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Last-minute advice for Italian Dolomites?

Last-minute advice for Italian Dolomites?

Old Jun 25th, 2001, 03:55 PM
  #1  
Bill
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Last-minute advice for Italian Dolomites?

We're taking off in a week for a trip that has us flying in and out out Munich, but a good bit of our time will be spent in the Italian Alps. We'll be staying in Cortina d'Ampezzo and Castelrotto for a few nights each and we'll have a car. Any advice? Interested in fairly easy hikes, great little shops, great food... and anything else you care to mention.
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 04:38 AM
  #2  
Ann
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Go and see www.sunrise.it/cortina/alberghi/corona
Good Hotel with reasonable price in Cortina, five minutes walking to the city-centre in a panoramic position.
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 06:11 AM
  #3  
Mike
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Bill,I stayed in Ortisei last summer having received all sorts of advice on this forum.do a search on Ortisei to see what turns up.Our highlight was to see the "Iceman" an ancient corpse found in the frozen area of the Dolomites.The remains are on display in Bolzano,which may be out of your way,but well worth a visit.We used the Cadogan guide book on the region.Mike.
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 06:21 AM
  #4  
jodi
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Trento...the frescos that were done to attract the Germans on their way to the sun on the OUTSIDE of the buildings have been restored, the council of Trento was signed here...the Neptune Fountain in the piazza pretty spectacular...the walking quite nice...stay @ the Golden Feather. Asolo...in the foothills pretty spectacular! Eat there @ the family style place on the right as you walk to the Villa Cipriani...you walk through the shop area and eat in/on the porch overlooking the mountains. REC: grilled veal chops over the fire built in the field below you, the soup made with checken broth, old bread and cheese. Also, buy @ the bakery in town, just beyond the square. Look for the castles tucked in the mountains and the trains for briefs trips.
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 07:01 AM
  #5  
BOB THE NAVIGATOR
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Have a great time Bill--I know you have spent alot of time on this trip. One idea is to go to www.initaly.com and under REGIONS click on TRENTINO and find the article on the wine road that runs south of Bolzano. I have done that one and it is fun, if you have the time.
I plan to stay in Castelrotto in Oct. for one nite heading north. I have stayed in Ortisei twice before and love the entire area. Buon viaggio !
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 07:42 AM
  #6  
Peg
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I enjoyed the little town of Val Gardena (near Castlerotto, we stayed there at Cavalinno d'Oro). Saw a cute and colorful puppet show near the fountain in the square and purchased a lot of hand carved wine stoppers as gifts for friends at home. You will love the area, couldn't be prettier!
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 05:56 PM
  #7  
Ladybug
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Bill, I hope you'll be a real good regular guy and post a detailed travelogue after your trip. Am looking forward to using your experiences to prepare for our Fall trip. Thank you, and may you have a wonderful time!
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 06:43 PM
  #8  
tonyccc
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Bill;
We are also taking off for Northern Italy for 17 days in less than a week.
After 4 days near Modena we are traveling to the Dolmites for 3 nights near Merano, quite a bit west of
Cortina d'Ampezzo and a little west of Castelrotto.
Although we have traveled extensively in Italy, we have never visited this region.I appreciate "latching on" to the responses you've got on you inquiry.
We plan to spend sometime in the Parco Naturale di Tessa and the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, both of which are close to Merano, and do some easy
2 to 3 hour hikes.
We will also plan to visit Bolzano and castelrotto. Bob, thanks for the info on the wine road.
After we depart Merano, we head for Verona for several nights where the opera awaits.
Bill, hope you have a pleasant trip
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 08:18 PM
  #9  
Bill
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Thanks, folks, for the useful info. I should have mentioned we'll be at Hotel Menardi in Cortina and Cavallino d'Oro in Castelrotto.

I'll be sure to post an extensive follow-up when we return.

As Bob-the-Nav and some of you others may recall (from several posts on the forum a while back), we're going to be in Europe at the same time as our two sons (ages 11 and 15)... but only cross paths with them for two nights. The boys leave day after tomorrow for a concert tour with their boys' choir. They're going to Rotterdam, several small towns in Germany, Salzburg, Vienna, Bratislava, Venice, Pisa, Florence, and Rome. A lot of concerts or masses at some really impressive places (Salzburg Dome, Stephansdom, Abbey of Melk, Weiskirke, St. Peter's at the Vatican). I'll fill you in on their trip too... with a bit of choirboy perspective.
 
Old Jun 26th, 2001, 08:59 PM
  #10  
Lexma90
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We visited the area several years ago.

From Cortina, we took several hikes. Unfortunately, my trip notes don't provide many details. One was to Lake Ghedina, which was more like a big pond, with a restaurant/cafe at its side. Another trip started from the cablecar up the Tofane, a nearby mountain. There are several stages to the cablecar, though everyone took it (up the STEEP side of the mountain) past the first stage. Magnificent views! We then walked to the bottom; rather a long walk. We obtained our hiking information from the Tourist Information office in the center of town.

We had dinner one night at Ristorante Tivoli, which had Tyrolean decor but lots of good Italian pasta & other food; somewhat upscale. Another night was at De Beppe Sella, smaller and more local than the first restaurant, but with food just as good.

We spent one day & night in Val Gardena. Gorgeous area, and not much visited by Americans. My parents took a leisurely walk up to the end of the valley; we took a bit more strenuous hike past Juac Hutte to Rifugio Firenze, which appeared to be a popular weekend hiking destination. At dinner, we had a lovely conversation with a young waiter at dinner who confided he was shortly to leave the area for the first time to study in Milan. He asked us (as we'd flown into Milan) if there were many cows there. After minutes of confusion, we all realized he meant the word "crowd!" Also - the miracles of language - he asked us the English word for "cappuccino."

Have a wonderful time.
 
Old Jun 27th, 2001, 05:40 AM
  #11  
Paulo
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I've kind of lost track of your itinerary, Bill. It looks like you'll be driving from Salzburg to Cortina. If that's so, there are a number of possibilities depending on how fast you want to reach Cortina, if the weather is clear or only so so, etc.

When not in a hurry and with clear skies, my preferred itinerary would be:

Salzburg - Kitzbuhel (1 hour driving - 1½ hour stay)
Kitzbuhel - Mittersill - Zell am See - Bruck - Grossglockner (1½ hours driving - ½ hour for panorama viewing)
Grossglockner - Lienz (1 hour driving - 1¼ hour stay)
Lienz - Misurina (1 hour driving - ¼ hour stay)
Misurina - Cortina (20 minutes driving)

This would add to some 5 hours driving + 3½ hours stopping enroute. If that's considered too much, I'd personally choose Kitzbuhel over Lienz. Also, the detour to Misurina is very short and I'd do it no matter what. When in Kitzbuhel, if the weather is less than adequate (knock 3 times ...) it doesn't make much sense going over the Grossglockner.

From Cortina to Ortisei/Castelrotto there are also alternate routes. You'll have to decide if you're cutting through Val Badia (Corvara, Colfosco, San Cassiano) or to drive the more scenic route through the dramatic passes (Pordoi and di Sella). You start out driving up to Pocol, over Falzarego Pass (cable car) and to Arabba. Here you'll have to decide wheather cutting in north or continuing in the direction of Canazei.

In Cortina there are a number of hiking possibilities. You may get the lifts up the Pocol and Tofane and then do some fairly easy hiking in the heights). The hiking from the Pocol down is also a possibility.

Paulo
 
Old Jun 27th, 2001, 05:51 AM
  #12  
Paulo
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... and last but by no means least, you better indeed have a wonderful time. I think I've contributed some in making you decide for the Italian adventure and you don't want me feeling awfully guilty, do you?

Paulo
 
Old Jun 28th, 2001, 03:30 AM
  #13  
Bill
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Hey Paulo -

Yes, you are the guilty one. My original itinerary had us driving across Italy in a few hours, from Lienz to Innsbruck. Quite a change to now be spending half our time there. And thanks for your latest driving tips!

We see the boys off this morning to begin THEIR trip. People ask why we aren't going along as chaperones for the boys' choir (We could have gotten a 17-day trip through Netherlands, Germany, Austria, and Italy for $500 -- the rest subsidized by the choir's fund-raising.) As we sit at a sidewalk cafe in Cortina, with no choirboy crises to resolve, we'll appreciate our decision. Ditto as we drive our rented Audi through the mountains, rather than sitting on the dreaded choir bus!
 
Old Jun 28th, 2001, 05:58 AM
  #14  
lorraine
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The trip you will be taking is breathtaking. We did it this past October. The little towns in the Cortina/Castelrotto area are beautiful. We stayed at a gorgeous relatively inexpensive hotel in Cortina and in Ortisei (at least i think it was Ortisei) stayed at the Grohn Hotel which was family run and lovely. Any and all of these towns were worth seeing
and you will truly enjoy the drive. do look for those bottle stoppers - they are a great conversational piece and I now regret that I didn't buy more while I was there.
 
Old Jun 28th, 2001, 06:00 AM
  #15  
lorraine
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Neglected to mention the name of the hotel in Cortina was the Natale Hotel.
 
Old Jun 28th, 2001, 01:46 PM
  #16  
Paulo
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How long you feel like hiking on a particular day, Bill? What kind of footwear will you bring along? Even in easy hikes it's desirable to have firm footware, specially when the path goes downhill ...
Paulo
 
Old Jun 28th, 2001, 08:15 PM
  #17  
Paulo
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A classic, easy and almost level hike (the level differences in the whole itinerary should add to about 400 mts up and down) is around the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the best known postcard picture of the Dolomite. If you have the Quick Time application in your computer you may have a 360 degree view at
http://www.planetmountain.com/special/VR/dolomiti/3cime.html

This should take about 3 hours. You drive S48b to Misurina Lake and from there fork right into the private (toll) road up to the parking lot at Rifugio Auronzo (2,320mts).
http://enrosadira.it/dolomiti/auronzo.htm

Hiking trail #104 past a small church should get you to Rifugio Lavaredo (2,344mts) in about 25 minutes.

From Rifugio Lavaredo you follow the road up to the Forcella Lavaredo, the highest point of your hike at 2,454mts. The views here are breathtaking (it's from here that the 360 degree shot was taken), certainly rated among the best in all the Dolomites. Forcella Lavaredo should be reached in about ½ hour from Rifugio Lavaredo. Continuing on trail #101 you should reach Rifugio Locatelli (2,438mts) in about 40 minutes.
http://enrosadira.it/dolomiti/locatelli.htm

Trail #105 (part of Dolomiti high route 4) leads you past the Forcella di Mezzo (2,315 mts) back to the parking lot in about 1½ hours.

This hike should be done with clear skies and no winds. Plan to be back home before 4pm (if you don't want to risk being caught by a thunderstorm). Dress warm because it may get pretty cool up there. As an exercise, see how many different flowers you may count (most of which one isn't allowed to pick, though).

Paulo
 
Old Jun 29th, 2001, 03:28 AM
  #18  
Bill
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Paulo -
Sounds fantastic! A perfect hike for us. (Not too bad on the elevation change.)
We'll have medium-weight hiking boots.
Any other hikes that you recommend?
 
Old Jun 29th, 2001, 01:12 PM
  #19  
Paulo
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Have never hiked in the Castelrotto area (nor in Val Gardena for that matter). Have hiked some in Val Badia but I don't think you should go oof your way having the Alpi di Siusi in front of your hotel door. I'd take the lift up the Siusi Alps and take it from there. There should be many options of easy hikes in the high plateau.

Most probably, in Cortina, the Freccia del Cielo cable car to the Tofana shouldn't be in business yet. In case the day is less than perfect for the Tre Cime hike (e.g., low ceiling) you may opt to take the cable car all the way up the Faloria. From there you may hike down to Ristorante Rio Gere (1½ hour) for a break. Next you continue to Malga Larieto and Rifugio Mietres (fine view of the city). Finally you descend to bars Col Tondo and Guargné (roughly following the chairlift). From locality Guargné to center town it's a 15-min stroll. Total time 3/3+ hours hiking.

Near Cortina there are two other 2-hour hikes (not counting time to take the lift up) that I recommend. Either may eventually be done when you drive to Castelrotto. After leaving the city, you'll soon reach the 5-Torri chairlift parking lot (to your left). Take it up and then stroll down through the impressive rock world of the 5-towers. Leaving the 5-Torri the path cuts through the woods back to the parking lot. Driving further to Falzarego Pass you may take the cable car up to the moon like panorama. On top of the Piccolo Lagazuoi there's an open air WW1 museum. There's a long gallery and trenches build during the war. Some 10-15 min stroll from the Rifugio one gets to the helicoidal gallery entrance. Once the opening in the rock are scarce, a flashlamp IS A MUST. After leaving the gallery a path circles the rock back to the parking lot. Though the level difference within the tunnel is impressive (some 350mts) the hike is a piece of cake. My daughters loved and so did I. My wife ... prefers to see panoramas

Paulo

PS. In both Passo Pordoi and Passo di Sella there are chairlifts (to Pordoi and to Sassolungo). I found my way down skiing, though
 

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