Thanks for the correction. After 22 hours of traveling, my brain was a little fuzzy. I'm amazed how much I've forgotten already (details)of what we did, where we went...

Just an observation for what it's worth - it's all so personal. I did not care much for Murano. I thought we would be bombarded by sales people at the vaporetto stop, which did not happen, but I found it a bit overwhelming. I couldn't tell a good piece of glass from a bad one. We went to one of the furnaces that was recommended as reputable in my AAA guide, but again, who knows. What we bought could be from China - who knows. We did get a certificate with it, so hopefully not. Perhaps if we had taken the time to see the glassblowing demonstration we would have learned more, but DH did not want to. Murano was also filled with tour buses the day we were there - perhaps that colored my perception.

I was really surprised at how very touristy Burano was. Kind of trinkety touristy. Houses were interesting to see though with the bright colors.

If I had to do it over again, I would go to Torcello only (and San Michele and San Giorgio). As someone here said, you can find the same glass in Venice - it's not any cheaper in Murano.

Wanted to mention that we also used Access Venice for write-ups of restaurants and shops. For restaurants we also used Cheap Eats Italy (newer version, I forget the name). When we found a shop or restaurant we liked, we used the maps in access to see where in the sestiere it was, to see how far it was from where we were. Gave us a point of reference, then on to the Map Easy map and then the magnetic map.

I was pleasantly surprised that the streets (Calles) were all marked so well. What we didn't realize was that there were so many that were so short. To get from point A to point B on a map looked like a small distance, but it actually took quite awhile, as it might involve navigating 15 small streets to get there. Rather fun though. We weren't in any hurry.

Perhaps someone Italian can tell me this - I ordered most days/nights white wine. I found it to be very drinkable and light. It is unlike the white wine here at home which is heavier and gives me a headache. Is this just some sort of Italian table wine, and can it be bought in the US? I also loved Processo.

One other thing with the food. Although we had an Italian/English dictionary, we also had a little book we used alot which was just for food, and was a dictionary. So when we got the the restaurant we would look up what we didn't recognize on the menu. If anyone wants to know, I'll look up the name.

We used AAA guide also for planning our days. Again, separated into sestieres, so gives good daily itinerarys. What I liked was the "Don't Miss" sections for each sestiere, and then the "At Your Leisure", with detailed descriptions of each sight, and hints about it (when to arrive, etc. - here is where we found out about the Monks' chants on San Giorgiore). The maps in the book really were not great - not detailed enough, so we did not use those.

Sorry, keep forgetting things.

One thing I wanted to mention, again it is a personal thing. Had we not been pressed for time (we were meeting the owner to the apartment and were already delayed due to a cancelled flight from Boston), I would have opted to take the water taxi directly from the airport to San Marco. The bus ride isn't the greatest scenery, and it is slow. We also found P. Roma confusing and couldn't figue out how to get the right vaporetto. Although it was going out, we found the water taxi to the airport very fast (25 minutes) and pleasant from Rialto.

I was concerned about our first full day in Venice being a Sunday, as I had read most things are closed except in San Marco. I had also read NOT to go to San Marco first day due to the crowds. So we crossed our fingers and chose Dorsoduro, and it turned out to be perfect. This was one of our favorite sestieres, and it was a great intro to the city.

Dorsoduro is low key and quiet. Very peaceful and not too touristy. Contrary to the guides, lots of little stores and galleries and restaurants were open. We just wandered along the canal, could see SM across the canal, went to San Giorgio during mass - it was a perfect day. I was glad we did not do San Marco first day - I would have wondered - is this Venice? I really wish all those kiosks of trinkets were not everywhere in the piazza - takes away from the beauty.

Not to mention the fake designer bags all over the city spread out on blankets so that they can be packed up quickly - it's unfair to the merhants who pay rent - made me feel like I was in NYC. Doesn't appear to be alot of enforcement by police either.

Hi wanderer, I wonder if the light white wine was Pinot Grigio. If so, I can be purchased in the US (at least where I live).

I am a visitor---he is a tourist.
Those tatty trinkets would not be there if tourists didn't buy them.
In a way, it's quite funny to see those fake Guccis and Fendis actually being sold outside the Gucci and Fendi shops. The police do swoop quite often, but the salesmen sing loudly so that all their mates can gather up their bags before the police get there.
There was a newspaper article when I was there that said that several container loads of fake bags had been seized.
Again, it's mainly tourists who buy them.
Of course Burano is touristy. Tourists are one of their "crops". It is still enchanting. Try walking over the bridge to Mazzorbo, it's quiet and peaceful and
it's where the locals eat.

I have always wanted to go to Venice but so far we haven't made it. I enjoyed reading your report and loved the apartment you stayed in. Thanks for all the helpful information. Glad you had a wonderful time.

Robbyn

I enjoyed your informative report, wanderer. Thanks for posting so soon.

We will be returning to magaical Venezia for our second time this fall, so I've printed out some of your helpful tips.

Glad you fell in love with Venice, as so many of us have.

Sorry, the correct name of the restaurant we ate at in Cannaregio (not far from the Jewish Ghetto) was Antica Mola.

Wanderer - the table wine in Venice is fresh wine, with a low alcohol content, that is meant to be consumed very quickly. In Venice there are a number of different whites available this way. You might have had a still Prosecco wine, Tocai, Sauvignon Blanc...

When you go to Venice again you'll see the shops where they sell this kind of wine straight out of the barrel. It's not available in the U.S.

wanderer, thanks for such an informative and thoughtful report. I too fell in love with Venice. One very special memory I have is of getting up very early, before the "day trippers" came over and going to San Marco which was entirely empty except for me, some quiet pigeons and one man with a very large water hose who was washing down the dust. He did it very slowly and methodically from one end to the other, and then at the end just as the sun was streaming past the clock tower, he arched the large stream of water up into the sky so that the sun shone through the drops and they sparkled on their way back down to the surface of the Square.........it was magical and a sight I will never forget.
Thanks for the memories.

Wanderer: I have the same reaction to the wine as you do.

wanderer, thanks for a great report. Where did you buy the Chorus ticket? Is it available at any of the churches which are covered? Is there a list somewhere of what churches are covered? Is it good for a certain number of days, and if so, does it have to be consecutive days? Thanks!

SusanP -
We purchased the chorus tickets at one of the churches after they informed us it was a much better deal than paying individually if we were seeing more than a few. Here's the link to Chorus with the church list for you (below).

http://www.chorusvenezia.org/english/museo/index.htm

NYCFoodSnob -
Why do people travel??? It's different for everyone. For my husband and I it's to get away from stressful jobs, spend some quality time together and experience a new place.

We don't want our vacation filled with "shoulds" and "musts", and if it doesn't fit someone's idea of what is proper, that's too bad. Some might ask why people stay in a hotel, and not an apartment to experience Venice more as a local would. Personal preferance.

I was clear that we had not intended to do any "fine dining" on this trip. Some of us don't have deep pockets and want to have good meals at value prices in local spots, and spend the money on other things rather than just dining.

As to Ristorante Riviera, I was stating fact only for other people who might eat there. The food and views were superb. It was the waitstaff I wasn't pleased with and their practice of charging for "free" items.

For you to insult me, shake your head and question why I even bother to travel - just because I ordered tap water - is very offensive and I find it a little off. I don't see the need to be so judgemental of people just because they do not behave exactly like you.

BTW, bottled water's not so "safe" either.... If you read the recent reports, there's more bacteria in some bottled water than there is in tap.

I'm happy that some people enjoyed my report and have found it helpful.

Wanderer, I remember how thorough and diligent you were about selecting this apt. and was curious to know how it all worked out. So glad you enjoyed it. The big question, if you had it to do over, would you pick this apt. for what you wanted?? Did it have a/c? Did you need it?

Wanderer - Nice trip report. I will use some of the info when I visit Venice this October.

NYCFS - And some people wonder why some people dont post trip reports!! Could it be they fear that they will be ripped apart by other fodorites?

Tom

Mclaurie-
The apartment was perfect - just what we wanted. We would definitely stay here again.

We wanted a local area and the campo this was on was very lively each day and night.

The apartment had air but we never needed it. Even though the days were hot mid-afternoon, the nights were pleasantly cool - perfect sleeping weather.

The apartment had everything we needed or could want - dish washer, washing machine, full-size stove, 3 decks, CD player, Satellite TV, was beautifully but comfortably furnished - felt like home, and the location was perfect.

Wanderer-
I will be in Venice for 4 days as a part of my month in Italy (departing this Friday).
Thank you for SO much USEFUL information. Did you happen to nite anywhere I might be able to get tickets to a ballet IF there is a Ballet in performance while my husband and I are there?
And a big AMEN to a repreive from Stressful jobs and time spent "together".
Where did you buy the Vaperetto pass? Will we encounter enroute?
Nan

To Tom: BINGO !!!

Hi Tom and Holly, IMO one has to have a pretty dull life to get into a hissy fit over whether someone else orders bottled water or not, LOL.

nycfs - Not a bit. Totally expect to be ripped apart by you when I post my report in October.

To qoute one of the Malachi brothers "Let the pigioens (sp?)loose"

Tom

Thanks for that info on the church card. I'll see how many on the list I plan to visit.