Kristina's Big Fat Fortieth in France 2008 -A week in Paris and the Dordogne Trip Report
Oct 16th, 2008, 01:08 PM
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<b>Hotel Grandes Ecoles:</b>
Our room is very small and on the back of the hotel. There's no TV and no refrigerator. The bathroom is tiny and the grout could use a good cleaning. Wall to wall floral wallpaper and drapes. Beds are not new, at least not this decade.
But it's cute and in a good location. In the summer it would be lovely to sit in the garden, though there's no AC in the rooms. We almost never see the same person at the front desk. Most of them are helpful and nice, but not all. There is internet for a fee and it only works sporadically and has a very weak signal in the room. This later becomes a great source of frustration.
We decide to go out, because if we do not, I will lay down and may never get up.
So, what's the first thing we do in Paris, a city my mother has never been to before?
Do we go to Notre Dame? No.
Do we walk down the Champs Elysees or see the Arc de Triomphe? No.
The Louvre? <i>Non!</i>
We go to a <i>market</i>, the Saxe-Breteuil market to be exact.
The Saxe-Breteuil market is in the 7th, on Saturdays and Thursdays from 7:30-2:30. From the market, one can see a bit of the Eiffel Tower, so I guess it was a little bit of a "touristy" thing to do.
The market is lovely, filled with all sorts of food vendors (meats, cheeses, produce, fish, wine) and a few vendors selling clothing and jewelry. I'm so tired I walk through it like a bit of a zombie, but not so tired I can't buy a cool 5 euro scarf.
From there, we want to find a place for coffee or lunch, but it's getting late. We walk around the Ecole Militaire and the Invalides toward the river. We just want something light and most of the restaurants seem to be pretty expensive in this area. Unfortunately, all my research has not paid off this time and my notes fail me; I have nothing suitable for lunch for this area in them. We walk down the Rue Saint Dominique and check out all the cute little shops and restaurants.
Finally, we end up at a cafe on the corner of Rue Saint Dominique and Blvd de la Tour Maubourg called Le Centenaire. All the side walk tables are filled. This itself is not unusual, but what is odd, is that the tables are filled with people who have <i>giant</i> dogs with them. The dogs are all the same breed and all about the size of a St. Bernard. There had to be at least a dozen of them, some sort of club I assume. I wish I'd taken a photo, because it was almost surreal (or at least it was to me in my fogged-out jet lagged state).
I order a salad with smoked fish and Mom has an open faced sandwich with ham, cheese and and egg, all grilled and melted. Both are good, but my salad is so big I cannot finish it. So much for those "small" European portions. Lunch, including a glass of wine and a bottle of Pellegrino is 26 euro.
From there we walk up to the river and then down along the Seine for a while until we come to the metro stop at the Musee D'Orsay where I finally figure out I have to go back to the hotel to take a rest. The ceiling at this metro stop is covered in a beautiful mosaic.
Our room is very small and on the back of the hotel. There's no TV and no refrigerator. The bathroom is tiny and the grout could use a good cleaning. Wall to wall floral wallpaper and drapes. Beds are not new, at least not this decade.
But it's cute and in a good location. In the summer it would be lovely to sit in the garden, though there's no AC in the rooms. We almost never see the same person at the front desk. Most of them are helpful and nice, but not all. There is internet for a fee and it only works sporadically and has a very weak signal in the room. This later becomes a great source of frustration.
We decide to go out, because if we do not, I will lay down and may never get up.
So, what's the first thing we do in Paris, a city my mother has never been to before?
Do we go to Notre Dame? No.
Do we walk down the Champs Elysees or see the Arc de Triomphe? No.
The Louvre? <i>Non!</i>
We go to a <i>market</i>, the Saxe-Breteuil market to be exact.
The Saxe-Breteuil market is in the 7th, on Saturdays and Thursdays from 7:30-2:30. From the market, one can see a bit of the Eiffel Tower, so I guess it was a little bit of a "touristy" thing to do.
The market is lovely, filled with all sorts of food vendors (meats, cheeses, produce, fish, wine) and a few vendors selling clothing and jewelry. I'm so tired I walk through it like a bit of a zombie, but not so tired I can't buy a cool 5 euro scarf.
From there, we want to find a place for coffee or lunch, but it's getting late. We walk around the Ecole Militaire and the Invalides toward the river. We just want something light and most of the restaurants seem to be pretty expensive in this area. Unfortunately, all my research has not paid off this time and my notes fail me; I have nothing suitable for lunch for this area in them. We walk down the Rue Saint Dominique and check out all the cute little shops and restaurants.
Finally, we end up at a cafe on the corner of Rue Saint Dominique and Blvd de la Tour Maubourg called Le Centenaire. All the side walk tables are filled. This itself is not unusual, but what is odd, is that the tables are filled with people who have <i>giant</i> dogs with them. The dogs are all the same breed and all about the size of a St. Bernard. There had to be at least a dozen of them, some sort of club I assume. I wish I'd taken a photo, because it was almost surreal (or at least it was to me in my fogged-out jet lagged state).
I order a salad with smoked fish and Mom has an open faced sandwich with ham, cheese and and egg, all grilled and melted. Both are good, but my salad is so big I cannot finish it. So much for those "small" European portions. Lunch, including a glass of wine and a bottle of Pellegrino is 26 euro.
From there we walk up to the river and then down along the Seine for a while until we come to the metro stop at the Musee D'Orsay where I finally figure out I have to go back to the hotel to take a rest. The ceiling at this metro stop is covered in a beautiful mosaic.
Oct 16th, 2008, 01:21 PM
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Hi Kristina - Loving your trip report! I feel like I'm walking in Paris with you. What a great way to celebrate your special birthday. I guess mine will be coming up in several years, so I'll remember to treat myself for a business class upgrade. 
Oct 16th, 2008, 01:55 PM
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Kristina - I'm loving your report. I too wish you had taken a photo of the dogs, And, I am so impressed with your attention to detail and organizational skills. I clicked the link to your Paris trip & read through your "tidbits". Just amazing! And, how kind of you to share all the information from all of your trips. I thank you and I look forward to the continuation of your report!
Oct 16th, 2008, 02:55 PM
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Kristina, you should know that I had many things to do this afternoon, but nothing got done because of your website!
Rome is my favorite city, so I really enjoyed your pictures and trip report from your March trip. Looking forward to more of your Paris trip.
My best friend and I both turn 40 next year, and are in talks right now about where we should go to celebrate.
Johanna
Rome is my favorite city, so I really enjoyed your pictures and trip report from your March trip. Looking forward to more of your Paris trip.
My best friend and I both turn 40 next year, and are in talks right now about where we should go to celebrate.
Johanna
Oct 16th, 2008, 03:24 PM
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Gracie- either Paris or Rome would be fab for your 40th. I feel blessed that I got to do both this year.
yk-thanks. I've always enjoyed your reports too.
DeeDee-I know, I'm still kicking myself for not getting any pix of the dogs. I don't think my Mom did either, but I haven't gone through her photos yet.
Now, on to the rest of Day 1...
yk-thanks. I've always enjoyed your reports too.
DeeDee-I know, I'm still kicking myself for not getting any pix of the dogs. I don't think my Mom did either, but I haven't gone through her photos yet.
Now, on to the rest of Day 1...
Oct 16th, 2008, 03:30 PM
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<b>Notre Dame:</b>
After a rest, we walk over to Notre Dame. The plaza in front is filled with people and there is a huge line to get inside. Suddenly, I smell incense and from right side of the church comes a procession of white robed priests. There must be at least 300 of them.
We have no idea what's going on, but we get in line with everyone else to go inside the Cathedral.
This is where the Catholic Church excels; pomp, pageantry, incense, magic which is all broadcasted on TVs inside the church to the faithful and the tourists alike.
It is so crowded inside that we cannot see anything except on the monitors so we decide to go and come back another time.
Once outside, I look back and notice the two center doors are wide open, giving a view all the way to the back of the Cathedral, something I'm not sure I've ever seen before.
<b>Le Volcan:</b>
For dinner, we go to a place recommended by the hotel called Le Volcan, only about 2 blocks away. Earlier in the morning, I'd heard someone checking out say, "we loved that restaurant you recommended so much we went there twice!".
Le Volcan (10, rue Thouin, 75005 Paris, 01 46 33 38 33, www.restaurant-levolcan.fr) has an 18 euro, 3 course menu which turns out to be one of the best values of the trip.
Mom has Foie gras (+4 euro), salmon, and cappuccino ice cream and I have escargot (yum, garlic and butter!), a "gratin de aubergine" which is a ground beef and eggplant casserole (sounds odd, but it was really good) and a chocolate "charlotte" for dessert. The other diners are mostly French with a smattering of English speaking tourists.
There is a table of six (French, locals I assume) which comes in shortly after we arrive. They are all attractive and <i>tres chic</i>, but one of the men with them is so good looking in that effortless<i>-5 o'clock shadow-too sexy-French</i> way that it's almost painful. It's hard not to stare and my Mom and I just laugh and wonder if it's legal to be that gorgeous.
Dinner for 2 was 57 euro including a glass of champagne (8 euro) and a 1/2 bottle of Sainte Madeline Cotes du Rhone (12 euro).
For photos of day 1, go to:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008day1.html
After a rest, we walk over to Notre Dame. The plaza in front is filled with people and there is a huge line to get inside. Suddenly, I smell incense and from right side of the church comes a procession of white robed priests. There must be at least 300 of them.
We have no idea what's going on, but we get in line with everyone else to go inside the Cathedral.
This is where the Catholic Church excels; pomp, pageantry, incense, magic which is all broadcasted on TVs inside the church to the faithful and the tourists alike.
It is so crowded inside that we cannot see anything except on the monitors so we decide to go and come back another time.
Once outside, I look back and notice the two center doors are wide open, giving a view all the way to the back of the Cathedral, something I'm not sure I've ever seen before.
<b>Le Volcan:</b>
For dinner, we go to a place recommended by the hotel called Le Volcan, only about 2 blocks away. Earlier in the morning, I'd heard someone checking out say, "we loved that restaurant you recommended so much we went there twice!".
Le Volcan (10, rue Thouin, 75005 Paris, 01 46 33 38 33, www.restaurant-levolcan.fr) has an 18 euro, 3 course menu which turns out to be one of the best values of the trip.
Mom has Foie gras (+4 euro), salmon, and cappuccino ice cream and I have escargot (yum, garlic and butter!), a "gratin de aubergine" which is a ground beef and eggplant casserole (sounds odd, but it was really good) and a chocolate "charlotte" for dessert. The other diners are mostly French with a smattering of English speaking tourists.
There is a table of six (French, locals I assume) which comes in shortly after we arrive. They are all attractive and <i>tres chic</i>, but one of the men with them is so good looking in that effortless<i>-5 o'clock shadow-too sexy-French</i> way that it's almost painful. It's hard not to stare and my Mom and I just laugh and wonder if it's legal to be that gorgeous.
Dinner for 2 was 57 euro including a glass of champagne (8 euro) and a 1/2 bottle of Sainte Madeline Cotes du Rhone (12 euro).
For photos of day 1, go to:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/PARIS2008day1.html
Oct 16th, 2008, 04:27 PM
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Enjoying your report, and the website too.
re: <<...they got to the counting and the translation for the number 90 is literally four-twenty-ten. Seriously? They could not come up with an individual word to represent ninety?>>
There is one-- "nonante" -- but mostly used by the Belgians and Swiss.
re: <<...they got to the counting and the translation for the number 90 is literally four-twenty-ten. Seriously? They could not come up with an individual word to represent ninety?>>
There is one-- "nonante" -- but mostly used by the Belgians and Swiss.
Oct 16th, 2008, 04:57 PM
#33
Oops, yes, Cigalechanta is correct of course. I have been a selfish Fodorite (is that redundant?) and neglected to wish you a big fat belated happy birthday, Kristina!
Happy birthday! Your mom looks beautiful, by the way. Also, please tell her I am not yet 40 and am available for adoption.
Happy birthday! Your mom looks beautiful, by the way. Also, please tell her I am not yet 40 and am available for adoption.
Oct 16th, 2008, 05:31 PM
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Yes, a Happy Birthday, and wjat a great way to celebrate it.
I want to know how you take such wonderful photos and how they come out so large! and What kind of camera were you using. Great pictures.
I want to know how you take such wonderful photos and how they come out so large! and What kind of camera were you using. Great pictures.
Oct 16th, 2008, 07:06 PM
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MMeFifi-Yes, my husband told me about "nonante" (he learned to speak French while living in Switzerland). He said it's not used much in France.
Thanks for all the bithday wishes!
Mahya2- I use a Nikon D40x camera. It's a DSLR and I have two lenses for it, one regular and one telephoto. But I have to say, I reduce the quality of the photos substantially for the web site (so they will load faster). The originals are much better.
Thanks for all the bithday wishes!
Mahya2- I use a Nikon D40x camera. It's a DSLR and I have two lenses for it, one regular and one telephoto. But I have to say, I reduce the quality of the photos substantially for the web site (so they will load faster). The originals are much better.
Oct 16th, 2008, 07:52 PM
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Great report Kristina. I am so glad you mentioned the problem with Google maps because after your Rome report, I made one (for Rome) and drove both DH and myself insane trying to figure out how to print it. Glad we aren't quite as dense as we thought.
Oct 16th, 2008, 08:27 PM
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MmleFifi-Even if you could get them to print, there's no way to know which knife and fork icon for example stands for which restaurant. You would still have to manually number them once printed.
Tuscan- I don't know, it's imperfect for sure. I just don't think they were meant to be printed and used in that way (which is a shame). I wish there was a better way. Might work on an iphone for example...
Tuscan- I don't know, it's imperfect for sure. I just don't think they were meant to be printed and used in that way (which is a shame). I wish there was a better way. Might work on an iphone for example...
Oct 17th, 2008, 02:18 AM
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Kristina:
Great trip report, and lovely photos. And great news re your success with packing carry-on only.
Happy belated birthday---I was traveling (again) this last week and am only now catching up with Fodors.
Looking forward to more lovely days.
Therese
Great trip report, and lovely photos. And great news re your success with packing carry-on only.
Happy belated birthday---I was traveling (again) this last week and am only now catching up with Fodors.
Looking forward to more lovely days.
Therese
