Just Back from Spain
 

Hi Folks, <BR> <BR>I'm just back from three glorious weeks in Spain -- Ronda, Cordoba, Barcelona, Madrid, Toledo, Pontevedra and Santiago de Compostella. Can I help anybody plan a trip to any of these (or other) cities in Spain? <BR>Bobby

Hi BobbyG! <BR>We are planning a trip to Spain for late July in order to attend our friends' wedding and do some sightseeing. We will be in Madrid and also wish to go to the Basque Region. What were your experiences in Madrid? <BR>Where did you stay and what were your favorite experiences there? Thanks for your help!

Did you stay in Toledo? If so, was <BR>it a reasonably priced hotel? <BR>Thanks Greg

My friend and I are going to Barcelona in late August to early September. We are in our mid-twenties. Can you reccomend good beaches to visit and (if you don't mind) some good restaurants (not cheesy-touristy) to try? Thank you.

Hansel: Madrid is excellent. If you're interested in art, there's no other city in Europe (not even Paris) that will keep you so busy. Madrid has three world-class art museums -- the Prado, the Thyssen-Bournemiza and the Reina Sofia. That apart, there's plenty of historical sites of interest. For fun-lovers, Madrid has an energetic, exciting nightlife, with literally hundreds of great bars, most of them in and around the old city. <BR>My wife and I love just walking around the old city, through narrow, cobbled streets, chancing upon pretty little plazas, with cafes and bars. We also love soccer, and watching Real Madrid club play is a special thrill. <BR>I'll be happy to answer more specifc questions: what, specifically, are you looking for in Madrid? <BR> <BR>Greg: We stayed at the Pintor El Greco hotel It cost around $90 a night. It's worth every cent. Great service, big rooms, lovely decor and a terrific location. We'll certainly go back. <BR> <BR>Scooter: We didn't go to any beaches, I'm afraid. For meals, we tended to bar-hop for the tapas (snacks). Our favorite: Qu Qu on Passeig Garcia. <BR> <BR>Have fun in Spain -- I know you will. <BR>Bobby

I agree with Greg - the hotel Pintor El Greco is great! We found it to be a great deal and very comfortable.

Bobby G.:My wife and Iare going to Spain for two weeks in mid October and I have trying to figure out an itinerary.Were arriving to Madrid on Fiday AM. I'm a soccer (futbol) nut and want to see Barcelona and Real de Madrid play. I thought we would stay in Madrid three days and visit Seville, Cordoba and Granada for three days and then go to Barcelona the second week end. Some of my questions bus or train travel? How can get a soccer schedule for late this year? Are we trying to see too much? Thanks for any comments!

Bobby G: <BR> <BR>Heading to Barcelona in late-March and we welcome any recommendations you have on hotels/restaurants/must sees. Also, reading a lot of posts of petty crime in Spain. Is it really that bad? <BR> <BR>Thanks for all advice.

Bobby G--- where did you stayed in Santiago? How you liked it? What kind of transportation did you use throughtout the trip? Isn't Spain a dream destination? <BR> <BR>Carl--- I think that you are trying to do too much in two weeks. Invariably, first-time Spain visitors soon realize that Spain is worth another visit, so knowing that, plan accordingly ahead of time. In opther words concentrate in two major cities this time. Say, one week Madrid and environs (Segovia-Toledo-Avila) and the second week Barcelona (Montserrat-Tarragona). Andalucia is worth at least 8-10 days minimum. I wouldn't even try to do Seville-Cordova-Granada in three days. Not fair neither to you, nor the destination(s). Train travel on Madrid and Barcelona is very convenient. October is a perfect time to visit Spain. Enjoy the planning and the visit!!

Hi folks. <BR> <BR>Carl: The Spanish First Division games are usually held on Sunday afternoons, so try and make sure you're in Madrid and Barcelona on Sundays. Of course, there's a possibility that the teams will be playing away games on the days when you're in their town. The Liga schedule for 2000-2001 should be available by the end of July. USA Today's website usually carries the schedule. <BR>As to transport: the AVE high-speed train from Madrid to Seville is excellent. It takes around 2 hours. From Seville, I'd recommend you take buses to Cordoba and Granada. Alsina Graells, a bus operator, runs an extensive fleet in Andalucia. The buses are comfortable, the services reliable. <BR>Are you trying to see too much? In Andalucia, yes. I'd drop Cordoba (as lovely as it is) and spend the extra night in Seville. <BR>Hope this is helpful <BR> <BR> <BR>Dan: We stayed at the Hotel Continental (www.hotelcontinental.com) in Barcelona, for the second time in as many years. We love the place. It has a great location on La Rambla and terrific balconies overlooking the street. Our favorite restaurant in Barcelona is Qu Qu on Passeig Gracia. <BR>In Two visits to Spain (five weeks in all), we've never experienced any petty crime. Take some simple, common-sense precautions (wear a money belt, don't leave luggage unattended, and you'll be fine. <BR>Have fun. <BR> <BR>Maira: We stayed at the Parador in Santiago, and it was fantastic. In fact, all the Paradores we stayed in (in Toledo and Pontevedra) were superb. The one in Santiago is 500 years old, and very grand. It cost around $150 a night, which made it the most expensive hotel of our trip, but it was worth every cent. The rooms are enormous, the furnishings luxurious and the service and foot outstanding. <BR>We travelled mainly by train -- RENFE runs a very good, very reliable network, one of the best in Europe. In Andalucia, we took buses. <BR>Spain is indeed a dream destination. I can't recommend it enough. We've been twice in two years, and already we're planning to return in 2001. <BR>Cheers, <BR>Bobby

Hi Bobby G, <BR> <BR> My girfriend and I are heading to Madrid in a few weeks. We want to see Segovia and Toledo- what's the best way to get there: RENFE? AVE? Are we able to buy tickets for the same day we want to travel? Thanks for any help you can give us!

Bobby (or anyone else), <BR> <BR>We are going to Madrid in March and along with the regular sites (like the museums you mention) we also want to see a bull fight. Did you do this, or do you know a good place to try and get tickets? <BR> <BR>Thanks, <BR> <BR>Dan

My husband and I are planning to go to Barcelona in May. We would like to take at least on side trip from there. Any suggestions?

I would suggest Montserrat for a day trip.

Hi again, folks. <BR> <BR>Ryan: Trains for Toledo and Segovia are plentiful and leave practically every hour. You can be sure of getting seats even if you buys tickets minutes before departure. See RENFE's very comprehensive website:www.renfe.es/ingles/hir/index.html. <BR>Toledo's just an hour away by fast train; Segovia is (if I remember right) three hours away. <BR>You CAN do a day trip to Toledo, but I highly recommend staying a night. As for Segovia, you'll spend 6 hours traveling both ways, so a day trip will probably be too short. <BR> <BR>Dan: I'm not sure, but I suspect March is too early in the year (too cold) for bullfights. The only fight I ever saw was in Seville, in April 1998, and I recall that it was one of the first of the season. Madrid, being a lot colder, probably starts later in the year. <BR>If the season does start in time for you to catch a fight, it's a great experience. Madrid has a very lovely bullring, and tickets sell pretty quickly -- particularly if one of the more famous matadors is on show. I don't think you can book online, but perhaps your travel agent or hotel concierge can help you. <BR>Can someone else on this Forum pitch in here with more detailed advice? <BR> <BR>Anne-Rose: Montserrat would be my choice, too. Take the cable-car if it's in operation -- it's a spectacular ride. If you're a beach-addict, the Costa Brava has more seaside towns than you can shake a stick at. But the beaches will likely be wall-to-wall people, and I'd stay well away. <BR> <BR>Cheers, <BR>Bobby

Hi Ryan Fink: I went to Spain almost exactly 2 years ago and visited friends who are teachers in Segovia. They advised taking the bus from Madrid to Segovia instead of the train because it's much quicker (2/3 of the time and as I recall, it made no stops at all before Segovia). The downside was that the bus station was not as close to the airport as the train station when you arrive Madrid. Sorry I can't recall more details, they met me at the airport and we went to the bus station together so I wasn't focusing on how to do it. But the bus was clean, comfortable and I think was even very cheap (maybe a few dollars). <BR>Segovia is wonderful. You'll be happy you went.

Bobby G: This thread is an example of the very best about Fodors forums -- you are great to give all this information, as are the others that have added to it. Was in Spain last summer -- your advice is good -- to others asking advice: continue the good exchange when YOU get home.

<BR>dear Bobby, do you think three days is enough for barcelona? how's the weather during winter time? <BR> <BR>regards, <BR> <BR>mast

Hi Dan and Anne Rose <BR> <BR>My Mother and I went to Barcelona for a week and had a great time! We stayed at the Rivoli Ramblas, great location, nothing too fancy but very nice for the $. We took 3 day trips, Sitges, Figueras and Girona. All three are definitely worth seeing! Sitges if you are looking for a beach resort type place and the other two for great sight seeing. Girona is amazing! <BR>For authenticity you should definitely eat at Cal Pep and Los Carolcoles, they are both great!!! <BR>As far as petty crime, we got robbed one night on the Ramblas but I think if we had a man with us it would not have happened. Definitely wear your purse inside your coat and always keep your passport in your room, use your license to change $$. <BR> <BR>Definitely see parc Guell, Montserrat, Sagrada Familia! <BR>Have fun!

Has anyone ever been to any of the following cities: Siguenza, La Guardia, Haro, Laredo, Santillana del Mar or Ribadesella? My husband and I are going to Spain in late May and plan to stay in Madrid, do wine country in Rioja and maybe stay one night on that side of the coast. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bobby G, <BR>Your recommendation of the Que Que brought back delicious memories. It was one of our favorite spots in Barcelona. <BR> <BR>Would also recommend the El Mussol in the Old Quarter of Barcelona. Lively eclectic corwd, industrial type decor, and wonderful grilled meats and poultry. A lot of fun and very popular. <BR> <BR>If you are pressed for time and are heading south from Madrid, look into flying. It was a little LESS than the AVE and took about 45 minutes (Madrid-Seville). <BR> <BR>Spain offers so much, you really can't go wrong anywhere.

Kim, <BR>Have visited the towns you have mentioned, and several are really special treats. In the Basque Country the tiny medieval walled village of Laguardia (our home away from home) makes a wonderful base for a 2-3 day visit to the Rioja wine region (the Rioja Alavesa region arguably producing the best wines in the area). Laguardia is a pedestrians only village complete with ramparts and thick gateways with three narrow main streets but also three charming, atmospheric, delightful inns (Miguel de Migueloa, the Antigua Bodega de don Cosme Palacio and the exquisitly decorated, much lauded 8 room gem, the Castillo el Collado-a personal favorite-ask for the "Amor y locura" room in the turret). The Miguel de Migueloa has a friendly and atmospheric wine bar in the cellar and Restaurante Marixa, same owner as the Castillo Collado is highly regarded by the famous Michelin starred Basque chefs for its hearty country Basque cuisine. Fabulous dining here! Each and every house in Laguardia has a two-story deep wine cellar (which in olden times had connecting doors so that rebellions could be plotted among families underground), and most have huge wine vats the size of small swimming pools where they store their home brew and make their "zurracapote", a type of sangria for the week long annual festival of San Juan/San Pedro y Pablo beginning June 24 with "encierros" Pamplona style every morning and afternoon. (Less dangerous as bulls are smaller and horns are covered with wads of paper, but 400 lbs plus in size nonetheless!) The views of the vineyards of the Ebro valley below are lovely, and from Laguardia you can easily take day trips to the many bodegas of Haro or the Remelluri bodegas nearby in Labastida or the Marques de Riscal bodegas in Elciego. Also it's a short drive to 14th century Santo Domingo de Calzada on the Camino de Santiago (with beautiful Parador) and the 11th c. Monasteries of Yuso and Suso at San Millan de la Congolla, plus Bilbao and the new Guggenheim is within striking distance. <BR> <BR>Santillana del Mar, on the Bay of Biscay near Santander is one of the prettiest, picture-perfect (and most visited) medieval villages in all of Spain, certainly worth an overnight at the Parador Gil Blas. Medieval Siguenza,less well-known than Santillana, in Castilla, an hr and a half northeast of Madrid, is also worth a stop (but not necessarily an overnight) for a visit to its Arab fortress Parador, a stroll through the steep hilled streets and a visit to the cathedral for its beautifully carved statue of El Doncel, Queen Isabel's young page. <BR>Back to the Bay of Biscay: I would skip Laredo (a bustling family beach resort like many on the Cantabrian coast) and Ribadesella and spend my time instead midway between the two in Llanes (region of Asturias) staying at the special little Posada de Babel. From there you can take beautiful drives into the Picos de Europa mountain range-Fuente De, the lakes of Covadonga and Cangas de Onis. <BR>Happy travels!

Hi again, folks: <BR> <BR>Lurker: Many thanks for your kind words. Glad to be of service. I've received so much help from other Fodor-ites in the past, it seems natural that I should give something back. <BR> <BR>Mast: Three days in Barcelona is quite good: if you have the luxury, add a fourth day. If you want to take in one of the beach resorts nearby or Montserrat, add a fifth day. <BR> <BR>It gets pretty cold in winter -- in late December, it was already down to single-digits. But never too cold for comfort: I don't know for sure, but I think it never actually snows in Barcelona (Anybody else want to correct me on this?). The days are more often than not bright and clear. I'be been to Barcelona in April and in December, and frankly, my enjoyment of the city was not at all affected by the temperature. <BR>Hope that's of some help. <BR> <BR>Kim: Sorry, I don't know much about any of those places, but I see Mirabel has chipped in with very good advice. In fact, I'm now thinking of going to some of those places the next time I'm in Spain! <BR> <BR>Muchas Gracias to Mirabel, Gail, Ivy and Michele for coming in with such useful information. <BR>Cheers, <BR>Bobby

Mirabel: <BR>Thank you so much -- what great advice. Now I am even more excited!

Bobby, <BR>Thanks for your dining tip (plus great post that got all this started!) <BR>of the Qu Qu on Passeig de Gracia-will definitely try it next time! Any others that you particularly enjoyed in Barcelona? (Glad you really enjoyed the Pintor El Greco as well-have reserved there for June). <BR>Will also try Michele's recommendation of El Mussol. And I second Ivy's choices of Cal Pep and Los Caracoles. For great paella, we enjoy Set Portes. <BR>For Dan G: try www.portaltaurino.com <BR>for up-to-date bullfight info (in Spanish). You can wait and buy your tickets at the bullring (Ventas metro stop) or on the Calle Victoria, between Palace Hotel and Puerta del Sol. Securing tickets on the day of the corrida (or day before)isn't usually a problem unless it's during the Feria de San Isidro in May when buying ahead of time is an absolute must. <BR>Regards, <BR>Maribel <BR>

Hi Maribel, <BR>My wife and I are inveterate tapas-bar crawlers, so we didn't have too many sit-down meals in Barcelona. We visites many bars, but didn't (to our own regret) keep a record of their names. I will always remember Qu Qu because we liked it so much we went back several times. <BR>As a general rule, I'd say most of the tapas places (some have restaurants attached to them) on the Passeig de Gracia between Playa Catalunya and Gaudi's Casa Batlio are pretty good. The places on La Rambla are less certain. One place to avoid: a bar with a huge CERVECEIRA sign in yellow, directly opposite the Continental Hotel close to the mouth of La Rambla (near the famous water fountain). Again, I'm sorry I don't remember the name, but I do recall that the food was awful and overpriced. <BR>Incidentally, there is a terrific restaurant next to Pintor el Greco: I have the name at home, and will try to remember to send it to you tomorrow. <BR>Thanks for the info on the bullfighting website. I'll store that away for our next trip. <BR>Cheers, <BR>Bobby

Hi again, Maribel, <BR>The name of that terrific restaurant near the Hotel Pintor el Greco is "La Orza" and it is on Calle Descalzos 5 (as you exit the hotel, turn left, climb up to the road, cross it and voila!). The salt-covered cod (or was it bass?) is superb. They also do very good tapas and have an excellent house red wine. Enjoy. <BR>Cheers, <BR>Bobby

Hi Bobby, <BR>Thanks so much for the Toledo restaurant tip! (sounds like you had "dorada a la sal" there, sea bass I believe). We'll be sure to try it in June! <BR>Another source for info on bullfights is the on-line version of a bullfighting magazine, www.6toros6.com which has the schedule of corridas all over Spain and will post the complete program of Madrid's Feria de San Isidro from mid-May to end of first week in June. <BR>Regards, <BR>Maribel

Muchas gracias, Mirabel.

Hi Bobby, <BR>We are spending our honeymoon in Spain in late June, early July 2000. We will be flying into Madrid. I am having trouble deciding on the Ritz hotel or the Palace hotel. We will also be spending time on the Costa del Sol. We are not sure if we should stay at the Marbella Club or the Puente Romano hotels. If you have any info. we would appreciate it. Thank you. <BR>

Wow, am I lucky I stumbled across this forum! My husband and I, along with our 16-year-old daughter, are going to Spain for 28 days in June/July, and after reading these messages, I can't wait. We have already booked at the Continental in Barcelona and the Pintor El Greco in Toledo, and I am relieved to hear the good comments. We are flying to Madrid, then renting a car to go to Segovia, Avila, Toledo, Oropesa, Caceres, Merida, Zafra, Cordoba, Granada, Alicante, Benicarlo, Tortosa, Barcelona, Cardona and Zaragoza, before meeting up with a former exchange student in Haro, La Rioja. With him, we are planning to visit Pamplona for 2 nights for the running of the bulls. We are staying in paradors in Avila, Oropesa, Caceres, Zafra, Benicarlo, Tortosa and Cardona. We are going to be in Barcelona for 4 nights. The only hotel we haven't booked is in Granada, where we are interested in the Hotel America at the Alhambra. Is anyone familiar with this hotel? Thanks for any input you may have.

Dear Maureen, <BR>What a fine tour you have awaiting you! I love the simple, quaint, ceramics filled, delightful little America, and the English speaking owner is quite a character. The rooms are quite small but the setting next door to the Alhambra and the almost impossible to book Parador San Francisco make up for the diminutive room size. Stroll over the the Parador for a drink or dinner on the terrace-unforgettable! <BR>We're headed again to the America at the end of June-don't even think about staying anywhere else-it's really special. <BR>Will you be in Haro on June 29 for the Wine Battle? If you are in the area, be sure to stick around to see the thousands of people wearing wine stained white garb, completely soaked in vino tinto returning from their pilgrimage up to the shrine of San Felices at Riscos de Bilibio, all the while dousing each other with wine along the way from their wineskins (or anything else that sprays liquid). Thousands of liters of red wine are sprayed on the participants that day. It's quite a funny sight! In Haro, Beethoven has a fabulous tapas bar, and Casa Terete with its long wooden tables is a great place to try roast lamb and the wonderful Riojas of the region. <BR>While in Granada you might like to take in a ballet or concert during the International Music and Dance festival. The program should be posted now on www.granadafestival.org <BR>Last year we took in an evening ballet held in the rotunda of the Palace of Carlos V at the Alhambra, and it was a magical experience. <BR>Have a great time!

just wanted to say Thanks to Gail W. and Bobby G for all the great info! <BR> <BR>One more question t throw out to all those who are "Spain-experienced".... <BR> <BR>To what extent to restaraunts and shops really close up during siesta time? Would this be a good time to hit museums? What are your ideas? Thanks!

Ryan, <BR> <BR>Siesta time in Spain really needs to be planned for...it runs from approx 1:00 to 4:00 and YES many stores, banks, and some of the churches, museums, etc.. even close. Restaurants (that serve lunch) are open, of course, since that is what those hours are for in Spain. In the large cities the big dept stores (El Corte Ingles) stay open as do the Prado Museum, but you really do need to plan or you could be quite disappointed if the hours of a special museum do not stay open for siesta. <BR> <BR> My advice to all first time visitors to Spain is always acclimate yourself ASAP to the Spanish schedule or you will spend your whole trip being frustrated by the siesta hour and you will be very disappointed in the food if you are looking to eat lunch before 1 or 1:30 and dinner before 8 or 9. The flip side of this schedule is that the Spanish people have developed other wonderful accomodations such as "merienda" which is approx. from 10:00 a.m. to 11:30 everyone has a little coffee or chocolate and a pastry or "bocadillo" sandwich and from approx. 7:00 p.m. to late in the evening you can enjoy a glass of wine and "tapas" appetizers of the most incredible variety and tastiness at virtually every little bar or bodega in Spain...good luck, write me directly or post again if you need more info, Maria

Hi again, folks. <BR>Amy: Both your Madrid hotels are top-of-the-line. I haven't stayed in either, but did have a superb meal at the Ritz. I'd just toss a coin between those two, really! <BR>My wife and I generally avoid beaches (we grew up by one!), so I can't help with your second question. But do try and make at least a day trip to Ronda from the Costa del Sol. It's a beautiful town. <BR> <BR>Maureen: Mirabel's absolutely right about the America. If you can get a room, take it. The location can't be beat. Your trip sounds great: I'm so jealous! <BR> <BR>Ryan: Maria's answered your question. I'll add this: given how much walking you'll do in Spain (it's the best way to take in the sights), you'll come to appreciate the pleasure of the siesta! <BR> <BR>Have fun, everybody. <BR>Cheers, <BR>Bobby