Just returned from 2 weeks in Italy: My LONG story with hotel and restaurant information!
Jun 3rd, 1998, 01:12 PM
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Just returned from 2 weeks in Italy: My LONG story with hotel and restaurant information!
Well I'm back from Italy (came home 31 June) and my husband and I had a great time! Since everyone on
this Fodor's web site has been great to me in responding to my many questions, I'm posting information from our trip. Here we go! ROME: We were there for 3 days. Loved seeing all of the sights. We walked everywhere. Took the bus from/to the train station to/from Hotel Smeraldo, Vicolo dei Chiodaroli, 9, 00186 Roma. Phone: 06-687-5929, fax: 688-05-495. We paid L160,000 per night and this hotel is in a great location. It's around the corner from Campo di Fiori. We took the bus to Largo Argentina. The room was nice and clean with our own bathroom and t.v. Also, we took the direct train from the airport to Termini which was L15,000 per person. Our first full day in Rome we spent going to the Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Trevi
Fountain, Piazza Venezia, Roman Forum, Colosseum, Baths of Caracalla and back to our hotel via the Teatre Marcello. A long day of walking! The next day we walked to the Spanish Steps, passing the Trevi Fountain; up to Piazza Popola; walked to and toured the Vatican (which the whole face is under scaffolding). We took the stairs (L5,000 each) (or L6,000 with the elevator and some stairs) up to the Cupola. That was a long climb, but great views of the city. The 3rd day we spent in Trastevere before taking the afternoon train to Naples. NAPLES: Stayed at a cousins house. Spent the first day driving along the Amalfi coast which was beautiful! Second day in Naples visiting: The Archeological site of San Lorenzo Maggiore, Cappella
Sansevero which has the fabulous Veiled Christ. There is Via Toledo for shopping. We also went to the Galleria, the Palace, and Castel Nuovo. Our third day was supposed to be a trip to Capri, but it rained ALL day. So we relaxed, did laundry, and visited with family. We ate like kings! They were great hosts. VENICE: My favorite place in Italy! What a city. So unique. Take extra film for this location. Every where you turn, there's another great photo op. We stayed at the Hotel Galleria (Accademia - Dorsoduro 878/a, 30123 Venezia; tele/fax: 041/520-4172; ask for Luciano or Stefano, both speak English; L150,000 per night with bathroom and breakfast in the room) next to the Accademia bridge. Great location. The room was small, clean. The bathroom was tiny, but had a toilet, sink, and shower with door. We had a room with a view of the Grand canal, though I wish there were balconies from the rooms. We walked everywhere and also used the vaporetto to get around. We visited most of the areas in Venice including the Ghetto. Took the vaporetto to Murano and checked out some glass factories. Even saw the demonstration of the making
of a "leetle 'orse" as Rick Steve's mentions in his book. Should have bought one if only for a good laugh. We did the usual sights: Palazzo Ducale, the Campanile, and the Basilica. Took the stairs up both the Basilica and Campanile for some great views of Venice. Venice is a museum in itself. I really enjoyed wandering down little streets (get away from the San Marco area). We shopped for gold in Venice. MILAN: Took a 3 hour train to Milan. Stayed at Hotel Speronari (Via Speronari, 4, 20123; tele: 02-864-61125; fax: 02-720-03178; L130,000). Make sure you ask for a room with a bathroom room that has a SEPARATE shower stall. Our shower was in the same small area as the toilet and sink. The sink slid from left to right and there was a curtain which covered the toilet/sink so it wouldn't get wet. Otherwise, the room was comfortable and
roomy. We visited the Duomo (went to the top L6,000), saw the painting of the Last Supper, had a picnic at the Sforza Castle, toured the museum there; then went window shopping on Via Montenepoleone. One dress in a window display was priced at $2,400.00!!! RESTAURANTS: All our meals were great. We averaged $40 for a full meal and a bottle of house wine. Best meals were in Naples, although the pizza in Milan was excellent, better than in Naples (the cook must have been from Naples). ROME: "Osteria ar Galletto," Piazza Farnese, 102; tel: 06-686-1714; recommended by Cheap Eats in Italy. Very good meal. "La Fraschetta," Via S. Agnese in Agone, 21, Piazza Navona; tele: 06/688-06806; "Pizza Fantasy," Via di Pietra,
85, tele: 67-80-973. NAPLES: Add'a Figlia do Marenaro, Via Foria, 180-182, tele: 081-440-827. This place had excelled seafood and they specialized in a soup called Suppa di Cozze. No broth, but mixed shellfish on top of toast with hot oil. It's a local Neopolitan dish. My husband's cousin paid for our meals, so I couldn't say what the price was, but I'm sure it was expensive. Ristorante Pappone in Nerano (on the Amalfi coast). It's located in the Pensione La Certosa, Nerano - Marina del Cantone, tele: 081-8081-209. Excellent seafood. "'A Fenestella" Via Marechiaro, 23, Napoli, Tele: 081-769-0020. Great antipasta and pizza on the water. VENICE: "Taverna San Trovaso" Dorsoduro, 1016, (ponte dell'Accademia, tele: 041-520-3703. "Trattoria Ai Cugnai" S. Vio Accademia N857, tele: 528-9238; another recommendation from Cheap Eats. Best meal we had in Venice. "Omnibus a Terrasse" S. Marco, Riva del Carbon 4171, tele: 041-52-37-213. On the grand canal near the Rialto bridge. Had the 'tourist' menu which was pretty good. MILAN: Calafuria Unione, Via dell' Unione, 8, tele: 864-62091; Ciardi Linda e Gennaro, Via S. Raffaele, 6, near the Galleria on the east side; tele:
877-704. This is where we had the best pizza (a big surprise since Naples is THE pizza capitol of Italy). Total cost for 2 pizzas and beer and wine was L48,000. As I stated, we had good meals in Italy. We treated ourselves to drinks at the Piazzas, which is always more expensive than standing at the bar. The most expensive place was sitting outside in the Piazza San Marco listening to the bands play. But it was worth it! Other comments: We felt VERY safe in Italy. We never encountered any problems with pickpockets. We
never saw anyone else bothered. The canals Venice did NOT smell, though one or 2 smaller ones did
because they were being worked on and the water was blocked. The weather was great except for the one
day in Naples and it sprinkled in Venice one late afternoon. The water is safe to drink. We did take travelers checks but never used them. We used our debit card for most transactions (no problems with the ATM machines as we have a 4 digit pin number) and used our master card at all restaurants that took credit cards. We bought gold jewelery and will get our tax back (20%25)(this works only if you spend over L300,000 in one location). Well, I'm sure I've put some of you to sleep. If anyone has any questions, I'll be glad to answer them. Please email me at home: [email protected] since I've been away from work for so long that I won't have the time to check the Fodors site too often (for now). I really loved Italy and I know that anyone who
goes will love it too! Next trip: FRANCE in 1999! When I get started, I'll be posting questions on France. Ciao.
this Fodor's web site has been great to me in responding to my many questions, I'm posting information from our trip. Here we go! ROME: We were there for 3 days. Loved seeing all of the sights. We walked everywhere. Took the bus from/to the train station to/from Hotel Smeraldo, Vicolo dei Chiodaroli, 9, 00186 Roma. Phone: 06-687-5929, fax: 688-05-495. We paid L160,000 per night and this hotel is in a great location. It's around the corner from Campo di Fiori. We took the bus to Largo Argentina. The room was nice and clean with our own bathroom and t.v. Also, we took the direct train from the airport to Termini which was L15,000 per person. Our first full day in Rome we spent going to the Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Trevi
Fountain, Piazza Venezia, Roman Forum, Colosseum, Baths of Caracalla and back to our hotel via the Teatre Marcello. A long day of walking! The next day we walked to the Spanish Steps, passing the Trevi Fountain; up to Piazza Popola; walked to and toured the Vatican (which the whole face is under scaffolding). We took the stairs (L5,000 each) (or L6,000 with the elevator and some stairs) up to the Cupola. That was a long climb, but great views of the city. The 3rd day we spent in Trastevere before taking the afternoon train to Naples. NAPLES: Stayed at a cousins house. Spent the first day driving along the Amalfi coast which was beautiful! Second day in Naples visiting: The Archeological site of San Lorenzo Maggiore, Cappella
Sansevero which has the fabulous Veiled Christ. There is Via Toledo for shopping. We also went to the Galleria, the Palace, and Castel Nuovo. Our third day was supposed to be a trip to Capri, but it rained ALL day. So we relaxed, did laundry, and visited with family. We ate like kings! They were great hosts. VENICE: My favorite place in Italy! What a city. So unique. Take extra film for this location. Every where you turn, there's another great photo op. We stayed at the Hotel Galleria (Accademia - Dorsoduro 878/a, 30123 Venezia; tele/fax: 041/520-4172; ask for Luciano or Stefano, both speak English; L150,000 per night with bathroom and breakfast in the room) next to the Accademia bridge. Great location. The room was small, clean. The bathroom was tiny, but had a toilet, sink, and shower with door. We had a room with a view of the Grand canal, though I wish there were balconies from the rooms. We walked everywhere and also used the vaporetto to get around. We visited most of the areas in Venice including the Ghetto. Took the vaporetto to Murano and checked out some glass factories. Even saw the demonstration of the making
of a "leetle 'orse" as Rick Steve's mentions in his book. Should have bought one if only for a good laugh. We did the usual sights: Palazzo Ducale, the Campanile, and the Basilica. Took the stairs up both the Basilica and Campanile for some great views of Venice. Venice is a museum in itself. I really enjoyed wandering down little streets (get away from the San Marco area). We shopped for gold in Venice. MILAN: Took a 3 hour train to Milan. Stayed at Hotel Speronari (Via Speronari, 4, 20123; tele: 02-864-61125; fax: 02-720-03178; L130,000). Make sure you ask for a room with a bathroom room that has a SEPARATE shower stall. Our shower was in the same small area as the toilet and sink. The sink slid from left to right and there was a curtain which covered the toilet/sink so it wouldn't get wet. Otherwise, the room was comfortable and
roomy. We visited the Duomo (went to the top L6,000), saw the painting of the Last Supper, had a picnic at the Sforza Castle, toured the museum there; then went window shopping on Via Montenepoleone. One dress in a window display was priced at $2,400.00!!! RESTAURANTS: All our meals were great. We averaged $40 for a full meal and a bottle of house wine. Best meals were in Naples, although the pizza in Milan was excellent, better than in Naples (the cook must have been from Naples). ROME: "Osteria ar Galletto," Piazza Farnese, 102; tel: 06-686-1714; recommended by Cheap Eats in Italy. Very good meal. "La Fraschetta," Via S. Agnese in Agone, 21, Piazza Navona; tele: 06/688-06806; "Pizza Fantasy," Via di Pietra,
85, tele: 67-80-973. NAPLES: Add'a Figlia do Marenaro, Via Foria, 180-182, tele: 081-440-827. This place had excelled seafood and they specialized in a soup called Suppa di Cozze. No broth, but mixed shellfish on top of toast with hot oil. It's a local Neopolitan dish. My husband's cousin paid for our meals, so I couldn't say what the price was, but I'm sure it was expensive. Ristorante Pappone in Nerano (on the Amalfi coast). It's located in the Pensione La Certosa, Nerano - Marina del Cantone, tele: 081-8081-209. Excellent seafood. "'A Fenestella" Via Marechiaro, 23, Napoli, Tele: 081-769-0020. Great antipasta and pizza on the water. VENICE: "Taverna San Trovaso" Dorsoduro, 1016, (ponte dell'Accademia, tele: 041-520-3703. "Trattoria Ai Cugnai" S. Vio Accademia N857, tele: 528-9238; another recommendation from Cheap Eats. Best meal we had in Venice. "Omnibus a Terrasse" S. Marco, Riva del Carbon 4171, tele: 041-52-37-213. On the grand canal near the Rialto bridge. Had the 'tourist' menu which was pretty good. MILAN: Calafuria Unione, Via dell' Unione, 8, tele: 864-62091; Ciardi Linda e Gennaro, Via S. Raffaele, 6, near the Galleria on the east side; tele:
877-704. This is where we had the best pizza (a big surprise since Naples is THE pizza capitol of Italy). Total cost for 2 pizzas and beer and wine was L48,000. As I stated, we had good meals in Italy. We treated ourselves to drinks at the Piazzas, which is always more expensive than standing at the bar. The most expensive place was sitting outside in the Piazza San Marco listening to the bands play. But it was worth it! Other comments: We felt VERY safe in Italy. We never encountered any problems with pickpockets. We
never saw anyone else bothered. The canals Venice did NOT smell, though one or 2 smaller ones did
because they were being worked on and the water was blocked. The weather was great except for the one
day in Naples and it sprinkled in Venice one late afternoon. The water is safe to drink. We did take travelers checks but never used them. We used our debit card for most transactions (no problems with the ATM machines as we have a 4 digit pin number) and used our master card at all restaurants that took credit cards. We bought gold jewelery and will get our tax back (20%25)(this works only if you spend over L300,000 in one location). Well, I'm sure I've put some of you to sleep. If anyone has any questions, I'll be glad to answer them. Please email me at home: [email protected] since I've been away from work for so long that I won't have the time to check the Fodors site too often (for now). I really loved Italy and I know that anyone who
goes will love it too! Next trip: FRANCE in 1999! When I get started, I'll be posting questions on France. Ciao.
Jun 3rd, 1998, 05:46 PM
#2
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Monica-We just returned from Italy last week-I recall seeing some of our questions that helped me planning our trip too! Ditto on your Venice comments. We loved Venice - not smelly and we stayed at a "sister" hotel to the Accademia -Hotel DO Pozzi. I had called the Academia in Oct and they were booked. I was fascinated by the ghetto and did the synagogue tour-quite interesting. We did all the same things you mentioned including Murano-it was a nice boat ride! Everywhere we ate was wonderful & I even lost a few pounds from all the walking. We too spent time at nite at San Marco Sqw. listening to the music-it was a great trip! We spent the rest of our time in Flor & Tuscany. Thanks for your questions over the last months. We were in Paris 1 1/2 yrs ago when you begin work on that trip. Your LONG narrative was great and informative for those planning their trip-%3DBest regards- Sharon
Jun 3rd, 1998, 05:47 PM
#3
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Monica-We just returned from Italy last week-I recall seeing some of our questions that helped me planning our trip too! Ditto on your Venice comments. We loved Venice - not smelly and we stayed at a "sister" hotel to the Accademia -Hotel DO Pozzi. I had called the Academia in Oct and they were booked. I was fascinated by the ghetto and did the synagogue tour-quite interesting. We did all the same things you mentioned including Murano-it was a nice boat ride! Everywhere we ate was wonderful & I even lost a few pounds from all the walking. We too spent time at nite at San Marco Sqw. listening to the music-it was a great trip! We spent the rest of our time in Flor & Tuscany. Thanks for your questions over the last months. We were in Paris 1 1/2 yrs ago when you begin work on that trip. Your LONG narrative was great and informative for those planning their trip-%3DBest regards- Sharon
Jun 3rd, 1998, 05:50 PM
#4
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Monica-We just returned from Italy last week-I recall seeing some of our questions that helped me planning our trip too! Ditto on your Venice comments. We loved Venice - not smelly and we stayed at a "sister" hotel to the Accademia -Hotel DO Pozzi. I had called the Academia in Oct and they were booked. I was fascinated by the ghetto and did the synagogue tour-quite interesting. We did all the same things you mentioned including Murano-it was a nice boat ride! Everywhere we ate was wonderful & I even lost a few pounds from all the walking. We too spent time at nite at San Marco Sqw. listening to the music-it was a great trip! We spent the rest of our time in Flor & Tuscany. Thanks for your questions over the last months. We were in Paris 1 1/2 yrs ago when you begin work on that trip. Your LONG narrative was great and informative for those planning their trip-%3DBest regards- Sharon
Jun 3rd, 1998, 06:02 PM
#5
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Monica-We just returned from Italy last week-I recall seeing some of our questions that helped me planning our trip too! Ditto on your Venice comments. We loved Venice - not smelly and we stayed at a "sister" hotel to the Accademia -Hotel DO Pozzi. I had called the Academia in Oct and they were booked. I was fascinated by the ghetto and did the synagogue tour-quite interesting. We did all the same things you mentioned including Murano-it was a nice boat ride! Everywhere we ate was wonderful & I even lost a few pounds from all the walking. We too spent time at nite at San Marco Sqw. listening to the music-it was a great trip! We spent the rest of our time in Flor & Tuscany. Thanks for your questions over the last months. We were in Paris 1 1/2 yrs ago when you begin work on that trip. Your LONG narrative was great and informative for those planning their trip-%3DBest regards- Sharon
Jun 4th, 1998, 04:04 AM
#6
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Hi Sharon, I have my photos in my album (about 13 rolls) and LOVE them! What great memories to look back on. I did see your hotel while walking ALL over Venice. Was it nice inside? How was the bathroom? Well, time to move on and start reading about France.
Jun 8th, 1998, 03:51 AM
#9
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Yes Al, we DID have a good time in Naples! There is a lot to see there and our hosts were great! Next time you go to Naples (as I know you go there often) see more of the sights! Only problem there was that the family made us eat too much food, though it was delicious.
Jun 13th, 1998, 09:21 AM
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Dear Monica - I am feeling much better and am now getting things ready. We leave next Wednesday evening and will return on the evening of July 4. Am planning/hoping to keep a journal so will post my thoughts upon my return. Thanks so much to you, Joe Lomax, Bob the Navigator, and many others in this forum who have given me invaluable advice 
Jun 14th, 1998, 06:03 AM
#14
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Michele: Take a journal! It's so much fun to look back on your trip and to read some of the things you may not remember. I always took my journal with me in my day bag and when ever we took a break, I would jot down some notes. Most other times I would write before going to sleep. You'll be glad you took one. <BR> <BR>Hiba: I'm sorry, but I don't know those hotels. If you "found" them in a reputable guide book, I don't think you'll have a problem with them.
Jun 19th, 1998, 11:44 AM
#16
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Cathryn, I don't know when you're going, but May (last two weeks) was terrific! I took a button front sweater and a heavier cotton jacket. Never wore them during the day, but needed one or other other at night. If you're going in the summer, you probably can skip the jacket, but take a light sweater for cool nights. Check out the USA today web site (or any other major weather site) for their international weather. It gives a five day forecast which can at least help you for the first 5 days of your trip! It helped me with my packing!
Jun 22nd, 1998, 09:42 AM
#20
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Nicole, I have never gone to Europe with a tour group. I suggest you contact the Italian Tourist Board in New York (or the nearest one near you) and see if they have suggestions for tour companies. You can check with American Express as they do tours. Also, you can check with travel agents and through the many guide books. Good luck! PS: Try to get with a tour group that's not so restricted with meals and sightseeing.
