Lake Como - which hotel?
 

I am going to Lake como area in September with my mum for a few nights. I have never been to that part of Italy before and would like any suggestions on good hotels. I have been recommended Hotel Royal Victoria in Varenna by my travel agent, but read a bad review on it on Fodors. I've also read that Eremo Gaudio, Hotel du lac and Villa Balbionello are good hotels. Can anyone recommend one over the other?

Villa Balbi<b>a</b>nello is an attraction, not a hotel. And it's one of the most worthwhile things to &quot;see&quot; during a visit to Lake Como (but a visit to Lake Como is not so much about &quot;seeing&quot; - - or for that matter... &quot;doing&quot; anything)...

Search &quot;Eremo&quot; or &quot;Belvedere&quot; or &quot;Menaggio&quot; here on this forum, and you will find a plethora of information on lodging in the three principal towns of the &quot;mid-lake&quot;: Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio.

There is a Grand Hotel <i><b>Victoria</b></i> Menaggio (not to be confused with the hotel called simply &quot;Grand Hotel Menaggio&quot;) in, obviously... Menaggio, and I have never heard of a Hotel Royal Victoria in Varenna (that doesn't mean that it doesn't exist).

I have stayed in the GH<b>V</b>M and I can tell you that there are <u>some</u> fair/mediocre/poor rooms there (but not all) - - there seems to be a consensus that of the two with the similar names GHM is better than GHVM.

Best wishes,

Rex

The Royal victoria is directly on the sort of main square of varenna, across from the church. But since the square is not on the lake (the hotel may have lake views for the rooms at the back of the hotel, I don't know about that) I'd say to try to book another hotel. We have stayed at the GH Victoria in Menaggio and the GH Menaggio in Menaggio. We like them both. I booked friends into the Du Lac in Varenna and they loved that (be sure to get a lake view room) Other good options identified on this board include the Belvedere in Bellagio and the Florence in Bellagio. You'll love Lake Como and its towns.

Hello Suki, Rex has given you all you need to know about Menaggio, but your question is about Varenna. Here is the page you want to look at hotels in Varenna---the Du Lac would be my choice
http://www.varennaitaly.com/english.html

Having labored over this issue several years ago before our first trip there, we finally eliminated the Belvedere as being too much of an uphill walk from the lakefront docks of Bellagio, especially in the dark late at night. We decided we wanted Bellagio, rather than the other towns on either side of the lake (although they would be fine too, of course). We finally decided on Hotel du Lac in Bellagio, not to be confused with a hotel of the same name in Varenna. We had a huge room facing the lake and loved our location right by the lake, but the hotel was a bit dowdy and characterless. Before we left the town we scoured most of the local hotels and firmly decided next trip we would stay in the delightful and very character filled Hotel Florence in Bellagio. In fact, as soon as they start accepting reservations for June of 2006, I'll be reserving our room there.

The only possible drawback I see is that it is not air-conditioned, but I'm not worrying about that right on the lake in June.

http://www.bellagio.co.nz/florence/Florence.html

bobthenavigator was posting while I was composing. Maybe I misunderstood. I didnt' realize you meant you are only looking for Varenna, but that a hotel in Varenna was recommended. Varenna is quite pretty, but my choice for more activity in the evenings and more restaurant choices without having to cross the lake at night is Bellagio. If you are set on Varenna, there is nothing wrong with that, a most charming little village.

Actually if you can stay at Villa Balbionello I'd jump at it -- the prettiest private villa on all of Lake Como in my opionion, but I'm unaware of a hotel by that name.

Patrick makes a good point about the Florence. We've not stayed there, but we've eaten there--both in their wisteria covered outdoor terrace across the street from the hotel and directly on the lake and in their charming, old world dining room with fireplace and ladderback chairs and wonderful food--and we've had many a drink in their delightful bar, one of my favorites in the whole world.

I am probably the one that posts bad things about the Hotel Royal Victoria. I have copied an earlier post of why I don't recommend this hotel, but I just wanted to say that this all happened in September, apparently when the Grand Prix is, in Monza, which isn't very far away, if this is when your trip is, I would DOUBLE not recommend it:

I would not pick Royal Victoria in Varenna. We had a very bad experience with them, if you do a search here you will find my other posts about this hotel. To not rewrite the whole story, we made reservations 6 months in advance for my 50th birthday, reserving a nice room with balcony, we really wanted a swimming pool to relax by, blahblahblah, and 2or3 weeks before we were to arrive, they sent an email with a long draw out story and were cancelling our reservation, offering us a room at their other hotel, which actually I think was the Grand Hotel Menaggio but not sure, at double the price, $400. After many emails both in english and italian, they wouldn't budge BUT offered us a free lunch if we wanted to stop by...you must be kidding. Later, we found out that the Grand Prix was that weekend and they had a group coming in for it and they just flat out got rid of us. I can't say enough bad things about their tactics. One of their stories was that they had lost electriciy during a storm and had lost my reservation...well if that happened how did they still have my email address to contact me and know which days they wanted to cancel...please, stay somewhere else. I hear the Hotel du Lac in Varenna is very nice.

Do yourself a favor: if you can afford it, stay at thje DuLac in Varenna in a lakeview room. Be aware that Varenna is probably much more typical of a small Italian town and the place kinda closes up at sundown except for the restaurants.

Menaggio is the largest, geographically, of the three and has a livlier nightlife than Varenna but that nightlife consists mainly of restaurants/bars and the wonderful gelatto stand in the middle of the &quot;town square&quot; area.

There is also another lakeview property in Menaggio besides the Grand Hotel and the Grand Hotel Victoria which might fit your budget better: the Bella Vista.


Bellagio has been well-described already (and a LOT of people will be over there and there will be more things open at night). But don't get the idea that just because Bellagio is quite popular that you are going to have the shopping and entertainment opportunities of a city because you won't get that in ANY of these three places. (There are only so many times you can look at some of those high-end shops [and lesser-end shops in Varenna and Menaggio] until you've figured out you aren't interested or that you've bought eveything already!

Enjoy the lake..it is a wonderful place to just BE.

I would suggest taking a look at the Hotel Bellagio which is owned by the Hotel du lac. It is a two-star hotel that has recently been redone from top to bottom. Located up a few stairs from the piazza. Rooms are not particularly large but very nice and the staff is great, too. Recommend taking a room on a higher floor with balcony for great views. Hotel is air-conditioned as well which came in very handy during our recent stay. Hotel website is www.hotelbellagio.it

I would like to suggest Villa Cipressi in Varenna. The grounds and gardens are lovely, and so are the views. You really &quot;feel&quot; lake Como when you walk into the lobby. The rooms are not particularly special, but they are absolutely fine and the overall feel and convenience is much better then Hotel Eremo up the hill.

I stayed at the Grand Hotel Mennagio. It's great for families because you can get rooms that can fit four or more people. It had air conditioning, which was lucky for us when the heat wave in 2003 hit Europe. It is easy to cross the lake to Bellagio and Varenna on the ferry, which I recall is walking distance from the hotel.

We were in Varenna in June and &quot;ducked&quot; into the Villa Cipresi. They told us that their rate for a triple was $170 per night. The Cipresi has a fantastic looking lobby and grounds.

Check out the Albergo Milano in Varenna. Wonderful small inn -- just 6 (or 8?) rooms, two with lovely large patios overlooking the lake (140 euros in high season), and the other rooms with side views of the lake and tiny terraces (but also nice, 125 euros!). Rooms are smallish, but well equipped. The owners are very helpful. Breakfast is served in either the small dining room or another nice patio right over the lake. Dinner is available -- we ate there one evening and enjoyed it. I highly recommend this charming small hotel.

You've been given many good recommendations and comments for Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio. I can second the recommendations for the Hotel Florence in Bellagio and the Hotel du Lac in Varenna, both places where we have stayed more than once.

I am not familiar with the Eremo Gaudio, but someone on this forum recently stayed there and enjoyed it very much. Do a search to read that person's comments. Note that this hotel is not in the central area of Varenna.

As far as which town has more evening action, it really doesn't matter. You can spend the evening in any of the towns and return to Varenna on the last ferry. Just make sure you confirm the time of that last ferry from wherever you are to Varenna. If you miss the ferry, (excuse the pun) you're sunk.

Thanks everyone for your helpful tips. Jean, as you have stayed in both Veranna and Bellagio, which one of the two did you prefer? I don't know which is better to stay at, Veranna or Bellagio.

Hi Suki,
I stayed in Varenna, not Bellagio, but visited both. Bellagio has more restaurants, more shops and more tourists. Varenna is quieter, and very charming, but has only 3 or 4 good restaurants, and very few shops.

also, I think Varenna might be easier to get to by train, so if you are not driving, it may be prefereable.

I stayed at the Hotel Du Lac in Varenna, and I loved it. You can probably find my review here somewhere. I think you will be happy with either town.

Varenna has THE only rail station (if you are traveling in that mode) but it is an easy walk (10 minutes all downhill) to the ferry dock for trips over to either Bellagio or Menaggio.

I agree totally with China-cat's recommendations. I've stayed at the DuLac in Varenna and the Grand Hotel Victoria in Menaggio...you'll probably be happy enough wherever you stay (tow-wise) but would definitely agree that there will be more going on after dark in Bellagio (as I stated earlier) and there are definitely more places to shop in Bellagio than in the other two towns combined.

After visiting Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio last month, we were pleased with our choice to stay in Bellagio. We found Varenna to be too small and Menaggio to be not quite quaint enough. In early May Bellagio didn't seem to be overrun with tourists. That said, all three towns are lovely and there are different aspects that appeal to different folks.

We stayed at the Hotel Belvedere in Bellagio. The hill is not necessarily fun with luggage, but it's a 10-min walk from the action and we found the views to be worth it. If you have more luggage than you can handle dragging uphill, I would not recommend this place if you don't have a car.

We popped into both the Hotel Florence and Hotel Du Lac in Bellagio for espressos. While I can't comment on a hotel stay there as we didn't experience one, the general impression we got is in line with what Patrick said earlier. If we went back again, I would definitely prefer to stay at the Hotel Florence.

One thought regarding the &quot;crowds&quot; in Bellagio. If you're like most of us, your daytimes are likely to spent out visiting other towns and villas on the lake. That's when Bellagio is at its busiest. At night it is much quieter. Sometimes I think that those who stay elsewhere on the lake, only visit Bellagio during the busy daytime with all the other &quot;daytrippers&quot; so when they report back how crowded Bellagio is, that's because they weren't staying there, but joining the other tourists at its busiest times.

&lt;&lt;Sometimes I think that those who stay elsewhere on the lake, only visit Bellagio during the busy daytime with all the other &quot;daytrippers&quot; so when they report back how crowded Bellagio is, that's because they weren't staying there, but joining the other tourists at its busiest times.&gt;&gt;

This would mirror my own experience.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I will definitely have a look at Hotel Florence in Bellagio. As I have never been to Lake Como I have absolutely no expectations and so I don't have to stay in Varenna. My travel agent recommended Hotel Victoria in Varenna, but I don't have to take her advice, I always prefer to do my own research. I learn more from these sites than I do talking to travel agents.

Not sure of your dates,but my daughter and son-in-law have had a hard time getting any rooms for their Sept. trip there. Better start making your contacts.
IMHO staying in Bellagio is the best option. There's sometimes entertainment at night at one of the restaurants on the water and it seems to have the best ferry schedule.

Suki_7, I can't say which town is &quot;better.&quot; They're just different, and everyone has their preference based on different criteria.

Bellagio, though I love it dearly, is clearly more &quot;touristy&quot; than Varenna. But that's its reason for being. It has been a tourist destination for well more than 100 years and will be so for many, many more. I love the stairway &quot;streets&quot; and even the shopping (which is not a favored pasttime when I travel). The people I know there are very friendly and welcoming. They know why people visit and how dependent they are on us tourists. The Hotel Florence is family-run and feels like it. They are invested in your having a good time and perhaps returning or recommending the hotel to friends. The hotel is a short, level walk to the ferry dock along the main road which follows the shoreline.

Even though Bellagio is larger than Varenna, it still retains a small-town feel. One of my favorite memories of Bellagio is from a couple of years ago when we noticed one morning that all the shops were closed. It turned out that the daughter of one shop-keeper was marrying the son of another shop-keeper and most of the residents were at the wedding in the church. I loved how attending this wedding was more important than opening the shops on time. All were back to business by noon.

Varenna began as a fishing village and has retained its other-purpose feeling even as fishing as declined in importance to the local economy. It has even more of a small-town atmosphere (to me), and it seems the townspeople support each other well through restaurant recommendations and the like. The town has a very good tourist info office which can provide you with a good map with lots of helpful info and advice about attractions and activities in the Varenna area. The Hotel du Lac feels more &quot;company owned&quot; which is not a negative, just an impression. The hotel is smaller and &quot;clings&quot; to the hillside the way I picture Italian hotels along water. The du Lac is a bit farther from the ferry dock than the Florence in Bellagio is to that dock. There is a road from the dock area or an enchanting pedestrian walkway immediately adjacent to (and sometimes over) the water. If your mother has difficulty walking moderate distances or on uneven surfaces, this walkway would be difficult.

If you decide to stay in Bellagio, do plan some time in Varenna. It's worth a visit.

Another vote for Hotel Villa Cipressi in Varenna. Belaggio is nice, Menaggio is nice, but Varenna ... special. Quiet, removed from the crowds, has a decent restaurant, gorgeous views. Buy some food at the local shops and have a picnic on the grounds.

Lots of good advice already but as accommodation may be at a premium I would also like to give a recommendation for the Hotel Metropole in Bellagio. Possibly not quite up to the standards of the Florence or Belvedere but if you can get one of the first floor rooms with it's own private terrace right on the lakeshore (we were in Room 110) you won't regret it.

On the matter of which town to choose I am one of those who favours Bellagio but I hope that Intrepid1 will forgive me for stealing this quote from one of his previous postings on this dilemma which I think sums up the situation pefectly;

&quot;I realize this can be a hard decision if only because you have never BEEN there. I wish I could offer more but I'll leave it at this...GO there no matter what and after you do be sure to explore all three towns. You will not regret it.&quot;

Jim

I think I will stay in Bellagio. I never knew how busy September could be. I thought August would be peak time because everyone goes to the beach for summer. I guess the fact that it is a bit cooler in September and all the factories reopen would be a good reason to choose that month.

Just in case anyone was interested, I booked Hotel Florence in Bellagio. Thanks everyone for your helpful tips. Much appreciated.

Enjoy your trip! I stayed at the Florence in Bellagio last May and was delighted--at the end of September my husband and I will be going back for 4 nights (along with our cocker spaniel). If possible, try to fit in a meal at the Florence's outdoor restaurant on a small terrace directly overlooking the lake. Their food is excellent--my meal there was better than at the much-praised Bilacus.
You probably learned this when you made your reservation, but the hotel offers an 8% discount for paying in cash.

Hi BT. I will definitely make sure I have a meal at their restaurant. The hotel did mention the 8% discount. Are you taking your dog from the US? I wish I could take my king charles cavi, but I think it would be an impossibility from Australia.

No, we're just driving over from the UK (auto train under the Channel) then from there up to Brussels for a few nights, then down to Austrian Alps for a week at the Royal Trofana (www.trofana.at), then to Bellagio, then back up through the countryside outside Salzburg, then through Germany and Brussels and finally back to the UK--roughly a month total.
Where else will you be visiting on this trip?

We're gald that you got the preferred hotel (bookings on Lake Como get quite tight for the peak months). Hope that you enjoy your trip and particularly Lake Como. (Hint: Take a few extra rolls of film. Unbelievable)

I am finding these posts very helpful as my husband and 12 year old stepson will be spending 2 days in Lake Como next June. It will be the last two days of a larger trip to Salzburg, Venice, and Cinque Terre. I have looked at Hotel Belevedere and Grand Hotel Mennagio since they both have pools. That is important with a 12 year old. I have a few questions:

Does anyone know if there are pulbic beaches in Bellagio or Menaggio? Or do any of the hotels in either of these towns have a private beach? NO matter where we stay, I imagine we will tour the main three towns on the Lake but also want somewhere to just hang out and keep the kid entertained.

Thanks

BTilke, we are also going to Milan and Paris for jewellery trade fairs, Florence, Lucca, Rome and Positano (and maybe Sicily). I haven't been to Italy for 7 years and can't wait to get back there. I have to organise so much accommodation though.

Can you recommend a nice, moderately priced jewelry shop in central Milan? I don't know if the budget would stretch that far, but if it does, I would like to get a new gold necklace (I just gave away my old one to cheer up a niece who was going through a bad patch of being bullied at school). No top of the line designer shops.

BTilke, I actually haven't been to Milan for many years so I'm not familiar with the shops there. I will ask my friend who lives in Milan. She has a good jeweller there that made here wedding band. It's really nice, I was going to go and visit this jeweller myself. Unfortunately our business doesn't deal with gold, we use mainly swarovski crystal and semi precious stones.