Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Kinsale/Dingle or Donegal

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Kinsale/Dingle or Donegal

Thanks again for all your help! I'm considering taking a tour to Ireland next year (of course, I might drive myself, I might hire a car and driver..I'd love to go without doing a tour, but driving myself is making me very nervous). In any case..... The Tauck tour I poste earlier about sounds marvelous, and I spoke to a repesentative yesterday, who assured me that we would be able to spend 2 hours in Kenmare, an hour and a half in Sligo, and about the same amount of time in Donegal town...also 2 hours in Kilkenny. In addition, she also mentioned that we will be able to go to town (via hotel shuttle, or walking) to mingle with locals...... However, two other tours (one is CIE Pubs and Folk tour, the other I'm blanking out at the moment) go to Kinsale and Dingle. Kinsale is a must for me, whether it's on the actual tour or I have to work something else out, but I've heard such wonderful things about Dingle. These tours, however, don't go into County Donegal, which I've also been looking forward to. Which itinerary would you prefer (understanding of course, that we all have different tastes)? **Also, is hiring a car and driver unsafe for a female traveling alone? Someone mentioned to me that being alone with some guy out in the "middle of nowhere" is not prudent (and this woman loves Ireland, been there numerous times). Thanks again! Betsy

Betsy, Can't speak for Donegal but if you really want to see it I vote for the first tour... We loved Kenmare. Good shopping and charming too. (My husband drove most of the time and I drove a little.. found it pretty nerve-wracking. Also, can't enjoy the sights when you're driving, too much concentration required.) Have a great trip, take a good rainproof jacket and don't worry too much about other clothes, it's very casual over there.

Betsy, I still think that the Tauck tour sounds great and I am living in ireland. However the CIE tours are also good as they have been runnning them for years but on hotels the Tauck comes out tops. Do remember that 1 to 2 hours in many of the towns will only be enough to have a quick look around. Mingling with the locals I believe can only be done if you travel independently and stay at B&Bs or similar type location. Remember many of the places you are going to are very popular with tourists and regardless of how much time you will have to go into towns etc in these towns you will propbably meet more tourists than locals. Re Dingle/Kinsale and Donegal - well I think that Doengal is the uncovered secret of Ireland in many ways and I personally prefer it than Kerry, the most popular part of Ireland for visitors. However it would be easier for you to hire a driver - from a reputable company - or even take public transport and get local taxis to sites if you were to do Dingle and Kinsale on your own. Book a B&B or Hidden Ireland place or a Farmhouse use public transport and local taxis to get there, base yourself there and use local taxis or walk to where you want to go. You can take organised tours of the Ring of Kerry from local towns. Hope this helps you and remember that ireland can not be done in one visit, many people try it and end up talking about the roads and drivers and seeing little. Cathy

Cathy, you've been great, thanks! What I'm thinking of doing is doing the Tauck tour, then leaving it while it is in Cork and spending the rest of my time on my own. I would hire a car and driver, and if I could, use taxis. I don't know if taxis go out to those Hidden Ireland type homes... Do you know of any reputable companies that hire out car and drivers? I've e-mailed 2 already, Peter Paul Conway and Leonard Carriages... My revised (potential) itinerary is in separate posts. I'd love to know what you think. Re: Donegal. Part of the reason I'd do part of the tour is to go to Donegal. If I could do it on my own, I'd do that. The last planned stop I have is Dingle Peninsula; how long of a drive is it to, say Donegal town? Thanks so much! Betsy

Hi Betsey, I have been to Ireland about 3-4 times. I think it is so easy to navigate on your own. I would be hesitant about a tour because I think most of Ireland's draw for me is in the landscape. You just don’t have the Architectural wonders you expect throughout Europe. I also think you will meet so many more people if you skip the tour. Are you afraid you are going to forget to stay on the right when driving. I don't drive so pardon me if it is the left. I only hear about people forgetting the appropriate lane, when they have had few or are doing an all night drive. Ireland is wonderfully friendly and I think some of it's charm will be lost for you if you are scurried along by some guide. There is an Irish Tourist Board in NYC they provide you with a tremendous amount of info. There use to be a guide to B&B around the country which I always found quite helpful. Call the tourist board this is a comprehensive guide of all B&B that have the endorsement (Approval) of the tourist board. But you don’t even need to plan your stay each and every night. I like deciding during my stay. If you are there during a very busy time like August I would plan ahead just because this is your first trip over. All you need to do is take a few Saturday's read up on the locations you want to tour and mark out your itinerary. I think indepth reading would enrich any trip but it is not too necessary just have some reference material handy. I don't think any guide can take the place of reading. Sometimes I have even found guides to create their own history. Take a tour of an area that you know well and you will see what I mean. Just a thought, you know best if a tour is the right thing for you. Have a wonderful time. I love the Cliffs of Mohr, County Clare, Giants Causeway in the north. Connemara (sp). I could go on. I have been able to make my way very easily, without a car and alone. Have a wonderful time. Wonderful smoked salmon, brown bread, bacon YUM. You mentioned Dingle, there is a classic piece of literature that is required reading in the Irish school system, “Twenty years a growing”. I found this book several years ago and I still read one passage to friends that has always moved me. The story takes place off dingle on the great Blasket islands. The islands are not safe to inhabit any longer but this book marks the author’s experience here growing up. I could not spend 2 hours in dingle having read this book. Dingle is the cute Irish town you no doubt you have in your head I would spend a few days here alone, less is more. These are films that I thought were honest in their portrayal of the Irish; "My Left foot" with Daniel Day Lewis", "The Snapper". Not so honest but scenic and entertaining to watch "The Waking of Ned Devine".

Betsy, Glad to be of help. Re the revised plans - I have posted a response which basicly says stick with the tour until the end and then return to the areas yo would like to go via public transport and use taxis to and from the sites and the Hidden ireland places. There are taxis everywhere in Ireland and the B&B/Hidden Ireland people will have their numbers. let your hosts know before hand what you want to do and ask for their assistance in doing it - they will be delighted to assist. Don't bother hiring a guide - just a driver - they will know a lot about the area in most cases and anyway you can read up about the site before you visit. Just relax and enjoy a few days after the tour departs. Finally do contact the Tourist Board at www.ireland.travel.ie and they will send you loads of stuff free of charge, Hope this helps, Cathy

Virginia, thanks for all your help! Believe me, I am doing all I can to avoid taking a tour. I'm extremely nervous about driving on the other side of the road, even though others have reassured me that it's easy once you get used to it. What's funny is that on my solo trips to Paris, I've always had a set itinerary, and then I ended up lingering in one place, and skipping something else, ...so yes, despite all my planning, I'll probably end up being very spontaneous! By the way, don't forget the potatos! Talk about yum...I may never come home! betsy

Cathy, that helps a lot. I must be driving you crazy! Actually, if the public transportation is that good, and their are taxis all over the place, then I can skip the tour all together! I know I'm all over the place, but ask anyone that knows me. I can't do anything half way. When I get enthused about something, I obsess about it....and I am obsessed about this trip that is months away! betsy

Betsey you are too funny about those potatoes. I think it is great you are thinking about this so far in advance. You can go online for website info as well as books from Amazon. I would get one Irish history book if you can find a really great one. Sometimes you have to skip around until you find a historical reference. But I had the richest experience when I traveled Egypt one time. I read one history, one art history and one social study book. I was able to comprehend so much more of what I was seeing doing this before hand. Also another time I read a book by the last queen of Hawaii, she spoke about going to the volcano at night as the best thing to do on any of the islands. I am not sure I would have thought to do this on my own. So in short sometimes you can find incredible gems of wisdom from reading outside the guidebook genre. I would find the website of a respected gallery in Dublin and see what resources they lead you to. Sometimes you can order books right from the museum this way you don't have to question the reputation of what you might be ordering from let's say Amazon (another good resource)(sometimes customer reviews are not helpful and they don’t always give editorial reviews non-commercial books). Lonely Planet has a recommended reading list also. One book that comes to mind off the top of my head, is brief and not exactly light reading but still interesting, “The life and times of Grace O’Malley”. This is a book about a 16th century female pirate in Ireland. If you have the time this can be fun stuff. Have a great time. You are reminding me that it has been a while since I have been back to Ireland. I have the hardest time writing about travel in a concise fashion. I hope some of this was helpful.

Betsy, Public transport is not that good - in fact your statement brought a smile to my face as the Irish public transport system is one of the worst in Europe. However you will be able to get from one major city or twn to another either in a clapped out train or in a modern bus. Taxis are not all over the place but there are taxi services in most villages and towns (for the weekend runs when a few people decide not to drive and drive unlike). I would not advise trying to see Ireland by public transport. If you are worried about driving and are travelling on your own I would advise that you take a tour 1. you will meet other people regardless of the nationality, tourist or native. 2. you will be able to see places without having to worry about getting lost (a very common problem since the sign posts in the countryside are non-existence because the locals know where they are going so why bother with signs !). So in a nutshell take the tour either the Tauck or the CIE one and allow yourself a few days at the end of the tour to visit one or two places and get taxis and public transport to where you want to go, Hope this helps and glad to be of some assistance, Cathy

Driving is not that hard. Just remember if you are driving you must always have your body on the center line of the road. when you turn etc, etc. Galway and all the west are great . we are doing sligo and donnegal next as we haven't been there.