dln

This is a multi-layered question that's been on my mind for a while, only I haven't worked up my druthers before now to post it. It's about restaurants mainly. From what I can gather, Romans consider dining an experience to be savored for hours. And hours. I have visions of being held captive in Roman restaurants, hovering over my plate watching my hair turn gray and my flesh wrinkle and wither before the waiter hands us our bill. Is this really true? My husband and I have less than a week in Rome and although we do plan to pace ourselves sensibly, I don't know if I want to do that pacing over dinnertime!! Here's my other worry. I eat slowly; DH Hoovers his food down. I'm the talker in this marriage and he's the listener. If I'm chewing, more likely than not, all he'll be doing is watching me, waiting for me to carry on the conversation after I've swallowed. DH's forte is accurate, to-the-point, funny little comments. We've been happily married for nearly 20 years and this hasn't been a problem because I learned early on always to dine out with friends. Works great at home, but we're on our own in Italy. I'd rather spend my time strolling the streets in companionable silence than do it in a restaurant.

So that's the background. What I've read about in guidebooks are these food places called tavola calda. Quick, good food. Can anyone tell me from personal experience about these? Can we can a decent meal at a hot food bar? I have some recommendations in the Campo de Fiori area. Any others? Also, I know that food eaten standing up at the bar is less expensive. Is this literally standing up, or (just out of curiosity) are there barstools to plunk our fannies down on? And, is it considered bad manners to walk around the city with one's gelato?

I'm not absolutely opposed to restaurant dining, only hours of it. I'd be very grateful to hear about eating out in Rome, because maybe I'll find out from all of you that I've just worried myself over something that was nothing. And can we also talk about what you ordered--great primi, secondo, etc (see, I'm trying to bone up on the lingo). DH and I really are looking forward to Italian food of all kinds, just not so....slowly.

StCirq

I never felt that I was forced anywhere in Italy, and certainly not in Rome, to spend hours and hours savoring dinner when I didn't want to. Of course, the pace in general is slower than in the USA, but we have generally managed to linger over dinner and still get out of a restaurant in an hour and a half or two hours on average. Spain is much worse in that respect, IMO.

We haven't opted for tavole calde very often, so I can't speak to your question about that, but I don't think you really have the option to stand up in a bar and eat DINNER. Maybe you do and I"ve never noticed, but I think that distinction applies to coffee-type bars where you can stand at the bar and have a coffee and a roll or something and pay less than if you park yourself at a table where the waiter has to move to serve you.

It is definitely NOT bad manners in Italy to wander the streets licking a gelato - it's one of the great delights of an Italian vacation, actually, and you will see many Italians enjoying the same activity.

Kmarie

We enjoyed our evening dinners. You must realize you probably won't go for dinner until 8-9 pm. Many of the restaurants in Rome don't even open until 7 or after. By that time in the evening we were all stolled out!! The length of time it takes depends on the number courses you have. Late in the evening after a couple of snack stops during the day 3 courses were usually as many as we could handle.

Intrepid

I don't think you'll have any problems eating at the pace you prefer in Rome, or most other locations. Assuming the service where you eat is adequate (and the service speed doesn't have anything to do with folks' desire to linger over a meal necessarily)you should be able to
eat and leave as you wish.

MizzEve

I'm kinda concerned about this as well. I hadn't really given dining much thought, but all these posts re: long dining hours are making me concerned.

I'll be dining alone during my visit. Frankly, it's rather boring to sit for 2 hours alone at a dinner table. In the States I would normally go to a restaurant where I could order at the bar and thus have at least the bartender to engage in conversation.

BeniciaChris

Hi-When are you going to spend your week in Rome?? My husband & I of 20 years will be there end on June next year. If we're there at the same time we could linger over a meal . I have found one can always meet fellow travelers & visit during meals-Chris

capo

Your flesh is likely to wrinkle right in front of your eyes only if you're dining in a Roman bathtub.

You may indeed have to ask your waiter for your bill but it's not as if -- in my experience anyway -- the waiter is going to refuse to give it to you because he's terribly offended that you're not spending enough time savoring your dining experience. (Perhaps this may happen in fancy-schmancy-elegancy restaurants but I wouldn't know because I avoid them.)

Before going to Rome for the first time two years ago, I read about tavola caldas too. We tried a few for lunches and enjoyed most of them. But the one that I really loved, happily returned to on my second trip last year, and would highly recommend is the Antica Tavola Calda del Corso, on a corner on the west side of the Via del Corso, about 2-3 blocks north of Piazza Venezia. Mouth-watering selections, relatively inexpensive, and packed at lunchtime with (it seemed) mainly locals.

KathrynT

Restaurant meals can go on a long time if you order many courses, but we found that if we only ordered one or two courses our meals took no longer than at home. Also, if you go early when the restaurant just opens your service should be quicker.

ira

MizzEve wrote
>Frankly, it's rather boring to sit for 2 hours alone at a dinner table. <

You will be in Italy. It is against the rules to let a woman dine alone.

Bring a small book, preferably one with leather covers and gilt edges.

When someone says, "Buona Sera, Signorina" look up and either smile or go back to your reading.

Intrepid

And please ignore the rather ridiculous post above telling you that the waiter will refuse to bring you a bill..total BS...when you ask for it, they'll bring it with no questions, funny looks, etc.

dln

I knew you'd all reassure me! We're just about a month off from leaving and I'm over-examining all the minutae of the trip...

StCirq--If we can eat in under 2 hours, well, that's perfectly reasonable! Thanks for that.
Kmarie--makes sense about the number of courses. I was half worried that we'd be pressed to eat all the courses offered, but obviously that's not the case. We'll save the whole shebang, primi, secondi, zuppe et al for hungry nights.
Intrepid--your advice is always so solid and appreciated
MissEve--you'll be there about the same time we will; our subsequent trip reports will be dueling guns in the forum!
BeniciaChris--we'll be leaving the Thursday after Labor Day, so we'll miss you, but otherwise we'd take you up in a jiff. We like company at dinner! It is an excellent idea, though. I should ask closer to the date if anyone else will be in Italy.
Capo--we shall try your Antica, sounds mouthwatering, and we don't do fancy-shmancy either.

Anyone with Italian food stories now?

dln

Oops, didn't thank KathrynT (Going earlier is a good idea, probably will do that since we plan on walking so much) and Ira--If we bump into Eve, it will be because of the gilt-edged book!

Grinisa

Two tavola calda that we enjoyed: Dagino, Galleria Esedra, Via Orlando 75. Wonderful selection of food and scrumptious desserts from Sicily (cassata, cannoli) at very reasonable prices.
Delfino. Largo Argentina. Centrally located, good selection, can be very crowded at lunchtime with Romans on their own lunch hour.
Also, you don't have to eat in a traditional restaurant all the time. Pizzerias can have you in and out very quickly. I like Da Baffetto on Via Governo Vecchio but you will spend a lot of time waiting in line. Also, Dar Filettaro di Santa Barbara on Largo dei Librari near Campo di Fiori serves wonderful fried cod and vegetables in the evening. It's the Roman answer to a fish and chips shop. For real Italian fast food, there is the Autogrille on the Vial del Corso near Via Tritone. Very good food, fast and inexpensive. Insalata Ricca is another option; there are branches all over Rome and the salads are great. One of my favorite trattorie is Dar Pallaro on Largo di Pallaro behind Campo di Fiori. They serve a set menu for about 20 Euro per person including water and wine. The amount and variety of food they bring out is incredible, and all very good. But even with all the courses, they seem to have the pacing just right and you can have a multi course dinner in about an hour and a half.

Tulips

I have never found restaurants in Italy to be slow with serving, but then I live in Belgium, where a 3 hour meal is not at all unusual. When we visit the US, we are sometimes shocked at how fast the food is served, even in better restaurants. Also, being presented with the bill without having asked for it is considered to be very rude here, but this seems to be standard in the US. Also, restaurants in Europe (with the exception of London) don't count on table turnover as much; if you want to linger over your meal, you can without being told that your table is reserved for someone else later. Of course much depends on what you order. Risottos will take longer, since good restaurants make these on the spot, while a salad will usually be on your table very quickly.

Linda0515

During 8 days in Italy, we found the service extremely consistent: (1) the waiter came fairly promptly to take our order and did so perfunctorily, (2) the food came at an appropriate time (neither too quickly nor too slowly), (3) unlike in the US, the waiter never came back to check if everything was okay or if we wanted anything else (more drinks, coffee)--we had to flag him down, (4) we NEVER received the check without asking for it ("Scuzi! Il conto, por favore&quot, no matter how long we'd been at the table, and (5) once we asked for the check, it always came promptly. So don't be shy about asking for the check when you're ready to leave.

While restaurant menus imply that all Romans eat four courses for dinner, in reality it's perfectly acceptable to order just one course. (Otherwise you'll be fat as a house!) If you're uncomfortable ordering just one course, eat at pizzerias, which often have a great selection of pastas and other food in addition to pizzas and are more casual and less expensive than ristorantes.

Angela_m

Did it ever occur to you that maybe after walking all day and sightseeing, your DH and you will enjoy sitting for a few hours talking about the day's events over dinner?

dln

Sorry, Angela, but as I said, I eat slowly; he inhales his food. If he would entertain me while I eat then I would be the happiest girl in the world, but that's not the way it works. He waits for me to say something, then he makes a very succinct comment, then the ball's back in my court. He's a lovable man but dinner ain't his forte. We talk the most when we're walking together, not eating together. Hence, not wanting to have three hour dinners! Although everyone has been kind enough to tell me dinner really isn't an all night affair (unless that what we desire).

MizzEve

Ira, I have no idea what you're talking about.

ira

MizzEve,

As I said, it is against the rules to let a woman dine alone in Italy.

You are going to have men introduce themselves and suggest that you might like to have company for dinner.

Reading the book allows you to ignore them.

If you don't wish to ignore them, you can put down the book.

MizzEve

Oic

I didn't understand the leather bound, gilt edges comment.quot;>

As far as dinner company....could I just have all the men line up so that I could pick the best one before allowing anyone to sit with me? Or, would that be rude?