Lisbon Fado
 

Can anyone recommend a good restaurant/bar for Fado in Lisbon. We'll be there in early October, and want to experience it in a setting that's not too touristic, or at least not filled with large tour groups. We're not late night people, so our preference would be either a place that serves dinner before the show (cost not an issue but good food is important) or one that just has a cover and/or drinks. Thanks to all Fodorites - Claire

It's a good question.

I went to Senhor Vinho. It was an ok experience for me. I think that this just isn't something that I really appreciate. Food is ok.

I won't be going to Lisbon again any time soon, but I'm curious to see what people suggest anyway.

In 2002 while visiting Lisbon with an organized tour we stop at Café Luso for a Fado Evening (Noite de Fado).The food was good and the show and music excellent. But we are not connaisseur.

The place is located at : 10 traverssa da Queimada; tel: 213 422 281 email: [email protected]

The greatest fado singer of all time was Amalia Rodriques. The day she died (1999), my Portuguese husband cried. He had to leave Manhattan to go back to Lisboa to stand in streets with all the other mourners on the day of her funeral, which supposedly rivaled Princess Di's.

If you want to understand something of fado, you should listen to some of Amalia's music before you head to Lisboa. There are some fado houses off of Rua Miseracordia in Chiado. If you wander around the side streets you will find one. If you really want to find a good place, ask one of the patrons at Cafe Brasiliera. They are a fantastic source of all kinds of information. You may even see my ex-husband, Rogerio, there. :)

I prefer Parreirinha de Alfama, in Alfama district of course. Ask in the hotel to do reservations for you because the place is quite small.

Thanks to all of you. Listening to fado beforehand is a great idea - thanks for that tip!
Lobo - Does Parreirinha de Alfama serve dinner, or just drinks and a cover? Claire

Parreirinha de Alfama is a Restaurant. You are expected to arrive by 8.30 pm and leave by 11.30 or midnight. There is no stage or electronic amplifiction. With intervals of 25 or 30 minutes you'll notice that the ilumination is lowered, and an artist (mail or female) and two instrumentists (playing a Portuguese fado guitar - heart shaped and a classical guitar) took place in a space strategicaly empty in the middle of the restaurant space. After the lowering of the lights, the conversations should stop and it's absolutely forbiden to keep talking while the singer is singing. If you fail this rule, the artists and the remaining of the audience will let you know. It's allowed to proceed with the meal, but doing as low noise as possible.
The authenticity of Parreirinha is guaranted by the owner Mrs Argentina Santos, one of the leading fado performers in Portugal. It's not sure that the owner sings herself, but it happens often.
By the end, the singers try to sell some CDs of their own, but the clients are free to accept or refuse.
Within a short distance form Parreirinha there is Fado Museum worthing a visit.
Parreinha has usually an internacional audience, but I can witness that it is "the real thing". The prices of the meals, but considering that include a live performance, are very reasonable.

This ttt is for the benefit of claire_david, who I believe, failed to see my reply.
Sorry to the other fodorites.

Thanks Lobo - we've been away a few days and just returned to the computer! This sounds like just the place! The more authentic, and less American-touristy, the better. I'll have our hotel make the reservation for us - Claire

You have been given some excellent suggestions. Just my two cents, a friend of mine whose family is from Lisbon & visits Lisbon every year, recommended Senhor Vinho's. There info is:

Senhor Vinho (reservations recommended)
Rua do Meio a Lapa, 18
21-397-26-81
www.restsrvinho.com

I went by myself and enjoyed it so much that I had to go out the next day and buy a few CD's - Amalia Rodriques was a must! I'll be curous to hear what you end up doing. I want to get back just so I can compare other places to this one - plus I became a big fan of Lisbon.

Kansas59 - Yet another one to consider! Is Senhor Vinho also a restaurant, and if so, is the food pretty good? Thanks - Claire

I actually mentioned Senhor Vinho too (see the second post on this thread). But I can see how you missed my lukewarm suggestion.

I don't think that it reflects badly on them though.

Have a great time!

I should add that Senhor Vinho is probably one of the best recommendations that Time Out Lisbon gave (in the Fado section). If you don't have that book you might want to see if you can get a copy and flip through the listings.

111op - Busted! Yes, your suggestion didn't sound very enthusiastic, I must agree. I've listened to a little fado online now, thanks to ThinGorjus, and find it unusual, so I can understand your comment better.

ThinGorjus, by the way, you are to be commended on being so respectful of your ex-husband. Most of us aren't so kind! It's a nice attitude and keeps the tone very upbeat.

I do see both places recommended by various sources, so I appreciate all of your opinions. Claire

It's really no big deal, claire_david. As I said, I'm lukewarm about fado. I tend to listen to classical. Outside of that, it really all sounds the same to me. :-)

The restaurant, though, I must say, was not exceptional.

But as you've found out, Senhor Vinho is widely recommended (so that's why I went). I want to clarify that my "non-recommendation" is not necessarily a no for the establishment. It's, to some extent, personal preference.

Enjoy your trip!

Does one have to be able to understand the Portuguese language in order to appreciate fado ?

Of course not! Just use your imagination.

listen for yourself: http://jjwaltz.tripod.com/fado.html

PS I heard some really good fado singers audition a Sat evenings inside castello de sao jorge which was free for people who had a ticket to see the castle.