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Old Dec 4th, 2015, 03:33 AM
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Krems

We are headed to Vienna for Christmas markets next week. Intending to do a day trip to Salzburg and a second either to Znojmo or Krems. We loved Znojmo when we were there a few years ago but transport there is more difficult than Krems. Almost all the posts about Krems are geared to taking the boat from Melk or Durnstein, etc and focus on transport situations. Our intent would be to simply take train round trip to Krems and spend time in the town and seeing their Christmas markets. Any advice on whether Krems by itself would reward a day during the holiday season? Thanks.
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Old Dec 4th, 2015, 06:16 AM
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Julie, I haven't seen any mention of Advent/Christmas markets in Krems. In the absence of the tourists from the river cruises, the village is extremely quiet, and you may find yourself out of things to see and do a little early if the museums are not of interest. The Bratislava markets are open; they are small, but perhaps combined with other sightseeing you could make a reasonable day of the outing?

One market we are anticipating this year is happening from 11-13 December at the renaissance Schloss Schallaburg. According to the Lower Austria newsletter I received, it is listed as one of the prettiest. (So far, the newsletter recommendations for Advent and Christmas markets that we have explored is 3-3!) The setting, and the palace, are quite lovely absent the market, as well.
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Old Dec 4th, 2015, 11:40 AM
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I would not call Krems a village but a small city of about 25,000 and a regional town. Krems is a nice but not exceptional town IME of looking around - really nice like most Austrian towns.

I day tripped to Bratislava from Vienna - takes just an hour and is a whole new culture and country - Slovakia and a neatly restored old town lying under some old fort on a big hill.
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Old Dec 4th, 2015, 02:03 PM
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Krems could make a nice twinning of towns with St Poltein - just across the Danube and connected to Krems by trains - take a train from Vienna to St Poltein - a thriving regional town with probably a nice Christmas Market (as all towns seem to have) then swing across the Danube by train - bop around Krems and then return to Vienna from there by train (to the secondary Franz-Josef Bahnhof in central Vienna).

Or Melk is nice in any weather because of its Uber famous abbey - take a train first to Melk then back to St Poltein and or Krems for a nice day of a few hours strolling around three rather delightful towns, neither of which would occupy the average tourist for much more IME.
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Old Dec 4th, 2015, 10:22 PM
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PalenQ, have you ever "bopped around" Krems in the winter? We were having lunch with friends on a Saturday afternoon a couple of weeks ago and the town was all but shuttered. There may be 25.000 residents in the village, but they seem to have all gone into hibernation, awaiting spring and the return of the cruise boats.

In Bratislava, could the "some old fort" be either Bratislava Castle, which underwent reconstruction in 2008, or the Devin Castle ruins, which lie in Devin, a borough of Bratislava?
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Old Dec 5th, 2015, 06:30 AM
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the castle hovering right over the town center:

https://www.google.com/search?q=brat...w=1745&bih=868

No have not been in Krems in winter and thought it was a real regional town not some summer resort.
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Old Dec 7th, 2015, 08:19 AM
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Thanks for all the helpful replies. Based on this I'm now thinking to skip Krems entirely and go to St. Polten (a much shorter train ride and what looks to be quite a town) and maybe on another day go to Znojmo if we run out of things in Vienna since we were there a month ago. Was also n Bratislava a month ago and found it delightful but not interested in going there again so soon. Schloss Schallaburg looks great but I can't seem to find enough info about the christmas markets there and about transport to be sure I would get to the right place (actually found one website that suggested it would be closed after Nov. 8 which is a bit worrying) So I'm probably off to St. Polten with a promise to myself to get to Schallaburg another (summer)time. Thanks for opening my eyes to St. Polten and for all the other good info. Always get answers on Fodors.
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Old Dec 7th, 2015, 11:35 AM
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Have you considered Mariazell and its famous church in tandem with St Poltein - a mountain train goes up there from St-Poltein over a bucolic route.

I stayed in St Poltein for some days as a base and thought it a neat regional town but not sure there is enough there there for a whole day - I took the train to Mariazell and loved it - the train ride and the small town and famous church.
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Old Dec 7th, 2015, 09:19 PM
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Julie, here is the link to Schloss Schallaburg if you decide to visit as an add-on with St. Polten; the market is indeed 11-13 December, and it looks like ÖBB is offering a special Advent ticket. As PalenQ writes, you may not find ways to fill an entire day in the town. http://www.schallaburg.at/de/besuche...ristkindlmarkt
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Old Dec 8th, 2015, 12:58 PM
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44travel always gives such sage advice - he/she lives in Vienna and is such an asset to Fodors.

44travel - what do you think about Mariazell and the train, if you have been there that is? Maybe in dark winter not so fun but would like your take in general if inclined.

Cheers!
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Old Dec 8th, 2015, 10:15 PM
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PalenQ, thank you for the kind words. DH and I have been to Mariazell, but in autumn. Our daughter's school has a cross-country training camp overnight there, and we went out early to enjoy the Basilica and surrounds before collecting her. We did not take the train. We have not been, but my Steirermark (Styria) newsletter indicates there is a medium size Advent market (40 stalls) running through 20 December.
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Old Dec 9th, 2015, 05:33 AM
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Julie,

Can't give better advice than what you received.

Just wanted to wish you happy travels and please share your photo trip report, I love them and love Austria!
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Old Dec 12th, 2015, 05:43 AM
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Julie, in case you're still contemplating a day trip outside of Vienna (through tomorrow, anyway), the Christmas market at Schloss Schallaburg was magnificent! DH and I arrived via personal vehicle about 5 minutes after the market opened, and had to walk 1 kilometer to reach the grounds--crazy crowded, but with plenty of space for everyone.

The handcrafts and other wares were high quality; there was very little kitsch. There is a restaurant as the castle, but it offered the usual chicy-mhicy plates; outside in the courtyard was the real food: fresh roast pork sandwiches with horseradish, Käsespaetzle, Raclette brot; a surprising amount of smoked fish; and of course plenty of Glühwein choices.

Hope you're enjoying Austria!
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