Just back from wonderful week in Paris
May 29th, 2005, 04:49 PM
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Just back from wonderful week in Paris
Thank you to all the fodorites who helped to shape our week in Paris. We had a wonderful time based in an apartment in the 7e and it was in no small part thanks to the advice on this board. I hope to post a trip report in the not to distant future, meantime, bonne nuit and merci!
Jun 5th, 2005, 05:06 PM
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I am here to bear witness that it is possible to fly coach (Continental), rent an apartment (Parisperfect), not walk until your feet ache for moleskin (thanks to the bus system), and spend a thoroughly romantic week for two in Paris. Of course, having a week of bright, pleasant weather (only our final day proved too hot) was an added bonus. We've been to Paris several times before, and have long since left behind the days of squeezing the 3 day Michelin tour into one day's walk. We are considerably less high energy types these days, and were looking for a relaxing week in a city we love.
TRANSPORTATION/COMMUNICATIONS/LOGISTICS: We flew Continental, 10pm flight from the east coast, and made sure to have dinner before arriving at the airport. By the time 11pm rolled around, we did our best to get a few hours sleep. This worked pretty well and we probably slept about 3 - 4 hrs.,arriving in Paris about 11:30am. Had no problem activating our mobile phone with SIM card at a Relay store in CDG before getting into a short taxi line for the 45 euro drive to our apartment in the 7e. For our return trip to the airport, we had booked an airport shuttle (www.bluvan.fr)about one month in advance to receive the best rate of 29 euros. The shuttle arrived on time and we had an equally uneventful (isn't that the best kind) of flight back home. If you just plan to use the bus while in Paris, there is really no need to go to a metro station to purchase a carnet of tickets, as they are available at any tabac that advertises the turquoise RATP sign. While in Paris, we used our digital camera (with extra battery), laptop, mobile phone, and ceramic flat iron. Everything was dual voltage (that is to say, Europe-ready), so only needed a plug adapter to work. All went smoothly in this department.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Having rented an apartment in Paris two years ago, we knew we wanted to repeat the experience, but in a different neighborhood and with a balcony. The people at Parisperfect run a very professional operation. The apartments are attractive and well decorated. Everything one needs is provided, all is clean, comfortable, thoughtful, compact and well designed. The linens, towels, appliances, furniture, etc. are fine quality, and help one to feel right at home. The apartments are well-located, as this is a neighborhood filled with markets, boulangeries, delis, fleuristes, restaurants, pharmacies, pharmacies and parapharmacies, and grocery stores. Anything one needs is just a few steps away.
Our particular apartment was on rue St. Dominique, with a drop dead view of la tour Eiffel. While the balcony overlooks Avenue Rapp with its street noise, the bedroom and kitchen look onto a quiet courtyard. The living/dining/balcony areas get the afternoon sun which can really heat up an apartment. Fans are provided, but alas no air conditioning. Knowing this, I would not book an apartment in Paris for the summer months. As for our particular week, the weather was lovely and I was even able to catch some rays while lounging on the balcony in the late afternoons. Happy hour (provided courtesy of the inexpensive wine department at the G-20 grocery store across the street, as well as the fabulous cheese shops, La Fromagerie and Marie Cantin) on the balcony soon turned into dinner in the neighborhood.
RESTAURANTS: During the week we ate at the following spots for dinner: Le P'Tit Troquet, Le Maupertu, Thomieux, La Fontaine de Mars and La Taverna. All were a short stroll from the apartment and ranged from 65 euros to 95 euros for dinner with wine (sometimes kir, always dessert). All our meals were very good, with F de M being best overall, and Thomieux having the best dessert in the form of a delectable raspberry tart, as well as a waiter straight out of central casting. There are at least another dozen restaurants in the area, and all seem worthy of attention. The fact that you can stroll to and from dinner also adds to the air of relaxation. We ate lunch at a small creperie near the musee Rodin, le Goemon, and across Ave. Rapp at Le Champs de Mars as we got our bearings on arrival day. The balance of our meals were enjoyed in the apartment, as the bounty of pate en croute, gherkins, salade, fresh berries, jambon, fromages, fromages et encore de fromages, as well as baguette after baguette after croissants aux beurres. Ah, Paris tastes delicious!
SIGHTS: It quickly became apparent that this trip would be all about the Eiffel Tower. It is an astounding sight that is yours for as long as you rent the apartment. You are so close that you can see the elevator make its frequent runs up the tower. La tour is lit each night from 9pm or so (sunset was about 9:45 while we were there) until it goes dark for the night at 1:10am. Each hour on the hour, the lights put on a show and twinkle for ten minutes. The finale occurs at 1am, after which the entire tower goes dark for the night.
SIGHTS: Took the Bateaux Parisiens boat ride, and wound up with a boat load of school children. Saw the Musee Marmottan-Monet, which is well worth the trek to the outskirts of the 16e. Musee Rodin which we managed to miss on our last trip, even though we stayed nearby. Some of Rodin's painting collection is almost as impressive as his sculpture garden. Strolled the Champs de Mars, all around la tour Eiffel and the Trocadero, as well as les Invalides. Took the bus to L'Opera Garnier and shopped the streets around La Madeleine. Spent many lovely hours shopping the rue Cler/rue de Grenelle/rue St. Dominique neighborhoods. We really enjoy getting to know a neighborhood and this area was a great place to enjoy la vie parisienne and to practice my French. Whatever we missed seeing this trip will have to wait until the next time. I hope this trip report is helpful. I know that the advice I've received from Fodors over the years has been helpful for me. We had a wonderful week and Paris was very nearly perfect. Merci!
TRANSPORTATION/COMMUNICATIONS/LOGISTICS: We flew Continental, 10pm flight from the east coast, and made sure to have dinner before arriving at the airport. By the time 11pm rolled around, we did our best to get a few hours sleep. This worked pretty well and we probably slept about 3 - 4 hrs.,arriving in Paris about 11:30am. Had no problem activating our mobile phone with SIM card at a Relay store in CDG before getting into a short taxi line for the 45 euro drive to our apartment in the 7e. For our return trip to the airport, we had booked an airport shuttle (www.bluvan.fr)about one month in advance to receive the best rate of 29 euros. The shuttle arrived on time and we had an equally uneventful (isn't that the best kind) of flight back home. If you just plan to use the bus while in Paris, there is really no need to go to a metro station to purchase a carnet of tickets, as they are available at any tabac that advertises the turquoise RATP sign. While in Paris, we used our digital camera (with extra battery), laptop, mobile phone, and ceramic flat iron. Everything was dual voltage (that is to say, Europe-ready), so only needed a plug adapter to work. All went smoothly in this department.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Having rented an apartment in Paris two years ago, we knew we wanted to repeat the experience, but in a different neighborhood and with a balcony. The people at Parisperfect run a very professional operation. The apartments are attractive and well decorated. Everything one needs is provided, all is clean, comfortable, thoughtful, compact and well designed. The linens, towels, appliances, furniture, etc. are fine quality, and help one to feel right at home. The apartments are well-located, as this is a neighborhood filled with markets, boulangeries, delis, fleuristes, restaurants, pharmacies, pharmacies and parapharmacies, and grocery stores. Anything one needs is just a few steps away.
Our particular apartment was on rue St. Dominique, with a drop dead view of la tour Eiffel. While the balcony overlooks Avenue Rapp with its street noise, the bedroom and kitchen look onto a quiet courtyard. The living/dining/balcony areas get the afternoon sun which can really heat up an apartment. Fans are provided, but alas no air conditioning. Knowing this, I would not book an apartment in Paris for the summer months. As for our particular week, the weather was lovely and I was even able to catch some rays while lounging on the balcony in the late afternoons. Happy hour (provided courtesy of the inexpensive wine department at the G-20 grocery store across the street, as well as the fabulous cheese shops, La Fromagerie and Marie Cantin) on the balcony soon turned into dinner in the neighborhood.
RESTAURANTS: During the week we ate at the following spots for dinner: Le P'Tit Troquet, Le Maupertu, Thomieux, La Fontaine de Mars and La Taverna. All were a short stroll from the apartment and ranged from 65 euros to 95 euros for dinner with wine (sometimes kir, always dessert). All our meals were very good, with F de M being best overall, and Thomieux having the best dessert in the form of a delectable raspberry tart, as well as a waiter straight out of central casting. There are at least another dozen restaurants in the area, and all seem worthy of attention. The fact that you can stroll to and from dinner also adds to the air of relaxation. We ate lunch at a small creperie near the musee Rodin, le Goemon, and across Ave. Rapp at Le Champs de Mars as we got our bearings on arrival day. The balance of our meals were enjoyed in the apartment, as the bounty of pate en croute, gherkins, salade, fresh berries, jambon, fromages, fromages et encore de fromages, as well as baguette after baguette after croissants aux beurres. Ah, Paris tastes delicious!
SIGHTS: It quickly became apparent that this trip would be all about the Eiffel Tower. It is an astounding sight that is yours for as long as you rent the apartment. You are so close that you can see the elevator make its frequent runs up the tower. La tour is lit each night from 9pm or so (sunset was about 9:45 while we were there) until it goes dark for the night at 1:10am. Each hour on the hour, the lights put on a show and twinkle for ten minutes. The finale occurs at 1am, after which the entire tower goes dark for the night.
SIGHTS: Took the Bateaux Parisiens boat ride, and wound up with a boat load of school children. Saw the Musee Marmottan-Monet, which is well worth the trek to the outskirts of the 16e. Musee Rodin which we managed to miss on our last trip, even though we stayed nearby. Some of Rodin's painting collection is almost as impressive as his sculpture garden. Strolled the Champs de Mars, all around la tour Eiffel and the Trocadero, as well as les Invalides. Took the bus to L'Opera Garnier and shopped the streets around La Madeleine. Spent many lovely hours shopping the rue Cler/rue de Grenelle/rue St. Dominique neighborhoods. We really enjoy getting to know a neighborhood and this area was a great place to enjoy la vie parisienne and to practice my French. Whatever we missed seeing this trip will have to wait until the next time. I hope this trip report is helpful. I know that the advice I've received from Fodors over the years has been helpful for me. We had a wonderful week and Paris was very nearly perfect. Merci!
Jun 6th, 2005, 12:30 AM
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Thanks for the detailed trip report! Of special interest , as we'll be staying in a ParisPerfect apartment. Hopefully it won't be TOO hot in July!! Merci for your generously shared ideas, recommendations, and
**enthousiasme**
**enthousiasme**
Jun 6th, 2005, 02:50 AM
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Merci, elsiejune! It really does sound like a perfect week! Wow, a balcony AND a view of the Eiffel Tower... ahhh! That is truly a wonderful way to experience Paris.
I'm glad to hear La Fontaine de Mars is still good -- I have enjoyed it in the past.
I leave for Paris on Thursday -- yea!!!!! My last two trips were in the winter, so I'm happy to hear that not only will the weather be more agreeable, but my days in Paris will be longer too. I assume the weather now will be fairly hot, though. We may have to spend a fair amount of time sitting in the shade at a cafe, sipping a chilled glass of wine to cool us down!!8-)
I've never used the bus system -- always walked or used the occasional taxi. Was it difficult to use?
I'm glad to hear La Fontaine de Mars is still good -- I have enjoyed it in the past.
I leave for Paris on Thursday -- yea!!!!! My last two trips were in the winter, so I'm happy to hear that not only will the weather be more agreeable, but my days in Paris will be longer too. I assume the weather now will be fairly hot, though. We may have to spend a fair amount of time sitting in the shade at a cafe, sipping a chilled glass of wine to cool us down!!8-)
I've never used the bus system -- always walked or used the occasional taxi. Was it difficult to use?
Jun 6th, 2005, 04:39 AM
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Good morning amarena! The bus system is extremely user-friendly. Check out the RATP website before you leave(www.ratp.fr)and play around with it for awhile. There's even a section (in English) that will give you exact directions and bus routes, or walking directions for that matter. I think that site is www.ratp/informer/anglais/index.php. In any event, you can print a copy of the bus lines that you think you'll need before you leave for Paris. Be sure to note the ultimate destination of the bus line you'll be taking, as you'll only want to take the bus in the direction you're headed. It's quite simple once you get your bearings. Otherwise, it's a long sightseeing experience, courtesy of the RATP. As you are sure to know from this board, there are many ways to pay for a bus ride. For us, a carnet of 10 tickets made the most sense, and these were easy to purchase at any tabac that displays the turquoise RATP logo, costing 1 euro per ride. I wouldn't hestitate to use the bus; it's easy, convenient, and clean. I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time in Paris. Enjoy!
Jun 6th, 2005, 04:47 AM
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Hi Ira! The lovely apartment is named Cabernet. Rates and information are posted on the website, www.parisperfect.com. We booked our week a year in advance, so our rate was somewhat lower than currently advertised. Would you mind telling me how to include smiley faces in my text? I gave it a shot for my trip report, but no luck. What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Ira. Have a good day.
Jun 6th, 2005, 04:56 AM
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elsiejune, what a great summary. Thanks so much for posting that.
<i>"... Thomieux having the best dessert in the form of a delectable raspberry tart, as well as a waiter straight out of central casting."</i>
I'm glad to hear you liked it. We've had dinner there several times, and I think we've had the same waiter!
Anselm
<i>"... Thomieux having the best dessert in the form of a delectable raspberry tart, as well as a waiter straight out of central casting."</i>
I'm glad to hear you liked it. We've had dinner there several times, and I think we've had the same waiter!
Anselm
Jun 6th, 2005, 06:37 AM
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Thank you elsiejune!
Your posting takes me back to March and our stay in that area in our ParisPerfect apt
We became regulars at Marie Cantin LOL as well as Le Notre and the Patisserie on rue Cler..isn't it fun shopping in that area!?
I love the way the Eiffel Tower twinkled at night . I hated to close the shades in the apt because I wanted to fall asleep watching it ~
Most nights before bedtime, we would just stroll over to the ET and look and walk back, sort of trying to imprint it on our memories forever~
Thank you for reminding me of how lovely it all was
Your posting takes me back to March and our stay in that area in our ParisPerfect apt
We became regulars at Marie Cantin LOL as well as Le Notre and the Patisserie on rue Cler..isn't it fun shopping in that area!?
I love the way the Eiffel Tower twinkled at night . I hated to close the shades in the apt because I wanted to fall asleep watching it ~
Most nights before bedtime, we would just stroll over to the ET and look and walk back, sort of trying to imprint it on our memories forever~
Thank you for reminding me of how lovely it all was
Feb 4th, 2006, 06:52 PM
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I'm not sure why the OP chose an apartment, but for a week's stay it makes sense to me. We're planning to go to Paris for a week in September, and we're renting an apartment. We plan to be out a lot, but it'll be nice to have something other than a small room if we do want to spend some time relaxing. Plus I think it'll keep our costs down, and that's an important factor for me.
Feb 4th, 2006, 07:25 PM
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For me, one of the best things about an apartment in Paris was being able to do a little shopping the evening before, at the Bon Marche grocery and at the corner pattiserie, and have breakfast in the apartment, before getting dressed and showered and hitting the streets. We never cooked or prepared other meals, but just being able to eat a relaxing breakfast while planning the days activities was a real pleasure.
Feb 5th, 2006, 07:15 AM
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Notes from the OP:
Several years ago we had the opportunity to meet a traveling family member (our daughter was awarded a fellowship which sent her far from home for a year of international travel) for a week each in Paris and Provence. A rental apartment gave us more space and all the comforts and illusion of home for a better price than two small left bank hotel rooms could offer. When my husband and I planned our next vacation to Paris last May, we decided to repeat the experience. Renting an apartment is not necessarily less expensive than a hotel, especially for only two people. You can see real savings, however, when it replaces two or three hotel rooms. We really enjoy the luxury of extra space and the added privacy that it provides, the ability to market and prepare simple meals, and to live a slice of la vie parisienne. If you want the comforts of a hotel (concierge, room service, other guests) then an apartment rental is not for you. As for this francophile, I can't wait to repeat the experience!
Several years ago we had the opportunity to meet a traveling family member (our daughter was awarded a fellowship which sent her far from home for a year of international travel) for a week each in Paris and Provence. A rental apartment gave us more space and all the comforts and illusion of home for a better price than two small left bank hotel rooms could offer. When my husband and I planned our next vacation to Paris last May, we decided to repeat the experience. Renting an apartment is not necessarily less expensive than a hotel, especially for only two people. You can see real savings, however, when it replaces two or three hotel rooms. We really enjoy the luxury of extra space and the added privacy that it provides, the ability to market and prepare simple meals, and to live a slice of la vie parisienne. If you want the comforts of a hotel (concierge, room service, other guests) then an apartment rental is not for you. As for this francophile, I can't wait to repeat the experience!
Feb 8th, 2006, 01:58 PM
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My favorite thing was to spend time alone with my husband in such a beautiful setting, but perhaps that's not the answer you're looking for. 
I think that just strolling Paris and shopping the food markets was a real highlight, especially when we were able to enjoy some meals in a beautiful apartment with an outstanding view of the Eiffel Tower. The view is truly superb and the tower's light show is a nightly feature that's unforgettable.
I think that just strolling Paris and shopping the food markets was a real highlight, especially when we were able to enjoy some meals in a beautiful apartment with an outstanding view of the Eiffel Tower. The view is truly superb and the tower's light show is a nightly feature that's unforgettable.
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