lola

Hi guys--missed you. Spent 3 weeks following the trails of Bach, Luther, Goethe, Rubens, van Eyk, Van Dyke and chums. I've been this way several times before, but wanted to return with my hubby. Will be happy to answer specifics not covered in the other similar recent postings. <BR><BR>Some insights: <BR><BR>Berlin is a sea of cranes-not the bird-watching variety-it changes architecturally every month. Very exciting. Seems to be coming to grips with the past century. Much tv and talk about the Holocaust now, as opposed to earlier visits. Went to Wannasee just 30 minutes away in the suburbs-by a lake, a gorgeous villa where the Nazi's plotted the final solution. The juxtaposition is especially harrowing. Ate at a restaurant on top of the Reichstag. Interesting display in the center of the building. <BR><BR>East Germany is a great destination; esp. Weimar. Its the way Germany was 30 years ago. Real towns, unspoiled. Eisenach has an outstanding castle where Luther wrote his translation of the Bible, and is the birthplace of Bach. Leipsig, Dresden and Erfurt are all worth a visit before the become on the beaten path. <BR><BR>In Amsterdam, the gardens at Keukenhoff were at their max in early May--among the very best in the world without question--altho the tulip fields are over by first days of May. Ate at a South African restaurant called Pygma-Lion and had zebra salad! (Not striped, and yes, tasted like you-know-what). Can't rave about the 4-star Park Hotel, altho the location is near the great art show this year at the Riksmuseum. Delft is the most charming town in Holland--I think-- and worth an overnight. <BR><BR>Maastrict, near the German border, is an undiscovered gem, with many chateaus. We stayed at one called Gerlach--top of the line. Ate at a nearby Chateau Neerlach, incredible setting, and a Michelin star. You can go ballooning in the area. <BR><BR>As for Belgium, Brugge is a gem, but not, alas undiscovered. The crowds were awful. When I was there 15 years ago it was heavenly. Today, you have to get up at 7 am to and walk along the canals to get the real feel. Go early spring or late fall to get the most out if this charmer. Antwerp and Ghent are both larger cities, but with much of the same charms, so are becoming trendy spots for hip Europeans-tho underrated by Americans. Recommend walking tours in the old city in both places and overnights if possible-tho Ghent is only 30 minutes by train from Brugge, so makes a nice day trip to get away from Brugges crowds. Stayed at superb de Witte Lille, a small, chic hotel in the historic center of Antwerp, and the Old Amsterdam Huis--charming and quiet, in Brugges. As for Brussels it gets lots of knocks on the forum as being dull, but the museums are great and the Horta house, an easy tram ride from the Grand Place, is the home of the master of art nouveau, and is as exciting as Frank Lloyd Wright's "Falling Water." Worth a detour of you love nouveau. <BR><BR>Any questions? Glad to be back!

Brian in Atlanta

Lola, re: Belgium, did you rent a car or rely on trains? If trains, did you buy point-to-point tickets or a pass? <BR> <BR>There have been a few (though a very few) reports on this board that Belgians can be cold and unfriendly. Did you find this to be the case? <BR> <BR>Did you use English in Flanders? Any problems? <BR> <BR>Thanks so much.

kk

Lola, good to hear a report from Germany that took in parts of the east. I enjoyed my visit to Berlin and Dresden, too, when I was there in the fall of 1998. The Reichstag repairs weren't finished then, so I would be interested to hear more about what you called "the interesting display in the center of the building." Thanks.

lola

Brian- used both car and train. Had a Eurail 15-trip pass and had no trouble at all getting around at last minute in comfortable conditions. Did have a car for a couple of days, and altho it was fun, it was lots of trouble. Drove from Amsterdam to the Kroller- Mueller museum (hope I got that right, but your hotel in Amsterdam will know). Had to drive there; it's in a national park and has dozens of Van Goghs, Mondrians, and hundreds of great works, plus dozens of sculptures set among gardens from the world's great sculptors. Would be best right now as the rhododenren gardens are supurb. This is a real gem, on a par with great suburban museums like Louisiane outside Copenhagen. Must see for art-lovers. Then drove through the countryside to Delft and on to Maastrich. Got lost trying to find the chateau at night and finally a concerned trucker saw us heading near a lake and was afraid we would keep going into it in the dark and put on his sirens. Gave him a scare. We drove to the American cemetary near there, with 8 thousand graves and a moving memorial. <BR><BR>No problems with English in Flanders, as most young people speak some. But alas, we did find about a half-dozen incidents of coldness or impatience in Belgium. The Dutch and yes, the Germans, seemed more approachable. <BR><BR>KK- The entire center of the Reichstag is now a glassed-in spiral, something like the Guggenheim museum in New York. You walk down and see the entire cityscape outside, and can read about German history and see exhibits as you go, There is a restaurant at the top, which is extremely popular, but the food was only so-so. Good news is that the dollar is up!

Jim

Welcome back Lola. Any comments on Berlin prices, food, entertainments?