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Post is too long, post half to this topic and then reply again too this topic. The next post I make will just be to show a response and hopefully you'll check it out) <BR>

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Just too show a reply! <BR>

Barbara

Thanks for the help. I'll try again. Here's the first part: <BR> <BR>Thanks to all the Fodorites who helped plan my trip. <BR> <BR>2 nights at Stresa on Lake Maggiore in the Hotel Villa Aminta (thanks, Bob the Navigator, for your recommendation. It was absolutely perfect, and the nicest hotel of the trip). From the top of Monterrone (don't think I spelled that correctly) we could see an expanse of snow-topped Alps. The 3 Borrolomean (don't think I spelled that correctly either) islands were beautiful, although we could have skipped the Fisherman's island -- full of tacky souvenir stalls. From Stresa we drove south, stopping in Portofino for lunch (one of only two expensive meals in Italy). 2 nights in Portovenere from which we took the boat at the dock to the Cinque Terre. The boat from provided perfect access to Manarola (short trail between Riomaggiore and Manarola is closed)and we hiked to Corniglia and then to Vernazza. A constant wonder is that a not insignificant number of women hike these trails in strappy high-heeled sandels. It was touch and go for me at times in my hiking boots. And we wondered at the sanity of those who <BR> climbed the steps to Corniglia with baby strollers. We opted out of the last hike, as it was already exhausting -- very hot and very difficult (although the locals characterized it instead as "rewarding"), and rather took the boat from Vernazza to Montorosso for local wine and bruschetta, and then back to Portovenere by boat again. From Portovenere, we drove to Elba for 3 nights, stopping off on the way at Pisa. The beaches on Elba were really nice, some sandy, some very rocky. Hotel Villa Ottone was ocean front but out of the main port town, so it was quiet and beautiful. A number of the beaches on the south shore are sandy, and if you rent lounges and umbrellas, you also get to use their private covered parking lots -- worth the price of the rental itself! The beaches are absolutely devoid of trash and debris. There are no coolers or remnants of food anywhere and neither are their pesky seagulls looming; Similarly, there were no boomboxes.

Barbara

Here's the second part: <BR>After leaving Elba, we drove further into Tuscany, where we <BR>stayed in a villa at La Foce, near the southern hilltowns of Montepulciano, Montelcino and Pienza. The topography and scenery were awesome -- rolling brown hills as far as the eye can see. The wine in Montepulciano and Montelcino is wonderful (and cheap, as was the wine everywhere else) and the Pecorino cheese and Pici (a local pasta) were the highlights of our meals. The merende sott'olio (may have spelled it wrong, but literally, "oily snacks") at Bacchus in Montalcino was the best lunch of the trip. Fiorella something was a terrific restaurant in Pienza. The monestary at MondoX, in Cetona, where recovering addicts become gourmet chefs and artisans, serves an over-the-top 9 course prix fix meal, which was expensive but would easily have been more than double the price in a big U.S. city. La Porta restaurant in Montechiello also was fabulous. Visited many other great restaurants, too numerous to mention (our touring was scheduled around mealtime stops). We ended our trip by train to Rome, where we st <BR>ayed at the Due Torri (thanks to recommendations on this site) and it was charming and very well situated, near the Pantheon and Piazza Navona and within an easy walk of the Forum, which was outstanding, Colosseum, and other sites. <BR>

Barbara

And finally: <BR> <BR>Miscellaneous observances: (1) Italian children don't appear to whine, and actually seem to listen to their parents; (2) Italian teenagers appear to enjoy the company of their parents; (3) you can wear whatever you want to wear in Italy -- shorts, sneakers, and anything else -- and not feel out of place in the least bit. Women need only pack a scarf to drape over their shoulders as needed -- not a sweater, which is way too hot in the summer; (4) Americans do not seem to have discovered Stresa or Elba, or to a great extent, the Cinque Terre. However whatever day you choose to go to Florence, you are sure to bump into one of your neighbors at the Duomo, even if you did not know they too were going to Italy; (5) even though testosterone may try to convince your husband that he can drive from the Tuscan Hills to Florence for the day, because the Autostrada is a straight shot to the parking lot at the train station, he should listen to his wife when she tells him NOT to drive. The drive TO Florence is a breez <BR>e. But, it is impossible to find the Stazione once inside the city, and then impossible to find one's way out when you are done, and that experience will overshadow whatever beauty Florence may hold! (6) It would be foolhardy to attempt to take the kind of trip we took unless one of you has an uncanny sense of direction, because there are no street signs in Tuscany. The locals tell you to just follow the road "and you can't miss it", ignoring the fact that all the roads, all the villages, all the houses look exactly alike; (7) Even though staying in a luxurious villa on a farm is a very neat idea, and the scenery may be incomparable and the atmosphere calming, stone houses without air conditioning (all of them) are like ovens at night, and with the windows open, it is impossible to sleep in the heat with the dogs barking, cats fighting and roosters and other birds crowing, (8) get gas at a station in the morning, even if you don't need it at the time, because it is a given that you will need it between 12 <BR>:30 and 3:30pm, when every single gas station in Tuscany is closed, and you can't figure out how to use the self service pumps. Same as to any required stops at a market. Few if any shops are open during those hours in remote areas. (9) Finally (only because I am running out of steam), planning a trip to Italy that is not centered around Venice, Florence and Rome is a wonderful way to experience the country. I do not regret one aspect of our two weeks, and really enjoyed the absence of American tourists in most of the places. However, I was so taken by the beauty of Rome (where we only stopped overnight before our flight home) that I know I must return.

just curious

Just wondering. You said you drove to Elba. Isn't it an island?

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Great report Barbara. I am delighted that you experienced some of my favorite venues. Italy is so much more than just the big art cites. Welcome back !

robin

Barbara: <BR> <BR>Excellent trip report. Particularly interested in your Elba visit. I'd done prelim investigation on Elba, but opted not to go there when I was in Italy a few months ago (could only devote 3 days in Tuscany). <BR> <BR>To: 'just curious'. Yes, Elba is an island. Assume that Barbara drove down to Piombino (?) and took car onto ferry that takes you across to Elba. Correct?

Diane

Terrific report. I cracked up at your "driving to the train station in Florence" story. Been through similar adventure ourselves and it was an experience we've happily tucked into that older and wiser folder.

Barbara

Thanks, Robin, for translating my message for "Just Curious". We did, in fact, drive to Piombino (where, curiously, there is a McDonalds), and took the Moby Lines ferry to Elba. <BR>The ferry was an experience. No signs anywhere telling you which ferry line is which or where each is going. You have to weave your way through the crowd, hoping you are in the right line. Disembarking also is quite a scene. They make no special arrangements for passengers (as opposed to cars) to get off -- its every man for himself, breathing exhaust fumes, and trying to figure out how you are going to jump into your car as the driver is forced to speed off the ramp. Aside from that harrowing experience, Elba was terrific. There was a beach at Villa Ottone that was nice, but we wandered around the island and settled on a few beautiful sandy south shore beaches. One in particular, whose name escapes me for the moment, was "run" by someone we called Tony, a short, burly, tanned man who kept a close eye on what was going on at his beach; and he even ensured that his beach stayed sandy by throwing the large rocks that appeared at low tide back into the water! The beaches were impeccable and the little restaurants that dot the street above were cheap and wonderful. There also were terrific restaurants in other "towns" on the island. And no Americans. It was great.

LaTeah

Good observations. And sounds like a fun trip to Italy exploring other areas besides 'big 3'.

cindy

We're also planning to stay in a villa somewhere in Tuscany (plans are still somewhat vague). You mentioned NOT to drive into Florence--we were planning to do that one or two days and leave the car somewhere outside the city. Is that possible? I don't want to drive in the city itself, but would prefer not to have to take a bus.

Barbara

The car ride into and out of Florence darned-near ruined our day. I would vote next time to take the train, which I am sure is quite accessible from a number of locations in Tuscany.

Denise

Dear Barbara, <BR>Love your posts, especially your observations! <BR>How long was the drive from the Lakes to CT? Do you recommend a car or is it possible to do by train? I am also planning 2 weeks. How many nights in each place did you stay? <BR> <BR>Thanks in advance, <BR>Denise

Barbara

Two nights in Stresa, Two nights in Portovenere. We did drive from Stresa to Portovenere, and we didn't look into train transportation, so I don't know if the trains are convenient. We left Stresa around 10 am, stopped for a long lunch at Portofino, which was very beautiful, and walked around the environs, up to a castle, and then went on our way to Portovenere, arriving around 5 or 6-ish. The trip took the entire day, but we spent a long time in Portofino. The drive itself was pretty long, but mostly highway driving until we reached the general Cinque Terre area (if I recall, it was La Spezie, but maybe I'm wrong) where we left the highway and then it was little roads, but it was a fine way to do it, I thought. Stopping at Portofino really broke up the trip and we felt like we experienced another area in our trip even though we were just there a few hours. I thought having a car was wonderful because we had a lot of freedom, but I would not have done it that way but for my husband who is intrepid and has an uncanny sense of direction.