just back from SUNNY Ireland
 

Just got back from our first trip to Ireland. The weather was great, a couple sprinkles, but sunny everyday (except for the day we left...I tried to tell them that they should take up a collection to keep us in Ireland because we brought the sunshine). Maybe it was praying to all the Irish Saints or rubbing those old relics and stone, anyway it was wonderful. Best suggestion, keep a journal (our joint effort is about 300 pages in a small notebook), one day back and I'm already mixing up sights and towns. Our hope was to hear great music, enjoy some of that craic that everyone talks about, see ancient ruins, be immersed in history, and indulge ourselves in Irish beer and whiskey...and we did (plus we somehow ended up with 2 more pieces of stuffed luggage). By the way this is Sue reporting for the two of us. We chose Ireland because of Chip's heritage (even though it goes pretty far back) and our love of the music. Chip actually sings in a local "Irish" band, so most of our tour centered around music. After months of preparing, reading, researching we could of done a few things better, but it was a grand trip and (to use an Irishism that we often heard) tanks a million to all those on this site that gave their input. (I also love to hear the Irish say tree tirty,3:30...don't know why?).
Day 1-We flew into Dublin, picked up our Sixt rental car, automatic Peugot. After folding in our side mirrors we were off, on the left, and soon through our first of many roundabouts. Chip did all the driving and I did all the screaming...navigating. We did bring the car back without a scratch! Our first stop was the Bru na Boine Centre to visit Newgrange and Knowth. We purchase the Heritage Card which gets you into several sights all over Ireland, a good value and an informative booklet. There is a film, museum, shop, and cafe at the center and you take busses to the sights. Both are interesting but we felt that if you did't have time, see Newgrange. The bus driver commented on the sunny day, "There's the sun guys-get your camera and take a picture-it might not last." The Irish make clever comments about the weather and almost everything else too. We listened to that old Irish favorite "The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down" over the bus radio on the way to the ancient sight of Newgrange. The driver must have really liked it cause he turned it up loud! Newgrange is very impressive, going inside is a tight squeeze-claustrophobes need not apply-but the simulation of the winter solstice coming into the pitch black interior is very cool. Believe everyone on this site when they say traveling is slow. We decided to forgo any futher siteseeing and head for Trim, and our first night's B&B, Brogans. Good idea because a traffic jam in Navan really slowed us down. We wondered what would happen in a big town (we found out later!) Got to the B&B, mostly by accident. The Irish aren't fond of street signs, and most directions begin with, "go down the street to the first pub...". Our friendly hostess, Geraldine, suggested Franzini O'Briens for dinner and it was very good as was our first Guiness. Trim Castle was right there, so we walked around after dinner. Note: we're not 12 hours in and we've almost filled one memory stick on the digital camera (further note: on the way home we met a couple who found camera shops on the way that would download camera onto disks-now they tell us). We were informed that we were in luck because Brogan's had live music in the the pub starting at 10. Unfortunately what they say about "on Irish time" is true and at a quarter to 11, the musician was still enjoying his pint and did't look in a hurry. It had been a long plane trip, intense first day of driving on tiny roads on the left for the first time, so we called it a night. A note about Brogan's, the rooms have a lot in common with the roads. Our first "full Irish breakfast" consisted of fried eggs, bacon (what I'd call ham), sausage (also a little different), half of a small tomato-fried, toast, brown bread, juice, coffee/tea, and cereals were available if you wanted them. Most other breakfasts were the same, except some included the famous black and white pudding (small little, SPAM like fried patties...they are the same, I think, but the black one has blood mixed in?). Day 2- Got an early start with directions from Geraldine to The Hill of Tara. It was definately the back way, weeds brushing both sides of our tiny car (welcome to Ireland)! We got there early and slipped through two unique gate openings, one iron and one stone. We were able to have a quiet reflective moment alone on Tara, except for the sheep. Next on to Tullomore for Chip's personal pilgramage, in search of the dew (whiskey). On to Clonmacnois and some famous high crosses. Saw our first county sign informing us on how many people have died on the roads in Meath -36. If I remember correctly, Cork's was almost 3X this. On to Galway, started seeing those famous stone fences. A hurling match was on the radio, on about almost every station that we could tune into. Kind of hard to listen to, especially when you wouldn't know what was going on if you could see it (note: still had trouble when we did see it on the "telly"). Got into Galway in time to see what must have been every resident and tourist out walking about in the sunshine. After two stops for directions, we made it to Jury's; great location, nice view of the Corrib as it flows into Galway Bay, but noisy outside all night and watch that parking garage, it has multi-colored paint marks around each corner for a reason. Made it to Galway's cathedral-by taxi-just in time for 6pm Mass. It was beautiful. The "Our Father" was in Gaelic. But just like the states, out in under 45min. on a Sat. Dinner at Busker Brown's, good. Found many pubs with music, but they were all packed, so we picked one and shoehorned our way in and found a spot near the music. Music was definately secondary to this crowd. Watched an amusing street performer. Strolled the crowded, pedestrian only streets and by the riverwalk...which did look a little questionably. One of the few places with trash and groups of young people that didn't look too friendly, it didn't look too safe so we didn't linger. Back to Jury's for a not so peaceful night's sleep. More to come...

sorry...I got carried away,next report much shorter!

Hi Sue, nice report so far. If you can, a paragraph break here and there would relieve my eye strain. I'm such a whiner!

Bill

I was very interested in your report....Please tell me what Jury's you are referring to. We are spending our first night in Jury's Ballsbridge in Dublin. Did you have any problems? Also, what attractions did you use the Heritage card at and how much did it cost? We leave Friday...dying to hear the rest of your report and I hope the sun is still shining when we get there.

I was wanting to know how your dealings with Sixt went as I have booked them also for the first time. I usually go with Dooley but prices were much too high. Anyso, sounds like a wonderful trip. I'm sure a lot of people will enjoy reading your report.

Good report so far.

Chicagokris, Sue and Chip have likely used up all of the sunshine for the summer!

Funny you should say that about "tree-tirty" ... my mother, who was from Roscommon, did the opposite. She couldn't say a simple beginning "tr" sound to save her life; she always inserted an 'h'. Thrailer, throuble, thrip, etc.

When I was a teenager, I used to give her hell about curfew; she would tell me to be back by a certain time because she "didn't thrust me out late at night." Smartass that I was, I always used to say, "Well, I should certainly hope not, you're my mother!"

BTW, my cousin is a radio disc-jockey in rural Ireland who does a show of American country music. She once told me that "The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down" is one of the most-requested songs on her playlist. She says it's popular because it is reminiscent of Irish songs about the famine.

chicagokris, we stayed at the Jury's in Galway. Basic American style hotel. Staff wasn't very informative and our room with a nice view was very noisey, but on the other hand it was a easy location to walk the town. the heritage card was a great deal for us because we traveled around a lot and really enjoy historic sites. I just figured it up and the card cost 20 Euros and without the card it would have been over 65 Euros (a savings of 90Euros for 2!), plus if you show the card at some places like Powerscourt, which is private, they gave us a discount! It covers 23 counties and many major sites like Charles Fort in Kinsale, Kilmaniham Gaol in Dublin, Muckross House/gardens/farm in Killarney, Jerpoint Abbey and Kilkenny Castle in Kilkenny, Bru na Boinne Centre/Hill to Tara in Meath, Clonmacnoise in Offaly, Rock of Cashel , Cahir Castle, and Swiss House in Tipperary, Glendalough in Wicklow.
Keenan, Sixt was great for us, in and out easy and quick. we did use our mastercard for ins., but added 0 deductable...even tho we did return the car without a scratch!

Day 3-After having our own European Vacation roundabout moment, "Look Chip, Spanish Arch, Jury's", we ignored the signs and somehow found our way out of Galway on on to the Connemara via N59. The landscape really changed, it started getting very rocky and we saw more pine trees. We crossed the "Quiet Man Bridge". Sheep alert. After seeing many sheep on the hillsides, we got our first of many sheep on and near the road. They spray paint big spots on the sheep; turquoise, purple, red, green, blue, and we even saw red, white, and blue sheep! First destination was Roundstone Music. Arrived in this quaint port town early. Stopped at the only open shop just in time for fresh, warm scones and brown bread baked by a local. Nothing like a fresh scone in the morning sunshine by the water's edge.
I got a nice picture of pastel buildings with the multicolored doors. Shopped at Roundstone, a little disappointed that the maker was not in on Sundays. After buying a decorated bodhran for me and shipping one home for a friend, we continued our trip along the coast to Clifden. The rocky coastal drive is beautiful, and slow going. By the time we got to Clifden, which was very crowded, we decided to keep on going. We wanted to stop and view Kylemore Abbey. We waited in the parking lot for 10 min to find a spot, only to find our that the best photo spot was actually just over the bridge... this is the famous picture you see everywhere. Unless you pay the 8 Euros to view inside, which we didn't want to do, you get an obstructed view...go across the bridge for best-free view.
To get to our next destination we had to select an upper or lower route. We thought that the upper looked better, but unfortunately we have a nack for picking the less traveled road everywhere. It was scenic but very intense driving.
We did get to see bogs, with stacked fresh peat, which we have enjoyed smelling along the way. Chip even went for a short soggy walk.
Cong=Tourist trap/circular parkinglot mess. I must confess that I did jump out and take a picture of the "Quiet Man Cottage" and Abbey as Chip circled aroung the one-way town.
Chip had to do a turn around to get a photo of a street sign with a family name on it. In his excitement, yes we were on the right, I mean wrong side of the road. This was the one and only time this happened.
We traveled down a tunnel of trees to reach Cregg Castle, one of our favorite B&B's. We were met by AnnMarie and 3 of her many dogs. It is a beautiful peaceful setting especially with trad. Irish music in the air. After a nice dinner at the Abbey Rest. and a stop at an Abbey along the road (with no tourists!) we returned for a wonderful evening of craic and music with our hosts and other guests...and a sheep parade. Pat(pipes/whistles) and AnnMarie(bodhran) are professional musicians who often entertain their guests with an evening session by the fireside in the most wonderful sink-down-in couches. Another guest got out his guitar and we listened to and talked about music till quite late. Go to Cregg Castle!

Enjoing the writing style. I agree with wojazz3 and would like to see more breaks for these old eyes! Keep it comming. I am waiting for the part where Chip joined the music! Did it ever happen? Did you make it over to Doolin?

John

bmw-I'll try to be better...I'm just so excited. Doolin is next. Doolin and Dingle were my favorites, probably because of the great music and fun people that we met there. Yes, Chip joined in a couple times...it was a little harder because he is primarily a singer and sometimes bodhran player(but not as confident around all the great players in Ireland). Sometimes the music was a performance, sometimes it was a traditional session which has certain rules of joining in, and sometimes it was less formal sing-along. He really enjoyed picking up new tunes, hearing all the regional differences, and talking to musicians. We also came home with about 15 new CD's, mostly from local groups.
Note: Biggest regret is not getting all the names and addresses of the great people that we met.
Best idea, keeping a journal.

Thanks for the great report! Have been waiting for it and it's fun to read.
You MUST return to explore Conor Pass.
Did you ever get to Carrigeen Castle and, if so, how was Paige? Glad you had a wonderful and SUNNY trip!