, where we watched them being filled through giant glass windows. These were excellent as well but the surprise, and the dessert that I preferred, was the Bolo de Bolacha, a feathery multi-layered cake that the waiter referred to as "chocolate cake," but for which most recipes list cocoa and coffee as ingredients. (The recipe does not look too difficult).

Our bill, for 2 Pasteis de Belem, 1 Bolo de Bolacha, 1 coffee, and 1 glass of Moscatel from Setubal, totalled 6.95 euro, pretty reasonable for such world famous, and delectable, treats.

oh yumsk, eck.

Lisbon rising to the top of the list very quickly.

We loved those Pasteis de Belem and were happy to find them in Hong Kong as Macau was a Portugese colony.

Enjoying your report! And glad you liked Loja das Conservas :-)

For those in Paris, there's (hope is still there, it was in 2014) a litlle shop selling only "pastéis de Belém" (I tasted them and yes, they were the originals). The problem is that I'm not sure where, I guess it was in or near St Honoré. If someone is interested may try to search for it.

Helena: http://www.commealisbonne.com/en/

More than a month before our arrival in Lisbon, I tried to book a table for dinner at BELCANTO, the Michelin two-star and Repsol three-suns flagship restaurant of Chef Jose Avillez. Alas, no tables were available for any of the five nights of our stay. (Lunch was available, however)

But a few days before our arrival, we were advised that a last-minute cancellation has freed up a table for our last night in the city. I arrived with some trepidation, hoping that my lofty expectations would not be dashed.

I needn't have fretted, as we had an excellent, if not life-changing meal savored in a placid, cozy dining room of ivories, taupes, and blacks highlighted by a chisled paneling and a wall of leather-bound books. As might be expected from a chef who trained with Ducasse, Adria, and Eric Frechon, among others, every dish was very good, all were creative and beautiful compostions on the plate, and two were "close your eyes" great. (I know I've ascended to the culinary heights when I fall silent, shut my eyes, and just revel in the flavors in my mouth.)

Although à la carte is possible, as first time diners, we thought that one of the two tasting menus would afford us a good sampling of Chef Avillez' signature creations. Now that I've had some of these, I would probably go the a la carte route if I am fortunate enough to return. We each chose the Lisbon Menu, seven courses including two desserts, for 125 euro. (We were treated to several amuse as well).

The first amuse was a trio of faux olives, reflecting Avillez' molecular credentials. Several breads were excellent, and served witha choice of three lavish flavored butters.

Next the waiter placed an actual flower pot on the table, complete with flowers. Ensconced among them: Two cones of tuna temaki, more elaborate incarnations of the dish I had sampled at MINI BAR a few nights before.

The first course, "Porthole" is one of the most visually astounding dishes I've seen. Rather than describe the appearance, I'll post this link of the morsels of shrimp, clams, barnacles, and seaweed arrayed on a backdrop that resembled the view from a porthole to the bottom of the sea:

https://worlditineraries.files.wordp.../lisbon-17.jpg

The next dish was Avillez' signature "Garden of the Goose that Laid the Golden Egg," a glorious melange of textures and flavors with a sous vide egg encased in gossamer edible gold leaf with crispy bread dyed with cuttlefish ink and miniscule mushrooms. Unforgettable.



http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fgaZr7QFN5...0/DSCF5494.JPG



Dinner proceeded to include the chef's vision of Pot a Feu, a delectable filet of Sea Bass bathed in seawater, and my favorite savory course: A rectangle of suckling pig with a crust as crispy and delicate of any I've ever eaten. Just smashingly, close-your-eyes great!

I also adored the Tangerine dessert, a giant orange ball of goodness and one of two sweet courses presented before the petit fours.

Although it meant foregoing a second seafood feast at RAMIRO, I was very glad that BELCANTO had found a table for us on our last night in Lisbon.
with a bottle of 2015 Thyro Arinto, our dinner was a splurge and the second most expensive meal of our three-week trip.

http://belcanto.pt/en/kitchen.aspx

ekscrunchy,
Just to say thank you for all your foodie details - you have a patience for describing it all and a palate I admire. I always look forward to your food focused reports and I've used your recommendations on multiple trips including Puglia, Mexico City and other places in Italy including around Paestum and Ischia if I remember rightly.
I'm in NYC through June and I've already paid attention to your feedback on dining here...I actually thought to myself the other day (without knowing you at all) I must go out to Queens for Chinese food sometime I know ekscrunchy would have an opinion on where to go!
Thanks for al of it!

wow - love the food pics - that "porthole' dish is amazing.

BTW you're not the only one to fail to get a table at a sought after restaurant - even Rick Stein couldn't get one at a top place in Copenhagen. Not even for ready money.

Thanks a lot to both of you for your comments.

WTB: Here is an older thread that has information on Chinese restaurants in Flushing; the info is still accurate but Little Pepper has moved to College Point which is reachable only with a car, or by a train/bus combination. I will come back and give you more ideas as soon as I have more time:



http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...estaurants.cfm

Lobo: yes, that's the place!

ekscrunchy the recipe for coktail Lisboa:

http://observador.pt/2015/02/14/form...z-para-o-amor/

(I knew I had seen it somewhere!)

Seems like you found what you were looking for in Lisboa, a city of many surprises as well as unique traditions. Yet there are many angles you didn't explore, food wise, so if you do get to go back, there are more delicious surprises for you. Elsewhere in Portugal too.

I just received my new issue of Travel and Leisure and it names Portugal as the 2017 Destination of the Year.

Going back to Lisbon in May.