Just back from 8 days in Paris!
 

Just got back yesterday. Stayed at the Hotel des Grandes Ecoles. Wonderful, beautiful hotel and quite affordable. Paid 600FF a night for 7 nights. Went to the Veuve Cliquot champagne caves in Reims one day. Ate at Jules Verne for lunch another day- food I had was FABULOUS but the woman next to me (who was not with me) didn't know she ordered fish and complained the whole time. Had a charming waiter who asked me and my husband whether we found the French to be snooty because that's just the French way to have a dour face and say Oh, it's raining, Oh it's sunny. He was very funny and we put him at ease that we were meeting a lot of nice French people. <BR> <BR>Weather was dreary at first but became excellent towards the middle to end and people were out having night picnics on the Champ de Mars at the base of the Eiffel Tower while it sparkled. Fantastique. <BR> <BR>Let me know if you want to know anything.

ttt

Hi. <BR>I'm glad you had a good trip. Did you go into museums, & if so, did you have a museum pass? <BR> <BR>We are also going to be having lunch at Jules Verne, so I was glad to hear your report about it. <BR> <BR>What was the thing that surprised you the most? Other than the people (who sound like they were very cordial), what was the most charming thing? <BR> <BR>Sounds like you were able to spend some time outdoors. Did it rain much? Did you take any boat rides down the Seine? <BR> <BR>Thanks for sharing about your trip, <BR>BC

I'm glad you enjoyed your trip and, in particular, the Hotel des Grandes Ecoles. I'm thinking of taking a group of older folks to Paris next year and right now, the GE is my first choice of hotels in Paris. Do you think the rooms are nice enough and large enough to please older Americans who may not have travelled much in Europe? Anything about its situation or amenities that might disappoint or prove difficult? Any problems in reserving? If you don't mind saying, how much was your lunch at the Jules Verne? Did you have to reserve there? Thanks in advance for the info and thanks for helping to counteract the "ugly American" stereotype.

We went to the Louvre (on a Sunday so it was half price) which is just so big and crowded that we just saw the stuff we just HAD to see this trip like the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo,Napolean's Apartments, and a few other things. We also went to the Rodin Museum, which was also lovely. We didn't buy the museum pass but I recommend that you do if you're going to go to more than one museum. <BR> <BR>Also, on Friday nights the bridge right outside of the Louvre next to Pont Neuf seems to be the hangout because when we walked across there were several people hanging with their friends and having food on the bridge and enjoying music. It was fun. <BR> <BR>We traveled to the Denise Acabo/A L'Etoile d'Or chocolate shop (in the 9th), bought olive oil and truffle oil at L'Huilerie Artisanal J. Leblanc et Fils (oil boutique in the 6th) for some cooking friends at home, watched the rollerbladers on Sunday afternoon, and took the scenic boat, the Bateaux Parisian (there are different boats you can take depending on the location they are caled different things).

Betty, The only negative thing I have ever heard about GE is maybe the walk from the metro (uphill). Be sure to check this out before you book for older people.

When my girlfriend & I went to France two years ago, in September, we stayed at a hotel in the 6th, only a couple blocks from the Seine. Our first night there was Friday night; we walked out to the Pont des Arts (that pedestrian bridge you mentioned) and, like you, saw a LOT of people hanging out, playing music, embracing & kissing, and having late-evening picnics all over the bridge. A very festive and romantic atmosphere, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. That bridge, along with the Medici Fountain, is one of my favorite spots in Paris. <BR>

The special Gourmet and Bon Appetit Paris issues were very helpful. <BR> <BR>Betty: Lunch at Jules Verne came to about 2000FF, that was with a bottle of water and wine. We went last Friday and had reserved about two months ahead. <BR> <BR>We reserved Hotel des Grandes Ecoles about 3 or 4 months ago. It's a very nice hotel. I was quite impressed because I heard so many things about Parisian hotels being so small. I had gone to a large chain hotel last time I went to Paris, Le Meridien Montparnasse, and we wanted to stay in a boutique hotel this time around and we weren't disappointed at all. The room was a nice size and the shower was adequate as well. There is an elevator in the building we stayed so we didn't have to lug our baggage up a bunch of steps. There are no TVs or radios so we had to hope that we woke up in time for the start of our day, but that wasn't such a big deal. You can always bring your own travel alarm clock. The clientele is very international and the staff speaks English (well, the owner doesn't speak much English but you'll get by and she's so charming). If it's busy they won't really have the time to make restaurant reservations for you so you should brush up on how to call and ask for one yourself. <BR> <BR>As for the weather, Book Chick, the first day or two was absolutely freezing. It was more like March weather than June weather (for us anyway). It then warmed up around the fourth day we were there to about 75 degrees and we tied our jackets around our waists. There were lots of people wearing jeans and sneakers, French and tourists. It looked like only tourists were wearing shorts so I'm glad I convinced my husband to leave that home :) <BR> <BR>Oh, we also went to listen to jazz at Le Bilboquet, and I was approached to sell my Louis Vuitton wallet by a man in the subway (I don't know if you've heard about this but I read that many people are being limited to what they can buy because they've been taking them back home and selling them on the streets and LV feels that is discrediting their name). The man just saw I had an LV bag and asked to buy whatever was in the bag for double the price without even looking to see what I had. <BR> <BR>If I think of anything else I'll write, and please let me know if there's any other questions. It really is a place to maneuver though and we had a great time (except for at Le Regalade- that's another story).

Traveler- that's actually a great tip, I should have thought of that. That hill can be a killer, especially for older people. Betty, that's something you'll have to really consider for your guests.

(sorry- meant to say it's an easy place to maneuver, not it's a place to maneuver. typing too fast.)

tcc, <BR>Thanks so much again. It's great to share the info, especially when you first get back, everything is so fresh in your mind. Glad you got to have some good weather! <BR> <BR>BC

Thanks, tcc and traveler, for the warning about the hill up to the Grandes Ecoles. I was actually a bit wary about that since the website says that it is on on near the Mont Sainte Genevieve. Is there no way to avoid that? A different metro stop or a bus stop that's closer? I hate to give up such a great-sounding place just because of that problem. Just how steep and how long is that walk?

We recently returned from 8 nights in Paris too. Get a museum pass if you are going during a busy tourist season - we zoomed to the head of lines like the 3 block line at the Orsay - it saved us lots of time and saved our feet for better things like walk the city. It is a deal too if you plan to see even just the major sights it applies to. Our hotel gave us 2 free 3-day passes with our 7+ night stay. I looked at the Grandes Ecoles but they were booked way ahead. Ultimately we chose the Hotel de FLeurie which is a bit more expensive but WONDERFUL. 34 rooms, charming, friendly, modern baths with high pressure showers and halogen lights, comfy beds, the softest towels, AC, cable TV, lots of special toucehes in the hotel and very comfortable rooms - all this in a FANTASTIC location. It is on Gregoire de Tours in the 6th about 80 ft off Blvd St. Germain, a half block from Odeon metro and a block to Mabillon metro (no hills). <BR>Absolutely loved our lunch at the TOur d'Argent - so lovely and the view. Prix fixe is 390f for a 3-course lunch complete with their house specialties. We also enjoyed a romantic dinner on the terrace at Beauvilliers in Montmartre but as great as the meal was the waiters were so rude and condescending. Total snobs - which also makes me chuckle. Why do waiters feel they are superior to paying customers. The waiters at Tour were friendly and ours did not have a trace of snobbishness about them.