Santanu

Those of you who are going soon, the weather is great-- you're in for a treat. We used the Airport Shuttle company to travel to and from CDG airport and recommend it. You get the same benefits as a taxi while saving about 40%. The drawback is you may have to go to other people's hotels first before you get dropped off, but it's a great way to meet and chat with fellow travelers. Don't worry about whether the district you are staying is "good" or not. Unless you are in the red light area (I don't know where that is in Paris), it all looks good to me. <BR> <BR>As for Paris itself, what can I say, it's a great city. Here are my surprises and disappointments: <BR> <BR>Surprises: <BR> <BR>1. I found Parisians to be friendly and helpful. There was the occasional rude person, but hey, there are a**holes in every city-- has nothing to do with Paris. <BR> <BR>2. The food is good but expensive compared to the US; after a while I gave up trying to be cost conscious. We spent anywhere from $15 to $40 on lunch and $50 to $75 on dinner. Since we were there for 8 days that was a hefty expense. Several days we spent more on food than shelter. <BR> <BR>3. Really enjoyed the Rodin meuseum. It probably has one of the nicest gardens in Paris. <BR> <BR>Disappointments: we took our 21 month old with us to our disappointments stem from this. If you are not taking kids some of these will not impact you. <BR> <BR>1. The Metro system is very good and easy to navigate but is not handicapped or child friendly-- lots of steps and narrow gates. <BR> <BR>2. The restuarants, cafes, etc. do not have high chairs for kids and obviously do not want you to bring your kids. <BR> <BR>3. There is an ongoing strike for the RER metro trains to Versailles. You may have to take the other train (NCSF or sonething like that) from the Montparnasse station instead like we did. If you do, there are two Versailles stations (Rive Gauche and Chantilly (?))-- RG is closer but the other is only a 10 minute walk. <BR> <BR>If anyone has specific questions, I will try to answer them, although I am by no means an expert.

Bob Brown

Did you try purchasing sandwiches at a boulangerie for lunch?? I have heard that the boulangeries serve good sandwhiches. I will be interested in your comments. You email me at blaze.

Michael Baldwin

I'm a major foodie and when in Paris regularly purchase great sandwiches from <BR>bakers. OK, OK, I'll admit it, sometimes I just buy a couple pastries and have those for lunch! <BR> <BR>This is a great way to economize on food in Paris. <BR> <BR>Of course, if I buy a sandwich for lunch that means I'll blow a big wad on dinner! <BR> <BR>Don't worry, there are many ways to eat well and inexpensively in Paris. A loaf of bread, a hunk of cheese, some fruit, maybe some pate, a bottle of water or wine. $10 can feed two for lunch.

cheryl

Another foodie with more inexpensive suggestions for great food in Paris. All butcher shops sell their own pate's, we tried a different one each day. Also, the quiche that you can buy by the slice at bakeries, we had some wonderful types, salmon, mushroom, whitefish, etc. Several nights we had a vertitable feast on our balcony in the evenings with bread, pate, quiche, cheese, wine and pastry. A gourmet dinner for 2 for well under $20!

j.cabral

I have just returned from Paris also and we had great luck finding good little restaurants and brasseries where we got great dinners for about 12-25. per person each night. WE also ate at little corner places in out neighborhood(6th) weach day and did so for about 8.00 pp.Real cheap eats to do to bakeries or epiceries for goodies too. Good deals at the food market on the rue de Buci daily.I agree on the airport shuttle-the easiest to do and arrange. Metro is definitely not for the elderly or those with strollers.We also loved 2 smaller museums- the Musee Cognac Jay and the Musee Carnavalet in the 4th. Out of the way but definitley worth the time and effort to see.Back to foods- we saved even more buying six packs of boittled water and snack goodies at neighborhood Monoprix- what fun just to shop around one.Finally, eveyone we met or dealt with in a restaurant or store was pleasant even charming at times. I speak enough french to be able to communicate and found more often than not- people trying their english out on me asking questions etc. My 16 yr. old met several french teenagers and their biggest question was ... was she afraid to go to school because of the violence that they hear about in the news. Sad. She also was the reason I am sure we got such incredibly helpful and personal service in some small bistros and cafes!!All in all a most wonderful trip and plans are in the works for a trip tp Porvence in Oct. and a quick trip in Jan. with my daughter again. She thinks she wants to look at going to college in Paris.YES!! <BR>

Vincent

Waow ! $ 15 to $ 40 on a lunch ! I wonder where you went to get such high prices. Since all French people go out for lunch, every single restaurant offers special lunch menus. And frankly, if you pay more than 80 F ($ 13)for a three-course meal, you are getting ripped-off ! As of $ 50 to $ 75 for a dinner, it's certainly not the average price bracket. I hope that at least you had a treat for such a price !

Santanu

I better address the food cost issue before I scare any more travelers going to Paris. First, the prices I listed were for both me and my wife, not per person. Second, we did do a lot of lunches at patisseries, boulongeries, take out places (emporters?)etc., and these represent the $15-20 end of the scale. Every third store in Paris is some sort of food shop it seems, and it all looks good, so we on occasions would just ambulate and buy bread here, and cheese there, and pastries... <BR> <BR>But with our little one, we couldn't be too selective at times on where to eat. So, for example, we had lunch at the Cafe on top of the Orsay meauseum or the restuarant by the lake at Versailles and those are not cheap places to eat, unless you eat very lightly. Nonetheless, I think the price was worth the views and ambience we got there. <BR> <BR>However, the patisseries and all the wonderful places that you can go to for lunch close around 7 PM so are unavailable for dinner. We stayed on the border of the 7th and 15th e, and those restuarants had fixed prices of 120 francs and up. So a glass of wine (30 francs and up) for two, two meals, and a tip-- that's $50 right there, just like in the US. <BR> <BR>I second the Monoprix suggestion, especially for drinks, snacks, etc. And there's always MCDonalds!

Bob Brown

Vincent: why don't you tell us all where YOU eat?? If it is good and not in the $50 range, I want to know about it. <BR>So do us a favor, tell us your preferences and suggestions.

Natasha

<BR> <BR>And since we're chatting about food & budget minded restaurants, I thought I'd share an article from Frommer's. I haven't explored any of these eateries, but perhaps others can comment on these restaurant suggestions. <BR> <BR>EXERPTED from Frommer’s Budget Travel magazine- Spring 1999 <BR> <BR>[pg. 76] the Little Wonder Restaurants of Paris by Pauline Frommer <BR> <BR>Le P’tit Gavroche, 15 rue Ste-Croix-de-la Bretonnaire <BR>Metro Stop: Hotel De Ville <BR>49 francs for 3 courses, wine included <BR>Least expensive highly edible prix fixe dinner in Paris. Place has a scrappy charm, the first floor crowded with well-worn wooden tables, strings of flags hanging from the ceiling, a goldfish bowl on the bar, and a stuffed rooster perched atop a book case. Upstairs eating area is slightly more upscale, w/ tables a bit farther apart, leather banquettes and lace curtains over the windows. Majority f customers seem to be regulars. There are no a la carte choices ; all patrons order from the prix fixe menu, which is revised daily and scrawled on chalk boards above the dining areas. Food is unpretentious and filling, similar to what you would get if you were invited to dinner at the home of a working class French family. <BR> <BR>Le Petit Keller, 13 bis rue Keller <BR>Metro Stop: Ledru-Rollin <BR>75 francs, including beer or wine <BR>With its Van Gogh yellow walls, orange painted pipes, and a changing exhibition of local artists on the walls, this Bastille area joint has become a favorite of young, hip Paris. Patrons, most of whom seem to be under 35, sit in intense, smoky groups, laughing and arguing and drinking cup after cup of espresso, but only after first feasting on Keller’s choice prix fixe, a steal at only 75 francs for appetizer, plat (main course), cheese or dessert, and their choice of a quarter carafe of wine or a beer. Menu changes daily and always features the freshest of ingredients. If available, try the duck with honey and fig sauce and blue cheese salad or the cheese tart, not to mention the fondant au chocolat creme anglaise. Closed Sundays. <BR> <BR>Chez Max, 47 rue Honore <BR>Metro Stop: Chatelet <BR>85 francs for 3 courses, including wine <BR>Max, of Chex Max, is that rare restaurateur who is abe to create (along with his personable staff) a real air of conviviality. He bustles from table to table, joking with the regulars, introducing himself to newcomers, carving meat and pouring wine with elan. He easily makes you forget the graceless decor, with its slightly too bright lighting and ‘70’s era mural of the tropics. Adding to the festive modd is the plate of complimentary hors d’oeuvres that arrives at your table while you peruse the menu. The last time we were there, it was a plate of olives and baby radishes, which you salt and eat on buttered bread. At Chez Max, you have a choice of two prix fixe menus, one for 85 francs, the other at 135 francs, as well as the regular carte. Both menus include a quarter-carafe of red or white wine per person, along with your three courses. You won’t be disappointed by any of the appetizers or entrees, however the Max salad is a masterful meld of Spinach, gouda cheese and apples, and the trout almandine is flaky, flavorful and nicely presented on a bed of mache (a kind of lettuce). Desserts can be spotty, so I’d suggest choosing a cheese course instead. Closed Sunday & Monday nights. <BR> <BR>Chartier, 7 rue du Faubourg Montmarte <BR>Metro Stop: Montmarte <BR>100 francs for 3 course a la carte meal, w/out wine <BR>Oldest and largest of Paris’ budget restaurants and one of the few to remain open 7 days a week (many close on Sunday and/or Monday nights), the spacious, bustling Chartier first lit up its stoves in 1896. It is not only stubbornly and traditionally French in its food items and methods of preparation, but has retained its original belle epoque decor and old world charm. The food is generously portioned, simple but tasty. Prices are so low that even if you order a la carte, you’ll easily come in within your budget (appetizers average 10 to 20 francs, entrees 40 to 60 francs, desserts 10 to 25). With that in mind, always order those orders typed in boldface. These are the daily changing specials and represent what is freshest at market.. And give preference to any dish served with bearnaise sauce, as the chefs here create one of the best I’ve ever tasted. As with many budget restaurants, parties of one or two here are seated at large tables with strangers, a hidden perk of dining cheap, as it gives you that rare chance to meet and talke with the natives of this sophisticated city. <BR> <BR>Chez Germaine, 30 rue Pierre Leroux <BR>Metro Stop: La Tour Maubourg <BR>65 francs for 3 courses, including wine <BR>The polar opposite of Chartier, Chez Germaine is a teeny tiny little restaurant, friendly and intimate (if you were to box the whole place up and clone it, you could easily fit eight Chez Germaines inside of Chartier and still have room for a ping-pong table or two). This is a real neighborhood place, and one that inspires a ferocious loyalty among its patrons. The food is super fresh, subtly spiced and quite delicious. Desserts are homemade daily, and the three-course prix fixe, which also changes, offers a choice of six appetizers, entrees, and desserts for the low price of 65 francs including a quarter carafe of wine of Eau de Source mineral water. I’d suggest getting here a little before peak eating hours (the French tend to dine between 8:45 pm and 10 pm). A line inevitably forms outside at the stroke of 9 pm. <BR> <BR>Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur le Prince <BR>Metro Stop: Odeon <BR>100 francs for 3 course, without wine <BR>The historic haunt of countless students and, in their day, Ernest Hemingway and Andre Gide, this restaurant in the heart of the Latin Quarter is a classic. Though you are eating in one of the institutions of Paris, the food is anything but institutional. Polidor serves many of the archetypal bistro dishes but presents them so well, you feel as if you’re tasting them for the first time. Tops on the menu are the richly creamy lentil soup, the terrine of fish with tangy green mayonnaise, the exquisitely tender boeuf a la provencale (like boeuf bourguignon but with olives) and the bavarois cassis, which is a vibrantly red dessert that tastes like a warm, delicious, bready sorbet. But almost anything you order here is sure to be pleasing, and the prix fixe is an affordable 100 francs for 3 courses. Only downside? The service, which is brusque in the extreme. Should that keep you from visiting? Nah! What’s Paris without a bit of rudeness? <BR> <BR>L’Ami Leon, 11 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau <BR>Metro Stop: Louvre <BR>97 francs for 3 course prix fixe dinner, not including wine <BR>Saving our favorite for last, we come to L’Ami Leon, a restaurant you walk out of wondering, “How did I get such a wonderful dinner for that price?” (prix fixe is 97 francs for 3 courses). Everything here points to a higher tariff: the service is friendly and attentive; the atmosphere very romantic, with dark red walls and red leather banquettes, little shaded lamps on each table, framed prints on the walls, and soothing classical music in the background; and oh, the food! Every item is inventive and lovingly well-prepared, with ingredients that seem to be a cut above the standard budget fare, i.e., they don’t have to stew the meats for them to be tender. A place of great charm and warmth, perfect for your last night in Paris or for celebrating a special event. <BR> <BR>

Vincent

OK for Le petit Gavroche and Chartier, which are classics, and I have experienced personnally. But by all means, DO avoid Polidor, unless you want to meet the whole city of Minneapolis looking for some "typical" Parisian treat ("Oh, and those filthy Turkish toilets, aren't they typical? ). Otherwise, to answer Bob's question, if you are looking for a reasonably priced lunch, go to any "business" neighborhood in Paris (Opera, Saint-Germain, Odéon, Champs-Elysées, actually nearly all of them ! ) and pick any café offering lunch. They all have a "menu déjeûner" for 60 or 80 F. For dinner, my favorites include Le Zéphyr, rue du Jourdain in the 20th (no Minneapolis neighbors there ! ), Le Bistrot des Envierges, rue des Envierges in the 20th (again, sorry, it's my neighborhood... ), le square Trousseau in the 12th for a few more bucks, etc.