Les Baux — Should I Skip It?
 

So I have one day in my upcoming Provence trip in mid- to late-September for exploring the Alpilles. We've been to the region before, and will be giving St.-Remy and St.-Paul de Mausole a pass since we've already seen these.

Glanum and Les Antiques are must-sees for us. We'd also like to visit Montmajour, Barbegal, and St.-Gabriel. But I think I won't have time to see both Les Baux and some of the other Alpilles towns I've bookmarked.

I understand that Les Baux is a must-see according to most, and that it has 22 sites on some sort of historic register. I also understand it's incredibly touristy and filled with shop after shop. I probably won't visit the castle.

So what would you do? Tour Les Baux (village), or give myself extra time for villages like Eygalieres and Mausanne? I'm leaning toward the latter.

You should go with your instincts. I've been there and the way you describe it is pretty accurate. Of course, for those with an interest in its sites/sights, they can easily overlook and forgive the downsides of the place.

I would consider it a must, but it will also still be there in a hundred years, so you can come back some other time.

I have noticed whenever Les Baux is discussed here that most people talk about the village (trashy tourist shops as far as I am concerned although the soap always smells nice) and most say that they did not bother to visit the ch teau (or else it was "too late" or they were tired). Well, it's pretty obvious that they didn't, because there isn't really a ch teau at the top, but there are splendid ruins on a vast plateau with a 360° view of the Alpilles. Every five years or so when I pass through the area, I spend at least a couple of hours scrambling around the ruins, and it is the highlight of the area for me, along with the Carrière des Lumières, which I don't like as much as I used to. The former operator charged three times less for the tickets and it was not overcrowded in the summer the way it is now -- I am nostalgic for those times and will not go there again unless I am in the area completely out of season.

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

That's some great insight, kerouac. So it sounds like my best bet would be to arrive early and go straight to the chateau. When I'm done taking in the views, perhaps I can stop by some of the churches and other historic sites on my way out.

That decided, favorite Alpilles villages? St.-Remy, Les Baux, Eygalieres, and Mausanne get a lot of ink. What about places like Mouries, Aureille, Eyguieres, or Fontvieille? I don't necessarily need a ton of historical import if the experience of visiting the town itself justifies a stop. I'm all for local color.

I've never been a fan of Fontvieille. I like Eygalieres. Here is something from my Cote d'Azur & Provence itineraryExplore Eygalieres. Walk up the R de la Republic, which becomes R du Doctor Roque Joannes. Keep walking up to an old ruined fort. Try to visit Eygalieres when the shops are open (not during lunch closing). After Eygalieres, continue on the #2 drive (in the green Michelin guide) to Maussane. The drive along the D78 is especially pretty. From Maussane, head north to Les Baux & take the D27 north of Les Baux. Stop at Caves du Sarragon for a fantastic view of Les Baux.

Stu Dudley

>> So it sounds like my best bet would be to arrive early and go straight to the chateau. When I'm done taking in the views, <<

Actually, that is a bad "bet". The views of the Alpilles are facing east - so the sun will be in your face and you won't see anything. The last time we went there (we were staying for 2 weeks just west of St Remy), we visited St Remy in the morning to avoid the crowds, and then returned much later in the day to admire the views of the Alpilles.

Stu Dudley

I went because I was interested in it historically. I don't see what shops has to do with anything, you don't go to LEs Baux to go shopping, I hope. I suppose there were some but it certainly didn't affect my enjoyment of the site in any way, because they aren't there, they are before it. There are shops near any major tourist attraction, what else is new.

If you have no interest in the site, which it sounds like you don't, then no, of course you shouldn't go. But not going because some shops are nearby makes as much as much sense as refusing to see Notre Dame (when you could) because there are shops selling souvenirs on nearby streets.

I don't ever relate to the idea of anything being a "must see" for everyone in the world, people have different interests.

I don't even remember any shops in Les Baux, and I've been there half a dozen times, so I guess I'm clueless. But I don't go much of anywhere for "shops." You go for the ruins on the big plateau and the pretty much overpowering sense of history and the chateau.

I'd love to know what "local color" is.

I also think Eygalières is pretty special. Nice town.

"the customs, manner of speech, dress, or other typical features of a place or period that contribute to its particular character."

In that case, I am a bit sorry to say that in most of these towns "local color" is actually "tourist color," even more so because so many of the restaurants and shops are operated by urbanites from other places. To get "local color" you often have to go to places that tourists do not frequent -- or else to big cities where the tourists are outnumbered like Marseille or Nice.

Then again, most tourists will never notice the difference, except in places like Dordogne where the market sellers speak with Dutch or English accents. But that's kind of fun, too.

Of course. I'm not expecting to find any of that in a place like Le Baux. I was using the phrase in regard to the Alpilles villages I named where, supposedly, not many tourists go. I also wonder if the towns in the Terre de Provence agglomeration (Chateaurenard, Rognonas, Noves, etc.) would be worth visiting for the same reasons.

We used Les Baux as a base for touring sites in the area and liked it. That was more than 30 years ago. Our hotel was in the old town and required half board, although we got an exception for one evening meal. The chateau charged admission until may be 5 pm, so we went after that time. The views were quite impressive as sunset came on. We took one look at the tourist shops, with no purchases tempted. Ate at a Michelin starred restaurant. Took daytrips to, I think, Pont du Gard, Orange, Glanum and St Remy, and someplace else (Orange?). The old quarry was not yet a theater. I think it was used as a church. Time has passed, the memories remain pleasant.

I used the Les Baux area as a June les Alpilles base for a two-week stay, staying on a wine/olive estate just below the site, off the D5.

What is most impressive to visit, at least for me, are the castle ruins...for the history as well as for the breathtaking views.
I'm very glad that I toured the chateau ruins with the (free) audio guide. I could wander on my own around the battlements of the medieval stronghold, the Ville Morte, listen to the history and explore the dungeons, the crumbling towers and all the remnants at leisure. It was lots of climbing around, but worth it.
I was also happy that I went early at 9 am, due to the factors of the heat, the intensity of the tourist crowds (the site receives 2 million tourists/year) and the scarcity of parking down below later in the morning. I found the site extremely impressive, once beyond the tourist shops in the lower village.
I also returned one evening to a sound and light show.

So I wouldn't miss it or the Cathédrale d'Images. And if you'd like to pick up a bottle of award-winning wine or olive oil, you might want to stop in at the shop of Mas de la Dame (the estate where I based).

Mausanne-les-Alpilles, where we did our daily shopping and some dining, is a town that I loved and could happily live there! Unfortunately we didn't get to Eygalières, but I have it on my to do list for the future.

FWIW, I was well aware that what it was too late to visit on the day I was in the area was a set of ruins on a plateau with stunning views, but I referred to it using the terms in all of my guidebooks, including the Michelin Green and Rough Guides -- that is, I referred to it as a chateau.