Kinsale to Kenmare and Onward
 

Thanks in advance to you Ireland gurus. I have my plan in mind for October, but I am thinking I might like to have some things firmed up in advance. So my first question is: we will be in Kinsale for our first two nights and will head to Kenmare for probably 3 nights. (There seems to be so much to do in that area, I thought three nights would be good.) We will drive along the coast through Clonakilty and Skibbereen. Would there be any particular place worth stopping for the night, or should I just plan on being in Kenmare for our third night? I think we would be there by late afternoon if we decide to go ahead and not stop along the way.

From Kenmare we will head on up to Dingle for two nights. We were there in 95 but didn't do it justice. I am trying to slow this trip down a bit and spend more time in each location.

Our last night is booked in Bunratty, but we will still have one free night, and we are thinking of going up to Galway for that night, since we love Galway. (This isn't a question, it's a decision we will have to make eventually, since I think we will need to book a place in advance for a Friday night, and I have a couple of good suggestions from Fodorites.)

Don't tell my husband I am asking! He wanted to wing it, but I have places in mind where I would like to stay in Kenmare and Dingle, and I guess deep in my heart I want to book ahead!

I wouldn't go all the way up to Galway for just one night. That is an awfully long drive from Dingle. Have you ever done the southwest coast of Clare? Loop Head is really spectacular. If the weather is wonderful you could even stop off in Ballybunnion for the cliff walk on your way to Clare. That is lovely also. You could spend the night in Kilkee or Kilrush.

if you found an extra day I would spend a night in Crookhaven and then drive Beara peninsula to Kenmare --

Crookhaven to Glengarriff to Adrigole.
Over Healy pass and down R571 to Ardgroom to Eyeries and then over to Castletown bere (lunch/pint) then on to
Glengarriff and up to Kenmare

Whatever have fun
Lizard

Thanks for the replies. What I ended up deciding was to add a night in the middle so we will be 3 nights in Kenmare and then make the move for one night to Killarney. To some that might sound strange (dare I even say dumb?!), but on this trip we are concentrating on a much smaller area. Since there is so much to see around Kerry, (and I have heard so many people who either love or can't stand Killarney!), I thought the area was worth another night. I'm sure we won't have any trouble filling the day, plus I can decide for myself how I feel about the town. I guess I'll have to save Loop Head for the next trip, since that will be a stretch of coast we won't see this trip. (We headed up the coast to Donegal last year.) I do hope to be able to drive Beara but will do it from Kenmare instead of along the way!

(Notice how I keep saying "I" all the time? Hubby loves to go but is definitely a nonplanner. His input so far has been choosing a B&B from 3 I narrowed the choices down to!)

I'm sorry Killarney is getting so much bad press. Maybe during July and August it is full or tourists & busses, but we stayed 2 days there in May. Loved the city, and lots to do within a reasonable distance. Muckross, Gap of Dunloe, Ross Castle, etc.

We enjoyed the restaurants, walking the streets, lots of shops, pubs, etc. Don't take it off your list. ((b))

I agree with Bud about Killarney's bad press. I probably wouldn't stay there in the middle of the summer, but think it's a great choice for an October trip.

mentioned this to someone else yesterday .... Castletownsend near Skibbereen is worthy of an overnight stop. Mary Ann's Pub and Restaurant serves some of the best seafood in the area. Glandore is also a very pretty village and with wonderful harbour views from up the road past the Marine Hotel it makes a nice stop for a cuppa or a pint.

I am so psyched, there will be so much to do on this trip! Leisa, I hope to get to MaryAnn's, since Wojazz has been singing her praises for ages. (Budman, you were there too, yes?) I will get my husband to try the banofee, I am not big on bananas!

Budman and MaryZ, thanks for the support on Killarney! I am also going for broke: will do ROK and report back on my impressions! (We don't have to make a decision between here and somewhere like Dingle, since we have the time to do both.)

Thank you! (Next year: Antrim coast? Who's been there?)

Castletownsend is a very small village. Basically one street that leads you down to the sea. When we walked into the pub, it was virtually empty as everyone was in the back courtyard outside having lunch.

Didn't see banofee on the menu, but I didn't ask either.

The bartender at Mary Ann's was the one who told me about Jim Edwards in Kinsale. Great dinner there. ((b))

i was going to say earlier that C'end does look like just a 'one street' village, but don't limit yr time to the village itself. as you leave the village, more or less at the top of the hill take a left and follow this little road for about 3klm's ... leads to the beaches and some gorgeous inlets .... one in particular with an old church, in ruins, and the graveyard with a beautiful view over the water .... good place for a brisk skinny dip !

have a great trip.

Hi allison:

I think I would saty in Crookhaven also. See if the Galley Cove B&B has a room available. (http://www.galleycovehouse.com/) Take a ride up to Brow Head and enjoy the view from there. Also, take the backroad to Goleen that goes over the hill. The view of Crookhaven at the top is fantastic.

If you want to enjoy a slice or two of banoffee at Maty Ann's let them know that you will be there and they will have a pie for you. Ya gotta love 'em.

I've never stayed in Killarney though I've always thought it would be fine during the off season especially with some research on where to go.

Antrim Coast: I've been there and will be there in May. It is wonderful. I always suggest the Torr Rd. Beautiful drive on a well paved but narrow road. We'll talk more about that.

Bill

I stayed at Galley Cove B&B and it was okay. My room was upstairs and was very small. I could hardly fit into the shower. The downstairs rooms in the new area are larger but were reserved. The older rooms are rather shabby. Next time I will stay at Fortview House. I stopped by for a look-see and it seemed much nicer and more upscale than Galley Cove.

Killarney was bad-mouthed by Rick Steves in his Ireland book. He also hates Bunratty Castle & Folk Park. Personally, I see nothing wrong with Killarney. It is crowded in the summer and heaven forbid you go on a August bank holiday weekend. Other than that it is a fine town. Shops, restaurants, pubs, launderettes, cinema, lots of accommodations. I wouldn't call it picturesque like Kinsale or Kenmare but what more could you want? It is particularly well located for seeing much of the southwest. It is surrounded by spectacular natural beauty. October should be very nice there especially for the National Park.

The Antrim coast is spectacular. The Giant's Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, harbors, beaches, castles, cliffs, scenic drives, hiking. Last time I was there the weather was fabulous but I needed more time. Next trip I plan on renting a self-catering lighthouse set on some cliffs overlooking the ocean and spend more time soaking in the sights.

going in the opposite direction, we left kenmare at 8:00a, made it to Mizen Head which is the gem find from this web site- We then made it to kinsale by 6:00 seeing the drombeg stone circle and Michael Collins birth place. Mizen Head is worth the detour- the other two are not. Most of the great pictures in my office are of our walk to the Mizen Head lighthouse- you have to see it to believe it.

Hey Allison! Just returned last night from our trip and we did your itinerary in reverse with 2 nights in Kinsale, 3 nights in Kenmare, 1 night in Dingle, 1 in Castlegregory and 1 in Doolin.

Out of Kenmare, we drove the Beara Peninsula one day, Mizen the next and one day in Killarney National Park. All were wonderful, however, try to find a couple of extra hours for St. Finbarr's Oratory. It is located in Gougane Barra. The church and the grounds are located on a lake and that is beautiful, however, the Gougane Barra Forest/Park is absolutely breathtaking. Great place for a picnic, just sit and listen to the moss grow. We were directed here by our B&B owner, Mary Patricia O'Sullivan and she was dead on!

Out of Kinsale, we took a guided tour of The Lisnagun Ring Fort which was very interesting. This is the only ring fort in Ireland on its' original site. We learned so much from this very simple place. It is also in jeopardy because the Minister of the Interior (?) who is a "gangster" evidently, has approved a housing development on the property surrounding the fort. Currently, you can see a few remnants of other ring forts and that puts it in perspective, however, that may soon disappear.

Diane

Too funny Diane! Are you posting a trip report anywhere? We have been to Mizen Head (I was terrified on the bridge so wouldn't let go but still managed to get some good pictures!) so we may be able to pass it up this trip. I have heard some other recommendations for Gougane Barra so will try to get there. Even though this will be a long time in one area for us, it seems like we will never have time to see enough. (My husband always used to say he was retiring there, but things have gotten so expensive...) So, we just keep going back!

Any comments on your b&bs or trip highlights? Two weeks and two days.....

BTW, we have been to both Kinsale and Dingle. We are starting in Kinsale to save the best for last! (Many people who have never been to Ireland are "amused" by our frequent return trips..)

We spent a night in Skibbereen between Kenmare (2) and Kinsale (2). PK Lodge is a lovely purpose built B&B on the outskirts of town, down a dirt road. Skibbereen was very enjoyable.

I just finished my trip report here. I highly recommend the Seashore Farm Guesthouse in Kenmare. It is about 65 euros pp, a little more than we paid anywhere else, but even my DH, (the king of "why pay more for a bed") said we should try to find more places like that.

Don't stay at Cill Bhreach in Dingle, regardless of the raving recs here. It is loud, there is only one pillow per person and it is as thin as notebook paper. Granted, it is clean! Maybe we just caught them on a bad day- the wind was howling creating quite a ruckus but the cattle guard out front, along with the traffic, was very loud, too.