Just back from two weeks in Italy
 

(If this posting comes up twice, blame it on Fodor!) <BR>Just returned from a two-week trip of a lifetime to Italy, and first I want to thank all those dozens of you whose suggestions and tips I read on the Forum, made notes on and/or took with us. They all certainly made our trip easier and definitely more memorable! So, thank you, thank you, thank you. Now for a few tips and observations from us for whatever they're worth. If you have any questions, fire away. <BR>1. I'll strongly iterate that ATMs are the way to go. We got 1,936 lire to the dollar, which I believe was more than the official rate. The larger banks' ATMs are in English. If you come across one that isn't and you can't understand it, just press the "Annulla" button and go to another bank! We took "just in case" travelers checks and came home with all of them. <BR>2. Rome is wonderful even in the rain! We had rain part of every day in Rome, but it didn't stop us. If you don't bring an umbrella, don't worry, there are umbrella vendors everywhere as soon as the first drop falls! <BR>3. The Metro in Rome is simple to use and is safer than the buses. We encountered very few gypsies or other supposedly dangerous types and never felt in danger or threatened. <BR>4. There is still scaffolding in Rome. For example,the Trevi Fountain is covered scaffolding, as is Piazza Navona. Not being able to see those two sites in their full beauty (which were on our A list) was our only disappointment. As my wife said, "If you toss a coin into Trevi Fountain, you'd hit a workman!" All the scaffolding is supposed to be down by Christmas. We don't see how that could possibly be done! <BR>5. The Vatican is awesome! As for the museum and again quoting my wife (hey, she's witty): "The Vatican kept the good stuff!" <BR>St. Peter's and the Sistine Chapel were as magnificent as expected. The Pieta literally brought tears to our eyes. Incidentally, the Vatican Museum was the only place on our trip where we had to wait in line, and then for only about 15 minutes before it opened in the morning. There is always a line at the Vatican Museum apparently. <BR>6. In general, we just ate where we happened to be throughout the trip! (We scrupulously avoided any place that had a sign saying "Tourist menu," whether in English or Italian!) Lunches were really inexpensive. We usually had those at a snack bar or gasteria, or whatever, and never cost more than $10-12 for the two of us. Usually we were the only non-Italians in the place. Our best meal in Rome was in the Ghetto on Via del Porticao D'Ottavia 16 and was appropriately named "Al 16 Del Portico D'Ottavia." We tried to find small places patronized by the locals for our main meals. <BR>7. Everyone talks about the gelato, which is wonderful. But, we got to love the Italian pastries even more! We'd often just stop in a pastry shop mid-afternoon for a pastry and cappucino! <BR>8. We spent two days with a couple Italian friends who took us to Pompeii and the Amalfi coast. Pompeii is something very special and definitely one of the highlights of the trip. Our friends arranged for a private guide, which is the way to do it! The Amalfi coast is as beautiful as the postcards and travelogues show! <BR>9. Florence--two days is not enough time. We felt we really didn't totally experience the city. The Uffizi is wonderful, as anticipated. You do NOT need reservations this time of the year. The only time there is a line is before it opens in the morning, and the line isn't that long. Our favorites were the Botticellis. But, there is much to savor and cherish. Then, there's the David at the Academia--it's everything we heard it was! And, they allow flash photoprahy of the David. As a photographer of sorts, I was also drawn to the exterior of the Duomo in Florence as if it was a magnet! <BR>10. And finally, Venice. From the moment we stepped out of the railroad station and saw the Grand Canal we were hooked! It is an all-consuming experience, and we loved, cherished every moment in the city, as we roamed the streets, crossed the bridges and kept getting lost in this maze. And, the unique glow from the sun (some say it's caused by the pollution!) led us to call it "Monet's sun." We could see why so much of his great work was done here! St. Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace are certainly impressive and must-sees. Venice is a photographer's paradise. Every corner you turn, every bridge you cross is a photo op! <BR>11. And lastly, the Italian people. They're wonderful! We're definitely going back!

Sounds like a great trip! Loved your description of "Monet's sun" in Venice! <BR> <BR>Where did you stay in Rome and in Venice? Do you recommend it? Did you travel by train? How was it? <BR> <BR>If you are planning a return trip, consider the Umbria Region; Assisi is breathtaking!

Howard, <BR> <BR>Thank you, thank you for your wonderful travelogue. It's such a pleasure to read not only "the facts", but also your impressions. It brought back so many of my own! <BR> <BR>I also loved Pompeii but didn't use a private guide (I certainly will the next time). <BR> <BR>Like you, I was also hooked on Venice from the moment I stepped out of the train station (1 of 3 literally breathtaking moments in Europe) - and the light is addictive... <BR> <BR>As the previoius mesage said, I would really like to know where you stayed in the various cities. <BR> <BR>Thanks again for taking the time to give us feedback... <BR> <BR>Dona

Howard, <BR> <BR>Thanks for the fabulous, well-written trip report! We, who have not traveled to Italy, can do so vicariously!!!

First of all, as a general response, to me, one of the great joys of traveling is to be able to share the experiences in photographs and words (both written and printed). <BR>In response to Maira, we booked our trip thru American Express, taking what they call its "Independent Tour," which means all you get are the hotels (with continental breakfasts), train tickets, the obligatory half-day tour in each city (Rome, Florence and Venice) and transportation to and from the overseas airports. (Delta offers the same package. The only difference is that we used frequent flyer miles for the air tickets, which is "allowed" if you book thru Amex.) You're on your own for the rest. We specifically wanted the "minimum." We did not want a preplanned tour and certainly didn't want to travel everywhere by bus. They call ours a 10-day tour. We went three extra days earlier to Rome, staying at the same hotel as Amex booked. We stayed near railroad stations in all cities, and despite what you may have heard, all the areas around the stations where we stayed were perfectly safe. There is an obvious advantage to staying near stations, as you can easily walk to the hotels when you arrive. Here are the names: <BR>* The Rex Hotel in Rome (at Via Torino 149). That was our favorite because of a wonderfully attentive and friendly staff (and a great shower!). <BR>* Hotel Bellini in Venice (at 16 Lista di Spagna), located right on the Grand Canal a short walk from the station and one of only three bridges crossing the Grand Canal. It's a former 100-room palace. <BR>Both hotels were very, very close to public transportation (both the Metro and buses in Rome and the vaporetto in Venice). In terms of getting around all the cities, the locations were definitely convenient. Considering the price we paid for the entire package, I would say the hotels probably cost in the neighborhood of $150 a night. <BR>After this trip, we are definite believers in train travel, especially since the reservations and all were taken care of for us! Seriously, the trains are comfortable and reliable. If they start off late, they make up the time! Every time I walked out of our compartment and into the train corridor, I felt like I was in foreign film! <BR>Dona, I like your description of the Venice sun as "addictive." Perfect word! <BR>And, yes, we do plan to go back, including both Umbria and Tuscany on the next trip, which leads to another observation: <BR>Before we left on the trip, we came to two conclusions--1. We couldn't possibly see everything. 2. We were going to take time--stop, if necessary--to soak in the culture of the country and its people...and we did!

Hi Howard thank you for sharing your wonderful trip and your sense of humor, <BR>this site is absolutely great and it is a great feeling to realize that people can help each other, and that we are happy because you both had a great trip. <BR>I agree with your attitude: see and enjoy what you sensibly can, the rest for next trip .... I am so pleased that you like Italy and Italians. Graziella.