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Just Back from Venice, Como & Milan

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Old Feb 9th, 2006, 12:07 PM
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Just Back from Venice, Como & Milan

Hi, I just got home two days ago from Italy. I had a great time. My husband was going to pretravel before working the Olympics in Torino. The day before he left, I decided to join him. I found great airfare on Expedia.com ($425) to Venice (changing in Amsterdam) and coming home from Milan (also changing in Amsterdam). I flew KLM and I can't say enough how wonderful that airline was. We all have our own personal TV screens and could watch free movies or some current TV shows. They fed us alot and it was good. They even gave us wine and drinks for free.

First Venice. We stayed at the Ca' Angeli, a small bed and breakfast on the Grand Canal. It was a very nice place. The room they gave us though while it had a cathedral ceiling and a wonderful terrace (no view however), there was only 2 feet from the bed to the wall. We had an armoire and a small refrigerator and TV. The room was too small for us, especially with my husband's luggage. They were able to move us to a much larger room for 3 of the 4 nights. It was twice the size and we were able to spread out. The Ca' Angeli was a lovely bed and breakfast, and if you decide to stay there, reserve a front room with a view of the Grand Canal. They also served an adequate buffet breakfast.

We rented a car and went to Como. We were kind of disappointed because we thought Como would be a lot quainter than it is. We used it as our home base for a trip to Bellagio, Verrena and Bergamo. I didn't like the drive from Como to Bellagio because it was narrow hairpin turns and when you had oncoming traffic, you had inches to spare! The Italians drive very fast and tend to tailgate. We stayed at the Hotel Metropole Suisse in Como. I was disappointed in the hotel. Part of it was our fault. My husband didn't email them to let them know I was joining him (he assumed he had a large bed). Apparently the room they were giving him only had a small bed. I was told they were pretty booked because of some event, and gave us a room. When I saw the room I was very disappointed. It looked very dated, there were a few small cracks in the bathroom tile, and it could have used some regrouting in spots. Right down the hall from our room there was a sheet shutting off the rest of the hallway. I asked the night manager if they were renovating and he said yes. If fact, they did have some renovated rooms already. I asked if we could be moved to a nicer room, but was told there weren't any available. I found the service to be courteous by some, but not very friendly from one manager. When I asked him for information on the ferry across the street from the hotel, he told me to go outside and turn right. Turn right and what?? Apparently there was a tourist office there. I couldn't believe that the hotel didn't have their own ferry maps for the guests. Maybe he just didn't want to be bothered. If you decide the stay there, please request a renovated room.

Milan was our last stop. My husband made reservations at the Hotel Grand Verdi. It doesn't look impressive on the outside, but our room was the nicest and largest I have ever had. It was kind of chic Milan contemporary. We had a huge room, with a king bed, a desk and chair, and banquet and table, a sofa and a walk in closet. The bathroom was also large with a nice deep tub. There was an armoire with a safe and refrigerator. They provided very nice toiletries and slippers. Breakfast was a wonderful buffet with sparkling wine and cappucinos. The most important thing was the staff. Everyone was so nice and friendly. They made some nice dinner suggestions for us. They were so very kind. The hotel is located between the commercial and financial districts and about a 7 minute walk to the train. I can't recommend this hotel enough.
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Old Feb 9th, 2006, 12:15 PM
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Oh, by the way, if you are planning to go to Milan, please reserve a ticket to see The Last Supper way in advance. I called many times (even asked two of the hotels to call for me), and even showed up at the museum to see if there were any cancellations, but couldn't get in to see the painting. They were fully booked for days.
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Old Feb 11th, 2006, 12:15 PM
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Hi---this may be the hotel I've been trying to find; it looks like they have triple rooms, which we will need withour teenage daughter. When you say 7 minutes walk to the train, is that to Milano Centrale, the main station? Thanks.
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Old Feb 11th, 2006, 02:12 PM
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Hi. The hotel is located near a subway stop called Gioja. the hotel doesn't look very far from the Stazione Centrale, according to my map. We bought a two day unlimited pass and used the subways a lot. It was very inexpensive and easy to get around. They have a green line and a red line. We walked to the subway and took a train to a certain stop and switch for the other line to get to the Milan Duomo and other places.

I was very pleased with The Grand Verdi Hotel. The reception staff were the kindest and most helpful I found in my stay in Italy. I wish I remembered all their names. Donatella was very sweet. They also made restaurant suggestions for us. We actually went to a Chinese restaurant one night (we noticed an Asian area)and had a nice meal. We just wanted a change from Italian food.

The rooms in the hotel are huge. We had a king bed, a sofa bed, a banquet and table, a desk and chair, armoire with a refrigerator and a safe. There were slippers to use by the bed, which was a nice touch. We had a walk in closet with shelves and a mirror. The bathroom had a large deep tub, which is great to soak your feet after being on them for so many hours.

don't forget to reserve your tickets to the Last Supper and remember a lot of places close in the afternoon for several hours, so plan accordingly. We went to an area that is kind of bohemian, but couldn't enjoy it because all the shops were closed and wouldn't open for awhile. I hope I was helpful. Enjoy your stay, Lisa
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Old Feb 11th, 2006, 04:34 PM
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Thank you so much, Lisa. This helps a lot---until I read your post, I was not happy about having to spend a night in Milan before our flight home. But I think we'll like this hotel--it sounds perfect. A pleasant staff makes all the difference!
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Old Feb 11th, 2006, 04:57 PM
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When you go to Milan, don't forget to visit the Duomo. It is incredible. Take the elevator to the top of the Duomo and spend some time climbing the roof and soaking up the sights of Milan.
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 03:47 AM
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Where is the rest of your report, darling? I would be interested in hearing about the fabulous restaurants that you dined in, the stores you shopped in, some of the museums you visited. What about the fashions in Milano? How were people dressed? Details, sweetie, I want details.

Love you, hate your shoes.
John G.
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 05:15 AM
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Dear John, Well we spent two nights in Milan and ate one night at a restaurant called Stendahl's. It was very enjoyable. They served us first a glass of sparkling wine on the house, which was a nice touch. I had a first course of pasta with rock lobster in a tomato sauce. yumm! My second plate was a filet of beef with a light sauce and sauted articokes. I enjoyed it very much. The waiter was very funny, and I must have consumed half of bottle of a nice white wine. My husband and I finished our meals with sharing a tiramisu and cappuccinos. I know from what I have read that most Italians don't drink cappuccinos after dinner, but who cares? That is what I like. We also ate Chinese the other night. Yes, Chinese. On the way to our hotel we noticed a small asian area of restaurants. My husband is Chinese and we always seem to gravitate to an "Chinatown" in many foreign places. He really had a hankering for something different to eat since he would be eating Italian food for six weeks (He is in Turino right now). The Chinese restaurant the hotel recommended hit the spot.

As for shopping, I really didn't do any. I went into Prada looking for a gift for my soon to be 21 year old daugher and gagged at the prices. To be honest, I don't know if the prices in Milan are any cheaper than in New York, where I live. I am not a Prada, Fendi kind of person. I do most of my shopping at TJ Maxx and Marshalls! Even a Prada key chain was 125 euros. Does anyone know if it is less expensive to buy in Italy or at home?? Well, as for shoes, I didn't buy any (I had an unfortunate buying situation 23 years ago in Florence where I bought many pairs of shoes that felt fine in the store and hurt like hell back home. I ended up wearing a pair of Merrells the whole time away. Not very attractive, but incredibly comfortable, especially being on your feet the entire day! I don't know how the Italian women do it wearing shoes with heels on those cobblestone streets.
I actually dressed very simply, wearing black pants or jeans and brought with me several nice sweaters. I dressed it up with scarves, which is the Italian way. I don't think I could have passed for a native, but for someone who decided to go to Milan with 24 hour notice, I didn't do so bad. I certainly wasn't a fashion plate.

As for museums, my biggest disappointment was not being able to get into see The Last Supper. There were just no tickets available. We were there for a Sunday and a Monday. (The Museum is closed on Mondays. Sunday was booked solid. I tried calling several times to check for cancellations, I asked my hotels in Como and Milan to ask for me (thinking they might have an in) and I even took the subway to the museum to ask in person. I was turned away and devastated. I just spoke to my husband who is now working in Turino, and he told me a coworker was at the museum almost the same time we were trying to get in and was told there were no tickets available. He luckily though was told by the person to check with a scalper who was outside. He was able to buy a ticket at face value. I wish I had known about that. The person who I talked to said to me that if there was something she could do for me she would. She never mentioned scalpers and it never cross my mind . Oh well.

We spent most of our time in the Duomo and climbing the roofline, where the views are fantastic. There was a big art exhibition by the Duomo by Carraveggio (please excuse my spelling), but it was the last day of the exhibit, it was 5PM (closing at 7PM) and at least 150 people waiting on line in the cold. I was told it might be at least an hour and a half to get in. We also had a very expensive lunch in the Galleria at a place called Biffy's. It was very expensive and normally I wouldn't have eaten there, but another place was already closed for lunch and we were too tired to start looking around. It did cost us 70 Euros, which I think is outrageous.

We went to La Scala and toured the Opera museum and saw the inside of the Opera House from a box. It was beautiful. I just wish the big chandelair was lit up. While waiting for La Scala to open we found a nice wine/coffee/sandwich place where local working people have lunch. There were other places, but the patrons where wearing suits, so obviously much more expensive. I had a glass of wine standing at the counter to avoid cover charges. That is what a lot of locals do.

I wanted to visit an area that is bohemian with a canal, but I can't remember the name of the location. The canal was all dried up and construction is being worked on it. We went to the area at a bad time, as it was afternoon and all the places were shuttered tight. We didn't feel like waiting around for everything to open, so we kind of wasted our time going there. Actually I think that area would appeal to a much younger person than myself anyway.

Lastly, we realized we never saw Pecks, the gourmet store near the Duomo, so we went back and spent some time oggling all the goodies. I wish we had something that nice where I live. Of course everything there was very expensive. A lot of well heeled Milanos where dinner shopping. It is an incredible store, and a treat for the eyes. We would see the huge kitchen off the back where everything is made. It is an immaculate place, and I only wish they gave out samples!

After dinner that night I zipped up my suitcase and got ready to leave because I had a 6:30AM flight out of Milan. We figured we needed a wakeup call at 4AM! Everything went smoothly and we driving to the airport with our rented car until I noticed we arrived very quickly to a small airport. I said to my husband, something not right. You took me to the wrong airport (Linate) and I am leaving out of Marispol. Well, with some fast driving (Italian style) we made it in time for my husband to drop me off. My flight was actually the first one out fo the airport! As unhappy as I was with leaving so early, getting little sleep and missing the wonderful breakfast my hotel offered, I had a layover in Amsterdam. I took advantage of that, found the train in the airport (20 minute ride to the city and about 8 Euros roundtrip) and booked an hourlong canal boat trip to see the Amsterdam area. I got there at 9:30AM for a 10 AM boat ride, but the boat only left at 10:30, which I couldn't figure out why they leave a half hour from the printed schedule. After the boat ride I wanted to see Anne Frank's house, and started walking, but after awhile I got nervous that it was too far to walk to and from and see the place, and get back in time to check in at the airport. So I decided to walk around a little, went into a coffeshop to see the kind of places that sell marijuana. I didn't have any by the way. I wanted all my senses to get back to the airport!!

Well that was some of my experiences in Milan. I also was in Venice, Como, Bellagio, Verenna, Bergamo.
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 05:23 AM
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Dear John, I forgot to mention, that people for the most part dressed very nicely in Milan. I noticed a lot of people especially older women wearing a lot of fur, which is kind of a no no in New York. There is definitely a Eurpopean style of dressing.

When I left for Italy I needed a haircut and color very badly. It didn't even cross my mind to get my hair done in Milan. It would have been an experience. I really didn't have the time to waste, since we were there for such a short time. Regards, Lisa
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 12:53 PM
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Hi Lisa, sure enjoyed your trip report, and good for you for making a last minute decision. Yes fur is popular in N Italy. BTW, if, or I should say when, you get back to Italy do have your hair taken care of in a beauty salon. I have always had the best haircuts and coloring in Italy. Wish I could fly to Italy once a month for a beauty salon appointment.

That must have been panic time, arriving at Linate rather than Malpensa. Glad you made your fight on time. Thanks again for sharing your trip.
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 01:54 PM
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Dear LoveItaly, Only my husband! His navigation system is wonderful, but it did have its glitches. We were in Verena and decided to go to Bergamo. We were trying to follow the navigation's directions and my husband took a road that lead up a narrow road on a mountain. We got to a point where the road ended and there was only dirt and rocks. I kept telling him that it was not a road, but he kept insisting it was. Well the dirt road turned to a sharply inclined snow covered road and ended abruptly. There was no place to turn around. We spent about a half an hour trying to back down this narrow mountain, getting stuck in the snow! He kept fowarding and reversing with the stick shift (I don't know how to drive one) with this brand new fiat. I was afraid we would slide off the mountain!! I thought I would have to walk down the mountain until I reached a town and try to get some help. Finally he was able to get some traction and reached a point to turn the car around. He almost gave me a heart attack. He told me afterwards that the view on his driver's side was VERY scary. There was little room for error.

We had a similar experience last year outside of Montipuciano on a country road. He pulled over for the second on the side of the road and our rental car (a gorgeous mercedes which we lucked into for the price of a small car) sunk into the mud. We couldn't get the car out. A lovely lady from the Netherlands who is now a native stop her car adn told us she would get us help. Within the hour we saw a man driving a tractor down the road. He was from a vineyard and came to help pull us out of the mud. It is one of the funniest and greatest memories we have of Tuscany. I made sure we have pictures to remember it by. These are the stories that make me smile. We were on the way to Fiesole to the Penscione Bencista. (great place, by the way) When we got there one of the owners got out a hose and helped us get off the mud!! Great memories.
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 02:29 PM
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Oh gads Lisa, your husband sounds like the kind of driver my late husband was, LOL. I can't tell you how many "heart attacks" I had in Italy. And I am one that sort of gets panicky when on narrow mountain type roads with steep cliffs. You have my sympathy!! My DH was one of the few that thought driving along the AC was "fun"..yikes!!!

Any chance you can fly back to Italy to meet up with your DH after the Olympics are over so that you can have a few more days in Italy?
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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 03:16 PM
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Thank you, sweetie. My mother and I also enjoy cappuccinos at various times of the day. I couldn't care less what is appropriate.

I just love Pecks. I bought some fruit jam there once for an English friend and she didn't like it. Well, I cursed that b*tch for a good month.

As for Prada, I fall to pieces when I walk into the store on 5th Avenue. (I lived in Manhattan for years--I worked in the frock trade.) You just missed the January saldis in Italy. You may have found yourself a bargain.

Cheers, darling.

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Old Feb 12th, 2006, 03:18 PM
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Actually I am going to Rome in two weeks. We are hopefully meeting in the Rome Airport, if he makes his plane. That was our original plans. The beginning trip of Venice, Como and Milan was a less than 24 hour decision on my part to join him (he made his own plans and was pretraveling) because I was jealous. I decided I'd rather be in Italy than at home working, food shopping and cooking for my teenage daughters. He made his hotel reservations through trip adviser information, not bad choices, and had purchased two Dk Eyewitness books for reference. I literally had no research at all about this trip, and was winging it. In Venice, the bed and breakfast had several guide books in the living room, so I spent some time reading to get some information.

I am looking foward to going back to Rome, and just want to make sure I get a decent room at the Albergo Del Senato (I was told to definitely get the view over the size of the room) and try to figure out what tours we should take. If I know my husband, and I know him, he'll rely on me to pick all the restaurants. This time, thank god, we won't have a car.

If anyone is reading my post, please let me know what places are best taking a tour and your favorite companies. Believe it, but I have never taken a tour on vacation before, and I think that was always a mistake. It is nice to know what you are looking at. I am not an artsy intellectual, but I do enjoy looking at art. I am not at all familiar with many of the great Italian Catholic artists, but can appreciate the beauty. The Vatican will be new to me also. I am also not too familiar with that because I am not Catholic. I was in Rome 23 years ago and my experience with the Vatican was standing in the square and seeing the Pope at a window from a huge distance away.

Also, it is cheaper to buy in Italy something I can get from a store in New York? I wasn't sure with the dollar being so bad. Everything seemed so expensive.

I am looking forward to good food, wine and gorgeous sites and getting away from all this snow! Regards, Lisa
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